Ascents in Seneca having Beta

skipped crux climbed flakes on right

Think this or something similar is what we did

lead p1 p3

lead p1 p3

Paul Anikis and I did the first ascent of this route back in 1984. At the time we found the protection to be more that adequate through the crux. This was a time where very little was being protected with cams. Small to medium stoppers and hexes are all that is needed to protect this route. The upper face above the crux was a run out to the top on easier ground.

This is "Old Woman's Route"

First two pitches

VERY difficult and sustained at the start, and for the ensuing 35 ft. Harder than the given grade, IMO, and a serious lead.

Go under the buldge

on our way up to the summit

Great start to our 3 days of climbing

HARD moves on sketch pro; dangerous lead

Heady lead for 5.7; I found a scavenger hunt stash from 2012 on the upper corner crack! Good for the prize of a water bottle from the Gendarme

Great pitch. Requires varied technique. Lots of pro, but also lots of ledges.

Flake. Chimney. Fun varied climbing.

Followed ramp to the right off of East Face approach trail. Left facing corner. Good pro.

Excellent route. Follows a dihedral all the way up. Good rock quality. Eats gear.

Thin traverse. Requires good balance and technique. Very exposed.

Short, but classic. The overhang at the end is fun. Protects well with TCU's.

My first seneca lead

Missed 5th pitch. Swapped leads.

TRAD, NOT BAD

Sustained and go right at the traverse, not up. wires and a blue metolius will protect teh last move onto teh shuts which is a sustained clip/top out. If you wanted to finish teh route as it was originally climbed just head for the small tree 6 feet right of the shuts (easier).

Just did the first pitch

Did the last pitch up to the summit

Excellent climb with small gear and delicate moves down low!

awesome

AWESOME climb!

Boooooooooooooooooring

Did Easy Over (unintentionally) as a 2nd pitch.

This climb scared the crap out of me like Dufty's

Fun route - you can take it to the second pitch of Old Ladies or to the north end of Humprey's Head.

SCAaaaaaaaaaary!

Not the best line and pumpy through the crux...Nice top out though!

I think this is a classic for the grade. Climbed with Nate. Led p1 and p3.

Mother of God! did I ever screw up the traverse--way off route. Did ok once I got to the actual climb.

P1 only. Nice, a bit scary (by which I mean I had to change pants after) due to the huge pointy boulder at the bottom.

Easier than Old Man's IMHO. Not a ton of gear for someone new to leading, depending on how much faith you have in slung bushes.

"Praise Jebus and Hand Jams!!!" ~ verbal exclamation upon having my hand (actually fist, but same concept) jam epiphany on this climb.

My first lead at seneca

lead first pitch only

high quality face climbing

Very hard 9 for first 20 feet.