The Monument Mostly Rock climbing 12 routes in area

The classic roof pitch that is best climbed by aiding Desert Crack (the finger intro) if you aren't up for the full 5.13- rig, and ripping it on lead from where the roof begins. Don't lower off the top anchor! Backjump to clean.

There are a few meandering approach trails, so go up the Black Velvet Canyon track until you're certain you can see it (on the right) and pick a trail that looks good.

Stays in the shade from early afternoon - perfect for a hot day.

Ben Frank Adventures video

Begin by climbing an approach pitch (5.9 PG13) on the left wall below the massive roof. This is actually quite enjoyable. Traverse right on a thin foot ledge towards loose blocks, or continue up a massive hollow flake and then move right. This leads to a bolted belay at a sloping stance. 35 meters.

Clip a bolt off the belay with a long runner and step left around the arete into a junky corner. Up this a few moves and then back onto the arete. Stretch right to the crack, place pro, and commit to the short but surprisingly steep finger crack. There is basically one move of each size - tips through hands - on the way to the roof, so no matter your hand size, there's a crux for you! Under the roof, cop a pumpy rest and avoid clipping the lowering bolt; instead launch outwards. #2 Camalots quickly widen to #3 Camalots at the lip where a jug awaits for pulling over to the top. For many this "11d" section proves to be the crux.

Backjump and lower from the bolt under the roof to clean.