Routes in Monterey Bay and Salinas

4 pitches of excellent easy climbing, with one hanging belay (the 2nd). First pitch is the longest, and has the crux (getting off the ground). With careful attention to rope drag, the 2nd and 3rd pitches can be combined, which avoids the hanging belay.

Rappel the route with double ropes or a single 70m rope; a single 60m rope is too short for the final rappel and will leave you hanging at about the first bolt (which sometimes has bail gear on it as a result).

Kibbles and bits starts 20 feet to the right of Bits and pieces on the Flumes formation. Five bolts (3/8 by 3 1/2 inch) take you to the traverse bolt of Bits and pieces on the ledge above. The route was originally toproped and then led. Bolts were placed from hooks and stances. There is a short run out on easier ground toward the top. (www.pinnacles.org)

6x to chains, extension to Bits 'n Pieces. Well protected, on nice solid rock. Possible to avoid final crux overhang with 5.4 traverse. 3x placed on lead from stance, 3x on rappel. Originally rated 5.9+; a later ascent thought both it and Bits 'n Pieces were about 5.8. (www.pinnacles.org)

Jumangi lies thirty feet to the left of tilting terrace on the Flumes formation. This climb has a commiting start and is well protected with five bolts. It begins in a short flared crack and continues up a steep face to the crux between the forth and fifth bolt. Bolts were placed on lead after the route was toproped. The direct start avoiding the crack may be 5.11. (www.pinnacles.org)

2x plus 2 Fixe ring anchors. Go directly up and slightly left of the 6th bolt of "Bits n' Pieces", before it traverses right. The anchors are 90' from ground. (www.pinnacles.org)