Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Escalador | Fecha | |||
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23 24 | ★★ Ra - con Karen Tempest | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | Dom 10.º Sep 2017 | |||||
24 | ★★ Ra | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 25.º Feb 2018 | ||||
23 24 | ★★ Ra | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 26.º Feb 2018 | ||||
Awesome route. Is a bit of a struggle to stay on route through the arete section. Would probably give both bolted pitches a 23.
Great job putting such a direct line right up the front of the Pharaoh!
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24 |
★★ Ra
1
23
30m
2
24
| 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 26.º Feb 2021 | ||||
Surprisingly fantastic.
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24 | ★★ Ra - con muki woods | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 12.º Dic 2021 | ||||
The climbing flows very well and has some very cool moves.
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24 | ★★ Ra - con muki woods | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | 2021 | ||||
24 | ★★ Ra | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | Lun 9.º Oct 2017 | |||||
2nd Go
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25 | Pr.Asc. ★ The Lap Dancer - con Sean Powell | 28m, 8 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 10.º Jul 2022 | ||||
FFA. Quality steep pumper!
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29 | ★★★ Prowling for Leftovers - con Ellen, Nut Busting Unicorn | 27m, 8 | Arapiles | Mar 25.º Abr 2023 | |||||
I'm trying a link-up where you start up The Prow, then go straight into the crux of Station to Station, then into the crux of Final Departure.
Is this link-up Prowling for Leftovers? Does anyone here know if this has been done before? |
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 29.º Jun 2010 | ||||
with the germans. very poorly bolted
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | 2007 | ||||
look around when your at the crux- watch for rope drag
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Dom 10.º Jun 2007 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 1.º Dic 2007 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 29.º Dic 2006 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 20.º Mar 2004 | ||||
Got it second go. Good climbing on delecate slab to grunty over gang.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Medio | 1995 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 1.º Jul 2003 | |||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 30.º Abr 2004 | ||||
just 1 rest just before the top (I've got to get fitter). Cam took a HUGE whipper on lead)
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 6.º Nov 2004 | ||||
Excellent committing move over bulge/roof.Excellent climbing leading up to it!
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 27.º Dic 2006 | ||||
Following Tim Le...
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 6.º Nov 2004 | ||||
classic finnish
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 13.º Jun 2011 | ||||
Tough to pull over the lip, grit your teeth & go.
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30 | ★ Afterburner - con Tracey Hua | 25m, 7 | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 25.º Abr 2014 | ||||
2nd go - should have onsighted this one The top out makes little or no difference to the 29 up to this point and the bit in the guidebook about not stepping out left is totally pointless as you get full recovery on two jugs anyway and there is a no hands rest on the bulge so don't really get it
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 26.º Abr 2014 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | 1992 | ||||
Dogged the buggery out of this in 1992, got some good linkage but no cigar. Tearing my shoulder on Looksharp on Dec crag pu an end to that.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 29.º Oct 2014 | ||||
Struggled working out path through roof. Placing gear made it tricky.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 8.º Mayo 2015 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street - con Paul Frothy Thomson | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 13.º Mayo 2015 | ||||
Easy with the beta from Paul.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 13.º Mayo 2015 | ||||
Linked into Cassandra Direct for a warmup. With the chalk washed off, I pumped out before I found the crucial holds to turn the lip to the anchors. If I wasn't time limited I'd give it another lap for the tick, but I have bigger finish to fry. A bit runout when you don't bring supplemental gear. Exciting roof thugginess. Watch out for red herring chalk!
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 30.º Mayo 2015 | ||||
Epic position. After a couple of goes at the sequence above the lip amongst the sea of misleading chalky holds, I was too smashed and had to resort to some aid to top out. unreal exposure and exciting falls.
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con Bodin Pollard | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Dom 8.º Nov 2015 | ||||
Best route I've been on at Arapiles and now the subject of my obsession. Crux (just after the long reach in the picture in the guide) is cool but hard. Hand jam rest after the powerful start, and no-handers on the blocks next to Thunder Crack before the crux will help, but it's still on for a long way after the crux too. Even the lichenous vertical headwall is no gimme. "Direct Finish" seems a little contrived to me (seems more like a LHV) given the route basically tracks 2-3m left of TC ...
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | ||||
Did all but 2 moves, would be a great 27 if it didn't have those 2 moves...
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | Lun 25.º En 2016 | |||||
For the first time in 20 years, I left a leaver-biner behind. That's okay though because I left the ground knowing I'd probably do that. Whoever get's my red w/yellow gate leaver-biner, treat her right she has been with me through thick and thin, faithfully holding my shoes to the back of my harness. Great route - thought I'd gotten through the crux at the balancey bit up high but there was another harder crux immediately afterwards which I couldn't do this time. Nice route though!
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28 27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 22.º Oct 2017 | ||||
Super proud line. Defo well hard for 27, more like 28.
Tricky start, then rad jug hauling to a sustained V6 ish section near the top. Terribly bolted but nothing some long draws can't fix. |
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32 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | 1985 | |||||
FFA.
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Robbie, Ben | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 27.º Nov 2017 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Dom 8.º Abr 2018 | |||||
Chris was kind enough to let us use his rope
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30 | ★ Afterburner | 25m, 7 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 17.º Abr 2018 | ||||
One sit, hurt finger.
Contrived and soft for 30 but worth giving a go after Jetlag. |
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 11.º Jun 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 11.º Jun 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 2.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 1.º Ag 2018 | ||||
Finally passed...
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 28.º Sep 2018 | ||||
Pumpy, complex and awesome sequence through the roof
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Jue 1.º Nov 2018 | |||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Lun 9.º Oct 2006 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 4.º En 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street - con Anthony Cuskelly | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 17.º Mar 2019 | ||||
Had a few shots and a few falls. Not up for that much steep radness at the moment. Didn't place gear, did hurt foot. Clean to the roof, had a few shots, then finished back across to Cassandra anchors.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Dom 31.º Mar 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 26.º Abr 2019 | ||||
Super good. Brilliant slab up to roof, especially the 22 section, then awesome full exposure roof.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 29.º Mayo 2019 | ||||
thought provoking slab, then a pumpy, tricky finish. good fun
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 22.º Jul 2019 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | Sáb 31.º Ag 2019 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 2.º Oct 2019 | ||||
Nails and a bit dangerous
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con George Bittar, Ben Wright, Pete, Heather | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 22.º Dic 2019 | ||||
First bolt is an easy clip
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 20.º Feb 2020 | ||||
30 | ★ Afterburner | 25m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 23.º Mar 2020 | ||||
Tried this on top rope solo not knowing the grade, seems soft for 30 since I was able to do almost all the moves. Pretty average climbing though
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Dom 21.º Jun 2020 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street - con Jed Parkes | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 15.º Ag 2020 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street - con Jed Parkes | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 15.º Ag 2020 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 8.º Sep 2020 | |||||
And so it begins. Ain’t no chance I’ll be logging every attempt but better keep some attempt at a record so I know when to give up
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 6.º Oct 2020 | |||||
Did all the moves today. That’s gotta count for something. Time to start putting it all together
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Sáb 10.º Oct 2020 | |||||
Getting higher percentages on individual moves. Managed to do all the moves in one burn, and getting close on sticking the pinch move from the ground. Next step is to get more linkage on the crux
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Joe, Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy, Pickles, Ben | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mar 20.º Oct 2020 | ||||
PUUUUUUNKS!! a lot of thoughts on this one - a real shame i couldn't finish it with Joe after starting to work it together a year ago. here's hoping you get out soon mate! i think the examination line that gets thrown around is pretty accurate. Really had to do my homework on it! felt nearly impossible with incremental improvements until suddenly i was on the crimps up top trying not to spew from nervousness... Feels kind of surreal climbing out here at the moment but very happy to find a moment of clarity at the chains for a minute there. Thanks to everyone who helped out with a catch or bits of beta!
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | Lun 7.º Dic 2020 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 28.º Feb 2021 | ||||
Excellent! I'd rate this up with the other great roof climbs of arapiles. Will be back. Awesome position, with a tricky sequence at the lip. You're in the roof for quite a long time! You will need a medium cam or two after the bolt near the lip to prevent a potential slab fall if it all goes wrong.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 9.º Mar 2021 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 29.º Mar 2021 | ||||
This route is so unique and a lot of fun. ~8 attempts this trip over ~4 days. Done in two sections. I'll be back!
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Jack, Liz Chong | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 9.º Abr 2021 | ||||
You can’t not climb Punks on its birthday!!
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 11.º Abr 2021 | ||||
Hidden gem.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Lun 26.º Abr 2021 | |||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Will Monks | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 12.º Mayo 2021 | ||||
Another bunch of attempts over 3 days. Fell off going for the bird-bath four times - each time a bit closer. Wish it was closer to home!
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 15.º Mayo 2021 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Dom 16.º Mayo 2021 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street - con TracyMartens | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 19.º Jun 2021 | ||||
It felt like the crux of this was getting up Cassandra Direct to the roof. Hadnt done it this way before - very good.
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 3.º Dic 2021 | ||||
Hard, gotta come back
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 8.º Dic 2021 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street - con lloyd wishart | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 5.º En 2022 | ||||
Not too bad. Clipped stuck wire
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Dom 6.º Mar 2022 | ||||
So it begins.
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Vie 25.º Mar 2022 | |||||
1.5 hours dogging around, experiencing a piece of climbing history. Did all moves up to and including the birdbath drive-by. Struggled after, didn't really get stood up. Also struggled on the lower heel move, kinda managed it once. Toasted by the time I lowered off. A 20+ year dream to get on this route.
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Sáb 26.º Mar 2022 | |||||
Punks shot #2. Hot, face melting. Was mostly keen to experience the top section. Climbed clean to below the heel move, pulled through. Climbed from the rest and stuck the drive-by, couldn't stand up, then pulled through. Did the rest of moves, not nicely, with screaming skin. Then drive 11 hours home!
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 7.º Abr 2022 | ||||
Quick burn to suss the moves. All feels doable but that crux is gonna require some oomf
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23 | ★★ Pain Street - con Ryan Gaskon | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mié 13.º Abr 2022 | |||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con Bradd Jimmink, Lucas Marie | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 17.º Abr 2022 | ||||
What a serene parable of a climb. Didn’t even think something of this level was possible after 3 months laid off with injury. Looked across at the line from the bath atop Clytemnestra just as the sun struck it this morning, visualised the moves and thought “that’s going today”. And go it did. Perhaps the most ataraxic climb I’ve ever done. What an experience. What a route. What a place
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con William Wardlaw-Kelly | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 20.º Abr 2022 | ||||
Punk
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23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 25.º Abr 2022 | ||||
Excellent clean slabbing into juggy roof action.
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23 | ★★ Pain Street - con Steve Postle | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 26.º Abr 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con Will Grant | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mar 26.º Abr 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con Will Grant | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mar 26.º Abr 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con danny wade | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mar 26.º Abr 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con danny wade | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mar 26.º Abr 2022 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - con Ryan Sklenica, William Wardlaw-Kelly | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Mar 26.º Abr 2022 | |||||
Touched the birdbath while taking photos of Ryan, so definitely blew the onsight
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32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Jue 5.º Mayo 2022 | ||||
Whoop! What a route! Super psyched on the style and the lessons it taught me. Given the history it was always a dream route. Quite the mental battle in the end. This trip (my 3rd on the route) I managed to pretty quickly cruise up to and through the birdbath. But I fell 9 times above the birdbath!, mostly trying to match hands after getting my foot on it. Tough to match this route as a lesson in technique and flow, especially the top half. Thanks to Marie for the many patient belays and to Will Monks for working it with me last trip.
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - con Swena Zheng, Chloe Fu | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mar 3.º Mayo 2022 | ||||
Unreal. Felt like a proper quest in the dark. Didn’t get to the top.
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