Ascensiones en South Face

With Nod. Gave it a good clean beforehand. Think it's probably 17 rather than 18 in it's clean state. Said it's very good, but then I'm biased.

Think we probably doubled the number of people who have done this route today. It's actually surprisingly nice climbing, mostly ok rock and not too grotty. also not as wandery as the topo suggests. a single rope and extended runners were fine. It does seem a little soft although I might not go as low as Adam's 15. If grade 16 was your leading limit, you'd probably be a lot less comfortable than we were on it.

'twould be a scary mofo of a lead ...

Fucking hell, that was scary

What a journey! After watching Alex's onsight I opted for toprope inspection before going for the lead. A thin, technical sequence with crazy exposure and a distressing lack of protection. Won't forget that one in a while! The crux is incredible, just a shame the rest of the route is a bit average. Big fall potential but you could maybe be okay with a really good belay.

Very scary. Tough to read rising unprotected diagonal traverse with a bit of lichen. Stoked to have done it, falling was not really an option. In hindsight perhaps a head point would have been wiser.

Beautiful line with good gear, facing a potential deck if you bugger up the last moves of the run out. Belayer should be ready to jump off ledge to take in slack.

Its a bit of a mission to pre rig a fixed line to rope solo on, big S bend and overhung.

Maybe one more session then I'll hopefully be ready for a lead.

Linked the crux a number of times making me feel ready for a lead burn. But then fumbled it on my last attempt(just forgot the sequence). In saying that the second half of the runout I've got every time I've tried it so that should be sweet as long as I'm fresh.

very thin moves. such an awsome position.

Nearly got through on the flash. Cleaned it up 2nd try. Fantastic rock, positions and moves. with Alister

mega position

Did the moves.

In the top 10 routes at Arapiles for mine.

Have found an "easy" sequence through the crux (between 4th and 5th bolts) using a hold that no-one else seems to know about (no chalk, heaven forbid !?) and the whole thing goes nicely. High left heel makes the "dodgy" 4th clip no probs at all. All the moves done, time to go for the tick

Ohhh, I also broke off the starting crimp so everyone else has to go and do it again now - it's virtually a new route ...

Hard crimpy crux, sick!

Jeez these crimps are sharp!

A sharp spanking

Great! I was not expecting so many small minging crimpers. But if you just keep pulling it's not so bad. Long runout on easy rock to the anchors.

Probably not quite a 3 star route IMO.... but very good none the less

fantastic! everything you could want in a climb, superb movement, streno crux and awesome exposure!!!

The flash was very close, the second shot was an unexplainable failure, the third shot was locker.

Wonderful Bluies style crimpfest in a stunning location. Looks less imposing from the belay than from the ground. The top runout is silly and can be protected with a small cam. 5th shot over 2 days.

Exploratory lap. Mega climbing with a bouldery crimp crux. Not particularly scary -though all the bolts are in the wrong spot, its fine once the draws are on. I could probably do this this trip, but I think id rather get on more Arapilean-esque routes.

No bueno. Need rest.

Finish up Trojan for a good 21.

went up to get my gear back off trojan. some of the gear is a touch thin

very enjoyable problem solving exercise (there moves are all there once you work them out!)

love this climb!

Seconded Lawrie. I expected to walk up it - but struggled like hell!