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description

Climb over the overhanging base to gain good holds in the middle of the wall and gain the break. Move left to the middle of the buttress. Climb the smooth bulge to a sloping break. Originally a small 1 inch thick plant was used with a sling. Just for confidence. Move up to the next break and clip the bolt in the wall. More sustained moves to reach the top. Best route on the upper section of crag.

Route history

20 Jul 1985First ascent: & Mike Brennan

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 53.14613, -3.24569

Grade citation

6a Assigned grade

ethic

Originally only 1 bolt was ever placed for safety on a British 6c. All the routes were climbed ground up, no preinspection, no top roping. Only one fall on a first accent was ever taken and that resulted in a ground fall from 20 feet due to a loose hold. The route was completed without the original runner placement. It's sad to see routes originally done in a pure style now bolted and graded as sports climbs.

inherited from Ruthin Escarpment (Pwllglas Rocks)

Seasonality

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M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Based on -1 ratings.

Tick Types

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Terry Taylor

Date: 2024

ISBN: 9781805175414

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering in South Snowdonia around Blaenau-Ffestiniog, Bala, Harlech, Dolgellau, and Aberystwyth, covering more than 2,500 boulder problems.

Author(s): Mark Reeves & Mark Glaister

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9781873341933

A selective guidebook by Rockfax deswcribing the best rock climbing found in North Wales, covering Llanberis Pass, Cloggy, Ogwen, the Carneddau, Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno.

Author(s): S. Broadbent

Date: 2022

Volume 1 of this climbing guide contains more than 4700 routes on 89 crags in northern England and Wales / primarily 5 to 7b on the French scale.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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