Ascents in Connecticut having Beta

Really fun stuff, although in my opinion climbs easier than Cloud Surfing.

Fun bit of work - climbs different from the other 5.9s in the corner.

A little scary going over the lip for a warmup, but overall nice primer for the sharp and irregular rock at Bear Rock.

I don't know if it's V2, but it's not V3

Watch out for loose rock

First part is some fun face climbing with good holds and tricky balancing - last section is a bit of beta testing but incredibly satisfying to stick. Took three tries, but working back up to higher grades!

Had to work out the beta for the crux right before the third clip (on the swinging second bolt). Followed by a gratifying jug and rest to reward you for your footwork, and then careful pulls up into the bones.

Trad

Toproped dogged before an emboldened attempt - cleaned it the second try. Feels like it would be real tough without any height.

Cleaned it this time - still wet, but my shoes found a way.

Some real sketchy feet at an early crux - had to rest before getting it clean the second go. The remaining is a cruise, though. Altogether probably wasn't worth the sketchy scramble up for me.

I TR'ed it, and we left gear, then I lead it on the pre-placed gear

Repeat

hard to protect the first 7 meters. Deserves an R

On preplaced gear

all gear

Short but pretty line. Easy for the grade. My first CT 7a+

A beauty and pretty hard. I don't think this is any easier than Tree of Knowledge (12a) next door

nice bouldery climb

Very pretty climb, not hard

Warmup

Getting the draws back

Laps with Codey

laps with Codey

laps with Codey

Laps with Codey

Laps with Codey

laps with Codey

Met martini aan de HMS...

fun slab but there are parts that lichen over grown made it hard to climb.

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

the first outdoor climb. literally so glad i didn’t die

Great climbing up to the crux with plenty of roofs and jams, mistakenly thought it was a crazy slab up the two crimps and failed the onsight.

Some crazy crux at the second bolt I seriously do not understand. Had to hack my way up with tension. Michael can confirm.

Had to lead up to setup anchor, but suffered hard. Climbing to the first bolt took a bit of trust, afterwards it's all about trusting the feet.

Nice short climb. I took the beta on the right. I believe the left arrete pure would be 12c+

2.5 sessions, ~9 tries, all in terrible conditions in muggy July. Still, I really started liking this rock and climb. I thought this was hard, harder than the 12b's I've done. So I stick to 12c = 7b+

Very bouldery beast of a route. Beautiful movement on great holds. Took me 5 tries, got crazy close on the 2nd try. It feels like benchmark 7b for me.

Awesome route, very technical start and hard crux down low. Felt right on the grade.

I like the name 'Psycho Javelin' more. Hard for me, 3rd try send. Did the right exit, pretty desperate slapping slopers. But the crux for me is low moving off the half moon hold with the high right foot.

Very pretty route, not too hard, but a little odd. Felt slightly easy for the grade

climbing the arette, right hand around the corner, left hand on the face. Topped out the whole thing, 40m, need a long role, or two rappels. Prettiest climb in the area

hard little crux section below the roof, great climb. a bit odd to exit, easy both ways, but I'd say go left to get your draws back

Great climb, takes perfect gear after a spicy start

Sport route now. Called 5.11 in the book, I think a very easy one. Very fun though

Very pretty climb. takes gear in the first half, then clip a great bolt and fire the hard crux. Spicy topout too. Great climb.

repeated this one as a warm up