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A gem of a climb in a magnificent setting and historically one of the first multi-pitch sport routes in the Bluies. A rare big wall that suits lazy starters - it dips into shade after 10am in summer. Many non-lazy climbers combine it with with Smegadeath for a full day out. The route is mostly juggy with a few smaller holds and not too hard for the grade. Although it was rebolted in 2021 the original older vibe still remains - it is more runout than many of the newer sport multis - a few cams can help if this is at your limit. Take about 12 quickdraws, 2x60m+ ropes, and above all, prusiks! No bolt-plates required.

1. 40m (21) Trend left up face onto overhung juggy arete and finish up grey wall to tiny ledge and anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt is highly recommended. Approx 10 bolts.

2. 20m (21) Right trending wall on extraordinary featured rock. The orange slopes are delicious. Belay on tiny ledge under the daunting steepness.

3. 33m (23) A remarkable pitch. Left through steepness onto subtle arete. Step right onto unique and unnerving thin flake (treat this with extreme caution) and up pumpy steep wall until the angle changes to less army and more footy. Belay is right at the top of the cliff at awkward small stance (semi-hanging belay).

Descend by rapping down pitch 3 using double ropes (clipping into a few bolts to stay connected to the steep wall). [Alternatively, you can lower off pitch 3 with a single 70m rope, with a few metres to spare (knot in end!), so everyone can lead it. The oddly positioned rap rings will massively twist your rope, so its best if the first leader lowers off draws, and the second leader abseils. This also means your 2nd rope only needs to be towed to the 2nd anchor, and its bottom end can stay on the ground]. Then one long 60m rap down pitches 2&1 to the ground. 50m ropes will not make it down in one go. It's possible to do it in three raps with a bit of a swing on pitch 2. Walking off is not recommended as it puts you all the way back on the highway at least two kilometres away from the carpark.

A great long second pitch of sustained technical face climbing in good rock, guarded by an "average" boulder problem first pitch to gain the first ledge.

1. 12m (23) - 5 Bolts. Not great. Start at ground level in small cave right of the 1st Pitch of Grasshopper. Tricky start to gain roof, then around lip of roof (crux) and up easy slab to the anchors. The bolt just around the lip of the roof is hard to clip, and the 2nd is in a weird spot. Single bolt belay (backup off tree or bolts at Grasshopper). This pitch can get dirty when unclimbed, but don't let that put you off, it's all about getting to P2!

2. 35m (23) - 14 Bolts. Jump start to okay hold, then tricky moves to gain better holds. Tricky mantle, then malevolent slab sequence to the next bolt. Easier climbing out right, up small corner, then up right side of "groove" system to massive detached block. Past this (easiest to hand traverse right), then thin face climbing all the way to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

Classic sport multi up one of the biggest walls in the Bluies - and with a rare cruisy walk-in approach (no rap ropes required!). Rebolted 2022 with glue-in ringbolts so this route no longer requires bolt plates - 20 draws and a single rope is fine. Long draws and a couple of slings will help alleviate rope drag on the longer pitches. Everyone should carry prusiks. All belays are on reasonably comfy ledges and it is possible to rap retreat from 4 pitches up in an emergency - any higher and you would have to down aid the roof pitch (double ropes required).

1. 50m (22) A pumper pitch that climbs way better than it looks. Short left facing wide corner crack to start (1 bolt). Take a breath on the large ledge (belay possible if you have a short rope). Launch left and up long black face which trends left for about 35m before heading up face just left of arete. Belay on tiny awkward ledge so you can see 2nd - then move belay up 6m to larger ledge.

2. 35m (20) Annoying lip mantle to start (crux) then cruisy runout slab to reach another band of vegetation. Scramble through this and up to belay ledge.

3. 30m (22) Traverse left and up wall just left of arete. Belay on ledge below daunting orange wall.

4. 25m (23) Crux. Techy, thin and reachy wall with just enough holds. Belay under roof.

5. 35m (21) Monkey out roof and up juggy slab and then short harder wall to major ledge.

6. 45m (22) Move belay 6m right along ledge to 2nd set of anchors. Steep start then traverse 8m right across very juggy face to arete. The holds are massive but slightly nerve wracking and this traverse should be treated as do-not-fall territory given the risks of a pendulum for leader or seconder across the ironstone. Continue up wall and prow to belay on ledge.

To exit - walk off left and into funnel gully (carefully). Scramble up gully and up hill to small cliffline, walk left and around and up to tourist track which takes you back to carpark (10 mins total).

Jorge & Den

Access from the Walls Lookdown lookout.

Walk approximately 20m right (looking out) of the lookout near the cliff-edge, ignoring an in-situ rio bar eyelet. Just before a big bollard (5m left (looking out) of Jimmy Schlimm Schlammer, the vague corner behind the bollard), you will find a Carrot Bolt near the cliff edge, and an old Dynabolt 3m further back. Rap off the carrot and the dynabolt, backing it up off the bollard as best as possible.

Abseil down the line, clipping into a few bolts to remain in contact with the wall, to a semi-hanging belay over the void. Climb out past 10 ringbolts.

Some very loose rock, wear helmets!

Access from Walls Lookdown Lookout.

Walk 5m west (right, looking out) of the lookout near the cliff edge, looking for the easiest spot to downclimb to a small ledge 3m below the lookout. Consider roping up for this scramble down, it's on fragile ironstone wafers which are still snapping. Once on the little ledge, at first you'll see 4 rings; that's for rope jumpers, not for this route. Instead walk/scramble 15m east back below the lookout, to find 2 rings at the east end of the ledge. Rap 51m, clipping bolts to stay in contact, to 3 awkward-to-reach rings for a semi-hanging belay.

Quite runout at one point but on easy ground. Consider leaving the abseil rope in place, and everyone should have ascenders.

Den

Climbs the right side of the arete on the far left end of Lunch Ledge. Samarkand's bold top pitch climbs the left side of the arete on trad (some of Gob Smack's bolts are within reach).

Start 6m right around arete, go left at the top and finish as for the ice thing.

Easier 3rd pitch than weaselberger,

Major corner with a waterfall pouring straight over the top! Avoid like the plague after heavy rain or in winter. No trad required, but bring some longer draws to extend runners on pitch 3. This route was bolted and climbed in a day by the drill-masters.

1. 17m (19) Start up Slackbladder to 5th bolt, then traverse left along scrappy break to belay on small ledge. 6 bolts

2. 20m (20) Technical corner to small ledge belay.

3. 40m (23) Continue up sustained orange corner to under roof, then hand traverse wildly right along break past waterfall to join into last 5m arete of pitch 8 of Slackbladder. You might get a little wet if you dawdle on the traverse. 15 bolts

4. 16m (22) Finish up Slackbladder pitch 9 then scramble up gully on the left. 5 bolts

A dry alternative to pitch 6 of to Slackbladder if the waterfall is running onto the main arete. A bit chossy but has plenty of bolts. Starts at bolted arete on right of chossy corner 5m right of Slackbladder' Delicately up the vegetation to first bolt, then bouldery first move to gain the arete on the right. Up the arete then out left above the roof and up face and arete to hanging belay at little cave (same belay as pitch 1 of Slackbladder). A couple of bolts were added after the first ascent - but it's still airy.

…with jug references. 'Steep' and juggy, Gets sun at 4pm

Start: 100m right of yesterday's Groove at small right facing corner

1. 15m (20) Up corner, clip 2nd u with screwgate to protect runout. DUB (Double Ubolt Belay)

2. 48m (22) Up and leftwards, use long draws to reduce drag. DUB

3. 20m (23) Out left, sling second runner. BUB on right

4. 25m (20) Up and head left to DUB. Scramble up and walk left 70m to scramble up.

Brilliant face climbing on all pitches. All U-bolts.

Start as for 50 Year Itch, 120m right of Yesterday's Groove. Best to leave gear at the col, scramble down and rap down Yesterday's Groove raps

1. 30m (18) Lots of huge holds up a right trending line to get you warmed up. Belay on 2nd ledge.

2. 30m (21) Up more fantastic juggy rock to belay on left end of ledge. Move belay 10m right to right end of ledge.

3. 30m (23) Up brilliant technical wall with some airy exposure to small stance - either belay here on double rings or link into next pitch. 16 draws if you want to link the top two pitches.

4. 15m (17) Crazy ironstone features up a short wall to comfy cave belay.

To get off walk up and right to breach the second cliff line and then around and left to get to the col.