Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 11th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Mark Hoggard | 29m, 11 | |||||
wet rock is no bueno. Its neighbour seemed better after the rain.
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★ Clean Shaved — 2 attempts | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.
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5.10d | ★★ Booby Prize | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - with Elliott Pryor | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 Hard | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - with Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Thu 26th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Layback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | |||||
fun, can be jammed instead of laybacking. smeary feet that would not be good to loose while in the finger lock though...
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fun route with good moves through different sections of climbing
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
decent long route. not very continuous
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | |||||
slabby, balancy cruxes
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | |||||
fun jug haul
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5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | |||||
slippery feet in the dihedral, not a gimme
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | |||||
tricky scary little roof section. Lots of loose sections of rock
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
Nice long climb, with a few loose blocks. Really reminded me of the 15 and 16 at Little Triggers Wall at Bardens Lookout!
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Mon 6th Jul 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | |||||
did not climb like a 5.6 very deceiving start.
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Sun 1st Sep 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
first chimney ever
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Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Shady Lady | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Night climb
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Wed 19th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | |||||
felt harder than extension
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5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It (Layback and Enjoy It) | 18m, 7 | |||||
had trouble with beta after second clip go left and traverse after lyback wet
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5.11a | ★★ Weisenheimer Brainstorm | 26m, 11 | |||||
bolt to bolt
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Wed 5th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - with Ulfi | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
It is fun route but again two small slopy crimp pull up so for my solution hard for grade. Anchor view is best .
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Wed 5th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It - with Ulfi | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Start from left easer than start from right.
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo - with Ulfi | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It is best route for grade. Thanks to ulf i dont think so i could finish red point.
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5.10a | ★★ The Good Book - with Ulfi | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It is so hard for grade.
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo - with Ulfi | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Compare the sector it is borring.
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist - with Ulfi | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pure fun
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Ulfi | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It is hard for grade. But full fun
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - with Ulfi | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It is very hard for grade but again pure fun
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Sat 26th Nov 2016 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★ Cerveza Verde | 14m | |||||
Got to 3 clip
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Sun 4th Sep 2016 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
Not sure if I did
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | |||||
Couldn't do roof
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Sat 23rd May 2015 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice, tall climb, on solid jugs - beware putting your hand in cracks, my wife came across a snake on this route, almost grabbed it.
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Tue 9th Sep 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Hardcore Female Rash - with Prem Krishnamoorthy | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
Some sketchy moves and movement far from the bolt-line was not very enjoyable. Careful on the rappel off the top roof.
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo - with Prem Krishnamoorthy | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a rest at the crux near the second to last bolt. Very fun route.
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Sat 18th Apr 2009 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | |||||
warmup
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | |||||
couple fun overhangs
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Sun 5th Apr 2009 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Central Bubba | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Cutting Edge | 20m | |||||
Hard and continuous.
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Sun 22nd Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Juggy, really more like 5.8+.
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Sat 21st Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Shady Lady | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
v. high quality
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5.9 | Celtic Sun | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route, just a couple of blind moves that make it intersting
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
odd start, some funky moves
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5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | Average | ||||
nothing too great. Just one good move at second bolt
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5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Serious rope drag. Very reachy for me, luckly it had big holds
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5.8 | Assman | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun, transition to face was definitely intersting
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
jughaul, felt more like5.8+
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Sat 31st May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Bubba Buttress | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Wunderkind | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finished on High C. Awesome dyno
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Eating Bimbo Pie | 15m, 2 | Average | ||||
Go left of line to bolts on 11a. Fun finish
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Bit messy to move around the gear
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Gilded Otter | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
very awkward
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★ Cerveza Verde | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good with exciting moves down low
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice area and quality climbing
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5.10c | ★★ Kinesthetica | 27m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
I think it was this one
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Fri 5th Oct 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.5 | Micro Brew | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I lead this one to set it up for my sister's very first rock climb! Bethany was here and she climbed like crazy awesome.
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5.7 | ★ Gilded Otter | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
I need to try this one again...didn't get it very well. Bethany climbed it after me and did great!!
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Fri 21st Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★ My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
almost did it redpoint, instead I took a nice 20 footer on the second bolt!
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Thu 6th Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
First 5.11 onsight!
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5.6 | Near Beer | 12m | Average | ||||
my first sport climb
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5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
my first above a 5.8+
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Sat 23rd Jun 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Celebration Ale | ★★★ Classic | |||||
First 5.11 Redpoint!
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Sun 3rd Jun 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | |||||
first 11 at the new
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Mon 14th May 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★ Cerveza Verde | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice
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5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really awesome climb, just didn't wasn't my day
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5.8 | ★ Beer Wench | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool climb, last bolt was the best part
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5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very cool climb.
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Sun 13th May 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Hardcore Female Rash | 15m, 4 | Average | ||||
Little wet, but still good
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Sat 21st Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Celebration Ale | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great climb!
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Tue 3rd Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Shady Lady | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I liked it. it was challenging. it changes directions as you go up.
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5.7 | ★ Butterfly Flake | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
it looks like its about to fall off the wall and kill the belay.
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5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
I need to do this one again...
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Mon 24th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ The Attacktician | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
sooo good!
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Sun 23rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tasty Flake | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
cruiser
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5.10d | ★ Radial Rimmed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fat rolls
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Sun 16th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
great positions, saves 10b moves for last
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Bubbaweiser | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
10d to first bolt. 10a rest of way.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Eating Bimbo Pie | 15m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
Protection and route finding were both tricky. Not recommended.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Bubba Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Face It Bubba | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Messed up the sequence pulling the roof, otherwise clean.
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5.10d | ★ Immaculate Combustion | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
Reachy crux!
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Fingers In Da Dyke | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun climb. Mostly vertical and technical climbing. Took me 3 goes b/c on the second I tried to go a bit too quickly.... very worth doing.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Head Wall | |||||||
5.11d 5.11c | ★ Put Up or Shut Up | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Ok climb. Doesn't see much action based on the large tree growing on the roof ledge!!! Super pumpy roof and the top was filthy dirty. I believe the guide I had put this at 11.c
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Sun 4th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.9 | Celtic Sun | 15m, 5 | |||||
Dates are aproxx.
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | |||||
remember backing down from this climb. the roof really scared me. i hate roofs, keith finished the climb and cleaned it on top rope.
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5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | |||||
my first climb at the New. way back when.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
what a view, 95 footer
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Sat 27th May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.6 | Near Beer | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Bad
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5.5 | Micro Brew | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Bad
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5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter | 18m, 5 | Average | ||||
Poorly Bolted
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5.8 | ★ Beer Wench | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome!
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Sun 21st May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Butterfly Flake | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short but nice.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I liked the variety and flow of this climb. Really pushed myself to keep going through the crux.
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Mon 1st May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Little Head Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Helmeted Warrior Of Love | 15m | Average | ||||
In the Dark!
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Sun 30th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
good chimney for beginner leading
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Sat 29th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Head Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ So Freakin' Fun | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun climb. Very tricky to onsight, especially if you have no jamming/offwidth skills! Very cool climb
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Sat 29th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Headless Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Pyro Vixen | 17m | Average | ||||
I still don't understand why this thing gets 4 stars in the book. Ichabod crane is right next to it and 10x better.
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Sun 2nd Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed the onsight b/c I'm a moron. Good climb
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5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Not sure what to call this tick. Stick clipped 1st bolt and fell there once
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Sun 2nd Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tongulation | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty heady lead. I did the easier, right moving variation
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