Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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Mo 13. Mai 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 schwer | ★★ Fool Effect - mit Mark Hoggard | 38m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
packs a lot of variety. Bouldery start, techy slab, powerful layback, and a roof to finish it off. Sick! Saw Joe while belaying Mark lol
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval - mit Mark Hoggard | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
pretty burly for a slab. Found the perfect thumb pinch hold..
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Totally-clipse - mit Mark Hoggard | 23m, 5 | |||||
gnaaaaarly move in the middle using slopey small pad for both hands..uhhh..
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Mo 13. Mai 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10b R | ★★★ Angel's Arete - mit Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
gorgeous arete! Some really sweet moves. Would be mad scary to lead on trad..
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5.8 | ★★ Zag - mit Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
found the start to be quite demanding but maybe it was just sore muscles from super crack..
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5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey - mit Mark Hoggard | 85m | |||||
rip big red nut. Got to learn to commit to laybacks hey..
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So 12. Mai 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Thunder Buttress | |||||||
5.9 schwer | ★★★ Super Crack - mit Mark Hoggard | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Wow, this was quite the journey. Takes you through a chimney, cruxy overhang, fairly enjoyable crack, gnarly chicken wing, and steeeeeep finish. Forgot to breathe for the last 5 mins. Mega!
Took so much out of both of us that we packed up and went for a swim in the New lol
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So 12. Mai 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Journey To The Center Of The Brain - mit Mark Hoggard | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Cool wavy bulby scoopy features on this one. Mark found gear a bit finicky.
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Sa 11. Mai 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - mit Mark Hoggard | 29m, 11 | |||||
wet rock is no bueno. Its neighbour seemed better after the rain.
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Sa 11. Mai 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy - mit Mark Hoggard | 40m | |||||
P1 offers mild crack climbing with a couple of hard moves to get situated in the crack. If you are reading this, do yourself a favour and stop at P1 anchor. The top out of P2 is caked with runoff (May 2024) which resulted in a 2hr ascent. The two crimps below the anchor were filled with mud leading to some type 2 fun.
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5.9 | ★ Doce Doe - mit Mark Hoggard | 30m | |||||
didn't bother with the second pitch
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Do 12. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★ Clean Shaved — 2 Versuche | 21m | ★ Gut | ||||
Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.
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5.10d | ★★ Booby Prize | 21m, 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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Mi 11. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Gut | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Mi 11. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
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So 8. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
★ Rats Alley | 23m | ★ Gut | |||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice and long, a pain to descend.
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5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back
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Sa 7. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 Versuche | 26m | |||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.10a | ★ Biohazard | 34m | ★ Gut | ||||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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Fr 6. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance — 2 Versuche | 21m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
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Fr 6. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★ Gut | ||||
Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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Mi 4. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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Mi 4. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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5.9 | ★★ Happy Hands | 21m | Durchschnitt | ||||
I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.
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Di 3. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★ Gut | ||||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | |||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Mo 2. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - mit Elliott Pryor | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.
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Mo 2. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - mit Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 schwer | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - mit Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Gut | ||||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - mit Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Mo 2. Okt 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Interesting final moves made the route
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5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Gut | ||||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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5.10b ~5.10c | ★ Springer | 23m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | ★ Gut | ||||
Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★ Gut | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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Sa 30. Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 schwer | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie - mit Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 24m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Bummer. I really expected this thing to be all time, and sure it was good but it certainly left a lot to be desired. The bottom was uninspiring and lacked a clear line, and many of the holds seemed chossy. Once you pull around to the right side of the arete, however, the route is amazing. Super fun face climbing on cool holds and even a sinker mono in the crux if you choose to use it. If the whole climb was as good as the last two bolts this thing would be all time but unfortunately that wasn't the case.
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Sa 30. Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Preparation H - mit Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
2nd Try. Really sick route, with incredible sequences throughout. Hard moves off the ground were unenjoyable on the flash try, but felt sick on the go. Climbing to the 5th quickdraw is just some could old-fashioned arete liebacking movement with a sick toe perch to gain a crimp, and the boulder after pulling around the corner is divine with sequential footwork and an incredible float move out right. Felt a really good flow on this one and was psyched to do it soft 2nd.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - mit Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
First route at the New! This one was on the all-time list, in fact, the only 5.10 from the New to make the list, and I've been nervous it wouldn't live up to the hype. Lucky for me, it turned out to be as sick as a 5.10 can be. Straightforward long lock-offs, balancy and thoughtful sections, and a really nice section with jugs and horizontal hand jams. People say this one is polished, but I thought it was in incredible shape for its popularity. Went back up a second time and got some crux footy from Caleb to hopefully put into the blog.
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So 29. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
awesome start, slightly overhanging #1 hand jams with some option for footholds. eases up after pulling the bulge to 5.6-5.7 climbing
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5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
more jugs than crack holds, but still fun.
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So 29. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Totally Tammy | 18m | |||||
wandery line makes leading the first part a little adventurous. a couple fun moves, but not continuous.
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So 29. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
good crack climbing broken up by ledgy traverses, finishing with some decent face moves
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So 29. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | |||||
very polished with decent movement
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Sa 28. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Star Trek Wall | |||||||
5.6 | Transporter Crack | 12m | |||||
wet
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Sa 28. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
brilliant movement. glad I TR'd so I didn't have to worry about gear and could focus on enjoying.
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Sa 28. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Central, Right | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ritz Cracker | 26m | |||||
awesome jams broken up by a couple ledges
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Sa 28. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Party Till Yer Blind | 27m | |||||
commiting start on lead (also for following). great movement but finicky gear
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Sa 28. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
just a long route. a couple good moves, but not a 4-star route. wasps in a crack 2/3 of the way up
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Sa 28. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Ritz Cracker Area | |||||||
5.10 | ★ New Tricks For The Old Dog | 18m | |||||
pumpy fun line
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Do 26. Mai 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Layback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | |||||
fun, can be jammed instead of laybacking. smeary feet that would not be good to loose while in the finger lock though...
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
fun route with good moves through different sections of climbing
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
decent long route. not very continuous
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | |||||
slabby, balancy cruxes
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | |||||
fun jug haul
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5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | |||||
slippery feet in the dihedral, not a gimme
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Fr 20. Aug 2021 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | |||||
Climbed it after rain. Wall is very slippery. Some dirt were washed down in the hand holds. Crux at the bottom and one third of the wall. I had to grab QuickDraws for a few moves. Then it rained about 5 minutes just to get the wall more wet before Glory followed. I had to haul her for half of the climb.... Top out can connect to the endless trail.
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Di 10. Nov 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
7a 5.11c | ★ Steve Martin's Face | 24m | |||||
Trad Tricky gear!
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7b 5.12c | ★ Chorus Line | 26m, 4 | |||||
Trad A journey through time and space with zero chalk, holy moly. This would be 7c+ in Tensleep ha!
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So 8. Nov 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Thieves Area | |||||||
7b+ 5.12c | ★ Portly Gentleman's Route | 18m | |||||
#2go Trad Honestly felt harder than Acharya, ha! Wicked route. Respect to G double!
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So 18. Okt 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | |||||
tricky scary little roof section. Lots of loose sections of rock
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
Nice long climb, with a few loose blocks. Really reminded me of the 15 and 16 at Little Triggers Wall at Bardens Lookout!
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Sa 17. Okt 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Club | |||||||
5.9 | Hidie Hidie Ho | 18m | |||||
I liked this one, varied face and slab climbing, with some technical tiny holds, flake and juggy arete! ... and some vegetation in between!
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5.10a | His | 18m | |||||
not super fun
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5.10b | Copper-Colored Transitions | 12m | |||||
Super fun pumpy climb
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5.8 | Diggie Diggie Doo | 18m | |||||
was hard for a 5.8... or at least for my first in awhile...
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Do 8. Okt 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Thunder Struck | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
It's so fun when you know all the betas. Would come back for it!
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Do 8. Okt 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10a | Play it by Ear | 20m | |||||
It could be 5.10b.
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5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | |||||
Two tries so far. I was so pumped after climbing over the roof that I almost could not bear the good jugs near the anchor. Cool ledge climbing and big movements.
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Mi 7. Okt 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | |||||
So happy to onsight it. You really need to know how to rest on this route.
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Mo 6. Jul 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | |||||
did not climb like a 5.6 very deceiving start.
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Di 18. Feb 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Incident | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Onsight
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Mo 18. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Just Send It Wall | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Just Send It | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Surely the best climb in the New. If this is all I get to climb until I leave the States, I’ll be happy. All the moves are done, but linking will not come easy.
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Mo 18. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Fern Creek Falls | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Fall Line | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Super fun!
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Mi 13. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Finders Keepers | 23m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Second shot, but only just! Super desperate but great movement
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Mo 11. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Slash and Burn | 23m | |||||
Come back with more skin
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Mo 4. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Quinsana Plus - mit Jon Shen | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
3rd go. amazing orange rock. thanks for your patience, jon. in the night on the third go cause i'm a punter... fell after the crux.
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Mo 4. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ The Pocket Route - mit Jon Shen | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
super hard. more like 8a. reachy. welcome to the new.
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Mo 4. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chunky Monkey - mit Jon Shen | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
cool slab tricks and then jugs.
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5.13d | ★★ The Travisty - mit Jon Shen | 21m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
sharp mono!!! contrived crux. went left.
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Fr 1. Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.14a | ★★★ Proper Soul - mit Jon Shen | ||||||
squeeked it in before the rain! thanks for the long belays from jon and everybody who cheered me on at the crag. happy to have sent this king line of the NRG.
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So 20. Okt 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor The Glory Hole | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Devil Doll | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
3rd go. 2nd go warm-up beta burn. cool but moist weather
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Di 15. Okt 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Must do.
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5.12b | ★★★ Bullet The New Sky | 26m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Took two falls (3rd and 4th)
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Di 15. Okt 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Beautiful climb. Much more comfortable belay if you scramble up the V0 boulder.
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Mo 7. Okt 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | |||||||
5.12a | ★ Hell Bound For Glory | 26m | ★ Gut | ||||
2nd try. unexpected high foot move at top
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So 1. Sep 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
first chimney ever
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Do 25. Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ The Warm-up | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Actually a lot of fun... layback moves through the crack were great.
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