Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column Base Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Jo Jo | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman West Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Route 499 | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Lost Horse North Lost Horse Wall South End | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ The Swift - with arbin | 120m | |||||
Fell once in a crack.
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Chimney Rock West Face | |||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Damper | 14m | |||||
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Saint Helena | |||||||
The Bubble | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Solar Power | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Echo Cliffs | |||||||
The Pink Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Restrain This | 25m | |||||
Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column East Face | |||||||
5.11c IV | ★★★ Astroman | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Owens River Gorge | |||||||
Inner Gorge Land Of The Giants | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Probation Violation | 45m, 16 | |||||
fell on the os attempt, really too long to repeat
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Owens River Gorge | |||||||
Abandoned Gorge Dilithium Crystal | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Klingon | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fun! Couldn't work out the crux pinch and high feet combo.
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Quail Springs Trashcan Rock West Face | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Profundity | 2 | |||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Church Bowl Lieback | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
The Emeralds The Benches Steel Monkey Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Steel Monkey | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Don't do stupid gaston match. Go straight up, headed for chockstone jug.
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Mon 16th Oct 2023 - Malibu Creek State Park | |||||||
Planet of the Apes Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Christmas Pump - with Tingting | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Christmas Pump - with Chuck | ||||||
Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker - with Andrew Banks | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last route of the trip and got suitably smashed by the 6" offwidth at the top. Just couldn't keep it together. Fantastic climb and it feels like a bigger meaner brother to Moby Dick.
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum North Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Regular North Face Route - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 280m | |||||
"this route will never be freed, by us, today". Another day yes. Tope of the list for next trip, off to Indian creek then.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.9 | Yose University | 110m | |||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finger section early on was crux for me. Had a fall then was clean to top. Bit awkard getting into offwidth but then it's ok. Has shade early morning.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Above The Cookie | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Separate Reality — 2 attempts - with Jacob Kuchler | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Rock | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Chouinard-Herbert - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 430m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took once on the fifth pitch cause I was spiced at the prospect of not being able to place gear through the crux- guess what- you can.
An incredible day out with will
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Aid Route - with Neil | 55m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first climb in Yosemite. Lead P2 and experienced polished pin scars. Felt quite sustained but likely due to lack of technique. Was hoping to try send this on last day in the valley but a group was practicing portaledge setup and hauling on it
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.10c |
★★★ Outer Limits P1
1
5.10c
105 ft
| 32m | |||||
off in wide section trying to calf lock/heel-toe cam. still need to get better at rope management and endurance in steep splitters
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Lover's Leap Lower Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Black Opal | ||||||
Got mixed up and started on Black Pyre then moved over. Tricky getting over the bulge, then moderate but harder to protect, lots of drag. Very fun route, felt spicey.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Pine Creek Canyon | |||||||
Pratt's Crack Gully Gecko Wall | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Atomic Gecko - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | 16m, 7 | |||||
Ah what a classic, got it one hang slipping off the last difficult hold. But that's how it goes! What a good line, glad I got to climb in a few times.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Pine Creek Canyon | |||||||
Pratt's Crack Gully Mustache Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ B-Gizzle - with William Wardlaw-Kelly | ||||||
Not a good warm up ha
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
The Emeralds The Benches Fast Food Wall | |||||||
5.11d ~5.11c | ★ Fries With That Mantle | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
swing around to the left side of arete, off of good pair jugs. meathook over top of left jug with right hand. delicate
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee River Canyon The Big Chief Center Wall Cave Area | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Raindance | ★ Good | |||||
Two hard moves for crux. Psuedo finger lock with left hand, get right foot jam in obvious V below right hand.
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee - Donner Donner Summit Snowshed Wall East Face | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12c | ★★★ Brain Child | ★★ Very Good | |||||
2 tries. worked all moves on first try. starts easy, gets harder. very sequential just under the lip
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Generator Station | |||||||
5.10c Hard | ★★★ Generator Crack | 18m | |||||
Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.11a |
★★★ Outer Limits P1
- with
Simon
1
105 ft
| 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a line! Don't climb it in the sun, it is quite slippery
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum North Face | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ The Regular North Face Route
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 280m | |||||
Best climb of 23' trip. Had a hard time on the off widths so need to up my game for a clean ascent. absolute classic! So pscyhed on getting up this test piece and hope to be back to give it another go.
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Pine Creek Canyon | |||||||
Pratt's Crack Gully Mustache Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Notorious B.E.G. | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Public Sanitation Upper Tier | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Temple of Doom | ||||||
got all the moves, bummed now that i didnt try for the red point but theres just so much rock here and im greedy to climb all over
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Tue 5th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Outer Limits | 47m | |||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Eagle Creek Canyon Mayhem Cove | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★★★ Huntin' Gator | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3 goes. fell on heartbreaker last move. rock hard on left foot, find blind right foot.
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Pine Creek Canyon | |||||||
Pratt's Crack Gully Mustache Wall | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Flamethrower | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.10d Hard | ★★ B-Gizzle | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tue 15th Aug 2023 - High Sierra | |||||||
Mammoth Lakes Area Warming Wall | |||||||
5.11a | Heat Vampire | 15m | |||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Mickey's Beach | |||||||
Main Rock East Face | |||||||
5.10b R | ★ Corner Route | 12m, 3 | |||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee - Donner Donner Summit Black Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Touch and Go - with Simon | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice line, a bit awkward climbing at the first pitch
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee - Donner Donner Summit Black Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Firecracker - with Simon | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good route, crux at the roof. Watch your rope that it will not get stuck in the crack
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee - Donner Donner Summit Snowshed Wall North Face | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Panic in Detroit - with Simon | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Bottomless Topless - with Simon | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Olmstead Area Olmstead Canyon | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Tideline - with Dane Evans | ★★★ Classic | |||||
worked out moves and gear; seems feasible to redpoint if I plan ahead and also place less gear
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Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Texas Canyon | |||||||
The First Corridor | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Welcome To Texas Canyon | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took some practice falls on this
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Truckee - Donner Donner Summit Snowshed Wall North Face | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Peter Principle | 24m | |||||
Mega fun, coming back for this
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Commitment | 100m | |||||
led p1+p3, slipped off trying to bicep curl the roof crux at max reach. possibly easier if you don't fill the roof crack with cams
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Lower Cathedral Rock North Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★ End of the Line - with Evan | 37m | |||||
varied, long, pretty good. three spots where I needed to sit and figure out what to do.
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5.10d ~5.10d | ★★ Sub-Mission - with Evan | 52m | |||||
sustained layback crux, would be hard placing gear
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Handley Rock | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Angle Grinder Crack | 11m | |||||
5.10 | ★★★ Angle Grinder Crack - with Purrrito | 11m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Boneheads — 3 attempts | 24m | |||||
Wow, tough start on a hot sunny day. Don't forget to douse yourself in deet, the mosquitoes were swarming in late June
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Tue 20th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 R | ★★ C.S. Concerto | 140m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.7 | ★★ After Six - with Michael and Tom, Nathan | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First multipitch Trad climb, with Nathan, Tom and Michael. 7 pitches.
Loved it.
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - El Cajon Mountain | |||||||
The Wedge Center/headwall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Tears Of Envy | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Chapel Wall | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Cosmic Debris | 9m | |||||
Two burns then you need a full rest day for your fingers to return to normal size. Painful locks with poor feet. Really enjoyed working this one out ! Felt really solid on the top and bottom. But the middle always felt like stabbing between sharp locks. Was keen to stay longer but the rain sucked my motivation. Keen to come back for this.
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Big Bear Lake | |||||||
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Central Pinnacles Claim Jumper Wall | |||||||
5.11c/d Hard | Public Hanging - with leo | 24m | |||||
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider - with shane | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The Freeing ended after the freeblast then it turned into Aidrider !
Absolutely mega adventure and I feel like I learnt alot along the way.
Day 1, stuck behind an aid parties initially. But just climbed around them and their gear. Sent all of the free blast. Got the rope stuck twice on the half dollar. Then fixed to the hollow flake and slept on heart ledges. "The move" felt absolutely mingin. Day 2, hauling these pitches was exhausting. Then straight into the hollow flake. & it was just as terrifying as I thought it would be. Need Todo more othwidth climbing bumping two tipped number sixs leaving one and then another before questing 15m above them without any gear felt pretty out there. Then Shane threaded the anchor and started the downclimb taking two falls. Then when he climbed up further I threw the rope down for him to retie back in. Then he untied and I pulled the other line. And the sound I won't forget anytime soon. Metal rattling into the abyss. Shane "was that the six ?* ... " That was both of the sixs" Then we sat on the ledge contemplating if we could climb the rest of the route without any number sixs. Fixed the next two pitchs and stayed on the hollow flake Ledge that night. Day 3, onwards and upwards. Anxious about our position but psyched to be moving. The ear was something to experience. Sadly or happily we skipped the monster and aided the salathe. Made it to the alcove for lunch then climbed to the Spire and fixed two pitches above. Day 4, I think I slept a Total of one hour. Not sure why I decided to sleep on the slopping ledge ahaha. Boulder for breakfast. Such cool movement on this thing ! The crimp before the Gaston thumb move felt pretty spoogy. Gave the moves a few goes but didn't spend too long on it. Sewer pitch was filthy. Shane got the snorkel on for that. Sport lose flake pitch was pretty nerving but pretty sweet climbing. Boom enduro corner. Alot more sporty than it looks weird kneebar stuff and sick laybacking, final pitch of the day and the most exposed pitch of the climb. Wild traversing over the void. Day 5. Pretty dismal free climbing effort on this day ahaha. Those sliver jugs were just too good Frankly I felt pretty destroyed. & Was just happy to be on the summit !! |
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
The Emeralds The Benches Steel Monkey Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Steel Monkey | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
left Gaston crux - fall into match and shoot left hand out to good sidepull loaf
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Creek | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Ying-Yang - with Jack Seawright | 35m | |||||
engaging, a bit slick, great pro. one slip down low just before first ledge. will try lead if back here
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Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Arch Rock | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ New Dimensions | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Set off for this one at 4pm with gen on what was supposed to be my rest day. I was imagining sporty cracks but in reality yosemite multis are rarely just sporty cracks and this one turned out to be 90% v-groove thrash. There were some doubtful moments as the sunline travelled slowly up the hill behind us and light faded 2 pitches from the top but i got to have a lash at the top in bright enough conditions (i wish i could use that as an excuse for not sending). Heartbreaker flared finger jam slip 4m under the chains. Gens answers as to why i was rushing us so much lower down were revealed at the top: i forgot my headtorch. She lent me her phone torch and we rapped to the ground and ate a depressing 10pm dinner in camp 4.5 parking lot.
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Enigma - with Jack Seawright, Caleb | ||||||
slipped in offwidth oops. helmet was stupid but turned out to be entirely necessary for the debris dislodged by the boys onto the semihanging belay from The Enema
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Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Above The Cookie | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Separate Reality | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Magnificent rap in and views from the sloping ledge. Each of us had 2 punts. Not as splitter as the bridge crack in bowen hills but alright for rock i guess. Heart broken by the rude boulder at the end but with a bit of rope help the roof turn was very cool. Nice sesh
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Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower FiFi Buttress, West Face | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Voyager
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 4 | |||||
Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column East Face | |||||||
5.11c IV | ★★★ Astroman | ||||||
Onsighted upto the Harding slot and then hoofed and hissed until I finally emerged an hour later. Probably as close as I'll get to experiencing child birth.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Lover's Leap East Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Line - with Paul B | 98m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Butterballs | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So god damn good. Came out with mattias early to beat the sun, jugged straight up skipping the most exhausting warm up pitch in existence. Mattias jumped on and lashed up 6 pieces then came down, i tried to rose-point it through half-preplaced gear. Pretty solid crack but had a footslip and a good whip at half height which probably is the crux depending on style preference. The top is intreguing in the v groove and the victory jug feels so amazing to caress that itll make your hang dog feel like a long term project red point. Stoked to get out and get some fingers stuck on this pitch that consensus says is the best 5.11 in the valley. At this point im on board with it
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Chapel Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Drive By Shooting | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Phoah pretty tricky face climbing at this spot. Nice to work the fingies and take some solid wings. Still learning to spot a layback. Accidentally took dylans tcs for a burn up some trad route but he still sent this after in the same shoes. Even though he wears 40.5s and i wear 42s. Must have warmed them up for him. Youre welcome mate.
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower FiFi Buttress, West Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Voyager | 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Avalanche wreckage approach was abit choss but the route was awesome. Very stoked to pull off 'the incinerator' first crux pitch at 11c (maybe a little forgiving at the grade but as always ill take it). Worth missing the arrow spire highline for i think. Maybe. Well never know.
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Tue 9th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 1 yosemite (real day 1 after dylan and i hoofed up some 9s near camp yesterday. Serenity sons link up was pretty wild climbing. Quite like angels in buffalo except with a whole pitch manufactured with pin scars. How very american.
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Sports Challenge Rock East Face | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Clean and Jerk - with Jeff D | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
As primarily a sport climber, I managed (TR-onsighted) the start but got extremely pumped in the crack section above (or couldn't get rid of the pump that the start gave me). This route might be nice to climb if you have good crack technique and also if you are less tired than we were at the end of a long day in JTree. Took me three hangs to get to the top.
I found the start hard to protect -- yes, the pods are there, but the individual moves are like a V2/V3 boulder problem, and it would be tough to plug in gear at that moment. Decking potential for sure. |
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Belle Campground Castle Rock North Face | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ That Old Soft Shoe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Sonora Pass | |||||||
Table Mountain The Grotto Lower Main Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Hole In The Wall | 12m, 2 | |||||
Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area Turtle Rock Area Turtle Rock South Face | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 2 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did two tries in toprope for checking out the beta after not getting to the top in lead. Very nice route. Beta for reference (in German) :
Über der dritten Exe an guten Griff rechts doppeln, links hochstehen auf linken schwarzen tritt, rechts höher stehen und links an guten Griff ziehen (schmale Kante). Weiter oben an Riss links rausstehen auf reibung, an Riss höher arbeitenz Dann rechts auf guten Griff stehen. Rechts hochgreifen in sehr kleinen teil Des rises, links höher stehen auf reibung und rechts in guten Griff , der ist auch ein untergriff. Links dazu und Dann mit rechts hochstehen auf fläche großen tritt. Rechts weiter an kleineren Griff Dann links hand in untergriff klemmen, links und rechts hochstehen, links ist der tritt weiß und leicht rausgebrochen, rechts schwarz und Klein. Rechts kreuzen an Henkel. Dann linken fuß in den Riss Stellen, rechts leicht auf reibung toe hooken und links an guten Henkel. Links weit hochstehen auf kleinen weißen tritt Dann mit rechts weit hochgreifen an schlechte Leiste. Rechten fuß auf kleine abgebrochene weiße Leiste. Von unten sieht man dass der tritt zwischen zwei schwarzen teilen der wand ist. Linker fuß auf seitlichen schwarzen tritt. Linke hand in Seitgriff. Rechter fuß etwas neben den linken, linker fuß hoch auf linken guten Griff von vorher. rechts hochgreifen an guten clip Griff. Dann überkreuz an den Griff kurz drüber ziehen, rechte hand dazu. Links auf den rechten richtig guten tritt, rechts etwas höher auf kleinen schwarzen tritt, leicht eingedreht. Dann rechts hoch an leiste. Links etwas hochstehen und mit links kurz Zwischengreifen an kleine schlechte leiste, Dann verlängern an gute. |
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Tumbling Rainbow Formation | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
First did one try in toprope. Before leading attempt. Beta for reference (in German): Unten an Riss, linke hand in Seitgriff weit links. Rechte hand an mittigen Seitgriff auf schulter nehmen. Dann fuß auf den tritt unter gutem Seitgriff (man könnte da auch hooken).
An schlüsselstelle rechten fuß rechts rausstellen, linken fuß mittig, Dann eingedreht an rechte Leiste mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts an rechte angechalkte seitleiste. Dann links etwas weiter hochstehen auf rechter seite und rechts weit hoch auf tritt rechts außen. Dann links hoch auf tritt weit links außen und rechts an guten Griff verlängern (langsam hochtasten und Dann festhalten mit daumen oben) . Über schlüsselstelle rechts in seitleiste Dann gut stehen mittig und links in guten Seitgriff mit links hochgreifen. Dann rechts nach oben verlängern in besseren Seitgriff. |
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5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice route. Want to try again if I am ever back in Joshua tree. The first bolt is quite high, but can be protected with nuts in the small finger crack below. Still I was super scared before reaching first bolt, since I was close to falling before clipping. there is a good ledge/jug for clipping, but only one foothold on the right (very high up).
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Sports Challenge Rock West Face | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak - with Fabian Michel | ★ Good | |||||
First bolt is very high and also it is not easy until the first bolt, would not do it in lead. Very tiny crimps on crux moves. Did not do one move above the belly of the first quickdraw, hard and too painful for fingers.
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Tumbling Rainbow Formation | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fingers still hurt and my beta probably isn't optimal, one move is definitely far and doesn't succeed every time.
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Land That Time Forgot Upper Cow Rock | |||||||
5.12c/d | ★★★ Prime Real Estate — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The first bolt is quite high, and it's also already quite difficult - fortunately, there were some other bolts on the left, which allowed me to try the first part with the first bolt clipped already (this is actually a well-protected sport route apart from the first bolt). Overhanging endurance route on mostly good holds. Climbed it with two rests in the second go, the first of which was unnecessary (took the wrong hold). The fingers still hurt quite a bit from yesterday and we only had 2 hours, so I couldn't do more than 2 tries. Definitely doable within a few more tries.
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area The Real Hidden Valley Sports Challenge Rock West Face | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak — 2 attempts - with Klara R | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Real Hidden Valley Area Turtle Rock Area Turtle Rock South Face | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Desert Shield - with Klara R | ★★★ Classic | |||||
One try to check all the moves, which were all doable. However, to put them together is another story, this would probably have been a week-long project. A lot of endurance on small holds necessary. The moves were quite cool. The rock was glued in some places, one hold was even glued back on after having come off at some point.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - El Cajon Mountain | |||||||
The Wedge Triton Tower | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Triton Tower | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
The Outback Patagonia Pile East Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Hot Legs Contest (Jugline) - with Fabian Michel | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice, but the crux of the route I could only climb in two parts. There is an arrete with several bad holds and a good foothold on the right where you can jam your right foot. The left foot needs to be very close to the right. Then with right hand to a crimp next to the arrete. And into a jug. Then right foot to higher shitty foothold. Left foot somewhere on the left and and left hand to crimp an sloper.
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Candlestein Pass The IRS Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Alf's Arete - with Fabian Michel | 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice but weird arrete climbing. Happy to have climbed with the rope from the top.
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Thu 2nd Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Lost Horse Candlestein Pass The IRS Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Alf's Arete - with Klara R | 26m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice arête and slab climb with few features in some places. It took me a few tries to figure out the crux. Strange climbing, I felt insecure in many places.
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Blob East Face | |||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★★ Papa Woolsey | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice, but feels harder than 5.10b. Very hard slab move at the bottom. Before first bolt you need to be brave. Built first traditional anchor at the top
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground The Old Woman East Face | |||||||
5.10c/d | ★★ Bearded Cabbage | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Could not do the one move when going from last good hold of the flake to the crack. The move exactly was matching the right hand into the crack. Did not try very long though. For next time, try switching feet first and jamming left hand more so that I am already turned in when matching right hand.
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Skyline Areas | |||||||
Platypus | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Moss Man | ||||||
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Auburn Cliffs | |||||||
Auburn Quarry Memorial Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ On Demand | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One fall at crux - read poorly, bad beta. New beta - traverse all the way right at crux.
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Echo Cliffs | |||||||
The White Wall | |||||||
5.12c | ★★ Choptop — 4 attempts | ||||||
Almost got it the second time, fell at last move. Next day I forgot my climbing shoes, so I went on #barefoot. Fell at the last move too, felt good for barefoot climbing. Fourth attempt I messed up the beta and got pumped before the finish. Got no more energy to try more.
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Cosumnes River Gorge | |||||||
Buck's Bar Dome | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Dinkum | ★★ Very Good | |||||
oops slipped
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Wed 4th Jan 2023 - New Jack City | |||||||
Box Canyon East Raven Rocks West | |||||||
5.10c | Same Same But Different | 20m | |||||
Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Intersection Rock North Face | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Lower Right Ski Track - with James Bailie | 21m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Made me question everything in life. Jeez, this was well and truly beyond my capabilities.
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Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Echo Rock Area Echo Rock South End | |||||||
5.10b/c ~5.10c | ★★ Pope’s Crack Direct - with James Bailie | 40m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell heaps on Pope's. The direct exit was heinous.
The movement on the under cling to gain the lip was super cool.
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Sonora Pass | |||||||
Table Mountain The Grotto Lower Main Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ AC Devil Dog | 15m, 6 | |||||
Fell/rested once on the rope
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Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Ramona Wall | |||||||
Roshambo ledge | |||||||
5.8 Hard | Rock Beats Death - with Zach | 4 | |||||
Fell once. My foot slipped during layback section. Pretty hard.
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Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Joshua Tree National Park | |||||||
Hidden Valley Campground Chimney Rock West Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Damper | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Alabama Hills | |||||||
Movie Flat Corridors Sunday Matinee Wall | |||||||
5.10a | Taming Power of the Small | 9m, 4 | |||||
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Bijou | 18m, 6 | |||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Cragmont Park | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Senior | 9m |