Ruthin Escarpment (Pwllglas Rocks) Rock climbing 5 routes in crag

Originally interest in the Crag was shown by R.J Cooper, S.A.Garner, E.J. Pritchard, D.J. Kear, C.J. Butterfield and Messrs. Hewer and Thomson. The pupils of Ruthin School under the guidance of Keith Thomson a teacher at the school in the late 1970's. There was a small paperback guidebook printed by the school with about 30 climbs. The development of the Crag really started in the early 1980's with a Rhodesian climber Rory Williams who moved to Ruthin. Most of the top sections of cliff were done the full length and numerous obvious lines on the lower section. Some of the harder routes climbed on the lower section were hard to protect and on one of the routes a ground fall was taken from 30ft when the only friend pulled out when a hold broke. The climb was completed without the friend. Unfortunately the notes of many of the ascents was lost so they were never recorded. The recorded routes are all from memory and are not the full list. The crag has since become popular. Like many of these small local crags if the route is obvious it's probably been climbed before much like Pothole Quarry. Originally there were no bolts except 1 due to the severity of a potential fall. All the climbs were done ground up on site up to British 6c. No top roping in those days. Since then all these routes have been bolted and regraded as sport climbs. Originally they were trad and onsighted. Some have also been upgraded since the original gradings.

A point of note. This crag was a daily training ground for over 10 years. Which means if the route was less than 20 feet its been climbed for training. In those days bouldering was not a sport it was a means to an end. Fitness. The limits were being pushed and often 20 boulder problems along the whole length of the Crag were being done every day. I've seen numerous claims to boulder problems which I'm afraid were climbed by someone in the 1960s 1970's or 1980's.