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Lower Tier

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 13

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Access issues inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

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Routes

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Runout between 1st and 2nd bolt. New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Feelin Your Oats'.

FFA: Ken Stanton & Robin Madgewick, 1991

Chimney left of 'Saviour Heart'. Wide pro.

FFA: Forest Shute & Wade Mills

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Step to the Left'.

FFA: Ken Stanton

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Better Eat Your Wheaties'.

FFA: Armin Fisher & Robin Madgewick, 1988

Bolted line left of 'Saviour Heart'. First bolt is high but can be protected with gear.

(This is probably the unnamed 3-star 5.9 (#19) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.)

FFA: Jeff Follet, 1993

Runout can be mitigated with some larger cams.

FFA: Ken Stanton & Robin Madgewick, 1990

Climb the chimney left of 'Shute-Mills' and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'New Tradition'. Highball start. Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

The first bolt is high and above the crux, which can be optionally protected with a small cam. 3-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Forrest Shute & Wade Mills

Starts on blunt arête left of 'Step to the Left'. One pin and 3 bolts.

New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Death to the Right'.

FFA: Armin Fisher & Robin Madgewick, 1988

Climb the pillar, then link up with 'New Tradition' or 'Shute-Mills'. Blocks on the pillar may not be very stable. Pro to 2".

FFA: Robin Madgewick & Ken Stanton, 1990

Runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Can be mitigated with 0.75"-1.5" cams. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Boneless Chicken Ranch'.

FFA: Robin Madgewick & Ken Stanton, 1990

Runout near the top can be mitigated with pro. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Seymour Frishberg'.

FFA: Robin Madgewick & Ken Stanton

Crack between 'Something Good' and 'Step to the Left'. Highball start. Pro to 2".

2-bolt top anchor on a ledge with rap rings.

FFA: Jerry Dodrill & Chris Summit, 2010

Starts as a second pitch above 'Shute-Mills'. 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Chief' and 'War Party'. Pro: large cams for the crack.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 29 Apr
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