Vías en Africa para grado seleccionado

P1: Climb the crack to a bolted stance on the left. P2: Climb up past 2 bolts to the top.

Start about 2m left of 'Solitaire'. Climb a blunt arête to a ledge. Follow the thin black water streak with some committing moves above the ledge. About halfway up the streak, you need to make a move left and up for 1m to a thin crack on a flake, before moving right again. At the next ledge move slightly right to a vague corner and then easily to the top.

Climb the steep smooth face between Maidens Triumph & Phenominal Existence without using the corner on the left or crack on the right. The first move is especially hard for short climbers. Try avoid the left corner and crack on the right.

Climb the black streak and grey overhanging wall above it, to the right of 'Human Highway'.

5 Star FA C Edelstein (TR)

Start is below the crack to the right of 'Psycho Man'.

1. [22] 25m

   Climb the steep crack to the roof and pull through strenuously on jams. Stance just above on a ledge system in common with 'Psycho Man' and 'Master of Insanity'

2. [22] 35m

   Continue up the crack system to attain the base of the pinnacle and climb the left side of the pinnacle onto the face. Continue up the face into the jam cracks in common with 'Psycho Man'

Fernkloof forms a short narrow gorge just before it opens out to the north. Halfway down the steep left hand wall of this gorge is an upstream facing dihedral.

1. 20m 23 Climb the dihedral, move right, and continue up a groove to the top.

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

Between JELLYBEANS and SCHWEESICLES on the same side of the kloof. Start as for JELLY BEANS.

1. 25m 22 Up crack until handrail is reached. Right along rail to arete. Step up and continue up corner until next rail. Back left to finger crack. Up crack to top.

Start at the base of running on empty. Climb diagonally left across the blankish face up to the ledge which is visible. Gear is not that great.

• ie very shit!, ends on ledge.

Start 90m left of SKIN THE CAT. A long roof can be seen 70m up. Start directly below the notch in the roof. Scramble 12m up LHS of pillar to a ledge.

1. 50m 19 Up flake on right for 8m. Move left on to face, up tree roots to tree. Up groove (becomes a flake) then up wall. Traverse right to ledge, up, back left into corner and up the ledge.

2. 35m 19 Up to next ledge, then up right to pull through right hand V-notch. Up to grass ledge. Walk 30m right and up to under steep cave and scramble up. (25m left of SKIN THE CAT).

3. 35m 21 Move up about 5m left of corner and move through roofs at their smallest. Diagonally up rightwards to crack, up this, then left to ledge.

4. 25m 20 Up to cubby hole under roof. Pull through and up right to ledge.

5. 35m 20 Up and diagonally left across slab to below steep gnarly rock. Pull through and up to stance at base of chimney.

6. 40m 22 Delicate Slab Pitch: Up chimney and out onto wall above. Up crack system straight up to ledge. Traverse 12m right to base of corner behind tree.

7. 50m 18 Up corner/crack, move left onto arête at top, follow nose straight to top. Scramble to the top.

A large overhang (split by a gnarly crack) about 20m up is located on the left side of the kloof about 15m upstream of VARIETY. Start at the base of a large boulder next to the face.

1. 30m 23 Climb the slightly right-leaning crack bounding the upstream side of the large overhang.

Samson opened this variation inadvertently when he went off route. He started with a rope and a partner but had to untie when his belayer reached the end of the rope. With no anchor in sight and no chance of downclimbing, Samson forged ahead into the unknown and into the realm of legend.

1. Shared with Sunset Warrior.

2. NOT PROTECTED. Climb the groove above, but instead of traversing left continue straight up the groove and then face to the crux at around 25m. Keep going until you run out of rope (untie from the rope) and solo up to the top. Belayer has to rap back down.

Start from the ledge, left and behind the bushes on the left side of the crag, and the line heads diagonally right until the head wall, where it goes straight up to the tree.

Climb the hand crack through the small roof. Continue up to a bolted stance.

P2:(22/23)Trad. FFA: G.Bird & J.Wakeling 2019. Second pitch continues straight up to the top. No anchors at the top.

A varied pitch left of 'Green Eggs and Ham' on the right-hand side of the 'Solitaire Wall'.

Start at the corner crack on the right of the 'Solitaire' face. Climb up about 8m to a slightly bulging face. Some tricky moves to a ledge (avoid the enormous, balanced, cigar-shaped rock). Climb the left side of the vague arête to an overlap. Traverse left and up and then pull through the right side of the next roof to the juggy face above. Straight to top.

Start about 3m to the right of the start of LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE below the fig tree. Climb up to the rail and up on small grips to a small recess to the left of a nose and to the right of a fig tree. Climb up this for 3m to easier ground which is followed to the top.

This route is a SLIPSTREAM eliminate.

1. 30m 23 Starts as for SLIPSTREAM. Through the crux of SLIPSTREAM and where SLIPSTREAM moves right, climb the awkward corner as for RHYTHM OF YOUTH. Reach up and clip the pegs above the bridge of the "nose" (hence the name). Surmount the nose (crux) and climb directly up the steep wall exiting slightly left and onto the ledge.

Note: Although only the second part of the route is new, the new section offers powerful moves in a fairly "airy" position on excellent rock.

This is the obvious natural line which ascends the centre of the buttress. [21] for the first 15' only. Ascend the thin righiwards sloping crackline past two bolts to a groove. Climb this awkwardly and make a difficult step left onto a ledge. Move up short bulging wall to tree stump. and follow cracks above leftwards to another bulging wall which is climbed. Traverse left around corner then up rightwards to top.

Historic route number: 6

1. [21] 18m

2. [21] 10m

3. [23] 12m

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its right hand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. 25m 22 Climb straight up the open book forming the left hadn side of the recess and through the roof to the ledge with a tree.

Climbs the centre of the next clean face to the left of Running on Empty. Starting just left of the lower roofs, pull up on jugs to start (roof one metre off ground).  Climb up over a loose flake to a short open book above.  Break through the roof where a block has fallen out (peg).  Climb directly through the bulge above, exiting up the crack. * There is an aid route to the right of the next route that goes through the large roof and onto the superb face above.  Opened by Gerald Camp using 2 nut scratchers for hooks!

Climbs the obvious stepped corner system on the east face of the south Donjon. The route starts up a corner left of a 6m high pillar next to the rock face.

1. 43m 19 Climb the corner exiting left and up to the ledge on top of some flakes.

2. 38m 17 up the front of the pillar for a few metres then into corner on the right and up to traverse line. Traverse right and up to ledge beneath roofs.

3. 41m 22 Climb up corner/peapod/groove/chimney above to a stance below large roof (Originally climbed as 2 pitches (20A1 and 19A1) with a hanging belay).

4. 40m 20 Traverse right under roof and climb corner/chimney above to ledge on arête. (Originally 2 pitches, 19A1 and 19).

5. 40m 18 Climb the corner past a tree to a bushy ledge. Climb diagonally left up lichen-covered face to belay in gully.

Scramble rightwards up the gully then walk right along the ledge to another gully which is followed to the top.

Climbs directly up the right hand wall of the STRAIGHT EDGE corner.

1. 20m 23 Climb up the centre of the wall, heading for the rhombohedral-block sticking out above. Notes:

2. Two (pre-placed) fixed pitons provided additional protection at 5m and 15m.

3. A good selection of medium wire nuts is useful e.g. doubles of sizes equivalent to Rocks 2 and 3.

Climb the thin corner crack to a compulsory mantle onto the slope, and finish up an easy off-width that leads to the top of the slab.

Gear: Small nuts and cams for the crack and mid-sized cams for the belay.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone about 10m right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 30m 22 Climb the obvious cracks up the wall to the break. Traverse left to the top of the first pitch of 'Sidewinder-Direct' and 'The Day Of The Smells'.

Excellent line that gets progressively more challenging. Start off a Ladies Tee towards the right corner of the crag: beneath an undercling at the bottom of a small left facing corner. Basically the line takes the big open book all the way to the top, however we strongly recommend stepping left about 5m up over the undercut to take the face above. Then reunite with the open book to the top. The line at the top avoids the feature taken by SO.

Aesthetic face climbing. A slightly committing start onto the face leads to the intermittent vertical crack in the middle of the wall. Follow the crack and where it peters out continue straight up the orange rock (crux) to a wide rail. Move slightly right and up the grey rock to finish.

P1: 35m (17). Start up the corner system 5m to the right of Vulture Culture. Climb up to a ledge and continue straight up the crack system to where it is topped by a small roof. Move 1m left to a Hanging stance.

P2: 30m (23). Move up into a corner, step right above the roof and then move back left into a crack . Follow this up to a stance below the prominent chimney/slot.

P3. 30m (18). Climb up the chimney/slot. At the top, move 2m right, pull through the overlap into a crack and follow this to stance at a ledge.

P4. 30m (17). Move 5m left. Climb the vertical recess leading up to the lunch ledge.

P5. 20m (19). At the top of P4 is a face with a set of vertical cracks. Climb the vertical crack second from the right hand edge of the face to a ledge.

P6. 15m (17). Move left to a crack system and continue 3m up to a stance.

P7. Climb up the face and traverse left into the large chimney system. Continue to the top.

Walk about 50m right of the grooves on a ledge below an overhang with a Y-Shaped crack in orange and grey rock.

1. Climb around the left-hand side of the roof and up the corner. Take the right-hand fork of the Y. Climb up to a stance behind a block on the right.

2. Traverse right around the skyline and zig-zag up the ramp.

3. Take-off the right-hand side of the ledge and up the crack/recess.

4. Climb the recess on the left.

5. Start on the left, move right and up a crack. Go left and up to a ledge.

6. Start on the right and move up leftwards on jugs. Continue up the face and then move diagonally right through small overhangs onto a ledge leading to the right of a pinnacle block.

7. Climb to a ledge just higher (10m).

8. Climb up in the open-book to a rest. Either stem up and move right, or move right and climb up further around. Continue up an easier break and groove to a belay.

9. Climb the steep recess, move right at the top.

10. Step left and pull through the overlap. Climb up to massive overhangs. Move to the right and follow the recess to the top.

Features a strenuous start followed by a good mix of climbing styles. Start in the same place as Dogmatix.

1. 20 m (22) Start up Dogmatix for ~3m. At the rail below the roof traverse ~3m right until able to pull strenuously up into a corner. Follow the corner for several meters and then step left and up to a stance on a ledge.

2. 20 m (20) Head straight up and then slightly right to pull through the thin roof at its narrowest point. Continue up slabs and a tiny corner (micro cams useful) to a gargantuan ledge.

3. 40 m (18) Start 7m right of Dogmatix at a monster pocket containing a small cairn. Climb up to a break, then up on orange flakes to the right of a projecting block. Continue up a short corner to a ledge, then another 5m to the next large ledge.

4. 15 m (16) This pitch is actually 'Dogmatix' last pitch. Use a massive layback flake to gain a ledge, then move left to a prominent corner. Climb the recess to the roof, step left, and up to a rail. Pull right and over the roof and then easily up to a ledge.

Descent: The descent scramble/ abseil is about 30m in front of you when you top out.

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of 'Coming of Pride', with the big German-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on 'Little Bitch'.

Above the right hand side of the boulders mentioned in THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT is an obvious v-shaped break in the roof above. Pull up initial overhang using underclings to the rail, continue up to break, then climb through break (crux) to easier ground, continue up vague recess above to the top.

Opposite SLIPSTREAM, and further upstream, is a rock buttress with two large, triangular roofs. IRON SOUL climbs a steep buttress to the left of these roofs. TWILIGHT OF IDOLS climbs a roof with a jam-crack between the steep buttress and the twin roofs.

1. 35m 22,A1 Climb up a short corner directly below the jam crack in the roof and traverse right for 2m. Continue up the recess above (there is a tree root growing diagonally right across the face) and climb through the 2m roof. Continue to top.

Start 15' right of 'Broken Arrow' where there is a groove below a prominent tree with grey roots. [21] for the first 15' only. Difficult moves up past two bolts lead to groove. Follow this up leftwards to vertical tree roots. Climb these with difficulty into tree. Ascend the crack above to the top.

Historic route number: 12

Start as KaKa-Boom but from the rail traverse right and climb up diagonally right finishing up a black pocketed wall.

Ultra Violet (23) * 310 m (20, 23, 21, 19, 23, 20, 20, 19, 18, 17, 18) A shorter rap in and climb out route that delivers some great pitches below the Red Giant Cave. Recommended strategy is to rap in and climb out in a day, or rap to Red Giant Cave if you want a night on the wall. Start: On the large ledge at the short pillar.

1. 25m (20, 3B) Start from the pillar, up past 3 bolts then tend slightly left to ledge, traverse to left end of ledge to a bolted stance.

2. 15m (23, 2B) The Milner Pitch. From a good rail, up on positive holds without gear to the first bolt. Straight up the intermittent crack past another bolt to a ledge. Traverse a few meters right to belay.

3. 15m (21, 1B) Up to a small roof and past 1 bolt to the face above. Step right and up a groove until able to step back left to vague ledge. Belay ~2m further left below shallow recess.

4. 35m (19) Climb the right facing recess for ~20m to a ledge (under the big overhanging corner), traverse left ~10m with an entertaining step down at the left end and then up to belay at the base of the open book.

5. 20m (23, 1B) Up the corner past one bolt to exit on top a platform. Continue up and right to good ledge and belay in the middle of back wall.

6. 30m (20) Up the orange rock, step left and up to find a good finger rail (do not climb higher to another rail). Traverse hard left and pull up to a rising crack system on the right. Follow this and pull left round an overlap to a stonking, exposed layback crack to the ledge. Bolted stance (rap route)

7. 40m (20) Crux of this pitch is route finding - good luck! Start up the wide crack to a ledge, move ~3m right, and aim for a broken crack system 5m above. Up this to a roof and traverse left (do not take flared hand jam crack) but further left to easier ground. Up ~10m to a rail, traverse right ~4m to recces and up to an alcove.

8. 25m (19) Mantle up and traverse left to a series of grooves, that lead up into a wide open book. Belay at the ledge (bolted stance, rap route). Traverse left into the cave and next pitch starts in middle of cave as for pitch 14 of Red Giant.

9. 30m (18) Pull through the roof of cave and then tend right. Follow line of least resistance up a wide recess and move left after ~30m to a stance shared with Red Giant on a narrow ledge.

10. 30m (17) As for Red Giant. Up the cracks to a roof, followed by a short rising traverse to the right. Above is a shallow corner, but take the next recess to the right. Continue up the ramp to a bolted stance.

11. 45m (18) Head up several meters and left to a break, traverse back right to ooze up into the base of a wide gash. Do a move or two up then step left on featured rock and straight up, finishing on easy ground.

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

A few small nuts (micros) are useful as protection.

"The name says it all - Yosemite-style hand-jamming up a slightly overhanging crack"

Gear: Several large cams and a couple hexes.

The route follows the face between 'Juniper Face' and 'Dassie Route'. It gains a ledge below a prominent overhang about 20m above the base and then surmounts the overhang via a V-groove.

1. 20m 22 Ascend a short face, directly below the prominent overhang to a ledge. Gain the next higher ledge by ascending the steep face via a thin crack to the right of the centre of the face (crux). This variation was done on a top rope by both members of the opening party.

2. 30m 15, A1 Ascend diagonally right to the overhang just below the V-groove. Place piton as high as possible in the groove and use it to move up into the groove and onto the face above the overhang. Continue upward to a large ledge.

3. 40m 13 Continue up face to large ledge.

4. 15m 9 Up easy rock to the top.

Variation 1a. 20m 10 The crux of pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing 3m left and ascending the chimney to a grassy ledge (in common with 'Juniper Face'). Then traverse right for about 3m to a stance in a recess.

Supposedly 22. Take the series of overlapping open books as it tackles the steep wall. At the top the route traverses right to take a prow through to an easy head wall then the top.

1. 10m (15) Scramble up into the sandy cleft and then up the wide crack on the right-hand wall to reach a ledge below the crack.

2. 25m (22) Climb into the crack (some sandy sections) and follow it all the way to the top.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. Rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m) at the good rail where the rock (quality) above deteriorates.

About 50m left of 'Heck, Tick'. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

About 5m to the right of HOT CANARY is a short corner topped by a roof. To its right, above 2 large, flatish boulders are 2 smooth, overhanging bulges. Straddle up the corner to the roof, then rail right above the first bulge to a cramped position. Pull through second bulge strenuously until the grade eases, then continue up ridge above (excellent dynamic moves).

The aesthetic arête on the wall opposite 'Little Bitch', and left of a large tree up the slope from 'Funky Fruit'. Excellent climbing, sparse gear. Start on the left and follow the arête with a triangular recess about halfway up. Look for cunning gear placements on the right wall. Small nuts/cams and micro nuts recommended.

Approximately 50m upstream from DOGSTYLE, on the same side of the kloof, an open book may be seen above a large grassy ledge. The route follows the open book and layback crack above to a ledge, then ascends a second open book to top.

1. 22m 22 Scramble/traverse to grassy ledge 10m above stream level. From the grassy ledge chimney or straddle up open book, passing a small bulge, to reach more positive holds above. Ascend crack to ledge with a small tree belay.

2. 40m 11 From the ledge ascend easy rock to a second ledge then traverse light for 4m to the base of a second open book. Ascend open book to top. A pleasant pitch.

Start about four metres left of 'Trader Horn' at a short crack. Up this then climb on increasingly steep ground past two bolts. After second bolt step left to slanting crack (crux). Find good protection in crack then continue up on small holds past two more bolts.

Historic route number: 36a

Scramble up to the ledge and onto some blocks, traverse left along the high break and continue along the ledge to join Rhinoferos.

This is an extension of the Stopykes Revenge crack, climbed as a single pitch with chains at the top. Take small cams and wires for the top.

Furthest right route on cliff. Steep and sustained, with Pitches 3-5 being particularly excellent. Recommended strategy is to rap in and climb out in a day. Start: On the large ledge at the short pillar.

1. 25m (20, 3B) Start from the pillar, up past 3 bolts and then straight up to the ledge, via a short left facing corner at the top. Belay at bolt by flake.

2. 15m (20, 3B) Start a few meters right of stance, up past two bolts, and traverse left at third bolt into a break that is followed to ledge with bolted stance.

3. 35m (19, 1B) Traverse up and right on grey rock until to a traverse level (~8m above height of belay). Traverse right at a good foot ledge past one bolt to reach a diagonal break in orange rock. Follow this to a bolted stance. The Banger Pitches

4. 25m (21, 2B) More or less straight up to a tricky move past the second bolt to a rail. Traverse ~2m left and up to standing platform at base of recess. Continue up a few meters to stance at a jagged rail.

5. 30m (22, 1B) From stance start slightly right and up to the roof. Traverse left using underclings to the left edge of roof. Move ~1m left and up to a tricky, reachy move past a bolt. Reach back right to a finger crack over roof. Follow the superb leaning corner to below a very wide break in the top roof. At this height traverse left on exposed awesomeness and then pull up to a comfortable ledge.

6. 20m (19) Climb the corner at back of ledge, then traverse right below the roof to a ledge. Continue straight up via some long, testing moves to gain another ledge where you traverse right. Pull up carefully over grey blocks (the projecting one is musical) to a ledge. Stance on right side at base of short corner.

7. 15m (20) A short burly sequence up and right using a short vertical crack and sidepulls further right leads to easier ground. Up and left to a vertical crack system. Follow this to another ledge.

8. 20m (20, 1B) Up corner crack at back of the ledge (punchy start) to a hanging flake in the corner. This feature is solid enough to gingerly climb on, but DOT NOT place gear behind it (hence the bolt up and right). Follow the corner then exit right to platform – there is reasonable left of the single bolt.

9. 20m (19) Pull through the steep V-shaped feature above bolt and up a recess to mantle onto a small ledge on the right. Pull up to a roof and traverse left to a wide rail. A long move here gains the face, then tend up and right to finish up the blunt arete (to the right of a vegetated shoot). Belay at thread at ledge. Walk right ~10m past a big boulder to the right side of the roof (~3m above the ground).

10. 40m (16) One long move to get established above the overlap. Follow the left tending break to a ledge. Traverse ~4m to left end of ledge. Continue straight up easy ground from ~10m, then tend up and left to the top. Bolted belay on the left.

Climb the face 2m right of THUNDERSTRUCK. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.)

Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook.

The feature of the route is the short, impressive, downstream-facing dihedral about 20m above the sandy pool-bed spanning the kloof above MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. Start 3m right of TEMPTATION CRACK.

1. 20m 15 Climb up past the right side of a large overhang at 10m and continue up a crack. Traverse left to a ledge situated below and to the left of the dihedral.

2. 15m 23 Climb the dihedral.

3. 15m 20 Climb the bottomless off-width crack / chimney above.

Note:

SOULCRUSHER partly follows the line of the old aid route THE HAWK'S NOSE.

A fairly direct line running through Valken Surprise. A bold crux pitch.

Start: Left of Valken Surprise blocky first pitch is a set of roofs running up diagonally left. Start midway beneath these roofs.

1. Climb the face, then break through the overhangs above and to the left of the big roof. Follow some overlaps up to the left, then climb directly up a lichen-covered face to gain a ledge to the right of the loose white block on Valken Surprise, and below the crux of Shock Absorber. Move 8m right and stance at a long crack.

2. Climb up into the corner above, move out right onto the arete (hidden nut placement around the corner before doing the move is strongly advisable), then pull up to a ledge on Valken Surprise leftward traverse.

3. Climb up directly behind the stance and pull through a series of small overhangs, passing right of a prominent white nose (Valken Surprise goes left of the nose). Continue up to a platform stance shared with Valken Surprise.

4. Starting Left of Valken Surprise, climb the wall above, crossing Valken Frontal and finish up the steep wall left of Frontal's final pitch.

On the left wall as you walk up the valley.