Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Yosemite | |||||||
V0 | ★ Electrocution | 4m | |||||
???
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V2 | ★★ Yosemite Highball — 3 attempts | ||||||
V0 | ★★★ Y Crack | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sit start
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V0 ~V0- | ★★ Yosemite Crack | 4m | Average | ||||
Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | ||||||
Felt like actual progress.
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse — 3 attempts | 10m | |||||
V0 | Left Mack's | ||||||
V0 | ★★ Mack's Crack | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V0 | The Prow Right | 5m | |||||
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Send.
Foot slipped but recovered. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Did first moves and crux to warm up.
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 4 attempts | ||||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Just one attempt today. Was good!
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Third send attempt.
Last go of the day. Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Second send attempt.
Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough. Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor. |
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
Repeat with new heel hook beta. Feels less marginal.
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
Repeat with old beta.
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
Warming up, remembering subtle beta.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.
Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good. Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
First send attempt.
Went very well up to the sidepull. I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy. Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel. |
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Rocky Point | |||||||
Railroad Area Frisbee Boulder | |||||||
V1 ~V2 | Huck For Show | ||||||
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Trigger | 6m | |||||
???????
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V3 | Short Saddle — 7 attempts | ||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | ||||||
Tried working this after sending Loadies, but fingers didn't even want to pull on.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Slick 50 And Whale Area The Whale Boulder | |||||||
V0 | Moby Dick | 2m | Average | ||||
V1 | Whale Traverse | 6m | |||||
This was supposed to be a warm-up, but was too cold - it was in the shade.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V2 | Old Time Traverse | Average | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 4 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.
The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top. |
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 8 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My best session yet.
On my best attempt, I went from the start to the dyno but somehow slipped from the huge jug. My other attempts were not great. I kept falling off the second move, which usually feels easy for me. |
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V4 | Low Ship's Prow Traverse — 3 attempts | ||||||
Working first couple moves to warm up for Loadies Zen.
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V1 | ★ Steerage | ||||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V1 | Undercling Roof | 2m | |||||
V0 | ★★ Right Gangway | ||||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
The Lichen Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Lichen Crack | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V3 | Chocolate Chip Lichen | 3m | |||||
Somewhat different from beta described on mountain project: right hand to crimp, then bump right all the way to the top.
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V1 | ★★ Lichen Crack | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Great Slab | |||||||
V3 | ★★ The Wave | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
finally tried this classic.
very fun! did the ramp-less V3 variation. |
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Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Parking Lot Boulders Parking Lot Boulder C | |||||||
V0- ~VB+ | Parking Lot Crack | 3m | |||||
VB | Parking Lot Slabs | 3m | |||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V3 | Bottle of Rum — 2 attempts | ||||||
V1 | ★ Ship's Prow Slab | ||||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked the top and made good progress. Did the top dyno and top out for the first time. The dyno felt easy when it finally worked.
Felt ready for send goes. |
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V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Now that I have done all the moves in two sections, I made an actual "attempt" at sending. I didn't do the dyno - I felt that I didn't have finger power, but that might have been psychological.
Lost too much skin to give more good burns. |
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
VB | Left Gangway | 3m | |||||
V1 | ★ Ship's Prow Traverse | ||||||
V1 | ★ Overboard | ||||||
Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V0 | ★ Early Traverse | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | ★ Lemon-Lime | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V1 | Even Keel | ||||||
V2 | Tentacle | ||||||
V0+ | ★ Reverse Jam | ||||||
V1 | ★ Steerage | ||||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Green Drool | |||||||
V0 | Gd Right Arête | ||||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Working again.
Got beta which seems to work for the big move. I need to practice it and go further right on the ledge. |
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The bottom didn't feel quite as good as last time, but still went. Got close on the dyno after moving to higher feet.
Ended session with a bleeder. |
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Egg Swamp | |||||||
V7 | Swamp Thing | ||||||
Trying out some of the moves as a potential future project. Most moves feel too hard for me today, but would be fun otherwise.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Pedestal | ||||||
V1 | Hard Grunt | Average | |||||
Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Cave Roof | 3m | |||||
V6 Hard | ★★★ Ab Master | ★★★ Classic | |||||
V3 Hard | ★★ New Direction | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This felt like really good progress. The only move I didn't do was the dyno to the jug.
Feels like it could go this season if the weather holds out.. |
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V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 2 attempts | ||||||
Decided to have only 2 attempts today. More is likely to just burn skin.
On both attempts I touched the crucial hold but didn't latch it. |
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Pedestal | ||||||
Reasonable amount of progress. Need to work out how to get feet off the block.
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V6 | Hats Off | ||||||
Tried to pull on... Very sloper. Looks hard
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks — 4 attempts | ||||||
Finally sent this one after working it a bit more.
Beta:
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VB | Easy Jams | ||||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 2 attempts | 6m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | ||||||
Can make the big dead point reliably. Couldn't actually latch the hole. Seems like good progress.
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Tomato Boulders Upper Tomato | |||||||
V0 | Split Tomato | ||||||
V1 | Cherry Tomatoes | ||||||
V0 | Boiled Tomatoes | ||||||
V0 | Stewed Tomatoes | ||||||
V0 | Saucy | ||||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Lower Heart Boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V4 | ★★★ Static Heart — 5 attempts | ||||||
Very much a skin-of-the-teeth send. But a send.
The thin flake next to broken foothold works to layback. Was V3 before two key holds broke. Seems harder than that now. |
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V4 | Center Loadie | ||||||
??????‽
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V1 | ★ Right Loadie | ★ Good | |||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Neil's Lunge | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V6 ~V7 | ★★ Rump to Jump | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V4 ~V5 | ★★ The Pedestal — 5 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V0 | ★★ Mack's Crack | ★ Good | |||||
V1 | ★★ Mack's Face | ★ Good | |||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse — 2 attempts | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Iron Cross Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ Universal Problem | ||||||
V1 | ★ Super Slab | ||||||
V0 | Beginner's Delight | ★ Good | |||||
V2 | ★ Universal Problem | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
V5 | ★ Bunny Hop | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | ★★ Mack's Crack | ★ Good | |||||
V1 | ★★ Mack's Face | ★ Good | |||||
V2/3 | ★ Bunnyhop Variation | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V3 | ★ Ricky Racoon — 3 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Lilypad Boulders | |||||||
V1 | Warm-Up Akaturtle Flakes |