Climb over the overhanging base to gain good holds in the middle of the wall and gain the break. Move left to the middle of the buttress. Climb the smooth bulge to a sloping break. Originally a small 1 inch thick plant was used with a sling. Just for confidence. Move up to the next break and clip the bolt in the wall. More sustained moves to reach the top. Best route on the upper section of crag.
20 Jul 1985 | First ascent: & Mike Brennan |
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6a | Assigned grade |
Originally only 1 bolt was ever placed for safety on a British 6c. All the routes were climbed ground up, no preinspection, no top roping. Only one fall on a first accent was ever taken and that resulted in a ground fall from 20 feet due to a loose hold. The route was completed without the original runner placement. It's sad to see routes originally done in a pure style now bolted and graded as sports climbs.
Author(s): Terry Taylor
Date: 2024
ISBN: 9781805175414
A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering in South Snowdonia around Blaenau-Ffestiniog, Bala, Harlech, Dolgellau, and Aberystwyth, covering more than 2,500 boulder problems.
Author(s): Mark Reeves & Mark Glaister
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9781873341933
A selective guidebook by Rockfax deswcribing the best rock climbing found in North Wales, covering Llanberis Pass, Cloggy, Ogwen, the Carneddau, Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno.
Author(s): S. Broadbent
Date: 2022
Volume 1 of this climbing guide contains more than 4700 routes on 89 crags in northern England and Wales / primarily 5 to 7b on the French scale.
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