Showing all 70 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Pivot Point | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pivot Point | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Mon 1st May 2023 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Mt. Frances | |||||||
Class 3/4 | East Ridge - with Adam Flower | 1100m | |||||
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Ruth Gorge Mooses Tooth | |||||||
WI4 M4 V | ★★★ Ham And Eggs - with Adam Flower | 970m | |||||
Hearing whispers that two other teams were starting early (and being thoroughly displeased with yesterday's iceblock shower), we had the ultimate Think Tank moment and decided to leave at 8pm.
For Adam, who is more used to both alpine climbing and sleep deprivation, this may have worked, but for me it was the start of a night of unravelling. Despite a strong start in perfect connies, the Donkey Boys were forced into a scary M4 variant due to spindrift on the ice crux. This lost us time, and fighting against the clock of sleep, my pace slowed and my eating stopped. At best I estimate to have consumed 900cals and 700mL of water on the way up. Having reached the col, this Donkey was beyond buggered and both Boys turned to rap the route in daylight. |
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WI5 M5/6 V | ★★★ Shaken Not Stirred - with Adam Flower | 900m | |||||
2am start under the northern lights illuminating the SE face of Denali and bouncing off the Ruth. Soon, the sunrise and simulblocks brought us to the route's crux, which Adam dispatched with style in desperately dry conditions.
Nick an JT met us there from above, and after hearing their description of deep, faceted wallowing to the col, we all agreed on going down. After a few "wish our ropes were 10m longer" moments, all 4 boys were swimming down afternoon slush towards lunch and a snooz. |
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Wed 26th Jun 2019 - Hatcher's Pass | |||||||
Archangel Valley The Jungle Gym | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Highway to Hell - with Melissa | 70m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 19th Jun 2019 - Hatcher's Pass | |||||||
Archangel Valley The Monolith | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Inside Right - with Melissa | ★ Good | |||||
5.7 | The Slot - with Melissa | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Zig-Zag - with Melissa | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sunshine Ridge | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Sunshine Ridge - with Melissa | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sunshine Ridge | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Sex on the Rocks - with Melissa | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | Exotic Dancer - with Melissa | ★ Good | |||||
Mon 27th May 2019 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sunshine Ridge | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Road Warrior - with Melissa | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.9 | ★ May Day - with Melissa | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 23rd May 2019 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Tree Ft Area Glak's Place | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Unknown - with Melissa, Pat | 50m | |||||
Decepticlips - with Melissa, Pat | 4 | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Unknown 2 - with Melissa, Pat | 30m | |||||
5.6 | ★ Ilya's 8 - with Melissa, Pat | 21m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Sightless Monkey - with Melissa, Pat | 21m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2017 - Wiener Lake | |||||||
The Amphitheatre | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ First Amendment | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 23rd May 2017 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Mt. Hunter | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ North Buttress | 1900m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 20th May 2016 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Denali | |||||||
Class 3 to Class 4 | ★★★ West Buttress | 4000m | |||||
Thu 16th Jul 2015 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sky Pilot | |||||||
A3 | ★★★ Auto Pilot - with solo first ascent in 1993 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Pretty cool aid route that uses hooks heads and tied off pins to traverse an almost horizontal roof to some ratty old button head bolts at the top. One may want to beef up rap anchor at top. A3 grade based on placement security but but it is pretty close to the ground and decking out is quite possible.
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Apr 2015 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Ruth Gorge Mooses Tooth | |||||||
6a M7 6a M7 | Bird of Prey - with Dani Arnold | 1500m | |||||
Mon 23rd Jun 2014 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Little Switzerland (Pika Glacier) | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The lost marsupial | 400m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 14th Jun 2014 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Little Switzerland (Pika Glacier) | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Middle Troll South Face | 400m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 21st Jun 2013 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Little Switzerland (Pika Glacier) | |||||||
5.10d 5.10+ | ★★★ Free Radical | 400m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 20th Jun 2013 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Little Switzerland (Pika Glacier) | |||||||
5.10a | Gargoyle buttress | 700m | |||||
Thu 20th Jun 2013 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Ruth Gorge The Stump | |||||||
5.11a 5.11 | ★★★ Goldfinger | 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 6th Jun 2013 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Denali | |||||||
Class 3 to Class 4 | ★★★ West Buttress | 4000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 27th Aug 2012 - The Arrigetch Peaks | |||||||
Shot/Battleship/Emmons Ridge Shot Tower | |||||||
5.9 A2 5.9 A2 IV | West Ridge of Shot Tower - with john | 490m | Crap | ||||
TEst
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Sun 13th May 2012 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Ruth Gorge Mooses Tooth | |||||||
WI5 M5/6 V | ★★★ Shaken Not Stirred | 900m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
WI4 M4 V | ★★★ Ham And Eggs | 970m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 22nd May 2010 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Denali | |||||||
Class 3 to Class 4 | ★★★ West Buttress | 4000m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 1st May 2006 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Upper Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.10a 5.10a X | Hocus Pocus | ★ Good | |||||
5.8 | Mumbo Jumbo | Average | |||||
5.10a 5.10a X | Hocus Pocus | Average | |||||
Mon 1st May 2006 - Seward Highway | |||||||
King Dome | |||||||
5.9 | Kingdom Reformed | Average | |||||
Mon 1st May 2006 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Twinkle Toes | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Twinkle Toes | ||||||
Fri 14th Apr 2006 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Goat's Head Soup | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ No Whiners | ★★ Very Good | |||||
This is a good climb. Use 24" slings on the first two bolts to reduce rope drag
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5.10b | ★ Goat's Head Soup | ★ Good | |||||
Nice little crack half way up makes the climb.
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Fri 1st Jul 2005 - Hatcher's Pass | |||||||
Archangel Valley The Monolith | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Center Slab Left | ★ Good | |||||
I went a bought a cam just so I could climb this fun one without borrowing gear.
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Sat 2nd Apr 2005 - Seward Highway | |||||||
King Dome | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Wild Kingdom | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 11th Jun 2004 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.7 | Face in the Woods | ||||||
5.10c | Your Future | ||||||
5.7 | Crack in the Woods | ||||||
Thu 1st May 2003 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Dino Head | |||||||
5.10a | Dino's Milkmaid | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Raspberry Arete | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Best Deal in Town | ||||||
Sun 7th Jun 1992 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Denali | |||||||
AI3 | West Rib - with T. Gustafsson | 2800m | |||||
Alaska grade 4
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Fri 29th May 1992 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Mt. Hunter | |||||||
TD | ★★ West Ridge (W-ridge) - with T.Gustafsson | 2500m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Alpine style ascent 7 days. Climbed as aclimatisation for Denali west rib ascent.
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Thu 17th May 1990 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Denali | |||||||
5.8 5.8 AI4 | Cassin Ridge - with M. Holmgren, D. Bidner, N. Björnerstedt | 2500m | |||||
Alpine style 6 days on face
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Tue 1st May 1990 - Denali National Park | |||||||
Denali | |||||||
Class 3 to Class 4 | ★★★ West Buttress - with M. Holmgren, D. Bidner, N. Björnerstedt | 4000m | |||||
Aclimatisation for Cassin. Reached around 5900m
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Pivot Point | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pivot Point | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
King Dome | |||||||
5.9 | Kingdom Reformed | Crap | |||||
5.9 | Kingdom Reformed | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.7 | Layback | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Upper Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.9 | Abracadabra | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sunshine Ridge | |||||||
5.10b | Thrombosis | ||||||
5.9 | Hey Operator | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Upper Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.8 | Mumbo Jumbo | Crap | |||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Pivot Point | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Cry Baby | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sunshine Ridge | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Sunshine Ridge | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Road Warrior | ||||||
5.10b | Poser | ||||||
5.9 | Exotic Dancer | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.4 | Lightning Bolt | Don't Bother | |||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Upper Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.10a 5.10a X | Hocus Pocus | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Sunshine Ridge | |||||||
5.9 | ★ May Day | ||||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Bermuda Triangle | |||||||
5.3 | Easy Crack | Don't Bother | |||||
Dirty and Dull
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seward Highway | |||||||
Upper Crack in the Woods | |||||||
5.10a 5.10a X | Hocus Pocus | Crap |
Showing all 70 ascents.
After this day, the wind changed to a hit-and-miss easterly flow and further climbs were abandoned in favour of card games and cool ski touring.