A one pitch direct start to 'Derringer'. Starts atop the messy pile of large broken boulders, halfway up the approach slope to 'Derringer' / 'Old Original'. Look for a patch of orange lichen at the base.
If leading, ascend the gully on the left above the ledge, slinging handlebars for natural pro. If top-roping, stay right to ascend the arête. For setting a top-rope anchor, bring lots of webbing and sling the huge knob.
Starts as a second pitch above 'Shute-Mills'[18576619]. 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Chief'[18576565] and 'War Party'[18576505]. Pro: large cams for the crack.
4 pitches of excellent easy climbing, with one hanging belay (the 2nd). First pitch is the longest, and has the crux (getting off the ground). With careful attention to rope drag, the 2nd and 3rd pitches can be combined, which avoids the hanging belay.
Rappel the route with double ropes or a single 70m rope; a single 60m rope is too short for the final rappel and will leave you hanging at about the first bolt (which sometimes has bail gear on it as a result).
On the left side of the face, in a slippery worn right facing corner. Gear is poor and the climbing insecure, so be VERY careful if you're soloing this to set TR anchors!
A short gully on the highest limestone wall. Old school climbers would probably call this 4th class, and use it to pass through the area unroped. Newer climbers would call it low 5th class as it likely includes a few stems, jams and chimney moves
The lovely orange slab right of the split can be top roped anywhere you like - it's great for little kids and beginners who don't have climbing shoes. Be careful of loose rock, in particular the large "shield" at half height, right of the split.
