Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Cave Face | ★★ Very Good | |||||
V6 ~V7 | ★★ Rump to Jump | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ Neil's Lunge | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Neil's Lunge | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V3 Hard | ★★ New Direction | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | Roof Arete | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | Warm Up Crack | Don't Bother | |||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Fatboy Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Pocket Hercules — 8 attempts | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V5 | Hueco Spiders — 8 attempts | ||||||
Probably regressed from last session.
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V3 | ★★ Lip Service | ||||||
Nice to come back to this one I struggled on a long time ago and send first try.
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V0 | The Prow | 5m | Average | ||||
V0 | The Prow Right | 5m | |||||
V0 | Ship Dyno | Don't Bother | |||||
V3 | Bottle of Rum — 2 attempts | ||||||
V2 | Old Ironsides — 2 attempts | ||||||
V3 | ★ Ricky Racoon — 6 attempts | ||||||
Made a bunch of attempts on the dyno beta first. Didn't go.
Went first try with static beta. |
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Fatboy Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Pocket Hercules — 6 attempts | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Close! Got to the crux hold every try, but only latched it on the last two.
Need more skin to continue. |
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V5 | Hueco Spiders — 15 attempts | ||||||
Can make the first couple moves, but can't get heel-toe cam out without dabbing. Needs a different left foot??
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V4 | ★★ Pond Cave Traverse Variation | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Pretty good for an eliminate!
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V4 | ★★ Pond Cave Traverse Variation | ||||||
Foot popped at crux
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Beyond Summit Area Jade Boulder | |||||||
V1 | Black Jade — 2 attempts | 3m | |||||
V0 | Underground Methods | 3m | Don't Bother | ||||
Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Beyond Summit Area Iron Boulder | |||||||
V2 | Iron Face | 3m | |||||
Might have started slightly too far right?
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V1 | ★ Around The Corner | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | Size 2 | 3m | |||||
V1 | Pocket Face | 3m | |||||
V1 | Squeeze Play | 3m | |||||
V2 | Funky Face | 3m | |||||
Didn't fall off, but also didn't see any obvious beta.
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Ab Master | ||||||
Better than last time, but didn't manage the crux from the ground yet.
There are two options for the crux:
Wasn't feeling great. Dehydration? Knee still bothering me? Stopped after losing a lot of skin. |
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V3 ~V3 | ★★ New Direction | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#1
Easy. Locked off hard enough to pause and contemplate. |
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Felt easy once I went for the send. I have improved significantly since I last tried this.
No problem keeping my feet on those glassy nubs. |
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V5 | ★ Bunny Hop | 3m | |||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Rehearsed the last few moves.
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V0 | ★★ Mack's Crack | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Mack's Face | ||||||
Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Heart of Glass | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pulled off the ground ...
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Ab Master | ||||||
Feels doable.
The first few moves are easy. Moving to the axe head took a few attempts. Will be challenging to do that and have power remaining for the next move. |
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Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Went on first real try of the day.
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V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ||||||
Warmed up.
Worked out a beta for the end. Did all the moves in small sections. |
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Neil's Lunge | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V3 ~V3 | ★★ New Direction | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt easy on the first try at the end of a long session.
Big lock off strength improvements since a year ago? |
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V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
First few moves went easily. Couldn't make the move to the axe head. From the axe head to the end went no problem.
Feel much stronger than last year. |
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V0 | Easy Goin' | 3m | Don't Bother | ||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ||||||
Did all the moves in two overlapping sections.
Huge progress since a year ago when most of the line looked impossible. |
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V0 | Mack Attack | 3m | |||||
Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V2 | Black Bargue direct | Average | |||||
Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V4 | ★ Desperate Cling | ★ Good | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Throw Up | ★★★ Classic | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 4 attempts | ||||||
Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Great Slab | |||||||
V2 | ★★ The Wave | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | ★★★ Great Slab | ★★★ Classic | |||||
V2 | ★ Pocket Rocket | ★ Good | |||||
V2 | ★ Pocket Rocket | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ||||||
Got further than I thought was possible when I first looked at it last year.
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Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V0 | Dyno-tron — 4 attempts | Average | |||||
V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
V1 | Hard Grunt | Average | |||||
V1 | Hard Grunt | Average | |||||
Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones | |||||||
V4 | Bee's Knees | ||||||
V5 | Beehive Traverse | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V0 | Aorta | 2m | Average | ||||
Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V1 | The Ramp | ||||||
Not absolutely sure I was on 'The Ramp', just did a chalked up line that looked easy.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Yosemite | |||||||
V0 ~VB- | Generator Crack | 5m | Don't Bother | ||||
Accidentally did this as a downclimb.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Cave Warm Up | ★ Good | |||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Working the first few moves. Have forgotten much of the beta from last season.
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V3 ~V3 | ★★ New Direction — 2 attempts | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This felt much better than last season. Has my lockoff strength improved?
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2/3 | ★ Bunnyhop Variation — 4 attempts | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Just warming up.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 5 attempts | ||||||
Made a few attempts and it feels plausible.
On my second attempt I touched the hold but didn't feel confident actually grabbing it without injury at the end of a long session. |
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Yosemite | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Noontime Moss | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
There are a few suggestions of what exactly this climb is. I assumed that it started sitting at the bottom right of diagonal crack, then moved left into 'Y Crack' with no eliminates.
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V5 | ★ Glacier Polish — 2 attempts | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Did a couple other problems and came back to repeat. Went second try.
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V0 | ★★★ Y Crack | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V5 | ★ Glacier Polish — 7 attempts | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
One weird, tensiony move.
I used the pocket on the slab. Other sources say it's on. V5 seems to be the consensus grade. It did feel that hard before I did it. However, once I worked out how to get off the ground it didn't feel that hard. |
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V0 ~V0- | ★★ Yosemite Crack | 4m | Average | ||||
V0 | ★★★ Y Crack | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such solid hand jams.
Has recent practice worked or is this just the hand size perfect size for me? |
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V2 | ★★ Yosemite Highball — 2 attempts | ||||||
Not absolutely sure that the high right foot I used is on, but seemed V2ish that way?
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Lower Heart Boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V4 | ★★★ Static Heart — 6 attempts | ||||||
V1 | ★ Right Loadie | ★ Good | |||||
Couldn't pull into this when I tried it last fall, now goes no problem.
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V3 | Left Loadie — 3 attempts | ||||||
Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V3 | Chris' Taverse | Average | |||||
V1 Hard | ★ Palpitation | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 ~V0- | ★ Heart Crack | Average | |||||
V1 Easy | Change of Heart | 3m | Average | ||||
First attempt at this, but overlaps significantly with 'Heart Crack' and 'A Single Blade', so not a flash.
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V4 | ★★★ Heart of Glass | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked for a while, but my first attempt was the best..
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★ A Single Blade | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★ A Single Blade | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Heart of Glass | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked this for quite a while. Probably took an hour to get off the ground. This will go with luck and similar friction.
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Iron Cross Boulder | |||||||
V7 | Iron Cross Sit Start | ||||||
V0 | ★ Iron Cross Crack | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ Iron Cross | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Should have flashed but hesitated.
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V4 | ★★ Iron Cross | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sent it second go.
One of the better problems I've done lately. Having a decent armspan definitely helped. |
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Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Warm up on Mack's traverse.
Do all but the last move. |
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Sun 21st Nov 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Pond Cave Traverse Variation | ||||||
Can't work out the crux without feet on the left wall...
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V8 | Who Needs Huecos | 10m | |||||
Working dyno
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V4 ~V3 | ★★★ Pond Cave Traverse | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy compared to my first send a while back. Probably helped that I'd been (unsuccessfully) working the eliminate beta.
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Sun 21st Nov 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Boulder | |||||||
V4 V2 - 4 | Humpty Dumpty | 5m | |||||
Feet??
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V4 | The Humpty Hump | 6m | |||||
Very unclear that there are V4 feet on this. Did they flake off?
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Sun 21st Nov 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 V2/3 | ★ Bunnyhop Variation | 3m | |||||
Warming up
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V2 | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Warming up
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Sun 21st Nov 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
New more efficient beta: don't go to second undercling pinch. From the first, drop left knee on rail and go to axe head.
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Big first move with left hand. Right foot to nub between right hand and left foot. Left foot wide to level of starting crimps. Right hand to lip, bump to jug. Mantle.
#morpho