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North East Outcrops & Angus Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

alonsoATCO Al Bear Michael Lehmann David Gibbs Pablo Barrios Ponce Peter Nellist Euan Moir Campbell Gome Phil Price

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. North East Outcrops & Angus 804 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.191373, -2.417172

summary

All of the East coast of Scotland goodness.

description

From north of Angus to Peterhead and the north coast towards Inverness.

1.1. Moray Firth Coast 279 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.683570, -2.785302

1.1.1. Cummingston Cliffs 141 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703949, -3.460951

description

North facing sea cliff on good sandstone. Toilets available at the car park. Very short walk in (less than 2 mins).

approach

Park at the Cummingston playground, off the road to the left if travelling from Burghead towards Hopeman. Walk (or take the children's slide) down to the paved path, and proceed either straight down to the beach then left, or left along the path for approximately 100 metres until the embankment on your right opens out and you are able to descend to the base of the cliffs. NB - the whole area is tidal.

descent notes

Stakes at the top of popular climbs to ab off of. Rigging protection to belay up a second can be challenging.

1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.704097, -3.457360

description

Eastern section of the cliff, directly below the car park. To the immediate left as you walk onto the beach area.

approach

From the car park, descend the slide (or walk down next to it) then proceed across the path (tarmac, runs from left to right as you stand at the bottom of the slide) and down towards the beach area. Orange Wall is on your left, with a large old metal pipe running vertically down it.

descent notes

Descend by the obvious walking path.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Orange Peel

Right of the arete. Climb straight up, without using features on the arete. Last hold's a big reach.

E1 5b Trad 7m
2 Route One

Start slightly right of Orange Peel. Follow the rightward trending flakes.

VS 4c Trad 7m
3 Ginger Snap

Up the finger crack to the right of Route One, finishing by traveling left to Route One's finish.

HVS 4c Trad 7m
4 Drainpipe Wall

A smooth section of the wall to the right of Ginger Snap, almost directly underneath a small shelf situated just below the top of the cliff (where the climb ends).

E2 6b Trad 7m
5 Thumper

Another thin crack line, about ten paces right of Ginger Snap.

E3 6a Trad 8m
6 Tangerine Scream

The overhung section of wall to the right of Thumper. Sparse holds and minimal protection.

E5 6a Trad 8m
7 Hickory Dickory Dock

The next crack line along to the right. To the left of the next set of decent holds.

E4 6a Trad
8 Flakey Wall

The clear line of flakes bearing to the right.

E1 5a Trad 8m
9 Route Two

Right of Flakey Wall. Start at the bottom left of the overhang, and progress gradually to the right to finish as Skelp.

E2 5b Trad 8m
10 Skelp

The direct line straight up the overhanging face to the wall above. Finishes at the same place as Route Two

E2 5c Trad 8m
11 King Swing

The undercut crack line to the right of Skelp. Once you reach the bulge look to the right to make progress, then continue up the crack to the top.

E2 5c Trad 8m
12 Beserker

Often sandy - bring a soft brush. Start as per King Swing, then traverse right along the bulge until you reach a vertical seam. Work your way up this, until you achieve the chimney to the finish.

E4 6b Trad 10m
13 Power Struggle

Route will need cleaning prior to ascent - it seems to collect filth at an accelerate pace through some kind of dark magic. Right of the cave there is an overhanging wall with a slab at it's base. Climb up it.

E5 6a Trad 10m
14 Solo Wall

The arete above the beach approximately 15 paces right of Power Struggle.

VD Trad 10m
15 Black Roof

The roofed in corner to the immediate right of Solo Wall's dumpy arete. Aim for an incut niche in the corner where the wall transitions into the roof, then move left out onto the slabby wall to proceed to the finish.

VS 5a Trad 10m
1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703879, -3.458263

description

UPDATE 6/7/2017 - the descent path has disappeared in gorse thickets, and the top out of Middle Muddle Direct is now a slope of gorse bushes, making for an excruciating top out. Just to the west (right as you look at Orange Wall), there is a tidal bay linked to Orange Wall by a cave. The climbing to the right and left of the cave is average to outright naff (past Sea Witch to the right, there are a number of climbs not listed here. The rock is substandard and very brittle). The back of the Cave is very entertaining!

approach

Through a large cave situated at the western end of Orange Wall Area.

descent notes

Via the obvious cliff top path through gorse. Wear trousers. UPDATE 6/7/2017 - the cliff top path has been fully overgrown by gorse and brambles, and the anchors are in need of replacement to facilitate safe belaying and rappelling.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beastie's Wall

At the left side of the left wall as you look at it is a line of hollow flakes. Climb up them to the top, veering left to avoid a grassy section by taking a vertical crack.

HS 4a Trad 10m
2 The Beast

Follow the thin crack next to a flake, straight up through the roof to the finish. Very brittle rock.

E2 5b Trad 10m
3 Middle Muddle Groove

Climb the easy flakes, traversing right to a depression in the rock. Once reached, progress up the obvious groove to the top.

D Trad 10m
4 Middle Muddle Direct

Start a few paces right of the flakes of MM Groove, at a crack that runs through the bulge above onto a ledge. Follow the obvious crack to the top.

VS 5a Trad 10m
5 Jugular Wall

The steep wall to the right of MM Direct. About half way up there's a large jug to look forward to, before working through the last few ledges and up the final section of steep wall.

HS 4b Trad 10m
6 Mud, Sweat and Tears

Straight up the chimney at the back to a finish past a roof.

HS Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Hernia Corner

The bulging crack and corner on the left hand side of the back wall. Word on the street is the tricky start is often aided, dropping the grade to 5a.

E2 6a Trad 15m
8 Anal Stretch

The route starts a couple of feet to the right of Hernia Corner. Tough reachy moves throughout the wall and roof make for an exciting climb. Take pro of an equivalent size to a WC hex 5 and a Rock 5 for the roof section, which finishes with a long reach right to a spike. Finish up the arete bearing right.

E6 6b Trad 15m
9 Legbuster

Runout in the upper section - ground-fall potential. To the right of a buttress is a pair of cracks. Climb the left one until reaching the bay, whereupon you trend leftwards up a thin and fingery wall to the finish.

E2 5c Trad 20m
10 Gutbuster

Pumpy moves up the right-hand crack of the pair to the bay. Trend out rightwards to a mantle-shelf finish. Gobbles up cams like sweets in the lower sections.

E2 5c Trad 20m
11 Kneewrecker Chimney

The chimney to the right of the pair of vertical cracks that make up the previous two routes. Watch out for the tight chockstone (crux) on your way up.

VS 4c Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Sea Witch

Often needs a good clean prior to climbing. Left of an overhanging crack on the right-hand side of the cave, up a 'flake-nose' and through the brittle wall above. Very poor pro throughout on less than average quality rock.

E3 5b Trad 12m
13 Sandy Volestrangler

The overhung crack to the right of Sea Witch

E3 6b Trad 12m
1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls 31 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703596, -3.459986

description

Non tidal - reached at any time from the beach.

approach

Walk down the tarmac path (signed towards Burghead) for approximately 100 metres, until you reach an opening in the embankment on your right. Descend here and travel right (East) towards the large rock face.

descent notes

Along the obvious cliff top path.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Gripper

The corner at the left of the overhung bay to the ledge above, finishing through the tricky roof.

HVS 5b Trad 20m
2 Surf Nazis Must Die

Right of The Gripper. Climb the overhung wall straight up to the small overhang, then power through to the left before working right towards the top. Bring pro to the equivalent of a Friend 0 and a Friend 3.

E5 6b Trad 15m
3 Aesthetic Ape

Climb the bulging corner to the right of Surf Nazis, following it roughly up to a break via a pocket. Pull through onto a block, then finish up to the right.

E4 6a Trad 20m
4 Bat Attack

Lethal ground-fall potential. Climb the edge of the incut recess right of Aesthetic Ape and left of the features of Orange Ape. Use a wobbly horizontal spike to reach a thin crack which leads to the finish.

E5 6a Trad 15m
5 Orange Ape

Follow the undercut corner at the back left of the bay.

E2 5c Trad 20m
6 Statutory Ape

Follow the right edge of the large flake feature approximately 5 paces left of Bat's Wall.Make the ledge above, then reach up to a pinch at the right end of a feature. Levitate to a series of slopers, then follow to the finish above.

E6 6c Trad 15m
7 Bat's Wall

Crack line at the back right of the wall. Start direct, or up the shelf as an easier option.

E4 6a Trad 15m
8 Monkey Mafia

Often damp. Right of Bat's Wall, work your way up the gradually leftward migrating crack line from the depths of the cave. Once you achieve the sloping rest, follow the vertical crack to the roof, the work left on upsettingly poor undercut holds to the groove and the finish.

E4 6a Trad 15m
9 Noddy Machine

The overhung shallow groove line to a ledge with a large flake, traveling up left and through the roof section on jugs to a rightward arete and the finish.

E2 5b Trad 15m
10 Jaded Arete

The arete to the right of Noddy Machine. Climb it.

E2 5c Trad 15m
11 Triangular Groove

The vaguely ovoid shaped groove with a mini roof at the top, just right of Noddy Machine. The left side of the groove is the arete for Jaded Arete. Finish right as per Border Crossing.

HVS 5a Trad 20m
12 Border Crossing

The shallow groove to the right of Triangular Groove. Follow the groove to the flake on the right wall, then head directly up to the finish via a vertical crack.

HS 4b Trad 20m
13 Borderline

The big dihedral right of the groove. Bring a brush.

VS 4c Trad 15m
14 Palmist

Just to the right of Borderline. Climb directly to a jug, employ yoga/contortion/dislocation to stand up in said jug, then straight up the vertical crack to a small ledge and the top.

E4 6b Trad 15m
15 The Prophet

The right hand side of the arete to the right of Palmist. Confusingly, start on a tiny step on the lower left side of the arete. Once you reach the left facing corner take a deep breath, then tackle the roof to easier going and the finish.

E2 5c Trad 15m
16 Africa

To the right of The Prophet. Climb the front face of the bulge towards the feature above that supposedly looks like a map of Africa. Place gear out left before brazenly climbing the sparsely protected face.

E4 6a Trad 15m
17 I-Ching

Climb the next arete to the right pretty much any which way you can. Get inventive with your pro, or it can get alarmingly run out.

E3 5c Trad 20m
18 Left

The left-most corner of the big buttress.

VS 5a Trad 20m
19 Centre

Up Left to a flake, then out right and head directly up the centre.

VS 4b Trad 20m
20 Right

As the name implies, the right corner of the big buttress.

HVS 5a Trad 15m
21 Yorkshire Grip

The arete between Centre and Right. Eliminate - keep your eyes front and centre.

E2 6a Trad 15m
22 Spare Rib

Directly up the rib to the right of Right. No pro before the crux at half height.

HVS 4b Trad 15m
23 Yoohah

To the right of Right's corner, the first groove.

VS 5a Trad 10m
24 Bing-Bong

The second groove to the right of Right's corner, passing the obvious and awkward bulge to an equally awkward top out on slick grass.

S Trad 8m
25 Gnib-Gnob

At the back of a little bay to the right of Bing-Bong, in the corner where the wall shifts direction. Climb the corner.

HS Trad 8m
26 Pigmy Shrew

The clear vertical crack line, right of the corner of Gnib-Gnob.

E1 5c Trad 6m
27 Bank Vole

The next decent looking crack, a few feet to the right of Pigmy Shrew.

VS 5a Trad 6m
28 The Weem

The corner and slot away to the right of Bank Vole.

VD Trad 10m
29 The Wobble

Right of The Weem, you will find a shallow groove that faces left. Go up it.

VD Trad 10m
30 Thud

Like The Wobble, but to it's right and marginally more difficult.

HVS 5b Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 Bay Watch

An 80m traverse taking in all of the sights, starting from near The Gripper and finishing on the grass near Thud. If in doubt, look for chalk off-piste from the main routes. Taxing in duration if not in difficulty. Little red swim suit optional.

6B Boulder
1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703598, -3.461682

description

Non tidal - Loose rock apart from the bottom bay area containing The Nest (E2 6a).

approach

From the slide, follow the tarmac track towards Burghead for 100m, then descend a grassy slope in a break in the embankment on the right hand side of the path. Prophet Wall is to your right, and Tapered Wall is to your left as you look out to sea.

descent notes

Well trodden path back to the grassy break in the embankment, occasionally heavy with gorse. Wear trousers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slimline Chimney

Up at the top left end of the wall, there is a short chimney/corner. Climb it.

S 4b Trad 6m
2 Fracture Face

Look for the wall down the hill a short distance from Slimline covered in short crack features. Loose, friable rock abounds. Treat like a solo with the encumbrance of rope, a harness and necessary provisions.

VS 4b Trad 12m
3 Tall Order

The arete at the end of the wall. Climb it direct.

HVS 5b Trad 12m
4 Tom's Wall

Start at the arete of Tall Order, then migrate right up a chimney full of loose rock.

S Trad 12m
5 Graffiti Wall

Direct up the centre/right graffiti covered slab to the right of Tom's Wall.

VD Trad 10m
6 Pretty Flamingo

Head right until you come across a little bay made up of a corner and roof (The Nest). Climb the arete to the left of the corner, on it's right side.

E1 5c Trad 6m
7 Ultra Radical

Climb the middle of the wall left of The Nest. Absolutely nails. Start at the thin crack and work your way upward using an undercut and sheer grit. Bring a brush to clean the upper sections.

E5 6c Trad 10m
8 The Nest

The roofed corner. The crux is reaching the climb's namesake.

E2 6a Trad 10m
1.1.1.5. The Stack 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703850, -3.462110

description

Partially tidal. The largest of the stacks, visible slightly to the left as you descent from the path between Prophet and Tapered Wall. Exciting climbing in a beautiful location.

approach

As for Tapered Wall. The obvious large sea stack directly in front of Doubt Wall.

descent notes

By abseil, or via Back Passage (Moderate) at low tide.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Captain Birdseye

The left hand corner facing the land. Climb up the face, over the bulge then finish up an obvious groove.

E2 5b Trad 12m
2 Fingers Wall

Begin right of Captain Birdseye, aiming initially for a small square ledge. Traverse right to a set of slightly angled cracks, then work up them to top out.

E3 5b Trad 12m
3 Flying Buttress, Left Side

Begin at the right hand side of the slightly sloping shelf. Follow the corner to a ledge, then transfer to the face and finish directly.

VD Trad 10m
4 Flying Buttress, Right Side

Looking at Flying Buttress, use the same crack but follow the right hand side. Finish up the face as FB Left. No pro for the first three quarters of the route except very large cams in the crack. Easier to just solo it than try to place gear, although the right hand side wall's rock is crumbly

D Trad 12m
5 Flying Groove

Past Flying Buttress to the right is a large clear groove. Climb it.

VS 4c Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 The Prow

Around the East side of the The Stack lies a bulging prow. Climb up then left over the lip, finishing directly up the face. Bring a range of large cams for the upper section where frequent but shallow placements abound.

E5 6a Trad 12m
7 Cutty Sark

To the right of The Prow, between it and a recessed corner. Starts just to the left of the corner, and gradually trends to the left onto the protruding prow. From there finish directly. Tenuous top-out.

S Trad 12m
8 East Side Story

Climb the wall to the left of Back Passage, trending right underneath the ledge covered in grass (and occasionally seagulls) to an easy finish.

VD Trad 12m
9 Back Passage

The recessed corner full of deep cracks. An easy climb for all the family, and doubles as a descent route from the top of The Stack.

M Trad 12m
10 Dirty Old Man

To the right of Back Passage, using the often vegetated cracks. Easy finish.

VD Trad 12m
11 Sunset Song

Climb the curved groove to the right of Dirty Old Man, finishing over a bulge.

HS 4b Trad 12m
12 Footloose

Start at the far right of the North facing wall. Once you get to about half height move over to the left and gain a ledge, then finish to the left over an exciting bulge.

VS 4c Trad 12m
13 Blocky

Start right of Footloose, following a natural line to the right end of a ledge to finish up the corner.

VD Trad 12m
14 Butcher's Broom

Follows clean cracks up the left side edge of the West facing wall to a bulging finish.

VS 4b Trad 12m
15 Shadow Flake

To the right of Butcher's broom. Climb directly to the small flake, then make a long move before finishing right.

HVS 5a Trad 10m
16 Coach Bolt Crack

The obvious left crack, to the right of Shadow Flake.

VS 4c Trad 10m
17 Huggy Bear

The right hand crack of the two, occasionally reaching for the arete when the going gets sparse.

VS 4c Trad 12m
18 Girdle traverse

Clockwise around the block. High tide adds spice, and occasionally soggy ankles.

5b Traverse
1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703693, -3.462128

description

Non tidal - Left of Tapered Wall. The steep wall opposite the largest stack. Finishes at the opening to the tunnel.

approach

As for Tapered Wall.

descent notes

As for Tapered Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doubtless Wall S Trad 10m
2 The Artful Dodger HVS 5a Trad 12m
3 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a Trad 12m
4 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b Trad 12m
5 Doubting Thomas E2 5b Trad 12m
6 Staircase Crack S Trad 12m
7 Green Crack VS 4c Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Lumside Crack S Trad 12m
9 The Lum VD Trad 12m
10 Cascade VS 5a Trad 12m
1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703783, -3.462434

description

Tidal. Right of the arete that becomes blocked off at high tide, there are a range of featured walls with myriad grooves and pock marks, terminating in a rounded undercut section to the left of the next visible cave entrance.

approach

West of Doubt Wall, follow the natural curve of the cliff.

descent notes

Clear path along the cliff edge back towards the tarmac path.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snotty Nose D Trad 12m
2 Pegless Wall HVS 4c Trad 12m
3 Old Peg Groove VS 4c Trad 12m
4 Cornflake Wall M Trad 12m
5 Shredded Wheat VD Trad 12m
6 Rice Crispie Wall D Trad 12m
7 The Groove D Trad 12m
8 Bombproof S Trad 12m
9 Blockproof S Trad 12m
10 Blockbuster VD Trad 12m
11 Doddle Diedre S Trad 12m
12 Stegosaurus VS 4c Trad 12m
13 Gibbon HVS 5c Trad 12m
14 Trapeze VS 5b Trad 12m
15 Gorilla E1 5c Trad 12m
16 Central Face Low Level Traverse 5C Boulder
1.1.1.8. Arch Wall 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703781, -3.462763

description

After Cornflake Wall's undercut ending, continue west past the cave entrance. Between this cave entrance and the next are located two faces - once faces out to sea, the other is a collapsed cave.

approach

Continue west along the cliff base towards Burghead from Cornflake Walls.

descent notes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bottomless Chimney E3 6b Trad 12m
2 Pipefish Wall E3 6a Trad 12m
3 Double Stretch

Highball boulder following a line of harder rock.

6A Boulder 6m
4 Headbanger 5C Boulder 6m
5 Jerker 6B Boulder 6m
6 Slab and Tickle VD Trad 12m
7 Giraffe Corner E3 6a Trad 12m
8 Arch Wall E5 6b Trad 12m
9 Sandstone Wall HVS 5a Trad 12m
10 Appletiser HVS 5a Trad 12m
11 Le Crunch E4 5c Trad 12m
12 Fourth Dimension E2 5c Trad 10m
13 Jewels Underground E3 6a Trad 10m
14 Brain Warp E2 5c Trad 10m
15 Puppet On A String

Dry tooling route.

A3 Trad 22m
16 Bullworker HVS 5a Trad 10m
17 Archibold E4 6a Trad 10m
18 Expander's Crack VS 4c Trad 10m
1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.703638, -3.463135

description

Non tidal. This section of the cliff ends in a west facing wall that gradually tapers above a grassy embankment.

approach

Continue west from Sunshine Wall.

descent notes

As for Sunshine Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Arete E Trad 10m
2 Sunshine Roof HS Trad 10m
3 Gorse Route S Trad 10m
4 Sunshine Groove S Trad 8m
5 Sunshine HVS 5b Trad 8m
6 Sunshine Crack VS 4c Trad 6m
7 Sunshine Extra HS 4b Trad 6m
8 Sunshine Recess S Trad 4m
1.1.1.10. Sentinel Stack 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.703840, -3.464592

description

The second of three stacks to the West of The Stack, identifiable by a tunnel running through it's centre.

approach

Pass Sunshine Wall from above on the path or below on the beach whilst headed west towards Burghead - the Maltings can be seen (and often scented) from here, then proceed across the small beach (towards the sea) to the protruding stack which is the Sentinel.

descent notes

Abseil, or proceed down Ramp Route (Severe).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Pedestal

Start on a lump of rock at the end of the tunnel and follow the overhang punctured by big positive holds.

4C Boulder
2 Jutting Flake Crack

The obvious line up the corner of the stack closest to Sunshine Wall (SE?).

HS 4b Trad 8m
3 Vein Attraction

Around the corner from Jutting Flake Crack, following a vein of good quality rock all the way up.

S Trad 8m
4 Ramp Route

Facing The Sentinel from the East, climb the ramp at the right hand side until you reach a flake. From then on climb direct to the top on good handholds.

S Trad 8m

1.1.2. Logie Head 81 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700368, -2.792708

description

Peninsula just east of Cullen. East facing and very fast drying. Has a lovely carpet of grass at the base of the non-tidal sectors.

approach

Park by the Cullen caravan park (57.693679, -2.814896), walk east past Nelson's Seat and down to the coast. Follow the coastal path under the cliff to reach the dyke in the distance.

1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700064, -2.792989

description

The first two sectors on the eastward side of the peninsula.

approach

Down the concrete then stone steps

Non-tidal.

descent notes

Easy walk down the back or via the rake.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mousehole S 4b Trad 5m
2 Sea Mouse HS 4b Trad 6m
3 Bladder Wrack S 4b Trad 10m
4 Sea Urchin HS 4b Trad 10m
5 Sea Link VD Trad 10m
6 Eliminate Wall

Climbs the wall between Sea Urchin and Poacher

E1 5c Trad 10m
7 Poacher VS 4b Trad 10m
8 Spread the Donkey VS 4c Trad 10m
9 Cullenary Delight VS 5a Trad 10m
10 Easy Over E1 5b Trad 10m
11 Sunny Side Up HVS 5a Trad 10m
12 Sunny Side Direct E1 5c Trad 10m
13 Dennis

Follow the obvious diagonal fault from right to left, keeping feet in the fault-line all the way, finishing past Mousehole.

VS 4c Trad
14 The Last Drop

Eliminate between 'Sunnyside Direct' and 'Fisherman's Tail'.

E1 5b Trad 10m
15 Fisherman's Tail HS Trad 10m
16 Sandy Crack E1 5b Trad 8m
17 No Hands Crack E1 5b Trad 8m
18 Doc's Crack HVS 5b Trad 6m
19 The Central Belt E1 5b Trad 30m
20 Narrow Chimney VD Trad 8m
21 That Is The Question HVS 5a Trad 8m
22 On the Beach HVS 5a Trad 10m
23 Dave's Dilemma E1 5b Trad 10m
24 Holy Ground E2 5c Trad 12m
25 Cow's Crack HVS 4c Trad 12m
1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700278, -2.792618

description

Past Embankment 2 to the right, where the sea is.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Friend S 4b Trad 5m
2 Foe E1 5b Trad 6m
3 Arch Enemy HVS 5a Trad 8m
4 The Clan D Trad 12m
5 Cullen Chimney S Trad 12m
6 Bouillabaisse HVS 5a Trad 12m
7 Cullen Crack VS 4b Trad 12m
8 Snap Happy E1 5a Trad 15m
9 The Skunk VD Trad 12m
10 Fat Chick HVS 5a Trad 15m
11 Capekyle HVS 5a Trad 15m
12 The Skink S Trad 12m
13 Findlater Rib VD Trad 12m
1.1.2.3. Gully Wall 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700511, -2.792293

description

The gully at the seaward end of the Head.

approach

Walk along the top of the Head until you see the obvious gully in front of you near the end.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sea Snake E2 5b Trad 10m
2 The Shrimp VD Trad 5m
3 The Angry Anchovy VS 4c Trad 8m
4 Callous Crayfish VS 5a Trad 8m
5 Daisy Link 5C Boulder 5m
6 Daisy Cutter HVS 5b Trad 10m
7 Sea Pink VS 4c Trad 10m
8 Sea Anenome E1 5b Trad 10m
9 Greenpeace S Trad 10m
10 Greenvoe S Trad 12m
1.1.2.4. Star Zone 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700726, -2.792007

description

Past the gully of Gully Wall to it's left from above. Very very fast to dry and some of the most solid rock at the Head.

approach

At high tide as for Gully Wall, at low tide just walk around the Head until you get to a rock platform below the climbs (submerged at high tide).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Star Struck HVS 5b Trad 12m
2 Anti-Matter HS Trad 12m
3 The White Dwarf VS 4c Trad 12m
4 Brittle Star HS Trad 12m
5 Black Hole D Trad 15m
6 Moray Eel VS 4c Trad 10m
7 Rising Star HVS 5b Trad 10m
8 Western Star E2 5c Trad 10m
9 Fallen Star VS 4c Trad 10m
10 Fading Star HVS 5a Trad 10m
11 Dark Star E1 5b Trad 10m
12 Southern Cross E2 5b Trad 12m
13 Northern logic HVS 5a Trad 10m
1.1.2.5. West Face 10 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700594, -2.792378

description

The westward face of the Head.

approach

As for Star Zone or approach along the beach from the west at low tide.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Seal's Crack E3 6a Trad 10m
2 The Cull E1 5b Trad 8m
3 Lone Star HS Trad 8m
4 Little Green Man D Trad 6m
5 Polaris VD Trad 15m
6 Buckies VD Trad 5m
7 Cockles VD Trad 6m
8 Mussels VS 4b Trad 8m
9 Black Pearl S Trad 5m
10 Limpet Flakes HS 5a Trad 8m
1.1.2.6. Path Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 57.699715, -2.793327

description

On the mainland, the rock overlooking the concrete steps of the approach path.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pathetique S Boulder 3m
2 Pathology HS 5b Trad 8m
3 Apathy E1 5c Trad 8m
4 The Garden path HS Trad 10m
1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.700137, -2.793964

description

The large pinnacle of rock just to the west of Logie Head, separated from it by about ten meters of water.

approach

Just turn left off of the path from Cullen about 15 meters before you would reach the Head, and walk to the pinnacle of rock in front of you.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Remembrance Sunday E2 5b Trad 15m
2 Fianchetto E1 5b Trad 15m
3 Endgame E1 5b Trad 15m
4 Material Advantage HVS 5a Trad 15m
5 Hanging Pawn HVS 5a Trad 15m
6 Mating Net E1 5b Trad 15m

1.1.3. Mull Cleave 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.672946, -2.428947

description

A big stack of rock poking out into the sea.

approach

From Mill of Melrose walk north then west around the fields towards the sea. The rock is visible from the cliff edge. Bring rap gear.

1.1.3.1. West face 4 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.673604, -2.429271

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hammerhead E1 5a Trad 25m
2 Shark's Back E1 5b Trad 25m
3 Loan Shark E1 5b Trad 25m
4 Cleavage VS 4b Trad 25m
1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls 5 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.672504, -2.428787

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Snout VS 4c Trad 10m
2 The Clasper S Trad 8m
3 Jam Crack S Trad 8m
4 Shagreen VS 4c Trad 10m
5 Spiracle S Trad 10m

1.1.4. Covesea 48 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.717933, -3.391606

description

North facing sea cliffs on variable sandstone

approach

Approaching from Lossiemouth on the B9040, pull in at the tarmac entrance to a gated path on the right, approximately 200 metres after some houses on the same side. The turn off is at the beginning of a small forest, and has footpath signs but at the time of writing no road signage.

1.1.4.1. Primrose Bay 1 route in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.713391, -3.413577

description

A very picturesque little bay, accessible on foot from Hopeman by heading eastwards down the path along the beach approximately 600m. Gets busy at the weekends with picnickers.

approach

Along the beach east from Hopeman, or the path parallel to the beach. Passes the golf course when you're close.

descent notes

The routes on the western side have (occasionally well hidden) stakes at the top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hacuna Mattata

Rap down to the hanging belay by way of the stakes at the top, clipping an in situ thread and an old peg. The belay is fairly obvious, just above where the sandstone turns soft and cuts in to the face to leave an overhang.

E3 5c Trad 30m
1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.713110, -3.411528

description

The furthest west wall, to the left of the coast guard hut as you approach along the track. West facing, not really affected by the tides - as such, often needs a shuftie around with a brush before climbing as it gets very sandy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Per Guano ad Astra HVS 5a Trad 10m
2 The Sandman E4 6a Trad 10m
3 Invisible Sun E3 5c Trad 10m
4 The Sandbagger E2 5b Trad 10m
5 Cat's Claws E2 5c Trad 10m
6 Drone Warfare E2 5a Trad 10m
7 Shear Fear E3 5c Trad 12m
8 Primal Scream E5 6a Trad 12m
9 Primitive Thoughts About Modern Girls E2 5b Trad 15m
1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.713613, -3.410413

description

Not tidal, N and NW facing. Generally solid stone throughout.

approach

Down the path from the lookout station, then head east towards Lossiemouth for roughly 50 metres until you find a squarish boulder with a downward facing chimney on the left. Descend the chimney (fixed ropes), then head towards Lossiemouth again for the main bulk of the routes. The first two routes are to the west.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Off The Leash

The left hand corner

VS 4b Trad 15m
2 Juggernaut

The right corner

HVS 5a Trad 15m
3 Past Imperfect

At the far left of the heavily featured wall is a right facing corner. Climb it beginning right of the pile of boulders

HVS 5a Trad 12m
4 Family Affair

The jug-strewn line starting below the incut arête. At the thread move left, then progress back right to finish

E2 5b Trad 12m
5 Sleepy Hollow

The poorly protected back wall, beginning centrally, then progressing left up the hanging corner section to finish

E1 5a Trad 12m
6 Private Dancer

Follow the thin crack into the hanging corner

E3 5c Trad 12m
7 Sandanista

The crack to the left of PD

E2 5c Trad 12m
8 The Domino Eeffect

The crack to the left of Sandanista

E3 5c Trad 12m
9 Squadrone Muerte

From a boulder, step onto the face and climb directly up the poorly protected face. The belay stakes are a fair distance away (30 paces-ish) from the edge of the cliff, so bring plenty of rope

E3 5c Trad 15m
10 Banana Republic

Ascend the roof approx 8 paces right of Facist Octopus

E1 5b Trad 15m
11 Fascist Octopus

The large roofed corner right at the back of the next bay you come to after BR. Use the left corner to progress up to the roof (peg in situ), then move over left and reach up to tenuous holds and eventually a decent sized ledge. Finish up the corner.

E5 6b Trad 15m
12 Bottle Dungeon

After FO you will find a cave. Climb it's right arête

E4 6a Trad 15m
13 Dancing in the Dark

Progress up the left side of the inside of the cave via an arête, then aim left to a visible crack line to the top.

E2 5c Trad 15m
14 Urban Gorilla

Begin at the left arête of the cave, and then climb the roof left of DitD, aiming for the flat ledge on top of the obvious block. Finish as DitD.

E3 6a Trad 15m
15 Roof Crack

The clear crack line through the roof to the left of UG.

E6 6c Trad 15m
16 Girsie Crack

The loose, grassy and generally unpleasant cracks to the left of RC.

VS 4c Trad 12m
17 Annie Hall

Before you reach the arête of Orphan Annie there is a crack on your right. Climb it and marvel as it scoffs your gear.

HVS 5a Trad 12m
18 Orphan Annie

The obvious arête immediately after AH. Place gear in the crack of AH, or ride the highway to the danger zone with minimal pro (E3). Climb the right side of the arête.

E2 5b Trad 12m
19 Stress Relief

Start left of the arête of OA, then move boldly towards the in situ peg. The occasional hand and foot on the arête is in keeping with the line.

E2 5c Trad 12m
20 Thatcher's Crack

The crack left of SR offers steady and well protected climbing.

VS 4b Trad 12m
21 Per Rectum

Roughly ten paces left of OA, past the crack of TC. Begins in a bay and travels up through a chimney formed by a jammed boulder, before finishing up the arête to the right.

VS 4c Trad 12m
1.1.4.4. Stack Bay 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:

description

The bay fills up at high tide.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Protection Racket E1 5b Trad 12m
2 Celebrate the Bullet HVS 5a Trad 12m
3 Synthetic Pathway E1 5a Trad 15m
4 Creepie Crawlie HVS 5b Trad 12m
5 Slyme Crime E4 6a Trad 10m
6 Paul Tax Trad 10m
7 Back and Foot Disease HVS 5a Trad 10m
8 The Vertical Smile VS 4c Trad 10m
9 The Gowp E1 5a Trad 15m
10 The Growl E2 5b Trad 12m
11 Battle of the Bulge HVS 5a Trad 10m
12 Legover Wall E1 5c Trad 10m
13 Horny Beast E1 5c Trad 10m
14 Crack-a-Gow-Gow VS 4c Trad 10m
1.1.4.5. Stone Steps Area 1 route in Cliff
Summary:

description

North facing.

approach

A small bay, accessible by steps from above at all tides.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gowing Nowhere

Keep your eyes peeled for the obvious chimney/crack/thrutchy horror. Once located, ascend it.

VS 4c Trad 12m
1.1.4.6. Beach Wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:

description

East facing vertical wall. The bay contains Gow's Castle on the Eastern side as a point of reference.

approach

The Eastern-most area of Covesea, accessible from above or along the beach at low tide.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Beachboys

Ascend the east facing vertical wall, staying clear of the right arête until the final finishing moves.

HVS 5a Trad 10m
2 Reach or Beach

Begin directly below a rusting in situ peg, climbing directly to it then traversing right to a right-facing corner. Compose yourself then finish straight up the corner.

E1 5b Trad 10m

1.1.5. Rosehearty Crag 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.5.1. Quarryhead - Car Park Island 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.2. Quarryhead - Car Park Crag 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.3. Quarryhead - Moon Wall 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.4. Murcurry - North Wall 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.5. Murcurry - South Wall 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.6. Murcurry - Dead Sheep Zawn 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.7. The Sea-Cliffs - East Buttress 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.8. The Sea-Cliffs - Middle Crag 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.9. The Sea-Cliffs - West Wall 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.10. The Sea-Cliffs - West Inside Buttress 0 routes in Sector
1.1.5.11. The Sea-Cliffs - Backside Wall 0 routes in Sector

1.1.6. Mohr Head 0 routes in Cliff

description

Mohr Head is a cliff on the west of Gardenstown Beach Bay. A place with historical interest since it holds a Commonwealth graveyard. The climbable areas are big granitic-metamorphic boulders that landslide from the top of the cliff due to extreme weather and conditions for thousands of years. It's an undeveloped remote area with the potential to develop some lines.

Boulders can be found at the top of the cliff and in the shore. The ones on the shore(still in development) can only be accessed with low tide and it can be a dangerous place without tide knowledge. The ones at the top of the cliff can always be accessed using a steep path but they are greatly exposed and you need to be aware of falling zones to avoid rolling down the cliff, certain movements are considered not falling zones, and the place is not recommended for kids.

The rock is mostly solid, only in some small areas(cliff side of the Top Boulders)the rock is loose and caution is needed.

The sense of cliff exposure paired with the great views of the bay and the ocean makes the whole bouldering experience magig during dawn or sunset.

approach

The boulders at the shore can be accessed with low tide through Gardenstown beach. The boulders at the top of the cliff can be accessed through a steep path that starts after St. Johns Church Kirkyard

1.2. Coast North of Aberdeen 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.432113, -1.942352

summary

Sea cliffs offering a wide range of conditions, rock formations, lengths and styles.

description

Mostly trad venues tidal and non-tidal options, and some decent sport spots.

1.2.1. Meackie Point 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.456002, -1.789759

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Collector E1 5b Trad 15m
2 Flurry

Bold start.

E1 5b Trad 15m
3 Impending Doom E2 5b Trad 20m
4 Scurry HVS 5a Trad
5 The Water Margin E1 5b Trad 12m
6 Trial of Tears

Often wet at the top.

E3 6a Trad 15m
7 The Killing Moon E1 5b Trad 15m
8 Legend E2 5c Trad 15m
9 The Changeling E4 6a Trad 15m

1.2.2. Fulmar Wall 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.421838, -1.825823

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Knacker's Yard E2 5c Trad
2 Knacker's Crack E1 5b Trad
3 Bird's Nest Route S Trad 20m
4 Bird's Nest Route - Direct Finish HS 4b Trad 20m
5 Bones Corner VS 4c Trad
6 Intrusion VS 4b Trad
7 Albatross S Trad
8 The Weight HS Trad 20m
9 Billy the Kid HVS 5b Trad

1.2.3. Meikle Partans 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.422658, -1.824513

description

Lovely sea cliff on solid granite. No tidal issues, and easy walk down.

Climbs described right-to-left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Constellation S Trad 15m
2 Shallow Diedre VS 4b Trad 10m
3 Jug Wall

Climb the short crack then juggy wall above.

D Trad 10m
4 Strawclutchers Wall E1 5b Trad 10m
5 The Band of Hope HVS 5a Trad 10m
6 The Bridge VS 4b Trad 10m
7 The Bridge - Talisman E1 5c Trad 15m
8 The Bridge - Right Hand Variation HVS 5a Trad 15m
9 Epistrophe VS 4b Trad

1.3. Coast South of Aberdeen 173 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 57.064334, -2.113133

1.3.1. The Fin 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.071493, -2.093619

summary

Bay just north of Orchestra cave and Boglesheugh, varies from super steep roof routes on the left to somewhat less steep wall routes on the right. It offers well equipped sport routes with good positive, athletic climbing. Although there are some easier routes they are generally of poor quality and require a knowledagble belayer due to the close proximity of the ground. As such the crag can not be recommended for the inexperinced.

access issues

Don't walk through the private shooting range from the north.

approach

Approach notes

The routes are on the north wall of the deep inlet immediately north of the Orchestra cave. Park as Orchestra cave, please park with respect to the locals on the street, do not park vans on the grass verge. Findon is a very small village and we do not wish to upset the locals by filling up the village with badly parked cars. Think about sharing lifts if possible or you could meet in Portlethan Asda and take one car from there.

Approach as for the cave but once in the field cross it slightly north to follow the field edge overlooking the deep inlet to the sorth. Now descend the steep grass at the back of the inlet (worn path) to where an insitu knotted rope can be descended hand over hand down a steep slab. Precarious when wet and be sure to check condition of rope before doing so. Then walk round to the base of the routes.

history

Recently developed hard sport and bouldering crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Free Willy {FR} 8a Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Moby Dick {FR} 8a Sport 30m, 2
3 Moby Killer {FR} 8a+ Sport 25m, 2
4 Anaconda {FR} 8b+ Sport 25m
5 Red Bellied {FR} 6b Sport 10m
6 Mako {FR} 7c Sport 20m
7 Killer Wail {FR} 8a Sport 25m
8 Megolodon 1st lower off {FR} 6b Sport 10m
9 Megolodon {FR} 8a+ Sport 25m, 2
10 Yoshi {FR} 7a Sport 25m
11 Yoshi Extension {FR} 7b+ Sport 30m
12 Killer Instinct {FR} 8b Sport 25m
13 Sting-Yoshi {FR} 6c+ Sport 25m
14 Stingray {FR} 7b Sport 15m
15 Dorado {FR} 7b+ Sport 15m
16 Dorado Cop-Out {FR} 7b Sport 15m
17 Dorado-Ray {FR} 7b+ Sport 15m
18 Mahi Mahi {FR} 7c Sport 16m
19 Barracuda {FR} 7a+ Sport 15m
20 Barramundi {FR} 6c Sport 15m

1.3.2. Earnsheugh 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.073491, -2.096420

summary

Intimidating multipitch sea cliff climbing on good rock, sheltered from sea spooge, wind and rain. Does seep in cracks and from the top, aretes and exposed faces are often covered in Lichen.

description

Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. The crag takes little time to dry after rain but can suffer from the dreaded coastal dampness. It's sheltered location can be both a hindrance as well as a godsend. Low humidity and winds from a West to Northerly direction generally give the best conditions. Some of the holds can feel a bit dirty but this only adds to the adventure. One of the best crags on the coast.

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b), Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

access issues

On a clay pidgeon range, watch out for shooters. cliffs sometimes get littered with clay fragments.

approach

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil from the stakes at the top.

ethic

Trad.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Batty Bat HVS 5a Trad 80m, 3
2 Hissing Sid HVS 5a Trad 75m, 3
3 Earnsheugh Ridge E1 5a Trad 75m, 2
4 The Lost World HVS 5a Trad 40m, 2
5 Mysterious Journey E1 5b Trad 65m, 3
6 Tyrannosaurus Wrecks E4 6a Trad 30m, 2
7 Ichthyosaurus E5 6a Trad 30m, 2
8 Death Rattle Roofs E4 6a Trad 55m, 3
9 Cthulu E5 6a Unknown 65m, 3
10 Grim Spectre E6 6b Trad 50m, 3
11 Thugosaurus E6 6a Trad 50m, 2
12 Thugosaurus Direct E5 6a Trad 50m, 3
13 Prehistoric Monster E5 6a Trad 60m, 3
14 Grimly Fiendish E4 6a Trad 35m, 2
15 Death Cap E1 5a Trad 35m, 2
16 Necromancer E5 6a Trad 40m, 3
17 Weird Sister E3 5c Trad 40m, 3
18 Pterodactyl E2 5b Trad 45m, 3
19 Bats Belfry E2 5c Trad 35m, 3
20 Blinkered Bat E3 5c Trad 25m

1.3.3. Floors Craig 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.037014, -2.131066

description

Floors Craig has plenty to offer the VS climber, as well as those operating at E2-E4. The Pugulist and Manassa Mauler are two of the coast classics.

Non-tidal venue, but care should be taken in big swells, so check the wind.

A major rockfall has destroyed the routes from Kinhaken to Blockbuster. February 2024.

access issues

If you want to park in the yard of the nearest farm, you have to knock on the door and ask the farmer. They'll tell you whether they're working in the yard that day and, if not, where you can park.

approach

North parking at the farm (57.040971, -2.135423). Please ask the farmer if it's OK to park at his turning pad. From here walk south until you reach a metal gate. Go down the field on the left walking SE, go past a big cove and find the crag ahead by the smaller inlet.

South parking as for Craig Stirling (57.039035, -2.145046). From here continue on the Backburn track south east all the way around until you are walking north east and you reach a metal gate. Go down the field on the right walking SE, go past a big cove and find the crag ahead by the smaller inlet.

The crag can be found at coords (57.036960, -2.130830).

Walking descent can be made either by the north or south. Abseil is more convenient when doing many routes. At low tides, all aspects can be reached from the bottom. At high tides or big swells, each area may need to be reached by independently by scrambling or abseil.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cruel Sea E1 5b Trad 10m
2 Raging Bull E3 5b Trad 10m
3 The Boxer E2 5c Trad 10m
4 Sprunt's Route E2 5c Trad 10m
5 Coup de Grace E2 5c Trad 10m
6 Sair Fecht E3 6a Trad 12m
7 Cold Turkey VS 4c Trad 9m
8 Left Right and Centre E1 5b Trad 9m

1.3.4. Boltsheugh 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.029662, -2.142793

description

The original Aberdeen sport climbing crag has since had some trad routes added on walls to the north and south of the bolts.

The sports climbs tend to be short and vicious. The trad climbs tend to be on adventurous rock.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Mostly non-tidal, though the routes at the south end of the headland are affected

1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper 12 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.029903, -2.142783

description

First sector yo encounter as you approach it. Short overhanging routes of all grades and a few boulder problems. Routes described left to right

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Meany {FR} 5c Sport 6m
2 Eany {FR} 5c Sport 6m
3 Mo {FR} 6a Sport 6m
4 The Dark Side {FR} 6c+ Sport 7m
5 Automatic {FR} 6c+ Sport 8m
6 The Dregs {FR} 6a Sport 8m
7 Unnamed

Route not in the gudebook. To the left of the obvious crack and left of Little Creatures.

{FR} 5b Sport 9m
8 Traverse of the Cods

This route starts at Little Creatures, then traverses right on the obvious break, then finishes up on Aches in Provence.

{FR} 7a Sport 12m
9 Little Creatures {FR} 6c Sport 6m
10 Crossroads {FR} 6a+ Sport 6m
11 Aches in Provence {FR} 6c Sport 6m
12 Deadheads {FR} 7b Sport 6m
1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower 8 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.029424, -2.143234

description

Walk down from the emd of the Upper sector, and find a cave and a platform with a wall with much longer routes than on the Upper sector. Even tho it may look tidal, you can normally climb here all day without problem.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Morrison's Missed Adventure {FR} 7a Sport 18m
2 Rankin's Rain Games {FR} 6b Sport 18m
3 The League of Whingers

Shares lower off with Hardy and Laurel. Soft for the grade.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 18m
4 Hardy

The line of bolts right of League of Whingers.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
5 Laurel

Same start as Hardy, but quickly take the line of bolts to the right, and finish on the same LO.

{FR} 6a Sport 18m
6 Cheeky Madam

The Line on the left side of the cave. Soft for the grade, but worthwhile nonetheless.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 15m
7 Trouble Monkey

The line on the right side of the cave. It must be climbed to the left of the bolts across the roof for the tricky 7a+ moves. If climbed to the right of the roof (much eaasier ground) then it's only a 6b+ variation.

{FR} 7a+ Sport 15m
8 Trouble Monkey Variation

A popular route that takes the right side of the bolts of the 7a+, making it a much easier climb and cutting the roof short, escaping it promptly.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 15m

1.3.5. Brown Crag 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.022738, -2.149695

description

A steep wall above a non-tidal platform. Good, well-protected climbing.

Some routes are prone to seeping.

approach

If parking at the Bettridge Centre in Newtonhill, walk south behind the centre and go past the playing fields. After the playing fields, you'll encounter a farmer's field closed by a fence. Go over the fence and walk on the edge of the field (respect the crops) near the coast, until you've walked for about 400m and you find a large post and a few large boulders (57.023148, -2.149499), which mark where you cross the fence and head south-west down the slope to the top of the crag. Some big boulders provide suitable abseil anchors or drop into the small corner that is above Rock Lobster and good nuts and cams work well. 20m will get you down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Mass E1 5c Trad 10m
2 Pinch of Salt E5 6a Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Rock Lobster E3 5c Trad 15m
4 Incontinence Crack E1 5a Trad 15m
5 Nappy Rash E2 5b Trad 15m
6 Z Bend VS 4b Trad 15m
7 Clean Round the Bend HVS 5a Trad 15m
8 Dosmestos E1 5b Trad 20m
9 Weakling Wall E2 5b Trad 20m
10 Davidson´s Delight E1 5a Trad 20m

1.3.6. Brown Band Crag 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.022582, -2.149932

description

Immediately south of Brown Crag, this is shorter, steeper, quicker to dry and sunnier. Grooves and roofs from Diff to E5. Something for everyone.

approach

Approach as for the top of Brown Crag then continue south to the cliff top. A prominent small block is above the crag. Ab in.

If parking at the Bettridge Centre in Newtonhil, walk south behind the centre and go past the playing fields. After the playing fields, you'll encounter a farmer's field closed by a fence. Go over the fence and walk on the edge of the field (respect the crops) near the coast, until you've walked for about 400m and you find a large post and a few large boulders (57.023148, -2.149499), which mark where you cross the fence and head south-west down the slope to the top of Brown Crag. Cross the small burn (water stream) southwards to position yourself on top of Brown Band Crag, which is well recognised by the prominent square block used as an abseil point (20m).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Coalition E3 6a Trad 12m
2 The Fire Inside E2 5b Trad 12m
3 Torn D Trad 12m
4 Haar Hole E1 5b Trad 12m
5 Haar Attack E4 6a Trad 12m
6 Lost E2 5c Trad 12m
7 Found E1 5b Trad 13m
8 Forgotten HVS 5b Trad 13m

1.3.7. Yellow Crag 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.021811, -2.152039

summary

A hybrid crag with some sport and trad. Helmets recommended. The main wall will be partially affected in very high tides or big swells. Climbing all year round.

description

The crag faces south/south-east and can be a delightful sun trap, with climbing possible even through the middle of winter. A stick lip is handy to clip the first bolt on many of the routes though a bit of careful spotting plus equipping and clipping the bottom bolt of other routes after doing one means you can easily manage without.

access issues

No issues. Watch out for strong swells during high tide.

approach

From the Bettridge Centre car park (57.030423, -2.148508) follow the path to the south alongside the railway over the style and beyond the railway bridge and continue past the obvious (telephone) mast.

At the next field fence (gate often open), turn left (south-east) and walk to the edge of the field then turn right and follow the fence south-west until you reach the point in the fence where it makes a sharp turn to the left (towards the sea), cross the wire fence by the large cylindrical post (57.021867, -2.153115). You'll soon see the crag and a path going down hill which passes below the first buttress on the left.

history

Bolted in winter 2021/22.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Access Wall

South-east facing

2 Soft rock Cafe {FR} 6a+ Sport 10m
3 Working Lunch {FR} 6c Sport 10m
4 Belay Boy {FR} 6c Sport 11m
5 Wamy Uppy {FR} 5b Sport 10m

Sunshine Slabs

South facing

7 Surco del sol {FR} 6a Sport 22m, 11
8 Placa del sol {FR} 5b Sport 25m, 12
9 Sunshine Slab {FR} 5b Sport 26m, 11
10 Weather Beaten {FR} 5c Sport 27m, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Main Face

South-east facing. Semi-tidal.

12 Cinder Rose {FR} 4b Sport 18m, 8
13 Gorse Blossom {FR} 5c Sport 18m, 9
14 Monochrome {FR} 6c+ Sport 18m, 8
15 Incandescent {FR} 6b+ Sport 18m, 9
16 Technicolor {FR} 6c Sport 18m, 10
17 Foam Party (sport) {FR} 6c Sport 18m
18 Foam Party (trad) E4 5c Trad 18m
19 Fun Lovin' Criminals {FR} 6b+ Sport 16m, 10
20 The Secret Policeman's Other Ball

The left hand crack-line starting left of the shallow cave/alcove.

E2 5b Trad 12m
21 The Fuzz

Line between 'The Secret Policeman's Other Ball' and 'C.I.D. Wall', starting right of the cave/alcove.

E2 5b Trad 12m
22 C.I.D. Wall

The righthand crack-line just left of the edge. Rock a little friable towards the top.

E2 5b Trad 12m

1.3.8. Craig Stirling 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.033985, -2.134442

summary

Classic Sea cliff climbing on stunning rock, one of the best sea cliffs in Aberdeen

description

Coastal sea cliff climbing in a sensational position along a headland, rock is subject to sea spray and tends to be grimy unless a strong northerly breeze is blowing. topouts are often lichenous, worthwhile bringing a brush and cleaning on the rap in.

access issues

Watch for nesting season for sea birds, routes should not be climbed during this period.

approach

approach 20mins walk from nearest side road.

ethic

All traditional climbing, no bolting. Routes on aretes and overhangs are often deepwater soloed at High tide on the west buttress. The east buttress is well protected by deepwater, most routes can be soloed at an time.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Ordinary Route

FA: I. Clough & J. Cleare

{AU} FR:5a UK:HVS Unknown 25m
1.3.8.1. West Buttress 10 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.034061, -2.134733

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Free Fall VS 4c Trad 20m
2 Yipeekaiae E3 5c Trad 20m
3 Searcher E2 5b Trad 20m
4 Yassassin E6 6b Trad 20m
5 Yassassin - Yahoochie Link E6 6b Trad 20m
6 Yahoochie E6 6a Trad 20m
7 Yertezoot E5 6b Trad 20m
8 Running Wild - Yertezoot Link E6 6b Trad 20m
9 Running Wild E5 6b Trad 20m
10 Electric Chair E2 5b Trad 20m
1.3.8.2. East Buttress 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.033909, -2.134089

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grand Diedre HVS 5a Trad 20m
2 The Reach Around

Far right from Depth Charge direct, climb roof on RH side to 'reach around' sloper, mantle on good crimps to RH face of arete(5c). Climb depth charge Arete to the top(5a).

FFA: Michael Lehmann, 1 Jan 2020

E3 5c Trad 20m
3 Petite Deidre VD Trad 20m
4 Jeux Sans Frontiers E3 5c Trad 20m
5 Eastern Girdle HS Trad 20m
6 Upper Eastern Girdle VS 4c Trad 20m
7 Depth Charge E1 5a Trad 20m
8 Depth Charge Direct Start E3 5c Trad 20m
9 Sea Cat E3 5b Trad 20m
10 Clockwork Rat E3 5c Trad 20m
11 Clockwork Cat E3 5c Trad 20m

1.3.9. Clashrodney 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.082316, -2.088042

summary

Pleasant sunny walls and near to Aberdeen

description

Good varity of single pitch routes. "Must do" routes: Birthday Treat E1 5a, Sunlover's Traverse E1 5b, Stiletto HS, Gorgon VS 5a, Blind Faith E3 5c.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Cross the railway then follow a fence coastward in a vague grassy hollow with a gorse-strewn left bank. Cross the fence and follow a small path slightly leftwards across the heather to cross a burn (which ends in a waterfall beside some of the climbs). Keep going north-east until you overlook a small inlet, the Lagoon. There is an iron spike on bare rocks in a vague hollow. Descend the short wall below with the aid of another iron spike.

1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs 11 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.083145, -2.087836

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pipeyard Blues S Trad 15m
2 Creased Slab M Trad 10m
3 Grimble E2 5b Trad 10m
4 Grimace E1 5b Trad 10m
5 The Slant M Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Blind Faith E3 5c Trad 20m
7 Birthday Treat E1 5b Trad 20m
8 Have One On Me HVS 5a Trad 20m
9 Jug Fest E1 5a Trad 20m
10 Mac's Route S Trad 20m
11 Corbett's Crack S Trad 15m
1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab 6 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.083014, -2.088020

description

A justifiably popular slab. Routes described left to right.

approach

Gained by descending the iron spikes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Hairline

The left-hand crack gives a classic route.

S Trad 10m
2 Chester

The discontinuous fault between The Hairline and Stiletto, starting up a short right-facing corner.

VS 4c Trad 15m
3 Stiletto

The twin cracks are tricky to start. Thereafter they give delightful and delicate climbing on small holds.

HS Trad 15m
4 Gorgon

The crack-line 2m right of Stiletto. Start on a small ledge at its right side. Pull up right over th bulge on quartz jugs then step left and follow the crack to the top.

VS 5a Trad 15m
5 Medusa

The recessed corner around to the right requires low tide for access although it is possible to traverse in at VS 4c. Climb the corner and continuation crack.

S Trad 20m
6 Serpent

Traverse as for Medusa. Climb the corner immediately right to a roof. Turn using the left edge to gain the slab and finish more easily up the crack on the right.

VS 5a Trad 20m
1.3.9.3. Central Buttress 9 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.082844, -2.088316

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Robb's Revenge

The left rib of the obvious chimney.

VD Trad 10m
2 Chisel Chimney

The chimney with an overhanging block.

VD Trad 10m
3 Sphincter Cannon

Start 3m left of Stone Roses. Make steep bouldery moves up and left to reach the obvious spike (crux. unprotected). Pull out left and finish easily.

E3 5c Trad 10m
4 Stone Roses

Climb the smooth corner, exiting right to gain a standing position on the obvious spike (crux). Move up to an overhang, traverse left to a recess and finish easily.

E2 5b Trad 10m
5 Capitol Wall

The left-slanting line right of Stone Roses, finishing up a bulging niche. A direct start is possible at VS 5a. Start at the base of the arete right of Stone Roses.

VS 4b Trad 10m
6 Capitol Wall - Direct Start VS 5a Trad 10m
7 Senate VS 4b Trad 10m
8 Quick Corner

The right-hand corner.

S Trad 10m
9 Whizzer

The well defined rib to the right of Quick Coner.

VD Trad 10m
1.3.9.4. The Waterfall Climbs 4 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.082477, -2.088247

description

Routes are described from right to left. These lie on the short walls south of the iron spike descent, bounded on the south by the waterfall, the final gesture of the little burn mentioned in the approach notes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yellow Peril

This is the best line hereabouts, taking the obvious hanging corner on the first steep wall. Pull up onto the right edge of the lower scoop and go up to the rib to a bulge. Swing up left over the bulge to gain the groove leading to the top.

E1 5b Trad 10m
2 Oaf

There are overhangs left of The Prisoner E4, and a slab left of a niche. Pull directly up onto the slab via a thin crack. Go up the slab and a short corner to the top.

VS 4c Trad 10m
3 Gristwood's Gutties

The obvious roofed corner round left from Oaf.

S Trad 6m
4 The Nose

The obvious nose between the previous line and the waterfall.

VS 4c Trad 5m
1.3.9.5. Cairnrobin Point 4 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 57.081677, -2.088988

description

Non-tidal. South-East facing. These routes lie 50 meters south of the waterfall, at a small headland. Although short, there are some enjoyable routes, often on good quality rock.

approach

An approach can also be made directly from the walk in to Clashrodney by descending the well defined grassy ridge seen on the approach (before reaching the burn). At the bottom of the ridge turn left and scramble down easy rocks just north of the first route. Climbs are described from north to south.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Schoolboy Aloholic

This lies on the first steep slab, split at half-height by a thin horizontal crack. Follow the right edge of the slab on small holds to a jug and pull onto a block. Move right to finish up the tricky thin crack.

VS 4c Trad 10m
2 Streetwise

Climb the smooth arete left of Schoolboy Alcoholic and continue over a bulge to fnish right of Glasgewian Snotter (avoiding any use of the final crack of that route).

E2 5c Trad 10m
3 Glaswegian Snotter

Start up the left-slanting shelf and climb up to reach the excellent finger crack in the top wall. There is an interesting direct start at 5a.

HS Trad 10m
4 Johnny's Dangler E1 5b Trad 12m

1.3.10. South Cove 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 57.094409, -2.077432

summary

A kilometre section of spectacular cliffs situated next to granite quarrys, the rock is an interesting mix of metamorphosed schist/gneiss and red granite. The area consists of mostly single to 2 pitch routes up to 40-50m tall. Climbs typically require a rap in and climb out approach.

approach

10mins from the carpark, recommend using the local guidebook for parking and access advice.

ethic

Trad.

1.3.10.1. Red Hole 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:

description

A large sea cave at the centre of the crag.

descent notes

Solo down the sketchy north buttress or rap in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Red Planet E4 6a Trad 50m, 2
2 Space Rats E5 6a Trad 40m, 2
3 Procrastination E5 6b Trad 40m, 2
4 Procyon E5 6b Trad 40m, 2
5 Lost in Space E6 6b Trad
6 Cracks in Reality E5 6a Trad
7 Black Sheep E5 6b Trad 40m, 2
8 Super Cracks in Reality E1 6b Trad 40m, 2
1.3.10.2. Main Face 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:

description

Large section of cliffs south of Red Hole, populated by seagulls during nesting season.

approach

Rap in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beyond The Fringe E5 6b Trad 13m
2 Lunatic Fringe E7 6c Trad 25m
3 Teetering on The Brink of Madness E5 6b Trad 20m
4 Threshold of Sanity E6 6c Trad 20m

1.4. Angus 325 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.596075, -2.855165

summary

Mostly quarried sport venues.

description

One of the highest concentration of easy-access and "easy" sport climbing venues of Scotland. Grades normally range from 5 to 7a, with a few venues offering 7b or 8a.

1.4.1. Kirrie Hill 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.679074, -2.993641

summary

South facing Sheltered crag with easy access. Sandstone.

description

Extensive venue with low grades from 4 to 6c primarily. There are a bunch of 7a and one 7b. The style is bouldery and juggy. It is advised not to climb right after a period of wet weather, as the sandstone is unstable until dry and pieces of rock are more likely to come loose.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Once parked at the Neverland Captain Hook's pirate ship play area, or at the Camera Obscura parking area, follow the path east and turn right along the wall of the cementery. Then turn left to walk under the trees to reach the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Western Wall

2 Unenforced Layoff {FR} 5a Sport 12m
3 Mushroom Heads {FR} 5a Sport 12m
4 Another Green World {FR} 6a Sport 12m
5 Spirits Drifting {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
6 Becalmed {FR} 4c Sport 12m, 7
7 Sombre Reptiles {FR} 5c Sport 11m, 7
8 On the Up {FR} 5c Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Mound over Matter {FR} 5c Sport 9m
10 Grassy Knoll {FR} 6a Sport 10m
11 Hard Labour {FR} 6a Sport 10m
12 Dogmatic {FR} 6a+ Sport 10m
13 Caned and Unable

An eliminate route of the 2 to the sides.

{FR} 6c Sport 14m
14 Paws for Thought {FR} 6b Sport 14m
15 Thorny Issue {FR} 6b+ Sport 14m
16 All Chalk, No Traction {FR} 6c Sport 14m
17 Boarding Party {FR} 6b Sport 14m
18 Dubh be Dubh {FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
19 The Kirrie (beach) Ball {FR} 6b+ Sport 14m
20 Let there be Rock {FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
21 Bon the Edge {FR} 6b+ Sport 13m
22 Whole lotta Kirrie {FR} 6b+ Sport 13m
23 Black int' Back {FR} 7a Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Central Wall

25 Pharmacist's Apprentice {FR} 6b Sport 8m, 3
26 Crystal Myth {FR} 6b Sport 8m, 5
27 Chasing Dragons {FR} 6c Sport 8m, 4
28 Tim'rous Beastie {FR} 6a Sport 8m, 3
29 Sonsie Face {FR} 6a Sport 8m, 5
30 Glaikit Folly {FR} 5a Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 Screwless {FR} 3a Sport 8m
32 Kirrie on Regardless {FR} 3c Sport 10m
33 Spent {FR} 6a Sport 10m
34 Badly Overdrawn Boy {FR} 6a+ Sport 10m
35 Joining the Debt Set {FR} 6b Sport 10m
36 On the Never Never Land {FR} 6a+ Sport 10m
37 La Plage

The obvious corner

{FR} 4a Sport 8m
38 Hill Billies {FR} 3c Sport 9m
39 The Hill has Eyes {FR} 5a Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 What Every Woman Wants {FR} 7a Sport 11m
41 Where there's Muck there's Brass {FR} 6c+ Sport 10m
42 Slim Pickins {FR} 7b Sport 10m
43 Dig Deep

WARNING!! 2020 Several large holds have fallen off at the start of the route, altering the original start. Now slightly harder to set off, but grade remains the same.

FA: 2007

{FR} 6c+ Sport 10m
44 Buffer Overflow

Climbs the first bolt of Dig Deep, the second and third bolts of Slim Pickins, then moves left to the comfortable ledge of Where there's Muck there's Brass, and finally climbs the final wall and bulge of What Every Woman Wants.

Video

Soft 7a+. Not a natural line.

7a+ Sport 14m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Ginger's Jewels {FR} 6b+ Sport 10m
46 Beat the Bulge {FR} 6b+ Sport 10m
47 Weighty Issue {FR} 6b Sport 10m
48 Gut Feeling {FR} 6b+ Sport 10m
49 Touch Too Much {FR} 7a Sport 11m
50 Xmas Xcess {FR} 6a+ Sport 11m
51 Serious Beef {FR} 6c+ Sport 10m
52 Fat of the Land {FR} 6b Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
53 Fat Boy Slims {FR} 4c Sport 10m
54 Monkey See, Monkey Do {FR} 6b+ Sport 10m
55 The Zoo

Deceiving start.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 10m

Eastern Wall

57 Walking the Plank

Warning Fixed Gear: Anchor

{FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
58 Crocodile Corner {FR} 5c Sport 12m
59 By Hook or by Crook {FR} 5a Sport 12m
60 Wings Would Help {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
61 Smee Day {FR} 5+ Sport 14m
62 Fly Boy {FR} 6b Sport 12m
63 Wrong Turn {FR} 5c Sport 12m
64 True Path {FR} 6a Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
65 Seeing the Light {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
66 Peddle Power {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
67 Done and Dusted {FR} 6b Sport 12m
68 Curtain Call {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
69 When Annabelle met Tinkerbell {FR} 6a Sport 12m
70 El Captain {FR} 5c Sport 12m
71 El Boa

Start at the bottom of the left-trending fault line. Climb up through the crack to the top, using bolts from routes either side, finishing on lower-offs of When Annabelle met Tinkerbell.

Rock is soft in crackline, may be loose.

{FR} 6a Sport 13m
72 Kirrie Sutra {FR} 5a Sport 12m
73 Awe! {FR} 6a Sport 11m
74 Stiff Little Fingers {FR} 6b Sport 11m
75 Markerhorn {FR} 4c Sport 11m
76 Gran Jurassic {FR} 5a Sport 10m
77 Ruthosaurus {FR} 3c Sport 8m
78 Stegosaurus {FR} 4a Sport 8m

1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.626232, -2.890761

summary

Hard sport climbing area near Forfar. Slow to dry after winter seepage.

description

Slow to dry after winter seepage. Most climbs well protected, short (15m) and enjoyable, although somewhat intense.

approach

Park on the road sign posted as Glecoe Cottage. Try not to block any access on approach track. Follow the road to a right turn that becomes a footpath. After a few meters, cross over the barbwire fence on the left and walk doen the crag which would be clearly in view.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Syes Don't Matter {FR} 6b Sport
2 Sye of Relief {FR} 6b+ Sport
3 Firestarter {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
4 Delivery Man {FR} 7a+ Sport
5 Start the Fire {FR} 6b+ Sport 12m
6 Digital Sclerosis {FR} 7b+ Sport
7 Digital Sclerosis there and back {FR} 7c+ Sport
8 Made to Suffer {FR} 7b+ Sport
9 Savage Amusement {FR} 7b Sport
10 Putting Shame in your Game {FR} 7c Sport
11 Manifestations

The thin wall which leads directly into the massive flake of Rat Attack.

{FR} 7b Sport
12 Rat Attack

Starts right of Manifestation and finishes on the same line.

{FR} 6c+ Sport
13 Tales of Creation {FR} 8a Sport
14 Hell Bent for Lycra {FR} 6c+ Sport 13m
15 Le Von Vacance {FR} 7a Sport
16 Half the Battle {FR} 7a Sport 14m
17 The Comfort Machine

Follow the first 3 bolts of Half the Battle, then traverse right for 2 more bolts to another anchor.

{FR} 6c+ Sport 14m
18 Off the Couch {FR} 6c Sport
19 Gravity's Rainbow {FR} 8a Sport
20 The Niche {FR} 8a+ Sport
21 Merchant of Menace {FR} 6b Sport
22 Balmashanner Buttress {FR} 4c Sport

1.4.3. Legaston Quarry 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627800, -2.670730

summary

The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long.

description

The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket. "Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

access issues

No issues. Respect the neighbours.

approach

Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim. Limited parking beside the quarry. No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

note feb 2019 - there doesn’t seem to be any parking particularly near the quarry right now - we parked along the b961 beyond the entrance to Middleton estate in the woods and walked back down, 10 mins.

1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall 14 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627809, -2.670417

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Choss

Just left of Ego Trip.

D Trad 7m
2 Grot

The name says it all

D Trad 7m
3 Ego Trip D Trad 7m
4 Flightpath

In the opinion of one ascentionist, "if this is the route on the slab just left of the severe it is never vs 4c. For starters it has E1 5a notched in to the wall which I would have thought with the lacking gear it was at least that." Personally, I thought VS 4c was fair.

VS 4c Trad 8m
5 Crowbar Crack

No surprise how this got its name! The obvious wide crack on the left hand buttress.

S Trad 8m
6 The Killing Fields {FR} 6a Sport 10m
7 Armygeddon {FR} 5+ Sport 10m
8 Driller Killer

Sadly some of the holds are chipped...

{FR} 6c Sport 10m
9 Trial by Dimension

Eliminate route, very reach dependant. Don't use any holds from "Driller Killer", and only the left most square edge of "Flight of the Mad Magician".

{FR} 7a Sport 10m
10 Flight of the Mad Magician

Fantastic wee route with cunning and strength (or a long reach) required.

{FR} 6b Sport 10m
11 Seonds Out {FR} 5c Sport 10m
12 Seconds Out (trad) E1 5b Trad 10m
13 Plod M Trad 9m
14 Contraflow VS 4b Trad 9m
1.4.3.2. Main Wall 25 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627576, -2.670482

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ratbag {FR} 6a Sport 12m
2 Hunt the Ratbag {FR} 6b Sport 12m
3 Death is the Hunter {FR} 6b+ Sport 12m
4 Sweet Revenge {FR} 6a Sport 15m
5 Sweet Revenge (trad) E1 5b Trad 15m
6 Junk Man Blues {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
7 Between the Lines {FR} 5+ Sport 12m
8 Bomber {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
9 Happy Days S Trad
10 Brian the snail {FR} 6a Sport 12m
11 Brian the snal Direct {FR} 7b Sport 12m
12 The Rocking Stone {FR} 4+ Sport 12m
13 The Rocking Stone (trad) S Trad 12m
14 The Head S Trad 12m
15 March of Dimes {FR} 6a Sport 12m
16 Shoot to Kill {FR} 5c Sport 12m
17 Overkill {FR} 6b Sport 12m
18 Desperate Measures {FR} 6b Sport 13m
19 Staircase A

Climb the obvious corner and ledge system leading up and right. Grassy and rarely climbed.

D Trad 20m
20 Fire at Will {FR} 4c Sport 13m
21 Staircase B

The Direct Start of Staircase A. Climb for 3 meters to reach the original route below its second corner.

D Trad 3m
22 Walking the Straight Line {FR} 4c Sport 13m
23 Ain't no Rolling Stone {FR} 4c Sport 13m
24 The Rack {FR} 4c Sport 14m
25 Lemon Squeezy {FR} 4c Sport 14m
1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall 11 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627460, -2.670945

description

Faces North

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Golden Shot {FR} 6b+ Sport 13m
2 Charred and Damned Desire {FR} 7b+ Sport 13m
3 The Hunting Swan {FR} 6b+ Sport 31m
4 First to Fall {FR} 6b+ Sport 13m
5 Hell's Bells {FR} 6c Sport 15m
6 Fire Down Below {FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
7 Demolition Man {FR} 5c Sport 14m
8 The Big J {FR} 6b Sport 13m
9 Rocket's Secret Machine {FR} 7a Sport 13m
10 Everything Must Go {FR} 6a Sport 13m
11 Edge of Darkness {FR} 6a Sport 16m
1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627428, -2.671223

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Purple Haze VS 4b Trad 13m
2 Night-time Sorrows VS 4c Trad 13m
3 Virgin Crack VD Trad 13m
4 Kiss of Death VS 4b Trad 15m
5 Direct Access {FR} 6c Sport 15m
6 No Remorse {FR} 6c+ Sport 15m
7 Spandex Ballet {FR} 7a+ Sport 15m
1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall) 10 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627463, -2.671370

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sign of the Scorpion

Corner climb between Babylon Buttress and Forbidden Wall. Often wet.

E1 5b Trad 18m
2 She Conceives Destruction {FR} 7a Sport 14m
3 Aerodynamic {FR} 7b Sport 14m
4 Lymphomaniac {FR} 6a Sport 13m
5 Roxanne {FR} 4 Sport 18m
6 Diss! {FR} 6b Sport 13m
7 Nymphocyte {FR} 6b Sport 13m
8 Playing with Fire {FR} 6c Sport 13m
9 Less Morts Dansant {FR} 7a Sport 13m
10 Necrosis {FR} 6a Sport 13m
1.4.3.6. Rose Wall 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.627545, -2.671419

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rootworks S Trad 14m
2 Exodus {FR} 5b Sport 12m
3 The Weasel {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
4 Remain in Light {FR} 6b+ Sport 12m
5 Caprica VS 4b Trad 14m
6 Winky VS 4c Trad 14m
7 Gary's Route S Trad 10m

1.4.4. Ley Quarry 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.525649, -3.208965

summary

Very sheltered and sunny aspect with climbing on mainly vertical quarried walls. Some reasonable bouldering on short walls at entrance, though a little sandy.

description

Most routes start from the ledge above the pond. Takes no seepage so year-round climbing is possible. Mostly artificial routes, face climbing on pockets and thin crimps.

approach

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Upper Area

2 Tree Beard

On the boulder wall at the very left, traverse from: The obvious low jug at the far left following the line of crimps below the roof jugs, traverse through crimps on long powerful lock-off's to reach a slopey undercling with the right hand. Make a difficult move to a poor crimp, then back up into a line of crimps to join the jugs above the slopey ledge traverse. No roof jugs or big ledge for feet allowed. Eliminate, but surprisingly good, powerful climbing. Sneaky heel-hook beta makes all the difference.

FA: Kris Devlin, 2012

V8 Boulder 10m
3 Tree beard (with footledge) V5 Boulder
4 Boulder wall traverse (L to R) V4 Boulder
5 Sloper lip traverse V3 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Rotweiler {FR} 4a Sport 6m
7 Scarred for life {FR} 6a Sport 7m
8 Magic Pockets {FR} 6b Sport 7m
9 Pit bull {FR} 4a Sport 7m
10 Cat scratch fever {FR} 4a Sport 7m
11 Aprils Arete {FR} 3c Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Pond Area

13 Easy Ley {FR} 6a+ Sport 10m
14 Nectar {FR} 6a+ Sport 10m
15 Dropping like flies {FR} 6b Sport 20m
16 Nirvana {FR} 7a+ Sport 11m
17 Five magics {FR} 6b+ Sport 11m
18 Footfall {FR} 6a Sport 10m
19 Not the risk business {FR} 6c Sport 11m
20 Drowning by numbers {FR} 7a Sport 12m
21 Dark moon rising {FR} 6b Sport 12m
22 Twilight zone {FR} 7a Sport 10m
23 Fishing for compliments {FR} 6b Sport 10m
24 Caught in the act {FR} 6b Sport 10m
25 Traditional imperfections {FR} 6a Sport 10m
26 Making the grade {FR} 7b Sport 8m
27 Pool of despair {FR} 7a+ Sport 9m
28 Layed to rest {FR} 7a Sport 9m
29 Barrels for laughs {FR} 7a Sport 9m
30 Haul or nothing {FR} 7b+ Sport 9m
31 Holy water {FR} 7b Sport 12m
32 Life’s a beach {FR} 6b Sport 14m
33 Fat Man Starts to Fall {FR} 6b Sport 11m
34 The Magic Thumb {FR} 7b Sport 10m
35 Carlos Fire {FR} 6b+ Sport

1.4.5. Elephant Rock 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.675753, -2.466076

summary

Seacliff of mixed igneous rock that from certain angles actually does look like an elephant!

description

Routes mainly 15-22m in length and generally high quality. Mainly best for mid 6's up to 7b. High-quality gear [ie bolts] and all routes have lower offs. Gets sun till lunchtime. Mainly tidal but some routes available at any tide. As with any north east sea cliff, especially ones with caves, the routes can be greasy in humid weather though the more open routes and those above the tidal zone are often climbable.

access issues

no issues.

approach

Park on the minor road leading to Usan just beyond a white gate. Follow the track down under the rail bridge to the small clifftop graveyard. Take the steep and slippy (after rain) path down the south side of the Rock and then go through the first cave to access the east face.

At high tides when the through cave is awash then it is possible to access the crag by walking north from the graveyard along the field edge. At the north end of the bay a path leads down the grassy slope to the pebble beach. Don't be tempted down the gully which flanks the rock to the immediate north, it is wet and very unpleasant.

This approach also gives the best view of the "elephant" !

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Can't see the F Elephant Anywhere {FR} 7a Sport 14m
2 Pas de Charge {FR} 6b Sport 16m
3 Seeing is Not Believing {FR} 6c Sport 16m
4 Tale of the Tape {FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
5 Big Lug {FR} 6b+ Sport 16m
6 Doigt Attack {FR} 7b Sport 16m
7 Viagra Falls {FR} 6c+ Sport 18m
8 The X-philes {FR} 6c Sport 20m
9 Hanger {FR} 7a Sport 18m
10 Bodysnatcher {FR} 7b+ Sport 22m
11 Alien Breed {FR} 7b+ Sport 22m
12 Shapeshifter {FR} 7a Sport 14m
13 The Ex-Pert Route {FR} 6c Sport 20m
14 Pret's Buttock {FR} 7a Sport 20m
15 Smells like Team Spirit {FR} 7b Sport 22m
16 Hannibal {FR} 7b Sport 22m
17 It's aroute Jim! {FR} 7b Sport 8m
18 Butt Ugly Martians {FR} 7b Sport 11m
19 Big Girls Blouse {FR} 7a+ Sport 14m
20 Mahoots Mon {FR} 6c+ Sport 13m
21 Beware of the Wellyfish {FR} 6b Sport 13m
22 Don't Blame Me! {FR} 6a+ Sport 20m
23 It's not my Fault! {FR} 6a Sport 20m
24 Right Wing Extremist {FR} 6c Sport 14m
25 Pig on the Rig {FR} 6c+ Sport 14m
26 The Beggars are Coming to Town {FR} 6b Sport 14m
27 Hornblower {FR} 6c Sport 14m
28 Whistleblower {FR} 6b Sport 14m

1.4.6. Rob's Reed 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.659972, -2.834082

summary

Sandstone/conglomerate crag in a sunny south facing position.

description

The majority of the routes are quick to dry and up to 15m high. There's Vertical face climbing at the right end and roofs at the left culminating in the spectacular Dirty Harrys Cave.

Dirty Harry's cave can provide a number of complex link ups. Golden Fleece and the current “King” of Robs “Let the right one in” have been recorded as good examples of what can be done here.

There is a lot of uncertainty over the rock on "The Pen” area at the moment.

Please climb there with caution.

access issues

The crag is off limits from September 1st to 31st October each year as the farmer keeps deer there and they are very aggressive during the rutting season. PLEASE do not break this ban as access is delicate, go somewhere else instead.

approach

Parking is limited (56.659433, -2.828811) and there is space for 3-4 cars only. DO NOT park in the tarmacked "turning circle" before the dirt track, as this is needed for long farm vehicles to negotiate the turning.

Anyone ignoring this please don't be surprised if you return to your car and find damage to your vehicle.

1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave 10 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.659959, -2.835427

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Po Beep {FR} 6b Sport 8m
2 The Sheep of Things to come... {FR} 6b+ Sport 11m
3 Skulldudggery {FR} 6c Sport 12m
4 Car Pit Baggers {FR} 7a+ Sport 12m
5 Climb and Punishment {FR} 7b Sport 13m
6 Dead Pull

One of the last routes on the crag to dry. A little harder than Climb and Punishment but a lot easier than Reinforcer. Original line used the “crocodiles snout" for feet only but now it has cleaned up it is possible to miss out the big roof reach perhaps making the route slightly easier. Still best climbed as original.

{FR} 7b+ Sport 14m
7 The Reinforcer {FR} 7c Sport 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 The Enforcer {FR} 7b Sport 13m
9 Dirty Harry {FR} 6b Sport 12m
10 Make my day {FR} 6a Sport 10m
1.4.6.2. Caravan 8 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.659946, -2.834985

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Good Boy Jo Jo {FR} 6b+ Sport 10m
2 Towed in the Hole {FR} 7a Sport 10m
3 Head of the Queue {FR} 6c Sport 10m
4 Snails Pace {FR} 6c Sport 12m
5 End of the Road {FR} 7a+ Sport 12m
6 Dennis Caravan {FR} 7b Sport 12m
7 Trailer Trash {FR} 7b Sport 8m
8 Totally Trashed {FR} 7b Sport 9m
1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything 7 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.659937, -2.834720

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grasping the Nettle {FR} 6c Sport 10m
2 Welcome to the Big Pocket {FR} 6c Sport 10m
3 Get Shorty! {FR} 6c+ Sport 7m
4 Short Haul {FR} 7a Sport 7m
5 Spice! {FR} 7b Sport 8m
6 Short Changed {FR} 7b Sport 8m
7 Sold Short {FR} 6c Sport 7m
1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left 10 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.659937, -2.834342

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Uninvited {FR} 7a+ Sport 13m
2 One Foot in the Door {FR} 7a Sport 12m
3 Gatecrashers Galore {FR} 7b Sport 13m
4 Grand Theft Auto {FR} 7a+ Sport 12m
5 Autobahn {FR} 6c+ Sport 12m
6 Pitscandalous (joy ride) {FR} 7c Sport 14m
7 Need For Speed {FR} 6c Sport 15m
8 Fretting over nothing {FR} 7a+ Sport 14m
9 No respect for your elders {FR} 6c+ Sport 14m
10 Pitscandly Chainsaw Massacre {FR} 7a Sport 14m
1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right 16 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.659937, -2.833934

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deer Hunter {FR} 6c+ Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Leonardo Da Pinchy {FR} 6c+ Sport 14m
3 D.i.v.o.r.c.e. {FR} 6c Sport 14m
4 Forfaraway {FR} 6b Sport 12m
5 Italian Stallion {FR} 6a Sport 14m
6 Horny deer? {FR} 5c Sport 12m
7 Rectified {FR} 7b Sport 12m
8 Squeal like a piggy {FR} 6b Sport 16m
9 Fire on the hold {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
10 Burning Desire {FR} 6c Sport 12m
11 High Voltage {FR} 6b+ Sport 14m, 7
12 Power Flower {FR} 6c Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Going through on Aggregate {FR} 7a Sport 16m
14 Beyond the Call of Nature {FR} 7a Sport 12m
15 Loose Cannons {FR} 6c Sport 16m
16 R n D Dubz {FR} 6a Sport 15m
1.4.6.6. The Pen 3 routes in Sector
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.660027, -2.832270

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spider Pig {FR} 7a+ Sport 12m
2 Swine Flew {FR} 6b Sport 12m
3 Harry Trotter {FR} 6c Sport 9m, 5

1.4.7. Arbroath 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.564995, -2.543062

description

Best described as 'adventure sport climbing', with many routes requiring the leader to top out and be seconded to retrieve quickdraws. Well bolted.

approach

Free easy parking at the beginning of the cliffs. Then walk and access each sector either on foot or by abseil.

1.4.7.1. The Rut 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.561788, -2.548812

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stag Night 5c Sport
2 Strut Yer Stuff 6b Sport 5m
3 Burning with Anxiety 6b+ Sport 6m
4 Road Rage 6a+ Sport
5 Flaked Out 5a Sport
1.4.7.2. The Platform 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.3. The Tower 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.4. Non Tidal Wave 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.5. The Promontory 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.562363, -2.547373

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Looney Tunes 5c Sport
2 Fred Flintstone 3c Sport 6m
3 Disney Look Too Bad 6a Sport
4 Cow And Chicken 3c Sport 6m
5 Top Cat 4a Sport 6m
6 A Grand Day Out 4c Sport 6m
7 The Wrong Trousers 4a Sport
8 Pinky and the Brain 4a Sport 6m
9 62 West Wallaby Street 3c Sport 6m, 2
10 The Pearls of Penelope Pitstop 6a+ Sport
11 Rugrats Revenge 5a Sport
12 Fantastic Four 3a Sport
1.4.7.7. Sector Parental Guidance 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.8. The Steppes 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.9. Sector Mini 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.563063, -2.545954

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Minitial {FR} 4a Sport 5m
2 Minitiation {FR} 4a Sport 5m
3 Minimal {FR} 4c Sport 6m
4 Minimical {FR} 6a+ Sport 6m
5 Miniquity {FR} 4c Sport 6m
6 Minitiative {FR} 4c Sport 6m
1.4.7.10. Conning Tower Inlet 1 route in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.563870, -2.544648

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Swindler's List {FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
1.4.7.11. The Haven 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.564119, -2.544443

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Haven Fun {FR} 6b Sport 15m
2 A Close Shave {FR} 6c Sport 14m
3 Shaven Haven {FR} 5 Sport 14m
4 Haven Cant Wait {FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
5 Don't Bridget Nelson {FR} 6b Sport 14m
6 Dark Sar-Chasm {FR} 5+ Sport 14m
7 Knocking' on Havens Door {FR} 7b Sport 15m
8 Vulgar Display of Power {FR} 7b+ Sport 15m
9 David's Route {FR} 5 Sport 13m
1.4.7.12. Battery Inlet 0 routes in Cliff
1.4.7.13. Doom Hole 1 route in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.564496, -2.543488

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Siren {FR} 6c Sport 20m
1.4.7.14. Grannie´s Garret 2 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.566131, -2.539830

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mushroom Treatment {FR} 6b Sport 14m
2 Satan's Serenade {FR} 6b+ Sport 14m
1.4.7.15. The Deil´s Heid 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.566853, -2.538491

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Between the Deil and the Deap Blue Sea {FR} 6c Sport 15m
2 The Heidmaster 7a+ Sport 14m
3 Deil's Heid Route {FR} 5+ Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
E Easy Arete Trad 10m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
M Back Passage Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Cornflake Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Creased Slab Trad 10m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
The Slant Trad 20m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Plod Trad 9m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
D Middle Muddle Groove Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Flying Buttress, Right Side Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Rice Crispie Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Snotty Nose Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
The Groove Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
The Clan Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Black Hole Trad 15m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Little Green Man Trad 6m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Jug Wall Trad 10m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Torn Trad 12m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
Choss Trad 7m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Ego Trip Trad 7m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Grot Trad 7m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Staircase A Trad 20m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Staircase B Trad 3m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
3a Screwless Sport 8m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Fantastic Four Sport 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
VD Solo Wall Trad 10m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
The Weem Trad 10m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
The Wobble Trad 10m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Graffiti Wall Trad 10m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
Blocky Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Dirty Old Man Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
East Side Story Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Flying Buttress, Left Side Trad 10m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
The Lum Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Blockbuster Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Shredded Wheat Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Slab and Tickle Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Narrow Chimney Trad 8m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Sea Link Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Findlater Rib Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
The Skunk Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
The Shrimp Trad 5m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Buckies Trad 5m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Cockles Trad 6m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Polaris Trad 15m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Petite Deidre Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Chisel Chimney Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
Robb's Revenge Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
Whizzer Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
Virgin Crack Trad 13m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
3c Hill Billies Sport 9m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Kirrie on Regardless Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Ruthosaurus Sport 8m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Aprils Arete Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
62 West Wallaby Street Sport 6m, 2 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
Cow And Chicken Sport 6m 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
Fred Flintstone Sport 6m 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
4a La Plage Sport 8m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Stegosaurus Sport 8m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Cat scratch fever Sport 7m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Pit bull Sport 7m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Rotweiler Sport 6m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Pinky and the Brain Sport 6m 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
The Wrong Trousers Sport 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
Top Cat Sport 6m 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
Minitial Sport 5m 1.4.7.9. Sector Mini
Minitiation Sport 5m 1.4.7.9. Sector Mini
4 Roxanne Sport 18m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
4b Cinder Rose Sport 18m, 8 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
S 4b Slimline Chimney Trad 6m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
Bladder Wrack Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Mousehole Trad 5m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Friend Trad 5m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
S Bing-Bong Trad 8m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Tom's Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
Cutty Sark Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Doubtless Wall Trad 10m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Lumside Crack Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Staircase Crack Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Blockproof Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Bombproof Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Doddle Diedre Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Gorse Route Trad 10m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Sunshine Groove Trad 8m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Sunshine Recess Trad 4m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Ramp Route Trad 8m 1.1.1.10. Sentinel Stack
Vein Attraction Trad 8m 1.1.1.10. Sentinel Stack
Cullen Chimney Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
The Skink Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Greenpeace Trad 10m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Greenvoe Trad 12m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Black Pearl Trad 5m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Pathetique Boulder 3m 1.1.2.6. Path Wall
Jam Crack Trad 8m 1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls
Spiracle Trad 10m 1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls
The Clasper Trad 8m 1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls
Albatross Trad 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Bird's Nest Route Trad 20m 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Constellation Trad 15m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Corbett's Crack Trad 15m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Mac's Route Trad 20m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Pipeyard Blues Trad 15m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Medusa Trad 20m 1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab
The Hairline Trad 10m 1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab
Quick Corner Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
Gristwood's Gutties Trad 6m 1.3.9.4. The Waterfall Climbs
Crowbar Crack Trad 8m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Happy Days Trad 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
The Head Trad 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
The Rocking Stone (trad) Trad 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Gary's Route Trad 10m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
Rootworks Trad 14m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
4c Becalmed Sport 12m, 7 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Fat Boy Slims Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Markerhorn Sport 11m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Balmashanner Buttress Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Ain't no Rolling Stone Sport 13m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Fire at Will Sport 13m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Lemon Squeezy Sport 14m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
The Rack Sport 14m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Walking the Straight Line Sport 13m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
A Grand Day Out Sport 6m 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
Minimal Sport 6m 1.4.7.9. Sector Mini
Miniquity Sport 6m 1.4.7.9. Sector Mini
Minitiative Sport 6m 1.4.7.9. Sector Mini
4+ The Rocking Stone Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
HS 4a Beastie's Wall Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
HS 4b Jugular Wall Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Border Crossing Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Sunset Song Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Sunshine Extra Trad 6m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Jutting Flake Crack Trad 8m 1.1.1.10. Sentinel Stack
Sea Mouse Trad 6m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Sea Urchin Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Bird's Nest Route - Direct Finish Trad 20m 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
HS Mud, Sweat and Tears Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Gnib-Gnob Trad 8m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Sunshine Roof Trad 10m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Fisherman's Tail Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Anti-Matter Trad 12m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Brittle Star Trad 12m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Lone Star Trad 8m 1.1.2.5. West Face
The Garden path Trad 10m 1.1.2.6. Path Wall
The Weight Trad 20m 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Eastern Girdle Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Stiletto Trad 15m 1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab
Glaswegian Snotter Trad 10m 1.3.9.5. Cairnrobin Point
5a By Hook or by Crook Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Glaikit Folly Sport 8m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Gran Jurassic Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Kirrie Sutra Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Mushroom Heads Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
The Hill has Eyes Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Unenforced Layoff Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Flaked Out Sport 1.4.7.1. The Rut
Rugrats Revenge Sport 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
5 David's Route Sport 13m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
Shaven Haven Sport 14m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
5b Girdle traverse Traverse 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Unnamed Sport 9m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Placa del sol Sport 25m, 12 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Sunshine Slab Sport 26m, 11 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Wamy Uppy Sport 10m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Exodus Sport 12m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
VS 4b Centre Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Fracture Face Trad 12m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
Butcher's Broom Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Poacher Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Cullen Crack Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Mussels Trad 8m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Cleavage Trad 25m 1.1.3.1. West face
Off The Leash Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Thatcher's Crack Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Intrusion Trad 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Epistrophe Trad 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Shallow Diedre Trad 10m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
The Bridge Trad 10m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Z Bend Trad 15m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Capitol Wall Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
Senate Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
Contraflow Trad 9m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Kiss of Death Trad 15m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
Purple Haze Trad 13m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
Caprica Trad 14m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
VS 4c Route One Trad 7m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Kneewrecker Chimney Trad 20m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Borderline Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Coach Bolt Crack Trad 10m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Flying Groove Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Footloose Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Huggy Bear Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Green Crack Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Old Peg Groove Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Stegosaurus Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Expander's Crack Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Sunshine Crack Trad 6m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Dennis Trad 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Spread the Donkey Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Sea Pink Trad 10m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
The Angry Anchovy Trad 8m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Fallen Star Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Moray Eel Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
The White Dwarf Trad 12m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Shagreen Trad 10m 1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls
The Snout Trad 10m 1.1.3.2. The Landward Walls
Girsie Crack Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Per Rectum Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Crack-a-Gow-Gow Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
The Vertical Smile Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Gowing Nowhere Trad 12m 1.1.4.5. Stone Steps Area
Bones Corner Trad 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Cold Turkey Trad 9m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Free Fall Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Upper Eastern Girdle Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Chester Trad 15m 1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab
Oaf Trad 10m 1.3.9.4. The Waterfall Climbs
The Nose Trad 5m 1.3.9.4. The Waterfall Climbs
Schoolboy Aloholic Trad 10m 1.3.9.5. Cairnrobin Point
Flightpath Trad 8m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Night-time Sorrows Trad 13m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
Winky Trad 14m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
4C The Pedestal Boulder 1.1.1.10. Sentinel Stack
5c Eany Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Meany Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Gorse Blossom Sport 18m, 9 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Weather Beaten Sport 27m, 12 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Crocodile Corner Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
El Captain Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Mound over Matter Sport 9m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
On the Up Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Sombre Reptiles Sport 11m, 7 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Wrong Turn Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Seonds Out Sport 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Shoot to Kill Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Demolition Man Sport 14m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Horny deer? Sport 12m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Stag Night Sport 1.4.7.1. The Rut
Looney Tunes Sport 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
5+ Smee Day Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Armygeddon Sport 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Between the Lines Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Dark Sar-Chasm Sport 14m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
Deil's Heid Route Sport 20m 1.4.7.15. The Deil´s Heid
HVS 4b Spare Rib Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
HS 5a Limpet Flakes Trad 8m 1.1.2.5. West Face
HVS 4c Ginger Snap Trad 7m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Pegless Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Cow's Crack Trad 12m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
5a Ordinary Route Unknown 25m 1.3.8. Craig Stirling
HVS 5a Right Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Triangular Groove Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Shadow Flake Trad 10m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Diedre of Doubt Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
The Artful Dodger Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Appletiser Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Bullworker Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Sandstone Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
On the Beach Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Sunny Side Up Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
That Is The Question Trad 8m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Arch Enemy Trad 8m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Bouillabaisse Trad 12m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Capekyle Trad 15m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Fat Chick Trad 15m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Fading Star Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Northern logic Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Hanging Pawn Trad 15m 1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle
Material Advantage Trad 15m 1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle
Per Guano ad Astra Trad 10m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Annie Hall Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Juggernaut Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Past Imperfect Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Back and Foot Disease Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Battle of the Bulge Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Celebrate the Bullet Trad 12m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
The Beachboys Trad 10m 1.1.4.6. Beach Wall
Scurry Trad 1.2.1. Meackie Point
The Band of Hope Trad 10m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
The Bridge - Right Hand Variation Trad 15m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Batty Bat Trad 80m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Hissing Sid Trad 75m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
The Lost World Trad 40m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Clean Round the Bend Trad 15m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Grand Diedre Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Have One On Me Trad 20m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
VS 5a Black Roof Trad 10m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Middle Muddle Direct Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Bank Vole Trad 6m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Left Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Yoohah Trad 10m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Cascade Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Cullenary Delight Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Callous Crayfish Trad 8m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Gorgon Trad 15m 1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab
Serpent Trad 20m 1.3.9.2. The Pink Slab
Capitol Wall - Direct Start Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
6a Mo Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
The Dregs Sport 8m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Laurel Sport 18m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Surco del sol Sport 22m, 11 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Another Green World Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Awe! Sport 11m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
El Boa Sport 13m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Grassy Knoll Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Hard Labour Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Sonsie Face Sport 8m, 5 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Spent Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Tim'rous Beastie Sport 8m, 3 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
True Path Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
When Annabelle met Tinkerbell Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
The Killing Fields Sport 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Brian the snail Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
March of Dimes Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Ratbag Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Sweet Revenge Sport 15m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Edge of Darkness Sport 16m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Everything Must Go Sport 13m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Lymphomaniac Sport 13m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Necrosis Sport 13m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Footfall Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Scarred for life Sport 7m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Traditional imperfections Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
It's not my Fault! Sport 20m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Make my day Sport 10m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Italian Stallion Sport 14m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
R n D Dubz Sport 15m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Disney Look Too Bad Sport 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
6a+ Crossroads Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Hardy Sport 18m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Soft rock Cafe Sport 10m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Badly Overdrawn Boy Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Curtain Call Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Dogmatic Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Dubh be Dubh Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Let there be Rock Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
On the Never Never Land Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Peddle Power Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Seeing the Light Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Spirits Drifting Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
The Zoo Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Walking the Plank Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Wings Would Help Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Xmas Xcess Sport 11m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Firestarter Sport 12m 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Bomber Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Junk Man Blues Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Fire Down Below Sport 15m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
The Weasel Sport 12m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
Easy Ley Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Nectar Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Don't Blame Me! Sport 20m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Tale of the Tape Sport 15m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Fire on the hold Sport 12m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Road Rage Sport 1.4.7.1. The Rut
The Pearls of Penelope Pitstop Sport 1.4.7.6. Sector Cartoon
Minimical Sport 6m 1.4.7.9. Sector Mini
Swindler's List Sport 15m 1.4.7.10. Conning Tower Inlet
Haven Cant Wait Sport 14m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
E1 5a Flakey Wall Trad 8m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Snap Happy Trad 15m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Hammerhead Trad 25m 1.1.3.1. West face
Sleepy Hollow Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Synthetic Pathway Trad 15m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
The Gowp Trad 15m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Death Cap Trad 35m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Earnsheugh Ridge Trad 75m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Davidson´s Delight Trad 20m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Incontinence Crack Trad 15m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Depth Charge Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Jug Fest Trad 20m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
6b Megolodon 1st lower off Sport 10m 1.3.1. The Fin
Red Bellied Sport 10m 1.3.1. The Fin
Rankin's Rain Games Sport 18m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Boarding Party Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Crystal Myth Sport 8m, 5 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Done and Dusted Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Fat of the Land Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Fly Boy Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Joining the Debt Set Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Paws for Thought Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Pharmacist's Apprentice Sport 8m, 3 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Stiff Little Fingers Sport 11m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Weighty Issue Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Merchant of Menace Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Syes Don't Matter Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Flight of the Mad Magician Sport 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Desperate Measures Sport 13m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Hunt the Ratbag Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Overkill Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
The Big J Sport 13m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Diss! Sport 13m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Nymphocyte Sport 13m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Caught in the act Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Dark moon rising Sport 12m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Dropping like flies Sport 20m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Fat Man Starts to Fall Sport 11m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Fishing for compliments Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Life’s a beach Sport 14m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Magic Pockets Sport 7m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Beware of the Wellyfish Sport 13m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Pas de Charge Sport 16m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
The Beggars are Coming to Town Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Whistleblower Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Dirty Harry Sport 12m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Little Po Beep Sport 8m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Forfaraway Sport 12m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Squeal like a piggy Sport 16m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Swine Flew Sport 12m 1.4.6.6. The Pen
Strut Yer Stuff Sport 5m 1.4.7.1. The Rut
Don't Bridget Nelson Sport 14m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
Haven Fun Sport 15m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
Mushroom Treatment Sport 14m 1.4.7.14. Grannie´s Garret
HS 5b Pathology Trad 8m 1.1.2.6. Path Wall
VS 5b Trapeze Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
HVS 5b The Gripper Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Thud Trad 10m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Tall Order Trad 12m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
Sunshine Trad 8m 1.1.1.9. Sunshine Wall
Doc's Crack Trad 6m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Daisy Cutter Trad 10m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Rising Star Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Star Struck Trad 12m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Creepie Crawlie Trad 12m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Billy the Kid Trad 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Forgotten Trad 13m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
E1 5b Orange Peel Trad 7m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Dave's Dilemma Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Easy Over Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
No Hands Crack Trad 8m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Sandy Crack Trad 8m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
The Central Belt Trad 30m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
The Last Drop Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Foe Trad 6m 1.1.2.2. The Tidal Zone
Sea Anenome Trad 10m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Dark Star Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
The Cull Trad 8m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Endgame Trad 15m 1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle
Fianchetto Trad 15m 1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle
Mating Net Trad 15m 1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle
Loan Shark Trad 25m 1.1.3.1. West face
Shark's Back Trad 25m 1.1.3.1. West face
Banana Republic Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Protection Racket Trad 12m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Reach or Beach Trad 10m 1.1.4.6. Beach Wall
Flurry Trad 15m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
The Collector Trad 15m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
The Killing Moon Trad 15m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
The Water Margin Trad 12m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
Knacker's Crack Trad 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Strawclutchers Wall Trad 10m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Mysterious Journey Trad 65m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Cruel Sea Trad 10m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Left Right and Centre Trad 9m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Dosmestos Trad 20m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Found Trad 13m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
Haar Hole Trad 12m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
Birthday Treat Trad 20m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Grimace Trad 10m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Yellow Peril Trad 10m 1.3.9.4. The Waterfall Climbs
Johnny's Dangler Trad 12m 1.3.9.5. Cairnrobin Point
Seconds Out (trad) Trad 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Sweet Revenge (trad) Trad 15m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Sign of the Scorpion Trad 18m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
6b+ Cheeky Madam Sport 15m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
The League of Whingers Sport 18m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Trouble Monkey Variation Sport 15m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Fun Lovin' Criminals Sport 16m, 10 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Incandescent Sport 18m, 9 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Beat the Bulge Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Bon the Edge Sport 13m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Ginger's Jewels Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Gut Feeling Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Monkey See, Monkey Do Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
The Kirrie (beach) Ball Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Thorny Issue Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Whole lotta Kirrie Sport 13m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Start the Fire Sport 12m 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Sye of Relief Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Death is the Hunter Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
First to Fall Sport 13m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
The Golden Shot Sport 13m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
The Hunting Swan Sport 31m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Remain in Light Sport 12m 1.4.3.6. Rose Wall
Carlos Fire Sport 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Five magics Sport 11m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Big Lug Sport 16m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
The Sheep of Things to come... Sport 11m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Good Boy Jo Jo Sport 10m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
High Voltage Sport 14m, 7 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Burning with Anxiety Sport 6m 1.4.7.1. The Rut
Satan's Serenade Sport 14m 1.4.7.14. Grannie´s Garret
E2 5a Drone Warfare Trad 10m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
E2 5b Route Two Trad 8m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
The Beast Trad 10m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Noddy Machine Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Captain Birdseye Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Diedre of Double Doubt Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Doubting Thomas Trad 12m 1.1.1.6. Doubt Wall
Sea Snake Trad 10m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
Southern Cross Trad 12m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Remembrance Sunday Trad 15m 1.1.2.7. The Pinnacle
Primitive Thoughts About Modern Girls Trad 15m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
The Sandbagger Trad 10m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Family Affair Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Orphan Annie Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
The Growl Trad 12m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Impending Doom Trad 20m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
Pterodactyl Trad 45m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Nappy Rash Trad 15m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Weakling Wall Trad 20m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
The Fire Inside Trad 12m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
C.I.D. Wall Trad 12m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
The Fuzz Trad 12m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
The Secret Policeman's Other Ball Trad 12m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Electric Chair Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Searcher Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Grimble Trad 10m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Stone Roses Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
5C Central Face Low Level Traverse Boulder 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Headbanger Boulder 6m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Daisy Link Boulder 5m 1.1.2.3. Gully Wall
6c Barramundi Sport 15m 1.3.1. The Fin
Aches in Provence Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Little Creatures Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Belay Boy Sport 11m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Foam Party (sport) Sport 18m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Technicolor Sport 18m, 10 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Working Lunch Sport 10m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
All Chalk, No Traction Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Caned and Unable Sport 14m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Chasing Dragons Sport 8m, 4 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Off the Couch Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Driller Killer Sport 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Hell's Bells Sport 15m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Direct Access Sport 15m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
Playing with Fire Sport 13m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Not the risk business Sport 11m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Hornblower Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Right Wing Extremist Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Seeing is Not Believing Sport 16m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
The Ex-Pert Route Sport 20m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
The X-philes Sport 20m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Skulldudggery Sport 12m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Head of the Queue Sport 10m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Snails Pace Sport 12m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Grasping the Nettle Sport 10m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
Sold Short Sport 7m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
Welcome to the Big Pocket Sport 10m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
Need For Speed Sport 15m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Burning Desire Sport 12m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
D.i.v.o.r.c.e. Sport 14m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Loose Cannons Sport 16m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Power Flower Sport 15m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Harry Trotter Sport 9m, 5 1.4.6.6. The Pen
A Close Shave Sport 14m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
The Siren Sport 20m 1.4.7.13. Doom Hole
Between the Deil and the Deap Blue Sea Sport 15m 1.4.7.15. The Deil´s Heid
HVS 5c Gibbon Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
E1 5c Pigmy Shrew Trad 6m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Pretty Flamingo Trad 6m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
Gorilla Trad 12m 1.1.1.7. Cornflake Walls
Eliminate Wall Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Sunny Side Direct Trad 10m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Apathy Trad 8m 1.1.2.6. Path Wall
Horny Beast Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
Legover Wall Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
The Bridge - Talisman Trad 15m 1.2.3. Meikle Partans
Black Mass Trad 10m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
E2 5c King Swing Trad 8m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Skelp Trad 8m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Gutbuster Trad 20m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Legbuster Trad 20m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Jaded Arete Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Orange Ape Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
The Prophet Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Brain Warp Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Fourth Dimension Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Holy Ground Trad 12m 1.1.2.1. Embankment 1 & 2
Western Star Trad 10m 1.1.2.4. Star Zone
Cat's Claws Trad 10m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Dancing in the Dark Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Sandanista Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Stress Relief Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Legend Trad 15m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
The Knacker's Yard Trad 1.2.2. Fulmar Wall
Bats Belfry Trad 35m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Coup de Grace Trad 10m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Sprunt's Route Trad 10m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
The Boxer Trad 10m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Lost Trad 12m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
Streetwise Trad 10m 1.3.9.5. Cairnrobin Point
6A Double Stretch Boulder 6m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
6c+ Sting-Yoshi Sport 25m 1.3.1. The Fin
Automatic Sport 8m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
The Dark Side Sport 7m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Monochrome Sport 18m, 8 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
Dig Deep Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Serious Beef Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Where there's Muck there's Brass Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Hell Bent for Lycra Sport 13m 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Rat Attack Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
The Comfort Machine Sport 14m 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
No Remorse Sport 15m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
Mahoots Mon Sport 13m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Pig on the Rig Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Viagra Falls Sport 18m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Get Shorty! Sport 7m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
Autobahn Sport 12m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
No respect for your elders Sport 14m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Deer Hunter Sport 14m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Leonardo Da Pinchy Sport 14m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
E3 5b Sea Witch Trad 12m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Fingers Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Raging Bull Trad 10m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Sea Cat Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
E3 5c I-Ching Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Hacuna Mattata Trad 30m 1.1.4.1. Primrose Bay
Invisible Sun Trad 10m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Shear Fear Trad 12m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Private Dancer Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Squadrone Muerte Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
The Domino Eeffect Trad 12m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Blinkered Bat Trad 25m 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Weird Sister Trad 40m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Rock Lobster Trad 15m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Yipeekaiae Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Clockwork Cat Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Clockwork Rat Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Depth Charge Direct Start Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Jeux Sans Frontiers Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
The Reach Around Trad 20m 1.3.8.2. East Buttress
Blind Faith Trad 20m 1.3.9.1. The Causeway Climbs
Sphincter Cannon Trad 10m 1.3.9.3. Central Buttress
V3 Sloper lip traverse Boulder 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
7a Yoshi Sport 25m 1.3.1. The Fin
Traverse of the Cods Sport 12m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Morrison's Missed Adventure Sport 18m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Black int' Back Sport 12m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Touch Too Much Sport 11m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
What Every Woman Wants Sport 11m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Half the Battle Sport 14m 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Le Von Vacance Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Trial by Dimension Sport 10m 1.4.3.1. Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
Rocket's Secret Machine Sport 13m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Less Morts Dansant Sport 13m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
She Conceives Destruction Sport 14m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Barrels for laughs Sport 9m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Drowning by numbers Sport 12m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Layed to rest Sport 9m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Twilight zone Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Can't see the F Elephant Anywhere Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Hanger Sport 18m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Pret's Buttock Sport 20m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Shapeshifter Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Towed in the Hole Sport 10m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Short Haul Sport 7m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
One Foot in the Door Sport 12m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Pitscandly Chainsaw Massacre Sport 14m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Beyond the Call of Nature Sport 12m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Going through on Aggregate Sport 16m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
6B Bay Watch Boulder 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Jerker Boulder 6m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
E2 6a Hernia Corner Trad 15m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Yorkshire Grip Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
The Nest Trad 10m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
E4 5c Le Crunch Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Foam Party (trad) Trad 18m 1.3.7. Yellow Crag
E3 6a Thumper Trad 8m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Giraffe Corner Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Jewels Underground Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Pipefish Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Seal's Crack Trad 10m 1.1.2.5. West Face
Urban Gorilla Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Trial of Tears Trad 15m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
Sair Fecht Trad 12m 1.3.3. Floors Craig
Coalition Trad 12m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
E4 6a Hickory Dickory Dock Trad 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Aesthetic Ape Trad 20m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Africa Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Bat's Wall Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Monkey Mafia Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Archibold Trad 10m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
The Sandman Trad 10m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Bottle Dungeon Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Slyme Crime Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
The Changeling Trad 15m 1.2.1. Meackie Point
Death Rattle Roofs Trad 55m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Grimly Fiendish Trad 35m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Tyrannosaurus Wrecks Trad 30m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Haar Attack Trad 12m 1.3.6. Brown Band Crag
Red Planet Trad 50m, 2 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
V4 Boulder wall traverse (L to R) Boulder 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
7a+ Barracuda Sport 15m 1.3.1. The Fin
Trouble Monkey Sport 15m 1.3.4.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Buffer Overflow Sport 14m, 6 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Delivery Man Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Spandex Ballet Sport 15m 1.4.3.4. Forbidden Buttress
Nirvana Sport 11m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Pool of despair Sport 9m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Big Girls Blouse Sport 14m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Car Pit Baggers Sport 12m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
End of the Road Sport 12m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Fretting over nothing Sport 14m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Grand Theft Auto Sport 12m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
The Uninvited Sport 13m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Spider Pig Sport 12m 1.4.6.6. The Pen
The Heidmaster Sport 14m 1.4.7.15. The Deil´s Heid
7b Dorado Cop-Out Sport 15m 1.3.1. The Fin
Stingray Sport 15m 1.3.1. The Fin
Deadheads Sport 6m 1.3.4.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Slim Pickins Sport 10m 1.4.1. Kirrie Hill
Manifestations Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Savage Amusement Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Brian the snal Direct Sport 12m 1.4.3.2. Main Wall
Aerodynamic Sport 14m 1.4.3.5. Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
Holy water Sport 12m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Making the grade Sport 8m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
The Magic Thumb Sport 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Butt Ugly Martians Sport 11m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Doigt Attack Sport 16m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Hannibal Sport 22m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
It's aroute Jim! Sport 8m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Smells like Team Spirit Sport 22m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Climb and Punishment Sport 13m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
The Enforcer Sport 13m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Dennis Caravan Sport 12m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Totally Trashed Sport 9m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Trailer Trash Sport 8m 1.4.6.2. Caravan
Short Changed Sport 8m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
Spice! Sport 8m 1.4.6.3. Size isn't Everything
Gatecrashers Galore Sport 13m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
Rectified Sport 12m 1.4.6.5. Main Wall Right
Knocking' on Havens Door Sport 15m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
V5 Tree beard (with footledge) Boulder 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
E5 Cthulu Unknown 65m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
E5 6a Power Struggle Trad 10m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Tangerine Scream Trad 8m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Bat Attack Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
The Prow Trad 12m 1.1.1.5. The Stack
Primal Scream Trad 12m 1.1.4.2. Honeycomb Wall
Ichthyosaurus Trad 30m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Necromancer Trad 40m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Prehistoric Monster Trad 60m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Thugosaurus Direct Trad 50m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Pinch of Salt Trad 15m 1.3.5. Brown Crag
Cracks in Reality Trad 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
Space Rats Trad 40m, 2 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
7b+ Dorado Sport 15m 1.3.1. The Fin
Dorado-Ray Sport 15m 1.3.1. The Fin
Yoshi Extension Sport 30m 1.3.1. The Fin
Digital Sclerosis Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Made to Suffer Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Charred and Damned Desire Sport 13m 1.4.3.3. Rotten Wall
Haul or nothing Sport 9m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
Alien Breed Sport 22m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Bodysnatcher Sport 22m 1.4.5. Elephant Rock
Dead Pull Sport 14m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Vulgar Display of Power Sport 15m 1.4.7.11. The Haven
E1 6b Super Cracks in Reality Trad 40m, 2 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
E2 6b Drainpipe Wall Trad 7m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
E3 6b Sandy Volestrangler Trad 12m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Bottomless Chimney Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
E4 6b Beserker Trad 10m 1.1.1.1. Orange Wall Area
Palmist Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
E5 6b Surf Nazis Must Die Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Arch Wall Trad 12m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
Fascist Octopus Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Running Wild Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Yertezoot Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Black Sheep Trad 40m, 2 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
Procrastination Trad 40m, 2 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
Procyon Trad 40m, 2 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
Beyond The Fringe Trad 13m 1.3.10.2. Main Face
Teetering on The Brink of Madness Trad 20m 1.3.10.2. Main Face
7c Mahi Mahi Sport 16m 1.3.1. The Fin
Mako Sport 20m 1.3.1. The Fin
Putting Shame in your Game Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
The Reinforcer Sport 13m 1.4.6.1. Dirty Harrys Cave
Pitscandalous (joy ride) Sport 14m 1.4.6.4. Main Wall Left
E6 6a Thugosaurus Trad 50m, 2 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Yahoochie Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
E6 6b Anal Stretch Trad 15m 1.1.1.2. Gutbuster Bay Area
Grim Spectre Trad 50m, 3 1.3.2. Earnsheugh
Running Wild - Yertezoot Link Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Yassassin Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Yassassin - Yahoochie Link Trad 20m 1.3.8.1. West Buttress
Lost in Space Trad 1.3.10.1. Red Hole
7c+ Digital Sclerosis there and back Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
8a Free Willy Sport 20m 1.3.1. The Fin
Killer Wail Sport 25m 1.3.1. The Fin
Moby Dick Sport 30m, 2 1.3.1. The Fin
Gravity's Rainbow Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
Tales of Creation Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
E5 6c Ultra Radical Trad 10m 1.1.1.4. Tapered Wall
E6 6c Statutory Ape Trad 15m 1.1.1.3. Prophet Walls
Roof Crack Trad 15m 1.1.4.3. Boulders Bay
Threshold of Sanity Trad 20m 1.3.10.2. Main Face
V8 Tree Beard Boulder 10m 1.4.4. Ley Quarry
E7 6c Lunatic Fringe Trad 25m 1.3.10.2. Main Face
8a+ Megolodon Sport 25m, 2 1.3.1. The Fin
Moby Killer Sport 25m, 2 1.3.1. The Fin
The Niche Sport 1.4.2. Balmashanner Quarry
8b Killer Instinct Sport 25m 1.3.1. The Fin
8b+ Anaconda Sport 25m 1.3.1. The Fin
? Paul Tax Trad 10m 1.1.4.4. Stack Bay
A3 Puppet On A String Trad 22m 1.1.1.8. Arch Wall
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