Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Fool Effect - with Mark Hoggard | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
packs a lot of variety. Bouldery start, techy slab, powerful layback, and a roof to finish it off. Sick! Saw Joe while belaying Mark lol
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval - with Mark Hoggard | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pretty burly for a slab. Found the perfect thumb pinch hold..
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Totally-clipse - with Mark Hoggard | 23m, 5 | |||||
gnaaaaarly move in the middle using slopey small pad for both hands..uhhh..
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Sat 11th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy - with Mark Hoggard | 40m | |||||
P1 offers mild crack climbing with a couple of hard moves to get situated in the crack. If you are reading this, do yourself a favour and stop at P1 anchor. The top out of P2 is caked with runoff (May 2024) which resulted in a 2hr ascent. The two crimps below the anchor were filled with mud leading to some type 2 fun.
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5.9 | ★ Doce Doe - with Mark Hoggard | 30m | |||||
didn't bother with the second pitch
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
★ Rats Alley | 23m | ★ Good | |||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and long, a pain to descend.
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5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 attempts | 26m | |||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.10a | ★ Biohazard | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
brilliant movement. glad I TR'd so I didn't have to worry about gear and could focus on enjoying.
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5.10b | ★★ Party Till Yer Blind | 27m | |||||
commiting start on lead (also for following). great movement but finicky gear
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
just a long route. a couple good moves, but not a 4-star route. wasps in a crack 2/3 of the way up
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Fri 20th Aug 2021 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | |||||
Climbed it after rain. Wall is very slippery. Some dirt were washed down in the hand holds. Crux at the bottom and one third of the wall. I had to grab QuickDraws for a few moves. Then it rained about 5 minutes just to get the wall more wet before Glory followed. I had to haul her for half of the climb.... Top out can connect to the endless trail.
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Wed 13th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Finders Keepers | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second shot, but only just! Super desperate but great movement
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Mon 4th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Quinsana Plus - with Jon Shen | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3rd go. amazing orange rock. thanks for your patience, jon. in the night on the third go cause i'm a punter... fell after the crux.
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Mon 4th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ The Pocket Route - with Jon Shen | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
super hard. more like 8a. reachy. welcome to the new.
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Fri 1st Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.14a | ★★★ Proper Soul - with Jon Shen | ||||||
squeeked it in before the rain! thanks for the long belays from jon and everybody who cheered me on at the crag. happy to have sent this king line of the NRG.
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Tue 15th Oct 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Must do.
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5.12b | ★★★ Bullet The New Sky | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took two falls (3rd and 4th)
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Tue 15th Oct 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful climb. Much more comfortable belay if you scramble up the V0 boulder.
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Mon 7th Oct 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | |||||||
5.12a | ★ Hell Bound For Glory | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
2nd try. unexpected high foot move at top
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Thu 25th Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ The Warm-up | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Actually a lot of fun... layback moves through the crack were great.
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5.12b | ★ Graffiti | ★ Good | |||||
Not the greatest route but I've been gunning for onsights and the crux looked defined so gave it a crack. Stuffed the beta and recovered, stoked!
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Wed 3rd May 2017 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing line. Definitely going back for more..
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5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbing was average but the location and exposure was amazing.
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5.10b | ★★★ Remission | 26m | |||||
Woo! A bit scary protecting the flare up high but the run out was shorter than I feared..
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Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
They don't come better than this!
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5.11a | ★★★ Raging Waters | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great hidden nut on top of a flake at the crux (near the ground)
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5.12a | ★★ Fine Motor Control | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great rock and nice climbing. If the first third (ie the crux) was at the top it would be more classic. Still worthwhile I thought.
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5.10c | ★★ Can I Do It 'Til I Need Glasses? | 29m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quite cracky.
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5.10b | ★★★ Remission | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great line.
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Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So classic! Exciting finish.
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5.10a | ★★★ Black And Tan | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Engaging classic.
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5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Perfect rock. It's like someone designed it!
A couple of the slopers had never seen a brush!
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5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool juggy crack. Green and red for a fair while but the face holds keep the grade down.
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Fri 20th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Undeserved Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ The Undeserved | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loose block is exciting!
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5.11a | ★★★ Mig Squadron | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tricky trav but not too bad. Great moves.
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Sat 21st Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12b | ★ Graffiti | ||||||
Greasy sloper crimping Dyno that I could actually do and one other hold I couldn't hold. Such a sandbag!.
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Sat 14th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Glass Onion | 23m, 5 | |||||
Very blue mountains!
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5.12a | ★ Hell Bound For Glory | 26m | |||||
Second shot. And a victory lap on tr to finish us up. Everything else looked too hard after that epic. Took a bit longer than anticipated.
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Sat 7th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Hourglass | 26m | |||||
so tired but want to check it out while I can get a free ride after seeing the whippers Jon was taking at the top. awesome climbing. nails hard start for me but the top was actually ok. will come back here. good afternoon shade and no one about!! on a Saturday!!
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5.11a | ★★ The Warm-up | ||||||
super pumpy (I am tired though) but... this actually feels like a real warm up climb! yaay
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Fri 6th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | |||||
wow amazing. does get morning sun though... which is hot....
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Fri 6th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | |||||
3 shots. could work out the crux start and get through til the last pumpy section before my fingers fatigued. the last move to the anchors is petrifying. long fall through tree branches and since I really didn't want my obituary to read impaled on tree branch, I stick clipped the anchor (which needed a bloody long stick) having done that and worked out the top, its not so bad (although I would have fallen first time). great moves. just need sleep and more finger endurance. feels like a 27!
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5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | |||||
hard first time. too scared to take fall with ledgy bits. much easier second time round
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Mon 2nd Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Quinsana Plus | 27m, 10 | |||||
2 shots. cant do last move to mantle. fingers still need work but definitely getting stronger. amazing moves to the last section.
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Mon 2nd Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus | 26m, 9 | |||||
otherwise known as homer who wrecked us. cool climbing but super techy. not a good warm up climb
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Wed 30th Oct 2013 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
8b+ 5.14a | ★★★ Proper Soul | ||||||
Crawling with lady bugs. 13d/14a
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Mon 28th Oct 2013 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
8c 5.14b | Trebuchet | ||||||
Sat 21st Jul 2012 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Favorite climb at the New River, great position and nice rock, and exposed.
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Sun 27th May 2012 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Super Mario Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Unnamed 2 | 17m, 4 | |||||
The 1rst route just left of Pack and Boots chimney. Worthwile route if your in the area
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Sat 26th May 2012 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved this long climb.
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Wed 5th May 2010 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Remission | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun.
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5.11a | ★★★ Raging Waters | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard move down low with not much gear. Top is nice.
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5.12a | ★★ Fine Motor Control | 26m | Average | ||||
Hard at the bottom, a little runout at the top. This route should have been easy, but for some reason it took me several attempts.
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Wed 5th May 2010 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Idol Point | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Idol Point Arete | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard to onsight, easy to redpoint.
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5.11c | ★★★ The Spectre | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
If you just stay relaxed, it will feel like 11c. Bring gear if you don't like running it out.
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5.11c | Meniscus Burning | 12m, 3 | Average | ||||
Bolts are spaced, but they are where you need them.
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Mon 5th Nov 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Idol Point | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Spectre | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super Awesome Climb! I just didn't have the endurance to finish the last two moves.
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Sun 4th Nov 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice clean face climbing.
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Thu 26th Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Slabs | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Reception | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
there is a huge crack that tappers out. I had to jam my whole chest it in, then it freed up my hands and feet to inch my way to some holds. there is a nice lay back up top of the crack, then a giant "flake" you gotta tip toe around.I bear hugged the flake trying to be funny, then thought "hey, this works..." and climbed it using a bear hug.
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5.8 | ★★ The Reception | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
climbed it twice in a day. second time was faster and cleaner.
there is a huge crack that tappers out. I had to jam my whole chest it in, then it freed up my hands and feet to inch my way to some holds. there is a nice lay back up top of the crack, then a giant "flake" you gotta tip toe around.I bear hugged the flake trying to be funny, then thought "hey, this works..." and climbed it using a bear hug.
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Tue 24th Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Slabs | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Seventh Sign | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
it was a good crack. climbed it with Bethany, Aaron, Marie, and Dan. good times.
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Wed 27th Dec 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Raging Waters | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Probably a top 5 climb for me
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Sun 8th Oct 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Idol Point | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Riding The Crest Of The Wave (Riding The Crest Of A Wave) | 43m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super-fun. P1 is tricky.
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Sat 7th Oct 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Pre-Marital Bliss | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Main route is excellent. The traverse finish is difficult and dangerous. ~5.10b. 2nd up to mid-route, then took over lead.
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5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sustained hand/fist jams.
10b is the appropriate grade, not 5.9 (new book ed.)
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Sun 3rd Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super Fun climb! Slabby with the prettiest top out I've seen at the New. The view of the river from the top is fantastic!! Nice easy climbing as well.
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5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus | 26m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice face climb. 1st go hung the draws and had to work out some moves. TR'd it next to get my sequence and then I ticked it on the 3rd go. Nice long fun climb. Worth doing if in the area.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Glass Onion (The Glass Onion) | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
First warmup of the day on Sunday. Good climb. Slabby with one tricky part. A nice warmup b/c it isn't too pumpy.
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Fri 1st Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stout 12b.
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Fri 1st Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike A Scowl | 23m, 8 | |||||
Easiest 5.10b I've ever been on. Going back this season to get a redpoint
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Fri 23rd Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Slabs | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Seventh Sign | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
for the folks
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Sun 28th May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
should have given it another go after hanging the draws...next time.
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5.9 | ★ Doce Doe | 30m | Don't Bother | ||||
damp and mossy, we were waiting for another climb and this filled the time.
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Tue 23rd May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
one dicey move
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
slab walk
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Mon 8th May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.7 | Moonraker | 21m | Don't Bother | ||||
dirty as hell
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Mon 1st May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Doce Doe | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
did 1st pitch (5.6)
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Sat 11th Mar 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Slabs | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Rat's Alley | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Good pro - need multiple 3-3.5"
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Sat 11th Mar 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Cirque | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Jane | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
challenging first 20'
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5.9 | Dead Animal Crackers | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Good jams, but dangerous ledges
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Thu 15th Sep 2005 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ The Weatherman's Thumb | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd go
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Fri 24th Jun 2005 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | |||||||
5.12a | ★ Hell Bound For Glory | 26m | Don't Bother | ||||
Crap!
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Fri 27th May 2005 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Discombobulated | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
thin bottom, airy finish
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Sun 31st Oct 2004 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Doce Doe | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
P1 (5.7) only - P2 looks short/crappy
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5.7 | Steppin' Out | 30m | Average | ||||
Route-finding difficult!
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Sat 30th Oct 2004 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
1 rest at 4th bolt
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Sun 10th Oct 2004 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
P1
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Sat 3rd Jul 2004 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Cresent Moon | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
offwidth, difficult 5.7
|
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Sat 3rd Jul 2004 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
first 10b flash lead
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