Ascents in Taos having Beta

Really liked it. Plenty of balance, not too much hands. Can't believe I did it

I love this route. Did it 3 times. Good for making your balance better. Somewhat sustained.

After leading Chickenshit I followed Fritz up Chickenheads. He got some rope drag so I did a short exit lead as a thunderstorm started to dump on us. It rained twice that day.

First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.

Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.

Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.

Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.

We did it as two pitches. Fritz did the first; I did the second, which had a nice airy feel.

5.9 at crux only.

Seemed a lot harder than 5.9. Had to do some aid to get up it.

Felt good.

Only about 10' of the climb is 5.8. Climbed with Fritz.

Don't bother. . .unless you like to get beat up a bit in an offwidth.

TR

TR

This wasn't my first lead up this route but it was clean.

This is always a good warm up lead for me after no climbing for a while. A little cool at the start; but it warmed up nicely.

Good, but over too soon.

Top roped as 5.10a, by taking a variation bypassing the 5.11 section

Fritz found this route, but I'm sure someone has climbed it before us. The 5.10 part is only about 2 moves at the bottom. the rest is easier.

Ended up working on our favorites in the area

Tough 5.9 overhang, Then I took a mostly unremitting 5.7+/5.8 face somewhat left of the actual(easier)route.

Coulden't quite do the regular Zorro route crux, so did the variation instead.

Both times I climbed it I was off a bit to the left of the bolts, making the face climb more intense. Someday I will follow the bolts.

Led most of it, but traded off and Fritz led the crux, so he gets lead credit. Route starts to the left of Chickenshit at a tree following cracks and depressions under a bulge at one's left and arcing across the top of a friction face to end at the top of Chickenshit. No record of this route, but someone probably did it as it is in an area with some 5.10's and 5.11's.

Nice friction pitch with some runout

Got up it twice. Yay.

Almost all of the climb is offsize. Requires Number 5 and 6 Camalots to protect. We don't have any that big, so we had to toprope it. Bypassed the crux on 5.8 friction.

I had a bit of trouble in the crux zone, where the left wall and the right face roll into a crack. Done w/Fritz leading.

Possible gear placements render it PG-13.

5.5 X for adults, 5.6 X for kids. This route is charming, on greenish bumpy rock between unnamed 1 and Gila Monster. Goes up to tree. Kids should love it toproped.

climbed it with screwed up ankle, so Fritz gave me a little tension over crux. Taking a week off to heal.

awesome climb, jackson book has bad route descriptions on the 4th pitch

Practiced here after I could not quite lead the crux on Pony Express.

More fun than it used to be.

Some rope drag. One of my placements didn't help that. Mostly slinged chickenheads for pro.

Not the best warmup! Did it because it had a leaver biner and didn't look too hard from the ground... that'll learn me

Guidebook says R but didn't seem too bad. Super good and sustained! A real winner.

Great climbing! Not as sustained as Techtonics next door but just as good.

Mostly friction with some runout. Weather, perfect.

Repeated climb varying route. Variations interesting too.

Hard enough to be interisting. Do-able enough to be fun. Slips past the toughest cruci on Ground Up (10 b/c).

Route zigs considerably to arete on the right. That was where Ed's mind was lost.

Got a free try on this one. Used other climbers toprope to set our own. Most pro needed to lead it is tiny stuff; I'll pass.

Two and 1/2 practice ascents. Had to work out the crux. A family with two subteen girls climbing something slightly tougher, so I can't climb as good as a fifth grader.

Route we took to chains for Ground Up and How Ed Lost His Mind.

Some of rock feels as if it has little ball bearings on it.