Ascents in Smith Rock State Park having Beta

I actually loved this climb. It flows really nicely, and when you get to the top, you look up at pitch two in awe of the amazing overhang. Hope I get to climb the whole thing one day

First time on this. Worked the crux (and the rest). Should go in a couple sessions. Crux is insanely thin for 12b

warm up

warm up

put mussy hooks on the anchor

massive benefit from stealing maxes beta for flash attempt dropped at about 1M from anchors but move was hella hard so would have fell anyway

Almost got it, ahhh well. Not sure if this is classic because it's good or classic because it was the first bolted face in Smith.

Regardless, it's got probably one of the coolest holds I've ever used on it. That weird spock/X grip in the crux is wild.

Rough!! But fun. Super unusual style for Smith.

Almost dropped it a few times but fuck the last move is a heartbreaker. Only just held it together, dynoing from an arete with my heel in my mouth to a thank-god jug at the anchor. Weirdly classic.

Less fun

Super fun

Came out of my tantrum-induced-retirement and got the send, thank goodness.

So nails, so movement specific. Never been on a more foot-placement focussed route.

Weirdly feels like the grade when you've worked out the beta. Very not straightforward.

4 days and like 10 shots? Lots of top roping and being bricked above bolts.

Fell at the top like an absolute punter, time to retire

Dog x 3. This thing makes me feel like such a shit climber lol.

Super varied movement for a relatively short route.

Got on this just to remind myself that I can climb stuff occasionally. Smiff hard yo.

Cool moves only a few crimps and pockets so my poor skin got a break. Kinda trad-ey

Still hard but can do the moves now

Feels over rated

Took a lot of work there was nothing powerful just thin insecure climbing top to bottom

Another couple of bashes up the sickest thing in existence.

Shits hard yo

First attempt was an absolute dog fest. Second I made some links and saw some progress, a few bits at top I havent figured out....

When I first tried this I thought maybe first or second go….then proceeded to not free any of the moves, not free any on top rope…my ego didn’t want to long term project a 24…but here I am. Today made some actual links. Linking everything seems daunting. Thin, thinner then anything I’ve tried pure face, no jugs to retreat and shake, insecure, minuscule feet, ten foot moves to one hand move from one painfully sharp crimp to another…

Pretty average rock in the bottom and top thirds, but the mid-section crux is awesome.

Probably on the softer side as well, considering it's right next to Latin Lover (which gets 12a) which I can barely pull onto. Grades are dumb.

Will I ever not dog this? If this is 12a then everything back home is soft

Awesome, puzzling, vertical-dyslexia inducing.

Super fun bouldery jugging. Took a few more shots than expected and paid a blood sacrifice on the way 🙏

stopper crux

Just barely pumped out of my brain

So hard. wtf. Super humbling

Steep climbing unique for smith rock

very fun

Super fun! Steep bouldery jugging

Got all the moves this time but Jesus fuck this thing is hard

Some of the most cryptic and consistently interesting climbing I've ever tried

Repeat because it's terrific

On our last day got it pretty well dialed to one fall. Took one of the bigger whips of my life punting off the jug before the final hard moves. Next time I’m in North America this will be high on the list for sure.

Doesn’t get much better!

Dropped the onsight by using the wrong hand. Went straight after

Thought this was nails but still learning the style I guess

Awesome and unlikely movement