Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Super fun 15, glad its gets a star in the crag.
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Not as spooky as Entertainer, but still committing in sections! Rushed to get down, following some drops of rain halfway up!
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Classic Arapiles-ian bulges! Spooky, pumpy climbing somewhat reminiscent of Morfydd. Slightly eases up after trusting my feet more, and finishes with a cool roof sequence!
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Sáb 11.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | |||||
Good line but Entertainer is definitely better (and a bit harder imo)
|
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Dom 5.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Had some essential gear beta which made the start feel fine. After that, what a lovely quest through some varied terrain and bomber gear! One of the best.
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Way less sustained than Entertainer, but the moves on this are way better! Super super fun.
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Dom 28.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | |||||
On dans gear
|
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Sáb 27.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
This line flows beautifully. Quite cruxy off the deck though.
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | |||||
Very good
|
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21 |
★★ Round Up
![]() | 30m | |||||
Very good
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
Very good. Took the line through the bulge/roof, which had better holds than appears from underneath.
|
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great moves!
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Onsight 1st attempt on someone's pre placed gear.
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Onsight 1st attempt on someone's pre placed gear.
|
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Jue 25.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Did it again to do the final face climb correctly, and had the scariest traverse to the right of my life. Ended up hanging onto the wall with only an opposed knee press and heel/toe, desperately questing for any handholds. Found a terrible crimp blindly and sent the rest of the climb.
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Absolutely stoked with this onsight, first real grade 21 onsight for me. The start is actually pretty easy if you're comfortable at grade 21, but the consequences for hubris are high here. It felt like there were three real onsight cruxes: each of the two left facing bulges in the first half of the climb, and then the traverse to the right afterwards. It took me ages to figure out the bulges, downclimbing to rest on better holds repeatedly while working out the sequences. I also got lost on the second half of the climb and went left to Round Up instead of right, finishing on a balancing act on the thin ledge at the top to get back to the Comic Relief chains.
|
|||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very cool moves, good pro.
|
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18 ~19 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Felt hard and scary, really shook my confidence, but the day went well in the end. Hard to be sure what the grade is from an onsight though. Went straight through the roof/mantle which was also pretty nerve racking.
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Mar 23.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Full on battle to redeem myself from my last attempt. Still found it very pumpy and committing, so stoked about the send!
|
|||||||
Sáb 6.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
Full value entertainment whip on the direct finish.
|
|||||||
Vie 5.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 ~18 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Loved it. Cool movement and great gear. Easier than Entertainer.
|
|||||||
Mié 3.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Such impeccable movent all the way. The ledge just before the top detracts slightly, but oh such nice climbing. Really, really quality. Went direct through the bum crack rather than around.
|
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Lun 1.º En 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
Bloody pumpy, and freaky at the start. Struggled to place my first piece, fought to the roof where it seems to be a finger crack. Had a rest, found some good hands and charged to the top. Right before the anchors I struggled on the balancy move with thin gear placed (my fault) and managed to get the top. This was a battle, but it was a ton of fun
|
|||||||
Jue 14.º Dic 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Really quite excellent. Fun moves with nice gear except for the start. Keen to lead it
|
|||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Epic. Top roped it a couple times till the bottom didnt feel so dangerous
|
|||||||
18 Duro |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
So great. A bit stiff, but not crazy. Got lost about halfway up and made things harder for myself by reaching for some heinous slopers
|
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Sáb 14.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | |||||
nice climb, not very sure whats the right way to go at the top.
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
hardest grade i have onsighted in trad so far i believe. very entertaining climb. happy to have finally started to look for starred climbs.
|
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Mar 10.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
All went pretty well, spaced the gear out a bit but would be clean falls. Technical footwork between good finger locks in general. Stepped left to arete rest at top and thought this can't be it, stepped back right and seems I took direct finish. 19 for that but standard finish would make it 18 I think. We are done. Back to camp, took a pratfall in slippery jandals with back landing across tree root. Rest day now please, maybe 2.
|
|||||||
18 Duro |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Quite the onsight fight for AJ. An epic 2 minute bout of swearing and gibbering under the roof could only be answered by "roger that". The finish through the bulge was taken.
|
|||||||
15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Enjoyable warmup with some thoughtful moves. Why the R rating? There might be gear near the bolt but it might be shit. Both a bit wrecked but last day for AJ.
|
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Dom 8.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
Failed. Getting to the little RH rail was hard for me and then came off in three attempts o the move after that.
|
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Top roped from round up anchor and finished up that route after getting through the bulge. Really nice climbing through several difficult sections which I didn't find too strenuous, certainly a much more serious prospect to lead though.
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
TR only. Pumpy. Nice route.
|
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | |||||
I did it nicely again just on TR. Cool moves
|
|||||||
15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | |||||
Cool route, a couple of grade 15 moves.
|
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Sáb 7.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 ~18 |
★★ Day of Rest P1
![]()
1
| 85m | Medio | ||||
Sandbag. Lowered off the first rap as intended. Half offwidth, half crack. Didn't have the greatest time though the one fist jam was good.
|
|||||||
18 Duro |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Still a classic, and harder than I remember. Josh took a nice big whip on his first attempt!
|
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15 Fácil |
★ Dante's Inferno
![]() | 70m | ★ Buena | ||||
Gear spaced but good when it's there on the first pitch. Rap chains at the top can be done in one 60m rap or two 30m raps. Better than you would be lead to believe.
|
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Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
ice cream. had time to do one last climb before the trek back home. mentally prepared for this route including all the rests and gear placements (thanks Nic & Sarah). didn't factor in that one of the rests didn't exist, and that i would be super pumped and needed to downclimb many times after placing gear. was well rewarded with the last sunset of Arapiles and an OTR soft serve (highly recommend!)
|
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Jue 28.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
attempted to pinkpoint the first 2/3 of the route then placed gear from the traverse to the bolts. one take from pumpiness and one take from not knowing how to protect the roof traverse. thanks to Nic & Sarah for protecting it well
|
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Mar 5.º Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Excellent line, kept me engaged all the way till the very end. The intimidating looking sections turned out to not be too bad and some of the more approachable looking moves were deceptively hard. Sorry Daniel for stealing all the good weather and leaving you with the rain once again.
|
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Jue 31.º Ag 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Battled my way up to the roof of this one, super proud of myself for getting past the lower crux. Got pumped out of my mind overgripping and freaking out. Sat on my gear before going up through the roof, much easier than I thought it'd be.
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Lun 31.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Alzheimer’s onsight
|
|||||||
Lun 17.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 ~20 |
★★ Day of Rest
![]() | 85m | |||||
Much harder than sideshow, entertainer and round up
|
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Sáb 15.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 Duro |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Did the direct finish, straight up and over!
|
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Mar 11.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
consistently fantastic climbing with great gear. Did the direct finish and had a great time. Probably my favourite climb at the grade, and of the entire trip. Will do it again
|
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Almost pumped out on the crux messing around with gear so I down climbed 5 meters to a rest, then breezed through the rest after I’d cooled off
|
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Lun 3.º Jul 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Hello Hollywood
![]() | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
This has consistently good climbing all the way to the top. A 60m rope gets you back to the ground.
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Sáb 10.º Jun 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
I intended to check out Last Laugh, but I got distracted, and instead I did a little variant of Comic Relief: from the big horizontal break after the large flake, go up from the pebble in the break to a small edge; this soon rejoins Comic Relief. It's a straighter line, not much harder than (and not as good as) the original, but worth checking out if you're looking for something different...
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Dom 4.º Jun 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
Awesome. Had beta on a good totem placement, otherwise more or less OS. L traverse at the top.
|
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15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Possible to scout out some decent gear on the L face past bolt (couple of RPs and decent small/med cams in the horizontals) - so not sure if the R is warranted. Maybe I was off route?
|
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Dom 21.º Mayo 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
This just has an odd crux, a roof and weirdish gear. It is all good placements just in unlikely constrictions.
|
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
This is shit loads better than Entertainer. It follows a more natural line, Has better gear and flow! Swap the stars!
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Sáb 20.º Mayo 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very cool, strenuous start but manageable. Then good jams and rests before pulling roof. We ended up going left to round up anchor.
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Super fun. A chance to entertain the crowds when you're seconding with extra style
|
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quality climbing, plenty of great pro placements. We continued to the round up anchor to set up a TR for comic relief
|
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Dom 7.º Mayo 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | |||||
A lovely way to finish off an excellent weekend of climbing and hanging out with friends!
|
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Lun 1.º Mayo 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 Duro |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
This might just be my favourite 18 at the mount
|
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Lun 17.º Abr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 ~19 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
After Alex onsighted. Took the traverse left. Undeniably awesome, undeniably harder than 18!
|
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Vie 14.º Abr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
Fell on the last move!! Heartbreaking. Cool climbing.
|
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Lun 3.º Abr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Fun times. Start is safe if your solid at the grade, climb with your eyes open and have aliens! If any of these three are missing, could be a bit exciting for all involved.
|
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Lun 27.º Mar 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
retro flash after trying this on top rope a year ago but technically a redpoint. pretty cruizy once you place that first good gear in
|
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Dom 19.º Feb 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Worth the walk
|
|||||||
Sáb 17.º Dic 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Made it arbitrarily difficult by taking the ultra-direct line for giggles. Not quite of the same calibre as E and CR but worth doing if you're there and would be approaching classic status if it were elsewhere
|
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18 Duro |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Absolute classic at the grade. Claiming an onsight because I last did this in 1994 and cannot remember anything
|
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21 Duro |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Solid for the grade but probably the best 21 at Araps for mine. Made an error down low and blew the re-onsight, although was only on TR anyway, so does anyone care ?
|
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Lun 28.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
great line! my favorite moves at Arapiles. feels like youre climbing something harder, but easily
|
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Dom 6.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★ Cut Short
![]() | 30m | ★ Buena | ||||
Tough onsite and burly gear placement required through the crux to protect well.
|
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Lun 3.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super fantastic!
|
|||||||
Sáb 27.º Ag 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Would love to come back and lead
|
|||||||
Jue 25.º Ag 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | |||||
Cool strenuous sequences separated by good rests
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
On Pat's gear. Cool and cryptic the whole way
|
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
On Pat's gear. Awesome line. Keeps you on your toes the whole way with stellar movement. Careful of the sting in the tail!
|
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Sáb 25.º Jun 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
tried to pink-point with Dan's placements, but didn't have the endurance to pull it all together. took some exciting falls, which were my first ones on gear!
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
sick line! went left at the roof, got pumped and had to rest to figure out the top moves
|
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19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
cool line on great rock!
|
|||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
Absolutely classic!
|
|||||||
Mar 31.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | |||||
Historic tick
|
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18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
Historic tick
|
|||||||
Mié 18.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Got very pumped. Plenty of jugs to tackle the roof between the butt cheeks!
|
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Hardest Trad onsight to date! The description on the crag makes this sound like a death route, but the start is fine if you treat it with respect, like you should with all Trad climbing. Safer than the log to get to the upper wall on the left!
|
|||||||
Mar 17.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
the first day of the business end of the trip. step into my gd office.
|
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | |||||
the moment Ethan thought okay, let's scare this kid on some wild shit - to upper curtain wall we go! did not find it terrifying and gear seemed okay? but i'm aware of the debates about the risky nature of this climb. climbing was great though. would say go for it - felt mildly harder than Entertainer? is that a reckless comment?
|
|||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sent my first 19 yeeeeewwwwww
|
|||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Took my first whip yeeeeew
|
|||||||
Dom 15.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Bomber gear the whole way.
|
|||||||
Lun 9.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
One of the better things I’ve ever done. Don’t know what this nonsense about a poorly protected start is.
|
|||||||
Mar 3.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
What a hoot, 🥳 thanks Ryan for the very patient belay 🤗
|
|||||||
15 |
★ Dante's Inferno
![]() | 70m | Medio | ||||
Not worth the effort second pitch was better though 😜
|
|||||||
Lun 2.º Mayo 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Slippery and hard in the true fashion of an Arapiles classic in the high teens.
|
|||||||
Mar 26.º Abr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Hello Hollywood
![]() | 50m | ★ Buena | ||||
2 belayers, BIG swinging whips and bash-in carrots. Lots of fun. Unfortunately sat after the crux because the route was 60% moss and I was pumped and scared
|
|||||||
Lun 25.º Abr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 |
★ Cut Short
![]() | 30m | ★ Buena | ||||
excellent crux at the start, bit of a ramble after that. Onsight with pre-placed gear.
|
|||||||
Dom 24.º Abr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Entertainer
![]() | 20m | |||||
Took on piece at crux which blew... followe by my next piece. Landed head down on wrist. Broken wrist.
|
|||||||
15 15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Warmup before breaking my wrist on entertainer. Good bye for now Arapiles.
|
|||||||
Lun 18.º Abr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Sideshow
![]() | 35m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Route two with Alec, Zac and Pat.
|
|||||||
21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Feel well above the crux.
|
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15 |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lovely little line... on the list for potential solo.
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21 |
★★★ Comic Relief
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great route! Start was engaging
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Sáb 16.º Abr 2022 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 15 R |
★ The Joker
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | ||||
Beautiful moves but terrible time above the bolt on three shitty cams saw a rapid retreat.
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