Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | |||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
awesome start, slightly overhanging #1 hand jams with some option for footholds. eases up after pulling the bulge to 5.6-5.7 climbing
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5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
more jugs than crack holds, but still fun.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
good crack climbing broken up by ledgy traverses, finishing with some decent face moves
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Wed 6th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite - with Jon Shen | 18m | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension - with Jon Shen | 23m | |||||
Wed 29th Aug 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | |||||
5.7 | Jumpin' Jack Flash | 15m | |||||
Tue 2nd May 2017 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Two hangs. A very interesting puzzle. Not sure what's up with the first bolt being 20 ft up though...
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | |||||
Some pre-placed gear.
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 5th Sep 2016 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | |||||
had to use rope on crux
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5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | |||||
Sat 6th Aug 2016 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
Clean TR on first try. Really fun moves.
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5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
Clean TR on first try. Really fun moves.
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Fri 15th Apr 2016 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Keep It Tight But Don't Give Me Aids | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Someone stole this route from Arapiles! Fantastic and steep for the grade.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not as good as its namesake at Arapiles but still worth doing.
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice thin facey crack.
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5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing route! Steep bulgy line. Crack skills required.
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5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Feels a bit goey in one spot. Cool line.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great but not very continuous. Probably would be 5.7 in Yosemite
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5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad. A bit thoughtful in spots.
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great rock. A couple of nice locks on this one.
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5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldery bits in between good footholds.
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Wed 27th Nov 2013 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
5.8 | Ann's Revenge | 18m | |||||
Wed 2nd Oct 2013 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
mock traditional climb
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 21st Aug 2013 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
Was a TR !! but great climb
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Sat 26th Jul 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.8 | Mr. Ed | 20m | Average | ||||
dirty
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Sat 31st May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
AWESOME face moves. GREAT gear
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5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice high up
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5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
sweet moves down low and learn how to climb off widths.
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Sat 17th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.8 | Mr. Ed | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.12b | ★ Yew Nosemite | 18m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Mar 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Frigidator | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
this one is rockin awesome. it is in the cave
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It took me fifteen minutes to do this one my first time. This time, three.
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5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
always a good one.
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5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
always a quick one up.
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5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 2nd Mar 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | Keep It Tight...Variation Finish | Average | |||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★ Keep It Tight But Don't Give Me Aids | Average | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Frigidator | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 20th Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
one move makes the route...left hand on that ledge, left foot in that little pocket above the toe ledge, right foot a few inches higher and to the right of the crack, muscle your way up onto your right foot while grabing that little sideways crimper, then get up the rest of the way on your right foot, bringing your left foot to where your left hand was.
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Sat 15th Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ V-Slot (Ride A Rock Horse) | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
this was a challenging crack. great balance of crack and face holds for me.
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5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb, hardest thing I've climbed without falling.
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5.7 | Jumpin' Jack Flash | 15m | Average | ||||
this was a stinky climb
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Sat 25th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Jumpin' Jack Flash | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 20th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bethany and I climbed this one together on the day I asked her to marry me!
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Sun 12th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 18th Jul 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
first 5.9 trad redpoint and highest to date
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5.8 | Ann's Revenge | 18m | Average | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 1st Jul 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
After the third time leading it i finally just went for the jump right away.
My hardest redpoint to date
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Sat 19th May 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | Enteruptus | 21m | Average | ||||
Nice climb until half way through the traverse, where you encounter all the dirt from run off. Unfortunately these are also the crux moves.
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Sat 21st Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
I got all the way to the top, literally touching the anchors, but I could figure out how to pull myself up on the ledge without a rest.
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5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | |||||
Dan free solo'd this one to set up the top rope. I told him not to. It was real easy. I barely moved into flow for only a minute or two.
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5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
this was my first clean up job. I climbed it, then Emily Dunkerton Climbed it, then I climbed it again and cleaned it up.
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Tue 10th Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb, going to redpoint it next time!
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5.10b | ★★ Frigidator | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | Ann's Revenge | 18m | Average | ||||
2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ The Contortionist | 18m | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | |||||
5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | |||||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | |||||
5.7 | Jumpin' Jack Flash | 15m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Keep It Tight But Don't Give Me Aids | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 falls at crux
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5.10a | Enteruptus | 21m | |||||
Hard opening sequence (10b/c ?). Point to pull roof not clear. Pumped out.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Climbed with Bill M, Mike T. took photos. All I can say is WOW, this is an awesome climb. The moves are as beautiful as the climb looks. First attempt, took a 15 footer at the final hard roof move on a #1.
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5.9 | ★ V-Slot (Ride A Rock Horse) | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Bill. Really good Off Width climb. Good warm up to "Stuck in Another Dimension".
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.8 | Mr. Ed | 20m | Average | ||||
awkward.
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5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | Average | ||||
Tue 4th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | Average | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best trad routes I've done. Start with a low angle, steep dihedral. Reducing angle leads to more tenuous face moves, to finish with some fun roof moves. Belayed Bill, he cleaned on the way down for me to attempt.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent route, though a little short.
Mike K & Bill |
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5.11c | ★ Andropov's Cold | 9m | Average | ||||
Really short, thin crack. To top out at the top of the cliff requires climbing a really dirty face around the arete.
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
One move wonder, but a fun route none-the-less.
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Mon 1st May 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 | Jumpin' Jack Flash | 15m | Average | ||||
Average when dry
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Sat 15th Apr 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Couldn't pull the last hard move before the top.
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