Ascents in New Mexico having Beta

Practiced here after I could not quite lead the crux on Pony Express.

I had a hard time with this climb. I couldn't get up last bit of the right crack, but I managed to traverse left and finish up the left crack.

This climb is located on the south end of the west face. Climb up to and over some blue spray painted graffiti. Move slightly left and up and then finish by moving right to gain the top of the detached block on the southwest side of the summit. A top rope anchor can be set around the large detached block on the southwest side of the summit.

Bottom pitch decent but the top pitches blow

Two and 1/2 practice ascents. Had to work out the crux. A family with two subteen girls climbing something slightly tougher, so I can't climb as good as a fifth grader.

Was my first lead climb

Repeated climb varying route. Variations interesting too.

Took a small detour over a small part of climb. Dropped difficulty to 5.8.

5.8

as good as it gets; probably my favorite route anywhere

Pitch one is terrific. If pitch two weren't so short and loose I would have given it "classic" status. We approached via Torreon, then scrambled down the S side of the Mexican Breakfast formation (though I think you could easily hike down the N side). After climbing, we hiked out the La Luz. That probably took us an extra half-hour, but it was less strenuous and more scenic.

Mostly friction with some runout. Weather, perfect.

Rock climibng New Mexico says this is a 5.12a

first 5.13

Some of rock feels as if it has little ball bearings on it.

got off route a couple of times and probably bypassed 5.9 moves, but still tested by skill. I would guess a steady 5.8

Haven't completed it

harder face moves between porky's and deep narrow slot

Some rope drag. One of my placements didn't help that. Mostly slinged chickenheads for pro.

Hard enough to be interisting. Do-able enough to be fun. Slips past the toughest cruci on Ground Up (10 b/c).

overbolted multi good first multi lead

Fun, short dihedral

Route zigs considerably to arete on the right. That was where Ed's mind was lost.

nearly onsighted fell at last bolt

I completed 1.5 pitches. It was great rock. We ended up bailing out due to time and our conditioning at the time.

1st pitch only - faux lead

I only managed to pull it with lots of encouragement. Only several feet of 5.9. The rest 5.7-5.8

The climb encourages some exquisite moves 30 to 40 feet up second pitch. It was a learning experience leading the first 10 feet of the climb. Was fortunate to lead most of the climb.

1st trad experiece.2 pitches easy clean. good confidence builder

It was better than I expected. I was going to do the 5.9 unknown, which is all stemming and layback on a crack in a corner, but I wound up instead using more face than corner.

Got a free try on this one. Used other climbers toprope to set our own. Most pro needed to lead it is tiny stuff; I'll pass.

First climb of the year, not a good warm-up choice

Another successful top rope of this route

Guidebook says R but didn't seem too bad. Super good and sustained! A real winner.

Great climbing! Not as sustained as Techtonics next door but just as good.

Not the best warmup! Did it because it had a leaver biner and didn't look too hard from the ground... that'll learn me

This is actually "Crosstrainer", the strangely over-bolted route on Checkerboard Wall

I would call it 5.10a.

I would rate it 5.8.

More fun than it used to be.

crux is high. or low. 2 falls, 2 takes.

the tree route...

The description of this route and the 1st pitch of Juniper overhang are hard to follow. I managed to find good rock all the way to the juniper ledge, topping out right under "Bring Me a Bucket". The last stretch was great with small finger pockets.

It's like being a bug climbing a hacksaw blade edge

2nd go

rainy send!

Pulling the finger jams/ringlocks felt much harder than 5.9, but maybe I missed some cheater holds? Had fun!