Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 30th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
15 5c | ★ Bread and Butter | 23m, 10 | |||||
Repeat. Happy new year Vietnam!
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15 5c | ★ Bread and Butter | 23m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat
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6c+ | ★★ Brian's"Closed" Project (Brian's Project) | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Punchy moves down low and a fun lip turn at the top
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7a+ 7a | ★★ Obama 101 | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice finger lock work down low into fairly easy jug pulling for the rest of the route
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7b | ★★ Muhammad Ali | 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Blew the onsite just shy of the anchors, easy second shot. Great moves in the top section.
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Tue 28th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
16 6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express | 19m, 9 | |||||
Repeat
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7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | |||||
Second shot, got the girly version crux move! So marginal. But fingers are so bruised I can't climb anymore today.
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7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
1st shot today, first 28, went perfectly, very happy with this. Great route.
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16 6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat warmup
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8a+ | Roman's Karmic Curse | 17m, 10 | |||||
Dogged this up to see what it was like, to the fifth bolt was easy, one moderate and then just a sea of non-holds most of the way to the anchor.
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Mon 27th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6b 6b+ | ★★ Very Tot | 21m, 11 | |||||
Repeat.
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7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | |||||
3 shots. Nearly got crux. Can't reach hold like the boys so have to add a finger lock plus 2 more moves. Makes it very exciting but bruises my fingers. Pain will be the decider on this one...
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Mon 27th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Hidden Valley / The Farm | |||||||
7b | ★★ Next Time Get It (2) | 26m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2 shots, hard to read move getting out from underhang - perhaps I think this might be a 7b+? Got some beta after the fact that might (?) make this easier. Unusual and funky moves and holds and a kicker at the finish! (Climb relogged someone screwed up the order and naming)
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6a+ | ★★ Ich Will In Dich Sein (3) | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Feel about the same as the 6b next door, perhaps gets the extra grade perhaps not a bit hard to call
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6a 6b | ★★ Bozo's Big Day (4) | 21m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5a 6b | ★★ Thank You Sir (5) | 21m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Fairly straightforward climbing, best place to start for a warm up
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5c+ 5b | ★ Ants In My Pants (6) | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
A bit of an overhanging start perhaps pushes this more to the 6a end of the grade, harder than the other 5. This one was very new perhaps only an ascent or two old, needs a bit more traffic to clean up
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Mon 27th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6b 6b+ | ★★ Very Tot | 21m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat warmup
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7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3 more shots today, high pointing on the 2nd. Getting closer
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Sun 26th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Hidden Valley / The Farm | |||||||
6b 7b | ★★ Next Time Get It (2) | 26m, 14 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Ich Will In Dich Sein (3) | 18m, 10 | |||||
6a 6b | ★★ Bozo's Big Day (4) | 21m, 10 | |||||
5a 6b | ★★ Thank You Sir (5) | 21m, 10 | |||||
5b+ 5b | ★ Ants In My Pants (6) | 10m, 5 | |||||
7b 7b+ | ★★★ Shampoo Effect (1) | 17m, 8 | |||||
Bit harder than 7b I think. Great start then the crux is nails!
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Thu 23rd Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Bolts 'R' us | 16m, 8 | |||||
chicken. not actually that hard but first time around a bit daunting...
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6b | ★★ The Feeling of Freedom | 19m, 10 | |||||
repeat
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7a | ★★ Up Syndrome | 20m, 13 | |||||
felt like the hardest climb I've been on at this grade. a real mental struggle at the top....
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7a 6c | ★★ 50/50 | 20m, 10 | |||||
not too hard
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6c 6b+ | ★★★ Elephant Man | 20m, 10 | |||||
quite fun. very enjoyable
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6c+ | ★★ Bolts 'R' us | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Pumpy and punchy climbing, ticked it but with no real style just thructhed it.
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6b | ★★ The Feeling of Freedom | 19m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat warm up
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6c 6b+ | ★★★ Elephant Man | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent delicate feet and hand movement, quality moves
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7a 6c | ★★ 50/50 | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
As the name suggests it drifts into the routes on either side a little bit too much but still very enjoyable climbing
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7a | ★★ Up Syndrome | 20m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stay right at the last bolt for the full value of this route, great moves all the way
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Wed 22nd Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6b 6b+ | ★★ Very Tot | 21m, 11 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | |||||
first shot was promising. thought I had worked out the moves...
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7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | |||||
second shot was actually worse. can really feel my lung infection slowing me down. two parts of the crux, I have the second part worked out and will try the first part scotts way... when I have some more energy. really flailed at the roof this shot. no juice in the tank at all!
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Very Tot | 21m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good fun climbing, lots of varity in the moves on most good holds
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7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had trouble trying to work out a sequence on the crux first and 2nd time around, think I have something sorted now. Nice climbing.
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Sun 19th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
5b 5c | ★ Vu Duyen | 8m, 7 | |||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Hunting Double Rainbows | 20m, 12 | |||||
6b | ★★ The Feeling of Freedom | 19m, 10 | |||||
6a | ★ Dublin Mudslide | 25m, 12 | |||||
6b+ 6b | ★★ The Grass Is Always Greener | 23m, 13 | |||||
6b 6a+ | ★ Moustache Massage Man | 8m, 7 | |||||
7b | ★★★ Prayer Of The Mantis | 20m, 11 | |||||
chickened out first go. really gotta start trying harder but then I am still recovering from the flu/lung infection...excuses excuses... wasn't that hard really....
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6b | ★★ The Feeling of Freedom | 19m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great fun climbing
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Hunting Double Rainbows | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great layaway and finger locks
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7b | ★★★ Prayer Of The Mantis | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b 6a+ | ★ Moustache Massage Man | 8m, 7 | Average | ||||
Didn't really dig this one
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5b 5c | ★ Vu Duyen | 8m, 7 | Average | ||||
Ok
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6b+ 6b | ★★ The Grass Is Always Greener | 23m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
A snake in one of the holes on route on this, kinda freaked me out a bit
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6a | ★ Dublin Mudslide | 25m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Bit dirty in the midsection but good moves down low and up high
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Sat 18th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Hidden Valley / The Farm | |||||||
5c 5c+ | ★★ Jail Bait | 10m, 4 | |||||
Actually did this on our first trip but whoever merged the routes were off by one.
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5c 5c+ | ★★ Jail Bait | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed this 2 years ago
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Sat 18th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
15 5c | ★ Bread and Butter | 23m, 10 | |||||
22 6c | ★★ Cracker Jack | 21m, 12 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Buffalo Love | 26m, 15 | |||||
wow. amazing route!
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6a+ 6a | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't | 24m, 12 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Buffalo Love | 26m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stella crack and bridging work
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6a+ 6a | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't | 24m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting moves and weird holds in the 2nd half
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22 6c | ★★ Cracker Jack | 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crumbly rock down low, great juggy moves most of the rest of the way
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15 5c | ★ Bread and Butter | 23m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting move down low for an easy route
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Fri 17th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
7c | ★★ Flight of the Bumble Bee | 28m, 13 | |||||
one move! got to last hold before the dyno/crappy hold. will come back to this once I've recovered from the flu...maybe..
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18 6a+ | ★★ Mother Butterfly | 29m, 13 | |||||
16 6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express | 19m, 9 | |||||
20 6b | ★ Argentina's Delight | 29m, 13 | |||||
6b+ 6c | ★★ Place Your Nuts Right | 12m, 7 | |||||
18 6a+ | ★★ Mother Butterfly | 29m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great moves, esp in the top section
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20 6b | ★ Argentina's Delight | 29m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice climbing, slightly spicy move at the top
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6b+ 6c | ★★ Place Your Nuts Right | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great long route, pay attention to placing a few long slings in the lower pitch or the rope drag may haunt you on this one. Great on an 80m rope, I am not sure a 70 will make it to the ground, suggest rethreading 1st anchor
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7c | ★★ Flight of the Bumble Bee | 28m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Clean til above the last bolt. Not back to full strength yet, will have to come back for this one.
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16 6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Cruisy warmup
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Wed 15th Jan 2014 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
14 5c | ★★ Reggae Rocks (Roots Reggae) | 27m, 13 | |||||
6b | ★★ You Enjoy Myself | 20m, 11 | |||||
14 5a | ★ Chuyen Nui | 20m, 10 | |||||
first climb in Vietnam. first climb after yet another week in bed with yet another illness....
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14 5a | ★ Chuyen Nui | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
14 5c | ★★ Reggae Rocks (Roots Reggae) | 27m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★★ You Enjoy Myself | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Punchy
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Mon 30th Dec 2013 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Elephant Man | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My favorite climb from my trip which consist of: 50/50, Where the Wild Things Aren't, You Enjoy Yourself.
This climb is a good and easy climb with a little bit of cracks, slab and a mini roof! along with a variety of different holds. This was listed as a 6c but it felt more like a 6b or 6b+. Which is a 5.10b/5.10c (US) or 19/20(AU). |
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6c+ 6c | ★★ 50/50 | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Pumpy crux is at the start, after the first clip in, reachy boulder move with left hand in a good undercling and right hand going up for a crimp. It was more of a mental problem for me since this was right after the first clip so I wasn't well protected. I wussed out a few time during this move but eventually got it clean.
I would say that this climb is more like a 6c+, 21-22 or 5.10d-5.11a. So do not be intimidated! |
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5c+ 6a | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't | 24m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy warm up. Nothing memorable.
This was listed as a 6a+ but it was more like a 5c+. |
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6b | ★★ You Enjoy Myself | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
Climb ends in a cool mini cave.
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Tue 24th Dec 2013 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express | 19m, 9 | |||||
5c | ★ Bread and Butter | 23m, 10 | |||||
5c | ★★ Reggae Rocks (Roots Reggae) | 27m, 13 | |||||
6c | ★★ 50/50 | 20m, 10 | |||||
Soft
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5c | ★ Vu Duyen | 8m, 7 | |||||
6a+ | ★ Moustache Massage Man (Mustache massage man) | 8m, 7 | |||||
6a | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't | 24m, 12 | |||||
6b | ★★ You Enjoy Myself | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Very Tot | 21m, 11 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Elephant Man | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 26th Nov 2013 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't - with Craig | 24m, 12 | Average | ||||
A big warm-up
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4a+ 5a | ★ 5 Fun - with Beatrice, Elisa | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Good with dry season. I haven't try the wet one but I can say it'll be bloody messy…
Elisa lost her ear-ring here, and it was nice climbing with these 2 girls.
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Thu 21st Nov 2013 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
5b 5c | ★ Vu Duyen (Vo Duyen) | 8m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice warm up, some awkward positions but no crux.
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Wed 13th Nov 2013 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6b 6a+ | ★ Moustache Massage Man - with Beatrice | 8m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting moves, face climbing with tricky start and end, love the mermaid move before reaching the anchor.
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6b+ 6b | ★★ The Grass Is Always Greener - with Beatrice | 23m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Doesn't as easy as it's look like. Nice start up with sharpie holds, pinches. Struggling at middle of the route with some mental moves… Getting easier at the top, same time with being pumped.
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Sun 10th Nov 2013 - Cat Ba Island | |||||||
Butterfly Valley | |||||||
6c | ★ A Dengue Ate My Davey | 19m, 10 |