Ascents in New Mexico having Beta

way overrated...i give it an 11b/c

Sometime day in Spring '17

stiff for 11a, but great climb

Kinda climbed between this and BB...

Really liked it. Plenty of balance, not too much hands. Can't believe I did it

one move wonder

Classic, super moves at the ending!

Nice warmup

Fun

I love this route. Did it 3 times. Good for making your balance better. Somewhat sustained.

Interesting route, but it appears not to be climbed much

One long sport route! Felt cruiser

Great climb, yahoo! Just what i needed to get me out of a funk i was in. No big muscle moves needed.

At the far left of the wall are some anchors at the top of the rock above a series of left sloping cracks. I led up the cracks moving up an left with the last one or two moves up the face to the anchors. I think the lead is 5.7. We then top roped a more direct route up the bottom crack to the anchors which was a little harder, 5.8. I think the anchor also serve Ow Now, on the far left.

Boy it was hot at the climb maybe 85 degrees.

Fritz led the hard lead. I led the easy one. There are almost 3 5.8 cruxes (if that's possible).

Tricky 1st two clips. Fun climb

Climbed to crux; dallied too long, started over and fired through. Re-climbed it twice. Worked on my pinch holds. This could be the last warm day of fall.

After leading Chickenshit I followed Fritz up Chickenheads. He got some rope drag so I did a short exit lead as a thunderstorm started to dump on us. It rained twice that day.

We were greeted by a small rattlesnake at the start of the climb. Fritz moved him and we climbed. I managed to skirt the overhang on lead, but Fritz made it over on second.

Actually the ramp was kinda fun; lotsa exposure. This is how we got to the chains at the top of Protein Supplement and Sunbaked.

First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.

Nice route. Wish it were longer.

Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.

Nice face climb.

Skirts around top of overhang. Should be rated 5.7 instead of 5.8

I liked the variety of moves I had to use in this climb. The offwidth portion is enjoyable too.

The crux is about the last 5' to the last bolt before the chains. I led and sidled a bit left and back to get to that last bolt.

Very nice arête climb, just like the name I would imply. This was my first experience with conglomerate rock, and I liked it a lot. true to the grade.

At two places, by the second to third bolt and just before the chains the grade is 5.9. By the chains it is pumpy

First real trad lead in a while. Felt very comfortable

Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.

Nice variety of moves on a sport climb. Did it twice. New guidebook overrates it a bit (5.8). Don't believe it.

Gallows Edge is not a place to climb on a hot day. I fried my fingers.

Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.

Climbed it 3 times, just to be sure.

Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.

This climb is more likely 5.8.

Four days after climbing here the big Las Conchas fire broke out. Hope it didn't burn out the climbing area.

The route went pretty quick, but the rock was not the best: a little crumbly and dirty.

Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.

Better protected lead than Tuna melt

More anchoring and rapping practice.

Bouldery holds, kind of like climbing in the gym.

Grade at first two bolts was really 5.8

swapped leads with Isaac. We got sucked into some runout 5.8ish terrain on p2 somehow. anyways, good belay ledges and a fun time