Vías en Pierces Pass

Upgraded in latest guide. Start at the crack 1m or so R of Samson Gets a #1 and follow this up to the arete. Go around the arete and past one bolt (has a biner on it as of 04/18) to desperate, disintegrating and gripping crux sequence that gets harder every time someone pulls on. If you manage to old school your way through this, continue up the slowly falling apart crack to the ledge. Rap off the block above Samson.

The middle of the three cracks. Fantastic looking crack that is visible from both the track and many of the climbs on the East Side. Easy corner to hand crack that then widens. Finger crack to finish. Rap off unpleasantly slung death block on top.

The crack a few metres left of Samson Gets a #1.

1. 28m (19) Up crack to ledge. Belay on boulders (as for Kryptonite Crack and Samson Gets a #1).

2. 32m (19) From anchor traverse 6m L to below bulging L-facing corner-crack. Traverse further 2m L to below pockets. Up to pockets then back R to crack (small wires). Pull through bulge (crux) then good climbing following crack to ledge. Find carrot belay on far R side of ledge. Rap 50m to ground (it's not a rap anchor though, only carrots, so you'll have to leave some gear behind to rap off this).

A gem of a climb in a magnificent setting and historically one of the first multi-pitch sport routes in the Bluies. A rare big wall that suits lazy starters - it dips into shade after 10am in summer. Many non-lazy climbers combine it with with Smegadeath for a full day out. The route is mostly juggy with a few smaller holds and not too hard for the grade. Although it was rebolted in 2021 the original older vibe still remains - it is more runout than many of the newer sport multis - a few cams can help if this is at your limit. Take about 12 quickdraws, 2x60m+ ropes, and above all, prusiks! No bolt-plates required.

1. 40m (21) Trend left up face onto overhung juggy arete and finish up grey wall to tiny ledge and anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt is highly recommended. Approx 10 bolts.

2. 20m (21) Right trending wall on extraordinary featured rock. The orange slopes are delicious. Belay on tiny ledge under the daunting steepness.

3. 33m (23) A remarkable pitch. Left through steepness onto subtle arete. Step right onto unique and unnerving thin flake (treat this with extreme caution) and up pumpy steep wall until the angle changes to less army and more footy. Belay is right at the top of the cliff at awkward small stance (semi-hanging belay).

Descend by rapping down pitch 3 using double ropes (clipping into a few bolts to stay connected to the steep wall). [Alternatively, you can lower off pitch 3 with a single 70m rope, with a few metres to spare (knot in end!), so everyone can lead it. The oddly positioned rap rings will massively twist your rope, so its best if the first leader lowers off draws, and the second leader abseils. This also means your 2nd rope only needs to be towed to the 2nd anchor, and its bottom end can stay on the ground]. Then one long 60m rap down pitches 2&1 to the ground. 50m ropes will not make it down in one go. It's possible to do it in three raps with a bit of a swing on pitch 2. Walking off is not recommended as it puts you all the way back on the highway at least two kilometres away from the carpark.

Groove 10m L of Bladderhozen. Start at shallow R facing corner. Take a #0.2 to #4 BD as well as the usual suspects.

1. 35m (20) Corner then short flake to stance, up and R to overlap below tiny fern, vital small wire and and cam. Up L on pockets then back R and climb the wall to the right of the vegetated groove on pockets, breaks and ironstone edges to the overlap, and bolt. Pull on to wall and easier wall climbing veering left to belay at stance above small roof in groove, cams in pockets to belay.

2. 25m (17) Up wall to large break and ring belay #4 handy this pitch

3. 30m (23) Easily up corner to ledge, right wall of corner, 2 bolts. Move onto the left wall & shallow horizontal break, 0.5 BD Crux, slightly L, up the wall (2 bolts) to flake in corner, easier climbing up corner to ledge. #4 , #0.75 & 0.3 or 0.4 BD for belay.

4. 15m (24) A great pitch. Stem corner to large horizontal below roof. L 1m into hand crack. Big holds on steep arête between crack and corner. Hard last 3m back to corner and up to ledge, DRBB. Single rack required for this pitch.

Rap 45m to rings (anchor 2) then rap 25m to anchor 1 of Bladderhozen, then rap to the ground.

If you have a x60m ropes you can reach the ground in two abseils.

4 well bolted sport pitches with shade after midday and minor weather protection in the upper pitches. All bolts and belays are glue-in rings - no bolt plates required. Try not to throw anything on the canyoners that wander along the base of the route at regular intervals. Starts 10m left of Bladderhozen, and 3m left of Church of the Seventh Samurai at far left end of small ledge at small tree and small balancing flake.

1. 14m (16) Easy face left of balancing flake to ledge. Scramble up and left 5m to belay left of giant flake. 5 bolts.

2. 32m (23) Easily up left side of giant flake for a few metres then straight up the orange wall. At 15m tread cautiously past shale band and through crux undercut. Once the difficulty eases trend right for a couple of bolts to miniature ledge belay. 12 bolts.

3. 30m (21) Long orange wall left of major corner to big ledge. 11 bolts

4. 37m (24) Tricky slab start then continue up orange wall that steepens gradually to a pumpathon finish onto ledge. 15 bolts. Rap back down the route. Double ropes required unless you have an 80m single or don't mind a rope stretch just reach the belay on a 70m.

Take at least 16 draws, a few slings, and prussiks for leader and second. Two 50m ropes suffice. All U-bolts. Pitches 2→4 are protected from rain.

1. 45m (20) Starts about 50m down L of Iron Throne at freestanding pillar (look for U-bolts). While the easiest pitch, expect some adventure. Climb chimney between pillar and wall to ledge. Left and left again past ledges (take care) and up negotiating some shale to major corner system with great rock. Up this, eventually exiting L and up ramp to belay (bolts placed high, extend to belay on ramp).

2. 25m (23) Slabbing up solid grey, then orange rock with delicate section up high, trending L to large belay ledge.

3. 25m (25) Directly right off the belay, then blast up the sustained orange wall on perfect stone. Pull on fixed sling to avoid a sandy mantle and gain the belay in alcove. Third belay bolt available for positioning extra bodies or kit.

4. 25m (25) Committing roof in an exposed position (hard to grade this pitch as it's really just a couple of steep moves through the roof then easier climbing). A couple of bolts lead to the roof (rig to minimise drag). Once through ceiling, easier climbing on large features and some sandy scoops to outrageous belay stance on the edge of the world. Leave the second rope fixed to the p3 belay to assist getting back in, or if your second isn't keen, it's possible to be lowered and clean this like a regular sport pitch. 15 clips.

From the Pierces Pass Lower Carpark, head down the Pierces Pass walking track, looking for the Yileen canyon exit track (on the right) when approximately below The Colours of Spring. Head down the Canyon Exit Track, across the creek, and back up the other side (passing below Wrath of Delilah, Samson Gets a #1 and Kryptonite Crack), and below the cliffline (past Bladderhozen, Church of the Seven Samurai and The Iron Throne) to the bottom of Yileen Canyon.

Bush bash through dense wall-of-tree in a westerly direction below the cliffline (staying high-ish) for 100m to another slot canyon (this is the abseil descent from the climbs beyond this point), and for another 100m to Mrs Mac's Crack (the first of the obvious, overgrown corner-cracks, in grey rock). 15m further along, down a slight scramble is the direct, vegetated grovel start to Tientel (look for several carrots directly above, this is Kiss and Tell (22), which shares the same start).

Better than Ben Hur is another 100m further along the base of the cliff (and up a vegetated, loose gully).

P1 12m (15) - Up dirty, vegetated, barely protected corner to groove/chimney. Up this until it ends, then left along vegetated/loose ledge to belay below the main corner.

P2 45m (20) - Up loose blocks and vegetation, to overgrown, dirty corner. Carefully up this to a nice-looking clean corner at 35m height. Layback up clean corner, then continue up to a stance on a small, vegetated ledge below loose corner above (average gear on this belay).

P3 45m (20) - Up past shale-band and through roof to vegetated corner. Okay climbing up corner past 2 bulges. Belay on rubble-strewn ledge (fixed hex), 10m below big shale roof.

P4 45m (21) - Up corner to disgusting shale ledge and shale roof. Carefully get a #5 cam (or #4 higher up) into the wide shale-crack in the roof. Through roof with much trepidation (being careful not to kill your belayer), then more enjoyable steep corner-crack climbing to huge shale/dirt ledge.

P5 35m (21) - Up tricky, vegetated stemming corner to stance below roof. Chimney through roof, and up dirty, mossy, vegetated corner above to shale-mantle next to a small cave (#2 & #3 cams out right to belay).

P6 25m (12) - Dangerously up completely overgrown and underprotected corner. Up wide crack. Up ironstone plates to belay well-back on small trees.

To escape, walk east down the steepening hill and into the overgrown canyon. CAREFULLY down the steep canyon (through a wall of shrubs/trees) aiming for a tree with multiple slings around it at the canyon drop-off. A full 60m abseil will JUST make it to the ground, or a 40m abseil (to carrots + carabiners on the RIGHT side of the canyon), and another 20m abseil to the ground.

Description as found in "Rockclimbs in the Grose Valley", edited by Warwick Williams:

Everyone raves about it.

This is a typical Grose climb that can really test your commitment and experience. A few young hard men thought that this would be a good starting place to show their mettle. Before reaching the crux, but after breaking a hold or two, they thought Nowra was a better bet.

Stepped, left leaning corner system capped by large roof finishing near Liversidge Hill and clearly visible from Hanging Rock.

Access: Follow the Pierces Pass track towards valley until it reaches cliffs. Leave track and head west crossing creek, then follow base of cliffs, crossing two more watercourses until major corner system is visible. Walking time from track to climb is about 45mins. Mt Wilson map ref 517818.

Start: Scramble up (ropes required) about 70m to base of corner following system of bushy ledges; corner begins at right end of top ledge. Take full rack up to very large SLCD.

1. 40m (16) Corner to belay (SLCD's) above small overhang with large bush, 4m below first major roof.

2. 25m (18/19) Corner to shale ledge (good runner) then traverse left 4m to break in roof. Jugs (?), then left and up corner past bush to HB (SLCD'S) below bush 2.5m below roof.

3. 20m (crux) Corner to second roof with prominent horizontal handcrack. Move left under roof, then corner to belay (SLCD's) on good, small ledge.

4. 40m (17) Corner to large roof, then left round arete to corner. Corner/slab to belay (SLCD's) 4m below final roof.

5. 30m (14) Up right on juggy wall to arete , then into easy corner.

Classic hairline splitter crack, with a mix of crack and technical face climbing. Visible on your left as you head down the main Pierces Pass walking track. You can access the top rap-anchors for Grasshopper wall via this route: Grasshopper Wall Top Approach GPS Tracklog. Bring a full rack from micro sizes to #3 Cam, with extra small-medium wires (and a set of larger RPs). Start directly below the main crack. 80m rope gets you to the ground.

1. 8m (18) - Short, dirty corner and face to ledge with 2 ringbolts. Harder than you want it to be.

2. 32m (25) - Low-angle splitter crack of varying sizes. Climb to the little rooflet with rings out left. Skip them and continue into the next section past the rooflet and wall above. Bring lots of wires on this pitch (including the small ones).

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper, in a great exposed position. P2 and P3 can be combined for a long, continuous pitch of challenging face-climbing. Start as for Grasshopper.

1. 10m (15) Grasshopper P1.

2. 15m (23) 9 Bolts. Up Grasshopper for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

3. 20m (25) 7 Bolts. A great technical pitch, but kinda wandery. From the belay, up reinforced flake system, and bust out left to bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m, then back right via hard moves on flakes to other orange streak. Up thin face to horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors.

A great long second pitch of sustained technical face climbing in good rock, guarded by an "average" boulder problem first pitch to gain the first ledge.

1. 12m (23) - 5 Bolts. Not great. Start at ground level in small cave right of the 1st Pitch of Grasshopper. Tricky start to gain roof, then around lip of roof (crux) and up easy slab to the anchors. The bolt just around the lip of the roof is hard to clip, and the 2nd is in a weird spot. Single bolt belay (backup off tree or bolts at Grasshopper). This pitch can get dirty when unclimbed, but don't let that put you off, it's all about getting to P2!

2. 35m (23) - 14 Bolts. Jump start to okay hold, then tricky moves to gain better holds. Tricky mantle, then malevolent slab sequence to the next bolt. Easier climbing out right, up small corner, then up right side of "groove" system to massive detached block. Past this (easiest to hand traverse right), then thin face climbing all the way to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Abandoned project.

Abandoned project.

NOTE: *Pitch 2 does NOT finish at the first set of chains, but instead goes up a short corner to the left, then back right under the roof to a set of carrot bolt anchors around the corner.

*After the recent bushfires, rapping off after P3 is no longer feasible (the rap tree is disintegrating), you must top out (P4) to escape this climb safely.

1. 30m (19) Start up the obvious thin crack with a hard move off the ground. Continue up easier territory to chain belay on ledge.

2. 45m (19) Up and left into steep finger crack and then left again into easy choss corner with one true guillotine block up high. Up to ledge with bolts and chain, step left into thin corner and head up to the ledge below roof. Walk a ways right and round the corner to a carrot belay. Consider belaying at the first chain before the thin corner if you have not made adequate arrangements to mitigate potentially horrendous rope drag.

3. 25m (21) Ultra desperate moves for the grade off the belay past two carrots to much easier ground. Up face to slab and then to ledge where you can belay (trad).

4. 15m Easy (roped) scrambling to top of spire.

Escape: Getting off this route is rather epic and a bit of an adventure in its own right. There are currently (04/18) some in situ slings around a large block that you could rap off at the end of pitch three if need be. Replace them or treat with GREAT caution. Alternatively you can attempt the walk off. Begin this by scrambling off the back of the pinnacle and crossing (with care) the awesome chockstone that bridges the chasm. Scramble down this chockstone on its left hand side to a large tree. Behind this tree is a slot in the rock that is about 2m deep, 50cm high and runs horizontally for approx 15m. Slide into this slot and carefully crawl on your stomach along the ledge trying to ignore the 100m drop to your left. A belay can be set up on the large tree for the leader but there is not much on the other side to protect a second. After exiting the slot wander around left, making upwards progress where it is safest and easiest to do so until you have eventually breached all the major cliff bands and can walk to the summit of Rigby Hill, all the while thinking that the walk off was probably more involved than the route. A classic Bluies trad day.

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

Classic sport multi up one of the biggest walls in the Bluies - and with a rare cruisy walk-in approach (no rap ropes required!). Rebolted 2022 with glue-in ringbolts so this route no longer requires bolt plates - 20 draws and a single rope is fine. Long draws and a couple of slings will help alleviate rope drag on the longer pitches. Everyone should carry prusiks. All belays are on reasonably comfy ledges and it is possible to rap retreat from 4 pitches up in an emergency - any higher and you would have to down aid the roof pitch (double ropes required).

1. 50m (22) A pumper pitch that climbs way better than it looks. Short left facing wide corner crack to start (1 bolt). Take a breath on the large ledge (belay possible if you have a short rope). Launch left and up long black face which trends left for about 35m before heading up face just left of arete. Belay on tiny awkward ledge so you can see 2nd - then move belay up 6m to larger ledge.

2. 35m (20) Annoying lip mantle to start (crux) then cruisy runout slab to reach another band of vegetation. Scramble through this and up to belay ledge.

3. 30m (22) Traverse left and up wall just left of arete. Belay on ledge below daunting orange wall.

4. 25m (23) Crux. Techy, thin and reachy wall with just enough holds. Belay under roof.

5. 35m (21) Monkey out roof and up juggy slab and then short harder wall to major ledge.

6. 45m (22) Move belay 6m right along ledge to 2nd set of anchors. Steep start then traverse 8m right across very juggy face to arete. The holds are massive but slightly nerve wracking and this traverse should be treated as do-not-fall territory given the risks of a pendulum for leader or seconder across the ironstone. Continue up wall and prow to belay on ledge.

To exit - walk off left and into funnel gully (carefully). Scramble up gully and up hill to small cliffline, walk left and around and up to tourist track which takes you back to carpark (10 mins total).

Jorge & Den

Starts about 25m right of Disco Biscuit (a good landmark due to the chipped square and arrow), below a good looking hand crack. Definitely not Proteus...

1. 55m (18) Up the sustained hand crack, which becomes a V-groove and finally an offwidth up high. Belay on a large chossy ledge with poor gear. Once second is up, move belay 10m right to below a nice looking face and corner.

2. 50m (14) Up for 25m to a large break, where the corner above becomes an unprotectable squeeze chimney. Unprotected crawl right along the break for 25m through spiderwebs and bird shit to a sloping ledge where you can finally get out and set a belay.

3. 40m (2) Continue walking along the break (now a ledge), past a huge loose block, through another crawl section and over to a corner with a small triangular bollard.

Abseil 15m off the bollard (we left a sling here) to a large tree. 45m overhanging abseil to the ground.

Easy to get lost

Much better alternative to Proteus. Up the striking and for the most part good quality corner at about half height of the cliff. This one great pitch probably isn't enough to redeem the rest of the zero star bush rambling.

1. (30m) Start at the base of the slight amphitheatre with some tricky vegetated ledges

2. (40m) Scramble though 30m of bushes and climb the small buttress of rock to gain base of obvious crack system.

3. (35m - Crux) Climb the obvious corner crack at about grade 16 to good belay ledge.

4. (20m + 10m scramble) easy rambling up vegetated corner.

5. (40m) Starting at the most inside section of the amphitheatre climb the obvious chossy crack until blocked by orange roofs. Traverse right with no pro for 25m and up 5m to 2 carrot belay.

6. (40m) Ramble up and right with minimal pro to gain top out. Very exposed on terrible ironstone edges.

A rad line up a funky corner crack feature with 200m of air below you. Movement is probably better than Born To Be Mild but the position isn't quite as wild. Shared ledge belay with Born to Ber Mild halfway up the wall.

Climb the well bolted exposed arete.

Old fashioned struggle with some good climbing. The rubbish pitch 1 could be avoided by climbing up an easy wide crack 15m left of the line to reach the first belay. The hard face climbing on pitch 2 could be avoided by simply walking up the two enormous boulders forming the Bridge of Sigh, if you are brave enough and if they are still there (?!). Take gear and lots of brackets for top pitch. Start in gully below yellow corners at right side of Walls Lookdown, about 30m down and left of Long, Strong or Blonde.

1. 25m Up easy ground and traverse left on shattered rock to ledge and 2BB.

2. 40m (22) Up and left to break, right to bolt and gently onto huge block. Up offwidth and into chimney. 2BB

3. 30m (18) Out to lip of roof and up excellent chimney past gear and 5 bolts to tree on ledge.

4. 10m (20) Up face and crack past 2 bolts. 2 BB.

5. 40m (22) Traverse left 10m and up past bolts, medium wire and medium cam, then up arete past bolts to scrubby ledge, bolt and cam belay.

6. 30m Walk right and up scrubby ledge to 2BB, about 15m left of major arete Disco Non Stop Party.

7. 50m (22) Up wall past many bolts.

8. 10m Up easy wall.

Access from the Walls Lookdown lookout.

Walk approximately 20m right (looking out) of the lookout near the cliff-edge, ignoring an in-situ rio bar eyelet. Just before a big bollard (5m left (looking out) of Jimmy Schlimm Schlammer, the vague corner behind the bollard), you will find a Carrot Bolt near the cliff edge, and an old Dynabolt 3m further back. Rap off the carrot and the dynabolt, backing it up off the bollard as best as possible.

Abseil down the line, clipping into a few bolts to remain in contact with the wall, to a semi-hanging belay over the void. Climb out past 10 ringbolts.

Some very loose rock, wear helmets!

Access from Walls Lookdown Lookout.

Walk 5m west (right, looking out) of the lookout near the cliff edge, looking for the easiest spot to downclimb to a small ledge 3m below the lookout. Consider roping up for this scramble down, it's on fragile ironstone wafers which are still snapping. Once on the little ledge, at first you'll see 4 rings; that's for rope jumpers, not for this route. Instead walk/scramble 15m east back below the lookout, to find 2 rings at the east end of the ledge. Rap 51m, clipping bolts to stay in contact, to 3 awkward-to-reach rings for a semi-hanging belay.

Quite runout at one point but on easy ground. Consider leaving the abseil rope in place, and everyone should have ascenders.

Den

Uber arete - probably the most striking, sustained and exposed in the Bluies (and that's saying something!). A recent rebolt and new direct start addition has pushed this back into popularity. Now all rings, no bolt plates necessary.

Fix a rope and rap 40m from cluster of bolts at the top of the arête to a small stance (double ringbolts) on the arête (about 5m below the original belay on the face).

Step around right side of arete off the belay. Up past 4 bolts to break. Truck around left side of the arête, then up past 2 more bolts (original route rejoins from the left here) and up 7 more bolts climbing on both sides of the arête as necessary. Be smart with runner length to minimise rope-cutting potential (https://vimeo.com/210809039) and drag.

It is still possible to climb the inferior original shorter version of the route by abseiling instead to a higher 2 x carrot belay on the face left of the arête, and starting up the brittle face via old carrots and fixed hangers, to join the arête at the 2nd ring on the lefthand side of the arête.

Just a linkup, but it gives you a taste of this stunning wall at a fairly tame grade, via a surprisingly obvious link of the 3 routes.

Abseil access as for Disco Non-Stop Party (via direct start on arete). Up arete past 4 bolts, then rising traverse right into The Obvious Elbow for 3 bolts, continuing rightward (past no-hands stance) to join I Have a Dream. Follow I Have a Dream up past 5 bolts and optional #0.3 cam (recommended) to top-out.

A giant 55m single pitch straight up the face between Disco Non-Stop Party and I Have a Dream on stunning rock. Now with its own (harder) direct finish!

20 bolts, and some well-placed rollers and long runners will be crucial to mitigating rope drag.

Can be accessed from the top via Walls Lookdown, or by a bolted traverse in from near Lunch Ledge (meaning your belayer doesn't have to second you) and is equipped for ground-up ascents.

For Top Access, from the Walls Lookdown lookout at Pierces Pass, walk east down the hill (following the cliffline) towards Lunch Ledge, easily spotting the sharp-looking arete that is Disco Non-Stop Party. The rap for this route is 4m left (looking out) of the bolts at the top of the arête). Rap 55m down the route to a cosy ledge.

To access the climb from Lunch Ledge, follow the normal Lunch Ledge access track (criss-crossing the creek) until just before the track takes a turn left and heads away from the little creek. Cross the creek to the right side (looking out) via convenient logs and head towards a short vibrant brown arete. Hug the rock below the arete, continue past 2 rings (anchors for Damascus below) and move through scrub until you arrive at a single ringbolt protecting the Grade 3 traverse in front (can be backed up off old carrots).

Up from the belay via easy corner. Then straight into sustained hard moves for 6 bolts. Deviate left along horizontal break to near arête, then rising traverse back right (the "elbow") to middle of face and small stance. Directly up past more hard moves separated by jugs, following the line of bolts fairly directly (no need to wander around), to a particularly hard finale.

NOTE: A hold solely useful for aiding past the crux has since snapped. If this is your limit, consider equipping this route on abseil, and placing a long running on the bolt above the crux.

Classic guidebook-cover worthy wall climb with a hell of a lot of air below you on the runouts.

To rap-in - locate 2 rings a few metres further down the hill (east) from the Disco Non Stop Party arete. Fix a rope to rings and rap 50m down the route, taking the R fork (facing in, the L fork is for The Obvious Elbow (of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter), bouncing to stay in contact with the wall (and pre-placing a few draws to direct the rope) to a small ledge and semi-hanging 2 x bolt belay. You can also climb up to this ledge via the first couple of bolts of The Obvious Elbow (accessed via Thomson & Thomson Traverse) if you don't have a rap rope, or if you prefer to climb this as a 5m longer pitch from the most cushy ledge (and are sensible with rollers/extenders).

13 bolts, with an optional 0.3/0.4 cam in a slot near the top (to mitigate an exciting runout).

A mutli-pitch route climbing a major corner crack system directly below Disco Non-Stop Party. The topos shown in the Carter print guides are possibly incorrect and show this route starting much lower than it actually does. Bring a double set of wires, a full set of cams and doubles of 0.75" to 3" sizes. Some gear was pre-placed on the first ascent and this is recommended for subsequent repeats.

1. 35m (22) Friom left end of big ledge climb crack and wall, easy to start then steeper finger crack to hand crack. Around bush and on to stance then awkward stance on arete, then crux pulling over roof (essential #1 Friend and small wire, best pre-placed on rap)

2. 45m (21). Up and left to crack, follow crack then step right to small ledge with tree, bolt. Steeper wall, big holds and pockets past rings to second ledge. Traverse right 5m to carrot, up on big holds then left before climbing onto ledge. Final steep moves up wall and arete to old carrot belay as for original version of Disco Non Stop Party.

3. 40m (19) The corner (shared last pitch with Voidophobia)

Very exposed route up a clean overhung wall - with zero vegetation or choss. Lots of bolts and air. Bring 20 draws (some long ones) and a 70m rap rope and 70m (or longer) lead rope. No bolt plates required. Only one belay is fully hanging. Route stays in the shade from 9am until very late afternoon (it's cold!).

Rap in as described above to big ledge. Pitch 3 of this route starts 5m left of the rap touch down point. For the final rap walk to far left end of ledge to double rings - rig 70m lead rope as a double rope rap - and rap 34m down face to small belay ledge just right of major corner and above amazing hanging vertical swamp.

1. 17m (21) From small belay ledge climb the right trending line across gorgeous waterwashed face to awkward mantle onto shale ledge. Some moves are pretty reachy. Semi-hanging belay. 9 bolts.

2. 17m (25) Pull on the first two bolts as aid then left leading line that gets harder the higher it goes. Lots of thin moves. Belay on left end of ledge at same anchors you rapped in on. 10 bolts.

3. 14m (22) Move belay 15m right to middle of big ledge (single low bolt to belay from). Climb short left facing fused corner, then jugs and short baffling corner to small ledge belay (DBB). 5 bolts.

4. 32m (24) Left off the belay past diving board and up through bulge and then long technical wall to under small overlap. Left under this then continue up short corner and wall above to semi hanging belay at tiny ledge. 15ish bolts.

5. 18m (20) Left up ramp and then reachy wall trending right to major shale ledge. Traverse 8m right (reversing the Thomson Traverse) to belay at double RB (where you rapped in from).

6. 30m (25) Little undercut rooflet to start then long grey wall about 10m right of I Have A Dream, finishing at anchors under small overlap. Lower-off back to ledge and walk off home. 12 bolts.

The line of old bash-in rusty carrots on the wall 8m right of Let Freedom Ring, including a hanging belay off FHs. This is probably an abandoned attempt by Giles Bradbury to bolt something down here in 90s -it doesn't look very good and goes nowhere. The rap route access for the lower routes goes down this - marvel at the unfinished vision.

A right to left traverse across a very exposed shale break protected by spaced ringbolts. It begins on the far left end of the vegetated ledge below I Have A Dream. This is the best way to access the bottom belay of Obvious Elbow.

Named in honour of my dad, who somehow managed to take a whipper while leading off it at the end of the day.

Topical discussion or spiritual epiphany? You be the judge.

A sustained new multipitch on a new section of wall at Pierces Pass, covering some nutty terrain, and with very unique climbing for the Blueys,

ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of this route!). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Pitch 4. Can rap the route from here (70m) but it is challenging due to the steepness, recommended to continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.

Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, with rap anchors a few metres further right (over the void). A 35m rap from here (bounce in and out past the overhangs) will get you to the belay below P1.

1. 35m (25/26) 18 bolts - Easy climbing to first bulge. Slightly left through this to next bulge, and up and over via hard moves, staying on the LEFT-side of the arête. Trend left, then finish via some funky stemming. Consider a few long runners for drag. This pitch has a few bolts mostly for aiding past hard moves, which are not ideal for drag if clipped on link. Move belay 10m left to next set of ringbolts below left-facing corner.

2. 15m (23) 6 bolts - Extremely bouldery start (very hard if short) to the 2nd bolt above the belay, then pleasant gr21 to the anchor.

3. 45m (26) 18 bolts - The money pitch! A Spanish-style resistance excursion. Weird climbing for the Blueys. Up via tricky moves, then long rising traverse right with all the hard stuff near the end. Up small corner, then rising traverse back left on techy small-things (and weirdly mega rock) to belay. With 4 strategically placed long-runners rope drag is negligible.

4. 15m (16) 3 bolts - 6m of tolerable climbing past 3 bolts, then vegetated scramble to belay on ledge (make use of the fixed rope!). Move belay 10m right to single belay bolt on small stance below arete.

5. 15m (23) 8 bolts - Up left side of arete. Turn the arete, and up steep jugs to loweroff anchors.

Very hard wandery face-climbing above a sucking void. Spaced (but safe) bolts and insecure moves will keep you gripped the entire way.

If it all turns pear-shaped, you can either climb out via Freedom Ring (substantially easier climbing) or ascend the fixed abseil line (if you left it in situ as per below).

ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of Damascus). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Damascus (P4). Continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.

Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, lead or self-belay across to the rings 3m further right (top belay of Damascus P1).

1. 15m (24) 7 bolts - From the belay at the end of Damascus Pitch 1, traverse right and up small right-facing flake with very bouldery moves at the start (consider pre-clipping the first 2 or 3 bolts!), then easy moves trending right to ledge belay.

2. 35m (28) 13 bolts - Up extremely sustained thin and dynamic face, with a long and very demanding crux to gain cruisy flake feature. Steel yourself for an easier but rather gripping finish. Semi-hanging belay.

3. 20m (22) 8 bolts - Step left off the belay, and traverse to join the end of Damascus P3 (be careful -no additional bolts). Link this into Damascus P4 to reach the top.

CLOSED PROJECT - Will

1. ???

2. 55m (xx) Radical wandering line linking obvious features to top out the wall.

Climbs the right side of the arete on the far left end of Lunch Ledge. Samarkand's bold top pitch climbs the left side of the arete on trad (some of Gob Smack's bolts are within reach).

Climbs the grey wall just right of the little cave.

Start: Next line of ringbolts to the right, off a higher ledge.

Start up 'Heavy Chaffing' and go right at the top.

Start about 10m further right

Start 6m right around arete, go left at the top and finish as for the ice thing.

Excellent juggy orange groove. A great warm-up or warm-down if you are climbing some of the multis nearby.

Climbs the prominent crack about 20m right of Hypothermia just before the big cave. Two good pitches in an amazing location. Recommended rack: single set of wires and double cams to #3.

1. 20m (15) Start up short slab below prominent flake crack, stepping right into shallow left facing corner. Follow crack up to gear belay under cave on comfy ledge.

2. 20m (21) Continue up crack to base of roof and plug in some gear. Climb left along roof crack to lip (crux) and follow left tending line to top. Belay at double carrot anchor set about 5m back from edge on shelf, but recommended to use climbing rope to extend belay to edge. Walk off via descent gully ~150m left.

Bolted face just left of Mirrorball. Sheds holds like an Englishman sheds skin after a day at Bondi.

Obvious wide crack that splits the upper wall. 30m left of the Lunch Ledge rap station.

Long sport pitch above far right end of Lunch Ledge, no bolt plates required. To descend either walk off left (north) 300m and scramble down gully splitting Lunch Ledge or 45m rap from cave at top (don't rap in windy weather, you'll lose a rope).

Test your nerve and skill on this little big wall in the Grose Valley.

Gear: Double rack of cams from #0.3 to #4. You could probably do it with a single #4, but two is nice. Small cams including #0.1. Wide cam hooks. Wires from tiny to thin-hands size. Pitons from 5mm to 7mm (for the time being). Hammer. Aid ladders and daisys. Jumars. It is possible to bail from the top of pitch 3 if you have two 60m ropes.

1. As for P1 of Samarkand

2. (23) Do the Samarkand "boulder problem" but turn left when you reach the break. After traversing a few metres, go upwards to reach the base of a 3m high block of choss (Dave Tower). Climb up the corner on the left side of the block to get on top of it. Be careful: you will stand on a detached stone slab which could overbalance and go over the edge. Do not put too much weight on the outside edge of the slab! Belay from gear in corner crack and one carrot.

3. (21) Climb up the corner crack for about 8m, then clip a carrot and move up-and-left onto the face. After climbing upwards another ~8m you will reach a layback flake with a small finger-size space behind it. Climb this to reach a horizontal break with a ring bolt. Belay here. Several traumatic experiences were had on this pitch before it was cleaned up. Death blocks have now been removed and one carrot added.

4. (A2+) The Great Roof. Aid carefully up the corner with gear behind thin flakes before getting some good cams in. It's worth taking a #4 if you have one to spare. Do some cam hook moves to get up to and around the rooflet to reach a carrot under the big roof. Aid through the roof crack on knifeblade pitons (which may or may not be there already, and may or may not blow) until you can start to use clean gear. The FA was done with 3 pitons, so please do try to use clean gear as soon as it is available rather than continuing to nail. Continue to the end of the roof crack, then proceed upwards a few metres in the crack to reach a ledge ~1m wide (Camp IV). Make an anchor using a carrot backed up onto two fixed pitons in the corner. The second will need to re-aid to clean the roof. If you're hauling, it's best to haul from the ground to here. A 60m rope is too short for that, but a 70 might make it.

5. (24) Changing Corners. Beware of rope drag. Climb left and up a couple of metres from the belay to reach a break. Traverse left in the break using big cams as pro and mantle onto the ledge at the corner. Climb the corner crack and then on jugs for a few metres, then reach right onto the face and clip a carrot. Traverse right, then climb upwards and clip a RB. Climb up the corner and arete (crux). A #3 cam can be used as pro above the crux. Continue upwards onto the face and climb fairly easily up to the ledge and belay from two RBs.

6. (23) Move right to the hanging arete, then climb upwards (two RBs) to a ledge. Put gear in, then climb another couple of metres up (tricky). Now climb the crack to the top. There is a crux about 2/3 of the way up where the crack is fused. Above that the rock quality and gear is not A+. Belay from two RBs in the rooflet.

It's not really a pitch, but you will have to belay a leader as they traverse left on the ledge (2RBs) to reach the cave. Belay the second from a big rock in the cave. If you're hauling, you'll need to manhandle the gear across this ledge too, possibly in multiple trips.

Some call this overhung crack splitting an amphitheatre the best multi-pitch trad route in the Blue Mountains. Every pitch is great and the access is surprisingly easy. It is however quite difficult to retreat once a couple of pitches off the deck due to the steepness. Bring prussics! This route was originally climbed ground up with an overnight bivy on one of the small ledges and with several sections of aid. Recent rebolting of the original aid bolts ladders has reduced the original bolt count by at least 3 - it's more airy but the bolts are better!

Access via the rap route described separately.

Double rack of cams, micros to Camalot #4, a single set of wires, #2 RP up, and 5 bolt plates does the trick.

1. 15m (19) The first 5m or so have average rock quality (1 carrot) then onto the slab with polished hard sandstone and RP seam. Ignore TBB below cramped little rooflet, and climb to DBB up and left with spacious foot ledge. Don't let the RPs scare you - it's not very hard.

2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start past two RBs, right along break to rejoin the crack line and up into chimney, then steep cracks. Belay from good ledge on bolt and medium cams and wires.

3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in splitter layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance (RB, trad).

4. 35m (22) The corner on good gear using crack and face holds. At a carrot at 3/4 height move up right (optional #4 Camalot in break) to thin flake and 2nd carrot, a sling on this second carrot keeps the rope from jamming in the flake. Climb to small ledge and then to ledge with short corner above. Tricky moves past one more carrot leads to big ledge and DBB. 4a. 8m (23) up the corner, traverse R to arête, up arête (one BR then a runout), to rejoin the original for its final two bolts. Lots of fragile rock (and exposure) on this pitch. Prussics!).

5. 25m (22) This would be a good rap-in and climb-out pitch in its own right if you aren't up for the rest. Follow left leaning crack until it peters out, step right then up scoop to fragile short headwall with 2 carrots. Take care mantling the grass and dirt slope (yum) and on the 10m scramble up to path. DBB.

6. 20m (22) The left side of the arête above the cave on Lunch Ledge (4m left of the bolted routes). Bold runout start off rock ledge with a key thread at 4m then easier and better protected above this. Most people skip this pitch and just walk off.

If you're planning an onsight, access per the dedicated Samarkand abseil route (see description) and take about 18 draws. If you plan to rap the route instead (slower, but you get to see what you're in for), you'll need a 130m rope. Your top anchor (DBB) is hidden 10m up and right of Samarkand's top anchor, behind grass tree. You will need a rope protector for the top edge and lots of quickdraws to clip in on the way down to stay in contact. Choosing a day with westerly breeze is recommended.

1. 12m (24) 10m R of Samarkand. A bit of a goey "good morning!" move getting past the 2nd&third, then interesting balance features. Steeper than it first appears. 5 bolts. Ledge belay (DBB).

2. 15m (28) Pull the lip, then balancy yet powerful moves past a few bolts, eventually easing to jugs and a small foot ledge for belay (DBB) in base of corner. 6 bolts.

3. 32m (27) Monster corner - the money pitch! Weaves in and out of the corner following holds and avoiding blankness. When the corner ends, there’s still a disturbing amount of climbing to go. At least three or four long slings, or more, can minimise drag on this wandering journey. Belay on ledge (DBB). 15 bolts.

4. 36m (25) The Trail Of Tears. Up through roof and the unique ‘limestone’ face above. Major ledge for belay (DBB). 16+ bolts.

5. 25m (23) Corner and short wall to finish. Anchor behind grass tree up the hill. 8 bolts.

Certain pitches were freed individually earlier, but the first ascent was done in a continuous push.

The BEST access for Samarkand and Trail of Tears.

Walk approx. 40m further along Lunch Ledge past the Samarkand top out (you'll see DBB on the track here) to where there is a block slightly downhill from the track. Carefully scramble down to the block and rig an anchor from the very long chains on the DBB (rebolted 2019).

Either abseil the dedicated rap line (entire rap line rebolted 2019) as 20m, 20m, 30m & 50m (can join raps 1 & 2 easily, or a single fixed 65m rope lets you join raps 1,2&3) to the ground; OR fix a 120m rope to the ground. Walk 30m left (facing the cliff) to reach the route's obvious start.

1. 20m (22)

2. 20m (24)

3. 25m (24) or 25m (26)

4. 15m (24)

5. 8m (25)

6. 40m (24) Maybe bring some cams.

Quite a striking line climbing a continuous corner crack system back to the Lunch Ledge. Starts about 50m left (facing the cliff) of the Mirrorball pinnacle, downhill under right facing corner. All trad with gear belays, no bolts please. Gear: wires, double cams to #3 (an extra #2 could come in handy), and an optional #6 for pitch 3. Good gear and great rock throughout.

1. 35m (17) Climb short ramp to chimney, then right crack up to easier ground. Splitter hand crack to the top of pitch. Cross short grassy ledge to gear belay in base of corner crack.

2. 35m (19) The obvious splitter corner crack to ledge. Then a thought-provoking finger crack to big chossy ledge aka “Brunch Ledge”. Belay in left leaning crack a few metres right of corner.

3. 30m (19) The steep corner crack (take care with gear). An intricate start leads to easier ground as you prepare yourself for a riveting finish. Belay in small cave under continuation of crack.

4. 25m (16) Climb crack to next ledge system, and then link the final step to gain lunch ledge. Belay in crack on wall behind Lunch Ledge trail.

Major featured corner just left (facing the cliff) and down the hill from the Mirrorball pinnacle. Take a handful of bolt plates.

1. 30m (19) Up fantastic corner past old piton with heaps of varied moves and plenty of gear to a series ledges below an awesome thin corner. Up this to double carrot belay.

2. 8m (2) Move belay a few metres right to another double carrot belay below next corner.

3. 40m (21) Follow the broken corner system up and left, passing a few ledges and into the major corner. Up this to roof and then traverse left past a bolt to the arete. Up this to triple bolt belay.

4. 25m (20) Left and up wall past three bolts to a ledge. Up death by ironstone face above to Lunch Ledge

Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear. Old fashioned 14, may be 17 for sport climbers.

1. 40m (14) Up rad chimney passing four bolts and good cams on both walls (hint, turn around) to bolt belay on the far side of obvious ledge.

2. 20m (14) Bridge up through minor choss passing one or two bolts to funky overhanging corner. Climb through this and belay at bolts atop the Mirrorball pinnacle.

3. 35m (10) Easy right-hand traverse passing the odd bolt and bit of gear to belay on two rings.

4. 15m Up whichever way looks nicest.

Start approx 10-15m left of West Face of The Mirrorball where the crack constricts above the obvious wide chossy chimney (wide start may also go direct. Not climbed on FA due to presence of angry snake.)

1. 40m Tie belay to tree and gingerly traverse right to gain corner crack. Up into steep wide corner (# 6 Camalot) then over bulge onto easier terrain. Crack then steepens into left leaning diagonal to big ledge. From here plug in some high gear and extend to reduce drag, then traverse right approx 10m to single carrot bolt and gear belay (in middle of WFotM p2).

2. 15m Climb the obvious beautiful finger splitter (grade 20,), or if finger cracks aren't your jam also possible to climb up past 3 carrots to next ledge system to the same belay (grade 17). DBB as for p3 of WFotM.

3. 20m Up chossy wall for 5m past carrot, then trend left aiming for the notch past a variety of terrible threads and finally good large cams in horizontal. Traverse low beneath scarily large loose blocks (don't squash your fingers!) Up short hand crack to DBB on top of pinnacle.

4. 40m up easy slab past average gear clipping as few bolts as possible for trad purity, then fun steepening orange corner left of WFotM p4 to ledge and belay on rap anchors.

Four pitch, bolted (carrots), slightly runout climb with epic views across the valley. Take 10 brackets. You can finish the route with an extra pitch by doing the confusingly named Mirrorball (21) pitch above Lunch Ledge.

Start: On outer left (NW) arete of the Mirrorball Pinnacle. Look for the line of bolts (carrots, take brackets).

1. 25m (19) Up arete to ledge, with DBB.

2. 30m (18) Up arete and face to chossy cave, left along ledge to high DBB.

3. 20m (17) Up face to big ledge.

4. 45m (18) Up face, to Lunch Ledge, moving right at 2nd ring. Pretty exposed.

The obvious chimney & crack that splits the front face of the Mirrorball Pinnacle.

1. 25m (13) Up the chimney on natural gear (#5 camalot is handy for near the top). Double bolt belay.

2. 18m (20) Weird undercut wide crack start (large cam is handy again) then up the narrowing crack to the classic finger-crack (crux, well protected with medium-large wires). Double bolt belay.

3. 20m (16) Bolts (bring lots of brackets) and dinnerplates. Double bolt belay on top of Mirrorball Pinnacle.

4. As for pitch 4 of 'The West Face of the Mirrorball'.

All bolts are stainless steel glue-in hex heads (bring lots of bolt plates!). A good variation is to do P1 of 'The West Face of the Mirrorball', then step right to do P2 of 'Dirty Dancing', then P3 of either route - the belays are on the same ledge systems.

The classic of the area.. A great mix of styles on great rock. The top 3 pitches above the lunch ledge are not to be missed.

Easier 3rd pitch than weaselberger,

Climb the south-facing (downhill) arete of the free-standing pinnacle 40m past Weaselburger, predominantly on gear.

5 carrot bolts and a double rack of cams. Bring more big cams (#3 an #4) if you get scared on trad.

Rap off anchor at the top, 45m straight over the route.

Climbs a great wall with an inspiring seam. Two awesome pitches, two nice ones and two easy chossy ones. Take 16 draws. Starts 30m right of Burgermiester, up a gully, below a left facing corner. It is possible to traverse left at belay 3 to escape, but you will need 3 bolt brackets.

1. 40m (22) Layback corner. 12 ubolts

2. 40m (25) Follow amazing seam to belay on right (the 2 belay rings are widely spaced due to hollow rock). Crux is at low roof.

3. 30m (21) Follow seam onto large ledge.

4. 30m (18) Easy choss, out left and back right to hanging belay.

5. 45m (23) Up sustained wall trending right. Very crimpy!

6. 10m (10) Up easy ground past a UB to ledge.

Mixed climbing up a prominant crack line and around some huge roofs. Rock is of varying quality, but bolts protect the worst of it, and the spectacular under-roof traverse is on mostly good rock. Take a standard rack plus extra big cams and hexes to fist + size, many slings, 10 brackets.

Start: Start below a steep yellow layback corner (pitch 1 of Blue Ruin) 70m right of the Mirrorball pinnacle.

1. 45m (18) Up corner to second ring, long slings (or come back and unclip the ring) and easy traverse to right arête and carrots, step around and up layback flake to ledge. R to next corner (BR), R along ledge, up then left to U and carrot belay.

2. 35m (18) Up corner R of the belay, step R and up corner (BR), step R and up corner past 2 bolts, traverse left at top (BR) to carrot and U belay.

3. 25m (19) Wander out left and up corner past cams and bolts, then back right past 2 more bolts, continue up rightwards to ledge. 3BB.

4. 35m (20) Up to ledge (2BRs) then a hard move in the corner past bolts and up to roof and bolts. Massive traverse under 18m roof underclinging thin hand to fist crack, clip ring at lip to avoid rope jambing in crack. Pull lip and up ramp for 4m to 2U belay. Easier to lead than to second. Well protected but gripping.

5. 35m (18) Up easy ramp and follow wide crack to large roof, 2U belay on lip.

6. 25m (17) Up corner and groove (BR), step left into chimney (BR) and up easily to bolts on ledge on right.

If you like chimneys, this is a 3 Star classic. Makes for a great bit of extra climbing if you're already out doing Darkside or something similar.

Bring a double rack up to #4 plus one #5 and #6

Start at the base of the obvious chasm 20m right of Big Trad Thong.

Make your way up the endless enclosed chimney following the obvious formation (eats gear), then about 3/4 of the way up thrutch your way to the chock stones.

Sling a chock stone (whichever feels most solid), then thrutch some more until you are reborn into the outside world.

Tree Belay. As of Nov 2019, the slings and maillon for the tree belay look to be in great condition.

Used to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay. Don't go as a party of 3 unless you are experienced, it eats too much time. If you have a pack, haul it on the second rope if you're getting tired. Don't leave toilet paper or rubbish, you're in a National Park, behave accordingly and don't get on routes like this if you don't know what that means.

People have stupid epics on this all the time. Please read :- http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=26665&Replies=58&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 50m ropes (for rapping down, or retreating), 16 draws and a few slings.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 6, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap in as described above then walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m to red rope and BBB sign:

★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress 18 - 20220101_075236.jpg

Now scramble up and right to a ledge 15m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Walk 10m right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the boulder problem start. (If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far).

Print out topos and route description or save them to your phone, as you probably won't have reception down there.

1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

2. 20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

5. 40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

6. 40m (18) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Rope drag possible, but its fine if you sling the first 4 bolts. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Rope drag possible, but it's fine if you sling the first few bolts.

Obvious roof crack 5 metres right of Bunny Bucket’s pitch 6 start. Use the first 3 bolts of BBB’s pitch 6, climb up to ceiling and then traverse right (size 6 cam to protect) to enter the roof crack. Requires two 5s and one 6 size cams.

Climb easy face and finish at trad belay on obvious ledge (BD 2 and small wires).

Rope drag is manageable on a single rope with 1-2 roller carabiners and several long slings.

Rappel from trad anchor to clean face (60m rope is fine). Re-lead and then back clean roof and traverse.

A more funky version of BBB, with a bit more variety, but pumpier and more climbing. If you waste time on belays this will take a long time. Start in big black corner leading to orange wall 20m R of BBB, and 10m left of a huge sloping boulder sticking out of the ground near the track. If you are benighted, go left to the Blue emergency bin on BBB around pitch 6. See notes on BBB.

1. 25m (19) Loose then up reachy corner. There are a few small chain hangers on the first 2 pitches, people have threaded them.

2. 20m (19) start on left and up then airy traverse R to belay ledge. Possible to link P1 & P2.

3. 25m (19) up weird v corner on slab to ledge

4. 40m (18) Boulder start then up and r to corner, move around arête and up to grassy slope, up 8 m wall to belay at top

5. 25m (17) up slope and up arête past bolts to belay on top. (second could wander up to the base of the wall after you've clipped the first ring to give you a better belay -less rope stretch- for the hard move out of the cave).

6. 20m scramble left a move, up corner, then right to belay on tree on right. Can join P5 and P 6 but you'll have drag unless 2nd moves up as above.

7. 15m (18) up wall on right, clip 3rd bolt (above ledge) with screwgate to limit fall

8. 30m (19) up L to corner then huge traverse left under roof and up wall. Awesome position

9. 20m (17) Walk L 5 m (can move belay to here) and up pumpy wall to cave

10. 30m (18) Up wall and head right. Up slab, pass first belay and go to 2nd set of paired rings (you can link P9, 10, 11 into 2 pitch by belaying at first set of rings)

11. 30m (19) Up and right to nose. Step R around nose to undercling and up, later unclip that bolt to reduce drag then left to arete to finish. Follow BBB access to escape

Awesome 'finger-pickin' fun, or 23 M0

Start at pillar beside track before reaching California's buttress.

1. 25m (21)

2. 45m (26 or 23M1)

3. 30m (21)

4. 30m Scramble

5. 30m (20)

6. 30m (20)

7. 30m (21)

8. 30m (18)

The Original, Classic, Epic.

The first three pitches were retrobolted January 2011 entirely on RBs/UBs/FHs, so no brackets are required, although it's wise to take a couple in case you have to share belays. The first three pitches (17, 8, 19) of CC linked into the top of HC makes for a sub-20 outing.

1. 45m (17) Low angle cracked face then slab just left of arete to ledge and anchors. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

2. 15m (10) Short vertical crack. This pitch can be linked into pitch 1. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

3. 40m (19) Thin black face trending slightly right to ledge. Clip high bolt (with difficulty) then crux horrible chinup/mantle onto short face and up to ledge and tree belay. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

4. 10m Trad corner about 15m left of Hotel Cali's bolted line.

5. 10m Short thin corner to big shale ledge. Walk 10m left to belay.

6. 40m (22) Follow the Hotel California traverse on the top head wall for 5 bolts then head straight up the seam crack on good but spaced trad to a poor carrot belay on ledge. (U rap station 8m R and down)

7. 45m (22) Hard moves over the bulge (two BRs) then straight up the epic trad protected juggy face. Take 8 slings. carrot and U belay. Scramble up hill to cave. Walk right and up short rock step to under chossy upper cliffline. Walk left under this clliffline and up exit gully.

Lots of fun and still an adventure, top 3 pitches of Hotel California are fabulous! You want to be solid with exposure! Start first two pitches of CC. First pitch to ledge at 40m but don't stop here, go up through bush then up 5m wall to DDR belay (60m). Second pitch 40m to ledge then traverse right along ledge onto last 10m of 3rd pitch of HC. Follow Hotel California from there.

Pull thru on gear on first pitch and go up escape gully to avoid choss at the end of pitch 8.

10 pitch sport route (all rings or homemade stainless hangers, which some odd-ball fat nosed biners struggle with, but take bolt plates for the carrots instead incase, and for the anchor above pitch 3, and in case the belays get too crowded). Rap in as described above, then walk right past pinnacle at 40 m, hit base of cliff at 100m, drop down, then go up to cliff (near start of Big Nose). Walk round the base of buttress and drop down a bit, then go up and you can see a 8m pinnacle/flake leaning against the steep face. This is the start. About 350m walk. There is a much easier variant to the first 3 pitches by starting up Contented Cows, all rings at 17, 8 (12m), and 19.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 5, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

1. 45m (22) Up and left to ledge, through overhang, further up and left, through roof, then back right to the belay.

2. 30m (20) Straight up the groove until easier climbing, then up and left to belay on ledge.

3. 40m (17) Up and slightly left to ledge, then pull through roof and up. Scramble to base of next short wall, belay off homemade hanger and carrot (TAKE HANGER FOR CARROT!). Old tree anchor seems to have either degraded, or was a poor choice to begin with.

4. 35m (10) Up short wall, then scramble up and left about 30m through vegetation to the base of the cliff corner and anchors (rescue drum here).

5. 30m (17) Up the right wall of corner and arete, then traverse left to the ledge. Carrot + RB Belay.

6. 50m (19) Up onto the wall then traverse right about 20m and up following rings to ledge and belay.

7. 30m (20) Thin move to start, up to roof and jugs, pull through and up to ledge.

8. 25m (18) Up wall, then jug haul through the bulges to the top. Belay anchors are back and right about 6m in a small cave.

9. Scramble up and left to the base of the choss cave, then right around the base about 20m to the start of the last pitch. (You can escape left and up gully from this ledge).

10. 20m (16) Straight up the wall to belay at anchors on top.

To exit, see notes above.

Major corner with a waterfall pouring straight over the top! Avoid like the plague after heavy rain or in winter. No trad required, but bring some longer draws to extend runners on pitch 3. This route was bolted and climbed in a day by the drill-masters.

1. 17m (19) Start up Slackbladder to 5th bolt, then traverse left along scrappy break to belay on small ledge. 6 bolts

2. 20m (20) Technical corner to small ledge belay.

3. 40m (23) Continue up sustained orange corner to under roof, then hand traverse wildly right along break past waterfall to join into last 5m arete of pitch 8 of Slackbladder. You might get a little wet if you dawdle on the traverse. 15 bolts

4. 16m (22) Finish up Slackbladder pitch 9 then scramble up gully on the left. 5 bolts

A monster sport route, with great exposed arete climbing on every pitch bar one. If you want to do the full route, rap in via Mirrorball and walk along base of cliff past Bucket Bunny and Hotel California' You can also just climb the last 4 pitches if you rap in down Yesterday's Groove. Equipped on a rainy night, the bolts seemed too far apart in the light of day, thus 4 more were added after the first ascent! If it's been raining avoid this route for at least a few days as a temporary waterfall blows onto the arete at pitch 5. Bring 20 draws, prussics or an ascender, double ropes and enough time!

Start: Starts aprox 100m right of 'Hotel California' below major arete.

1. 15m (21) Little corner then right onto rounded arete. At ledge walk right and step across gap and up short chossy crack to belay under main arete.

2. 17m (25) Bouldery and powerful. 'Monkey' over roof and swing left across lip to gain arete. Up this to comfy belay ledge.

3. 29m (25) Up arete with devious moves for 15m, then traverse right onto face away from arete for several metres, then trend left back onto the arete at flake to finish. Bolts up the arete direct are an open project. Belay in large slot under roof.

4. 25m (23) Thug over roof and up aretes to belay on vegetated slope at DUB.

5. 50m (5) Scramble up hill side to 7m fixed rope. Hand over hand or prussic up this (rope was installed in 2010 - stay roped up and take care!) and continue up vegetated hillside to arrive at base of upper wall.

6. 35m (23) Face to major arete with offset seam on the right side. A pumper! Hanging belay in little cave.

7. 25m (22) Technical arete on small ironstone edges. Hanging bolt belay or link into the next pitch for full value!

8. 18m (22) Up the wall and then left to arete and up to large cave belay. A little bold. You can bail from the end of this pitch by scrambling up the gully to the left (roped).

9. 17m (24) Bouldery. Crawl right through cave and peer around lip to find hanging belay bolt. Re-position belay. Rightwards up face on crimpers, then back left up pumpy wall to easy death by ironstone.

A dry alternative to pitch 6 of to Slackbladder if the waterfall is running onto the main arete. A bit chossy but has plenty of bolts. Starts at bolted arete on right of chossy corner 5m right of Slackbladder' Delicately up the vegetation to first bolt, then bouldery first move to gain the arete on the right. Up the arete then out left above the roof and up face and arete to hanging belay at little cave (same belay as pitch 1 of Slackbladder). A couple of bolts were added after the first ascent - but it's still airy.