Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.12d | ★★★ Devil Doll | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Oct 2007 | |||||
Often over looked climb that breaks left after first 3 bolts on Lactic Acid Bath. Last couple of moves are frequently wet due to run off; unfortunately they are not gimme moves but still doable if moist. Well worth a run if the top looks dry.
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7b 5.12c | ★ Chorus Line | 26m, 4 | New River Gorge | Tue 10th Nov 2020 | |||||
Trad A journey through time and space with zero chalk, holy moly. This would be 7c+ in Tensleep ha!
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5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2015 | ||||
So classic! Exciting finish.
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5.12b | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 24th Nov 2015 | ||||
Has it all! Starts with a mini roof, then long moves on good holds, then a crimp rail, then great face climbing topped by a mantle. Very sustained apart from one rest jug. Really classic.
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5.12b | ★ Graffiti | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 25th Apr 2019 | |||||
Not the greatest route but I've been gunning for onsights and the crux looked defined so gave it a crack. Stuffed the beta and recovered, stoked!
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5.12a | ★★ Fine Motor Control | 26m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Nov 2015 | ||||
Great rock and nice climbing. If the first third (ie the crux) was at the top it would be more classic. Still worthwhile I thought.
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5.12a | ★★ Team Machine | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Nov 2015 | ||||
Fantastic rock.
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5.12a | ★★ Pockets of Resistance | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Apr 2019 | ||||
First 5.12a onsight, stocked to do it on this short, crimpy, techy route.
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5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2015 | ||||
They don't come better than this!
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5.11c | Meniscus Burning | 12m, 3 | New River Gorge | Average | Wed 5th May 2010 | ||||
Bolts are spaced, but they are where you need them.
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5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th May 2014 | ||||
Wow, right at the highest edge of the grade, couple of cruxes with wrong handing moves - Awesome!
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5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2015 | ||||
Perfect rock. It's like someone designed it!
A couple of the slopers had never seen a brush!
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5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | New River Gorge | Wed 7th Oct 2020 | |||||
So happy to onsight it. You really need to know how to rest on this route.
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7a 5.11c | ★ Steve Martin's Face | 24m | New River Gorge | Tue 10th Nov 2020 | |||||
Trad Tricky gear!
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5.11b | ★★ Q-Tip | 7 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
Surprisingly crimpy at the grade
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5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | ||||
Wow outstanding, great climbing with a crux guarding the anchor, though thankfully it is only just above the last bolt
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5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | ||||
Bouldery bits in between good footholds.
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5.11b | ★★★ Englishman's Crack | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Nov 2015 | ||||
Classic but only in a "classic line" kind of way.
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5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | ||||
Must do.
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5.11a | ★ Grit and Bear It | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | ||||
Verging on classic for it's technicality, deserves stars
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5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Sep 2005 | ||||
first 5/11
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5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 6th Sep 2007 | ||||
First 5.11 onsight!
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5.11a | ★★ Discombobulated | 26m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th May 2005 | ||||
thin bottom, airy finish
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5.11a | Delirium Tremors | 15m | New River Gorge | Sun 3rd Jun 2007 | |||||
first 11 at the new
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5.11a | ★★ The Warm-up | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||||
Good moves, pumpy but in just the right way
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5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | ||||
Amazing route! Steep bulgy line. Crack skills required.
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5.11a | ★★★ Mig Squadron | 25m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 20th Nov 2015 | ||||
Tricky trav but not too bad. Great moves.
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5.11a | ★★★ Raging Waters | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2015 | ||||
Great hidden nut on top of a flake at the crux (near the ground)
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5.11a | ★★ The Warm-up | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Apr 2019 | |||||
Actually a lot of fun... layback moves through the crack were great.
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10d | Chameleon | 15m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | ||||
short
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5.10d | ★ Hot Flash | 18m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jun 2005 | ||||
Trad. No anchors. Schetchy top out on moss roots.
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5.10d | ★★ Bubbaweiser | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Jul 2006 | ||||
10d to first bolt. 10a rest of way.
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5.10d | ★★ Cottonhead | 12m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
Surprisingly pumpy at the grade
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | ||||
Nice thin facey crack.
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5.10c | ★★ Kinesthetica | 27m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 25th May 2008 | ||||
I think it was this one
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5.10c | Just Say Yo To Jugs | 23m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 11th Apr 2004 | ||||
Climbed to Necromancer anchors. Will finish rest of route at a later date.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 1st May 2000 | ||||
I did a long time ago...
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5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | ||||
Half onsight, the first guy didn't get past the third bolt
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5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Mar 2004 | ||||
fun climb
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 27th May 2006 | ||||
Ok route. Got a little more pumped than I had hoped at the top. Worth doing, especially as a warmup for Mensa or the other harder lines.
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5.10c | ★ Labor Day | 17m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 7th Oct 2006 | ||||
Split into 2 pitches. Led 1st pitch ~5.8.
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5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | ||||
Feels a bit goey in one spot. Cool line.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
Onteresting moves. Makes you think.
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5.10c | ★★★ The Undeserved | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Nov 2015 | ||||
Loose block is exciting!
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5.10c | ★★ Can I Do It 'Til I Need Glasses? | 29m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2015 | ||||
Quite cracky.
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5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Oct 2023 | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★ Glass Onion (The Glass Onion) | 23m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2006 | ||||
First warmup of the day on Sunday. Good climb. Slabby with one tricky part. A nice warmup b/c it isn't too pumpy.
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5.10b | ★ Two Tone Arrete | 21m | New River Gorge | Mon 29th May 2006 | |||||
quite damp and just out of reach bolts...quite heady
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5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | ||||
Climbed wit Bill M. Starts on "spider wand" off width, wrap around corner about halfway to fun face crack.
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | New River Gorge | Average | Thu 19th Aug 2004 | ||||
Easy climbing leads to Crux after last bolt
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th May 2008 | ||||
Negotiable classic with respect to the awesome crux move
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | New River Gorge | Average | 2006 | ||||
snow on the ground
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th May 2005 | ||||
Fun, pumpy
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 28th May 2008 | ||||
Rate the crux move
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Face crack.
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5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2006 | ||||
Super Fun climb! Slabby with the prettiest top out I've seen at the New. The view of the river from the top is fantastic!! Nice easy climbing as well.
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5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent line, dihedral under roof back to face crack.
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jul 2006 | ||||
great positions, saves 10b moves for last
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th May 2014 | ||||
Good moves
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th May 2014 | ||||
Excellent
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5.10b | ★ Glass Onion | 23m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Jun 2014 | ||||
Crimpy high stepping goodness
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5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | ||||
Interesting rock feature
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | ||||
Great rock. A couple of nice locks on this one.
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5.10b | ★★ Spider Wand | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
Blue camalot crack in a steep dihedral to a roof section.
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5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
Cool swinging around the arête
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
Such a great route! Technical finger crack with perfect nut slots the whole way.
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5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
Super unlikely and intimidating for the grade! A great climb.
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5.10b 5.10b R | ★★★ Angel's Arete | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 23rd Nov 2015 | ||||
Amazing rock and great climbing and fantastic line.
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5.10b | ★★★ Springboard | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Nov 2015 | ||||
The start is a bit burly and then it's easier.
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5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 3rd May 2017 | ||||
Climbing was average but the location and exposure was amazing.
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5.10b | ★★★ Remission | 26m | New River Gorge | Wed 3rd May 2017 | |||||
Woo! A bit scary protecting the flare up high but the run out was shorter than I feared..
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece - with Ulfi | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Sep 2018 | ||||
It is crimpy at the middle but again hard for grade atleast for me .
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage - with Ulfi | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | ||||
Reachy.
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5.10b | ★ Springer - with Ulfi | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | ||||
Techky
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5.10b | ★ Almost Heaven | 12m, 4 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 22nd Apr 2019 | ||||
Nice climbing at the grade, and a perfect warm up for the type of climbing at the crag.
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5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | ||||
Beautiful climb. Much more comfortable belay if you scramble up the V0 boulder.
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10b | ★★ Party Till Yer Blind | 27m | New River Gorge | Sat 28th May 2022 | |||||
commiting start on lead (also for following). great movement but finicky gear
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th May 2022 | ||||
fun route with good moves through different sections of climbing
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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5.10 | ★ New Tricks For The Old Dog | 18m | New River Gorge | Sat 28th May 2022 | |||||
pumpy fun line
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5.10a | ★ Totally Tammy | 18m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 21st Sep 2003 | ||||
Wierd start, but a fun slab climb.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jun 2002 | ||||
always dry
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5.10a | ★ Totally Tammy | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | ||||
I thought this had all the elements, go until the end
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Jun 2008 | ||||
jughaul, felt more like5.8+
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5.10a | ★★ Mushrooms | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Face Crack.
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5.10a | ★ Out Of Mind | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th May 2008 | ||||
GREAT start
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jun 2008 | ||||
Juggy, really more like 5.8+.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | ||||
roger's right
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th May 2005 | ||||
Hard start roof to easier climbing
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5.10a | ★ Out Of Mind | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th May 2008 | ||||
Nice start to fun climbing higher
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2004 | ||||
rogers hitlist
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | ||||
Great climb, caution required
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5.10a | ★★ Cottonmouth | 6 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
Surprisingly technical at the grade
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