Ascensiones en Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area

aided the 26 crux, Awesome moves 1st few pitches then run-outs!

aided the 26 move, 1st 3 pitches the best,,with carl

With Neil. Aided crux 26 move.

P1,3,6,9. With Neil. Aided the grade 26 crux move. Lots of falling rock!

Fell off crux, otherwise onsight

P1 Tom - big whip missing slab when tore off a side pull, P2 Niko - big whip flipping upside down smashing back and leg at roof when inspecting 26 arete and bolt blew? - CAUTION - potential missing bolt at 26 section of arete (near broken flake?)

On P2 made it quickly to the arrette. Asked Tom to take on one of the bolts I just clipped quickly had a look at the sequence realising that what appeared to be the key flake hold, was ripped off by someone prior. I tried a sequence without it but decided to come back down to have an other look. The draw was at my waist. So I asked Tom to take, grabbed the express of the draw with my right hand to slowly rotate back down. It took my weight [with tom saying he had me fully loaded on his end]. Next thing I know, I'm flying through the air upside down; I impact back first. Due to the rope being fully loaded it was a violent pendulum swing But thankfully my head and upper torso were flung bellow the roof. There was a quickdraw dangling on my side of the rope. This suggests that I didn't clip the draw correctly or a U-Bolt pulled out without the rock. I couldn't know for sure - but having loaded that quickdraw prior with no problems (and looking at it directly before I climbed) to me it suggests the latter. Pain quickly prioritised itself over curiosity and we bailed back down to the ground.

Took bad pics of the guide and ended up on this instead of BBB. Got to the 2nd pitch's crux, then realised that there was no way that this was 18 hahah. Had time to retreat, and get on Bunnies!

Climbed this yesterday - happy to report that all bolts are intact on the 2nd pitch. There does appear to be a broken hold at the 26 crux of this pitch, (? small flake missing). I stick clipped this move (there were two sticks in the break below). The missing hold also seemed to make the foot sequence harder for the next section - seemed like a solid 23 move. Rest of the route was great, and pitch 8 was definitely a classic position!

Committing climb not your average clip-up,(could do with double the number to make it that!) widely spaced bolts with serious fall potential should a hold break. Stick clip highly recommended and even if you aid the 26 section, there are consistently 23+sections. Well worth doing if you are up to it!

Well beyond my grade but lucky to have a climbing buddy I trust entirely! Wrecked by the end of it as it’s pretty sustained with lots of overhangs seemingly without footers. Bolts very spaced apart so definitely committing for the leader but not as scary for me seconding.

Sweeet, was a great day. Bit of an epic, but nevertheless (therefore?) great. Good climbing all the way. Spaced, but reasonably bolted. I've kind of tried to free the crux, but decided to go back down to get a stick and clip that bolt. It looks pretty desperate and I couldn't have done it. Also the rest of the pitch is stiff and nowhere near a 23 I'd say. There was - and still is (28.1.18 ) - a small stick on the belay after pitch 1. Might be good to take your own on up with you though, just to be sure. Should reach it with a long panic-draw, I guess. The roof-pitch is awesome, the traverse amazing and puts you in a fucking spledid position. Felt easier than 21 though. Got in the rain at that time and topped out drenched to the skin.

Would do it again for sure.

Nats gift to me for my birthday. It was great to finally climb Stephen Hawkshaw's Big Schnoz. Probs the biggest Punter to have climbed this route. Sorry to anyone who heard me swearing my way up on second hahaha

First half of the route is pretty slabby with small holds. The crux being super thin. Props to Nat who whipped over 5 times till he got it clean. Whereas I spent most of this pitch aiding on draws.

The upper pitches are far nicer however don't flow aswell as Bunnies or Hotel.

The Traverse pitch is insane! you spend most of time traversing mere millimeters from the void untill you step up to grab the schnoz!

Has anyone else noticed that there is a shape of the face in the rock!! also whats the big guys name????

Pretty stoked to have actually got up this!!!

Tried this as part of a link up with Mirrorball. Pitch two - shut down. Damo took some cracker whips. Retreated as we didn't feel like an epic. Will return to give a full day.

Was aiming for Hotel California, but wasnt paying enough attention to the topo and jumped on this. Got a rude shock halfway up P2 on the arete and then figured out where we were. Maybe I could have persevered and yarded through with the panic draw, but I was scarcely able to get from one bolt to the next and was wigged out, so we retreated and ran up BBB instead due to time constraints with our fluffy tails down between our legs.

Lots of run outs, lots of choss! Almost got the second pitch OS but a foot hold busted just as I was exiting the crux. Grrr...

If you plan to pull past the second pitch bring a panic draw or stick clip.

The climbing is upper echelon "Very Good", but the bolting is so unceasingly garbage that I can't give this better than "Good".

P2 was quite sustained, with consistently rad moves up the arete (and a funky gritstone finale) but seemed rather easy at the grade (though I can see it being nails if you're short). Regardless, I was pretty stoked to onsight it in good style.

The crux of the day were the moves to the 2nd bolt on P3, which was a solid V4 for me. I'm wondering if the recent storms have caused the block you start on to slide down the ledge, or whether perhaps there used to be a cairn there? I'm keen to hear others' opinions who repeat this after me.

Most pitches were good. The crazy roof on P5 was super unlikely, and the spine chiller traverse was great!

Regarding my criticism of the bolting:

• Runouts with near constant ledgefall potential.

• Terrible bolt placements -over-recessed (biner snappers) and constantly out of reach even at my height.

• Irrational belay stances -Bolts too high, or far too low, or a hanging belay instead of on a big ledge?

Prospective multipitch new routers should climb this if only to learn what not to do.

luke broke a footer on the crux pitch otherwise would defo have onsighted it

i ripped off a massive piece of ironstone and had a 10m fall going up the corner on the traverse/money pitch

awesome day out

Linkup of the first 6 pitches of RRR into a 60m traverse to finish out on the nose. Super faffy to organise, but extremely glad we did - was a sick day out.

It was amazing to finally tie in for this after thinking about the line constantly for the past year.

3 ties in to progressively figure out how to enter the roof crack. Turns out the direct line is some of the absolute worst choss you can imagine. Spent 15 minutes sketchily cleaning rock before down climbing and seeking another way. Best line seems to be BBB for a few bolts and then traversing right.

High point was entering the roof crack, getting an inverted heel tool cam into the roof pod but only to have a hold rip out and then taking an upside down whip back onto the wall. But the gear held!

Couldn’t get the FA today as it needs two BD 5s to protect (one for end of traverse, one for roof pod) and only had one.

Feeling like the minimum grade might be 24? Hoping to get back in a week or two with more big gear.

The route name continues the areas trend of alliterating rodents.

After an emergency shipment of big cams last week, I finally had the gear to climb the route!

Managed to aid through the roof today and find all key holds + placements. Some wild, wide-boys style beta needed to climb Chinchilla but it actually started to look possible after the gear was found and holds had some chalk.

After trying the moves, and sticking a few of them, thinking the grade is 25ish. Today technically an FA, albeit in the most hang-dogging of styles. Aiming for an FFA attempt next week.

All moves free baby!

Feel pretty confident with it being grade 25 as its harder than any previous trad route I’ve done, even after figuring out all moves and gear.

This thing is cooked: a wide boys style heel toe cam into the roof crack leading into a dead point to a hand jam. Maybe there is other beta but by George it works and does it feel amazing to climb!

God freaking dammit… made it through the roof THREE DAMN TIMES and pumped out pulling the lip each send attempt.

So so so so so so close 😭

Well, looks like the trip is being extended again! Just cannot leave with a send being that close.

Finally! 5 sessions, 5x laps of BBB and 18 or so tie ins. 😅

First things first, the grade….

I’m grading/proposing 25 but consider it on the soft end of the grade depending on height/reach. If you have a sub 195cm span that initial move into the roof might be brutal 🤷‍♂️ (I'm 199/200 and can just reach)

Blueies locals and the 2nd FFA should definitely give feedback on grade so it can be confirmed or adjusted.

So here’s my rationale for grade 25:

• Very beta intensive; once it was dialed it was a matter of executing and being mindful of all the micro beta. The actual effort output felt comparable to Screaming Insanity at Coolum.
• It’s comparable to, but a step or two above, Two Men Enter (24) at Flinders Peak QLD, which took me two shots.
• I’ve put down a number of sport 23 and 24s in 1-3 shots the past few months, this took 8 pink point attempts.

Just so damn psyched that I could add a sweet roof crack smack in the middle of one of the Blueies most famous multi pitches.

I really do think the movement on this makes it a classic; from the absurd long reach move into the roof, the cut loose, the inversion and a dead point to a hand jam…. it’s novel, climbs very well and the gear is primo. 👌

Thanks to John and Ondra who enthusiastically did several laps up BBB with me and to everyone who tolerated my frothing about this random roof crack I saw over a year ago.

(PS: any future ascenionists, shoot me a message if you want gear beta so you don’t have to carry the whole rack up BBB)

did in a threesome with Shazz and Shell...!! tight, but we made it before dark...!

Fuckin ridiculously good! Only one fall, on P1.

great climbing. rain and wind but totally worth it. alt lead pitch1,3,5,7,9

first pitch required a bit of draw pulling! The traverse is totally amazing!

Awesome traverse, had me freaked out. Took 10hrs car to car, 8hrs climbing. Make sure you have plenty of water I took 3 litres and it was gone by pitch 7. The area is badly burnt out so by the end of the day we where covered in charcoal.

what an epic!!, pack a full lunch!.

P1,6,7,8 are classics in their own right. No real choss. Lots of bolts. Pumpy 1st pitch.

Wind was howling which made it a long day. My 2nd multi and first one i lead pitches. Took us 12 hours car to car thanks to some slow climbing thanks to the wind

Great adventure route, loved the headwall from the traverse on, fantastic holds. Really hard first pitch...not 21, unless you pull on the draw at the crux...not that I would do that...