Routes as sport in Walpole

On the section of blank wall between Silence of the Cams and Dickheads and Dynosaurs (directly below Skippy Goes Splat). Start up Inshallah to second bolt and head straight up wall on Fixe bolts. Technical, thin and awesome rock. Lower of leaver biner or continue to anchor above Inshallah.

Another classic route following a technical golden vein of fixed hangers. Beware, bolts may be rusted. There are visible rust stains coming out of bolts down rock. May need to be re-bolted,

Start as for Zeepaard, but go straight over the roof directly.

Start 2m left of chimney and climb face, past four bolts to roof and go right to top out.

Excellent face climbing on delicate holds following line of FH.

Midway between Butter Fingers and Silence of the Cams is a new independant line. Great climbing, clean rock (despite the lichen/drip line) and memorable moves. Boulder up to the first bolt, suck in your belly and sneak carefully left. Up and then pounce back right (crux) and up to a good stance. A few more moves and the angle eases and you can romp home to Wreckage Ledge. Lots of fun. Could be 23. Who knows.

Enjoyable and sustained slab climbing. 10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams for the overlaps.

1. 35m (15): Start as for Stoned Alone to last bolt, then trend right to belay at rings.

2. 40m (19): Straight up steep face then easier ground to belay at rings.

Start 5m right of Free Burma. Very well protected. 11 bolts (hangers needed). Lower off 2m right of Free Burma lower-offs.

Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance. Need 9 bolt plates and 10 draws.

1. 40m (15): Start 10m left of Free Burma and same as start for Lambs to the Slaughter. Up easy slab and cross Ian's Lost Chance on a slabby bridge. Continue up slab, trending left to DBB at rings below a steeper wall. 7 bolts

2. 40m (18): L and up the vertical wall. Continue up easy ground to DBB at rings.

Descend as Dream Weaver.

Water streak 10m right of Trick or Treat. Need plates for 8 bolts, belays are U-bolts. Clips can be exciting

1. 30m (18): Slab past 7 carrot bolts to DBB.

2. 30m (18): Slab past 8 carrot bolts to DBB.

3. 25m (14): Up past 5 bolts to DBB.

Start 15m R of Free Burma. 10 bolts (hangers required).

Nice slab climbing with carrot bolts and a few medium cams. Starts 20m right of Where Eagles Dare and 30m left of Dream Weaver. First pitch is the only good one. Hangers required.

1. 30m (17): Up slab past 5 bolts to short L-trending cracks (medium cams), then to DBB.

2. 30m (13): Up mossy slap past 4 more bolts to left facing corner. Continue up corner to more bolts and natural pro to DBB.

3. 27m (11): Mostly trad with a trad belay.

he white water streak 10m R of Burmese Tiger. 9 bolts (hangers required. Can be mossy and wet.

Start below the gully of 'Ian's Lost Chance' as for Stoned Alone. R-trending diagonal slab climbing formed by a dyke crossing the lower slab up to The Terrace. 2 hangers. 3rd bolt is a carrot shared with Free Burma. When you clip that keep going right with your feet on the dike.