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Sukhumvit (Red Wall)

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 47

Seasonality

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Summary

A crag filled with classics!!!

A must visit crag, filled with one of each grade and fun climbing.

Description

New crag so please wear a helmet as loose rocks are around. Mostly on the sides but please be careful on the whole crag.

Access issues inherited from Khao Jeen Lae

Khao Jeen Lae's Temple Area is accessed via Wat Pa Suwannahong temple and is a sacred place of worship. To get to the cliff you actually have to walk through the temple and up to the main face.

The monks have been extremely nice to us climbers. The only request they have made is that climbers going to the cliff come by and say hello, and again when they leave so they know that you are safe. Please make a small donation (20 baht - 100 baht) in the donation box available on the steps if you can, this will help us maintain a good relationship with the monks.

As of March 2023, there is a 20 climber limit per day in order to preserve a peaceful relationship with the temple and the surrounding community. Please register here before your trip

Please make sure you have left the crag before 6pm as the temple doesn't want people coming down in the dark. This is very important for keeping good relationship with the temple and the crag open.

PARKING INFORMATION

If there is space please park in the driveway of 1st Pitch Thailand (available on google to find) across the street from the temple. Please do not park along the barbed wire fence. Tractors need to pass there during the day. You can access the toilet at the back of the house also. You can leave a donation for facilities via QR code on the middle door of the house. Thankyou

Approach

Access from temple if you follow the pink ribbon from star wall. Or access from secret garden. Walk to the end of secret garden and up the steep hill. Take a right at the end of the hill and you'll arrive at the left side of the crag

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 6a
2 5c
3 6b
4 5a

An awesome 4 pitch route, can make it 5 pitches if you start on 'Prik' or 'Prik Thai' and travers left from the anchor 1 bolt and then reach the start of the multi pitch anchor.

  1. (6a) 35m. A bit of a dirty start leads up to otherwise very good rock on less-than-vertical terrain. The climbing, while easy, is varied and interesting. The rock quality is very high in the middle to upper section and can take both nuts and cam well. This pitch very well can be used to teach gear placement for new trad leaders.

  2. (5c) 15m. A short pitch but still interesting. Low-angle climbing on good rock (still take gear in medium size well) into a cruxy bulge right before reaching the belay at a huge cave. P1 and P2 definitely can be combined with good gear management.

  3. (6b) 20m. The crux pitch with a dicey opening move after the first bolt on Tufa into a good stance. Don't blow it. The rest of the pitch is slightly overhanging jug hauling on good flakes. Pure fun. 2 belays on a small ledge or medium ledge are available so take your pick.

  4. (5a) 15m. Sharp and not-so-fun climbing (just like the rest of last pitch of MP on khao chin lae) to reach the summit.

Descent - Rappel the route.

Rap 1 - 35m rappel from the summit will take you down to the start of P3. Make sure to knot the end and back clip so you can back to the belay

Rap 2 - 15m rappel from the cave to the start of P2

Rap 3 - 35m rappel with rope stretch gets you back to the ground

Set: Matt Chatfield, 10 Dec

FA: Matt Chatfield, 12 Dec

Shares an anchor with Prik

Set: Matt Chatfield, Dec 2023

FA: Matt Chatfield, 12 Dec

Set: Mimi Chindasook, 9 Dec

FA: Mimi Chindasook, 12 Dec

Tribute to David & Xavi. Two crazy Spanish people who came to Lopburi, climbed all the routes in 10 days and made the whole village smile.

Beware of loose rock. Belayer please wear a helmet.

Set: Mimi Chindasook, Dec 2023

FA: Mimi Chindasook, 12 Dec

It stands for " Steve Daltrey & Marcella ". Get your mind out of the gutter!

Named after these two legends. Thanks for helping us with the crag updates and everything 🫶

Beware of loose rock. Belayer please wear a helmet.

FA: Matt Chatfield, Dec 2023

Set: Matt Chatfield, Dec 2023

Easy start until gaining overhanging arete. Make a couple of powerful bouldery moves to get a good rest then charge up another small roof through the Hueco

Set: Gee & Tao, Jan 2023

FA: Tony Panjawan, Jan 2024

First route at Sukhumvit Wall which was climbed ground up on trad then rap-bolted later.

Only recommend if you're very well solid at the grade. Stick-clipping the 2nd bolt is recommended if you're pushing this grade and don't want to risk hitting the deck.

Rock quality can be suspected in certain spots

Set: Gee & Gee Srisuwan, 2023

FA: Gee Srisuwan, 2023

Starts left of the big tree.

Moderate climbing until the angle kicks back where what seems like a very hard boulder problem crux over a bulge. The bulge then continues into possibly another crux which is an overhang finger crack.

The climb then appears to ease out toward the last 15 feet.

Has not been free-climbed (FA) as of Jan 2024. Suggested grade is purely speculated

Set: Fame & Gee Srisuwan, Jan 2023

Mega classic route. A wide variety of styles all in one

FA: Gee Srisuwan, Jan 2024

Set: Gee Srisuwan, Jan 2024

Same start with Cowboyrider !! move right after fourth bolt

Set: Gee Srisuwan, Jan 2024

FA: Gee Srisuwan, Jan 2024

Easy climbing to a dynamic Crux. Jump for glory to a jug. Use the small intermediates if you are short.

In memory of bolters dogs Crisp and Tofu!!

P.S. Tofu's ashes are stored under the climb please go say hi to my dog when you visit (so he doesn't get lonely).

FA: Mimi Chindasook, Nov 2023

Set: Mimi Chindasook & Matt Chatfield, Nov 2023

FFA: Matt Chatfield, Dec 2023

Fun boulder start and a crux right before the ledge.

Crux sandwich

6B/6C until the last 2 bolts then it goes insane.

Set: Stephen Le & Matt Chatfield, Dec 2023

FA: Vee Verapat, Feb 2024

Last route on the right. Climb up towards a fun stemming section.

Belayer wear helmet as there is rock fall potential!

Extend or alpine draw on the bolt that is on the overhang

FA: North & Tung, Jan 2024

Set: North & Tung, Jan 2024

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