Nodos en Birrabang Walls

Technically Birrabang Walls are the cliffs opposite Dalpura Head on other side of Birrabang creek. Most routes described here are someways further south.

Rap 35m straight down to pitch one top anchor then another 30m rap to base of corner using teatree to keep close to corner on second rap. , first ascent fixed a 40 static and climbed w/ 60m single.

1. 30m , 20. Hard polished stemming and slabbing. Bring comfy shoes and flexible limbs.

2. 25m , 12. Cruisy horizontal pitch. Do not link this into next pitch.

3. 20m , 24. More horizonal traversing. Delicate line of pockets and crimps to an intense technical reachy span sequence followed immediately by pumpy horizontal sloper campusing , move fast! , then up to 3UBB. Would be a tough onsight.

4. 20m , 15. Up to bolt then into the caterpillar trap and grovel your way through the horizontal. Stay deep for first 5 meters. Like doing a hundred pushups. Keep a keen eye out after about 12m for a small dab of red glue near edge. Then poke your head out and there is a ubolt right above glue. Clip this then emerge via jugs above and continue across to belay in a spectacular position.

5. 35m , 23. Up long commiting pitch with excellent climbing on good rock. This pitch is the reason your here!

6. 20m , 22 , A one move wonder-lunge at second bolt then left on jugs to some pockets and continue left up some average rock to comfortable belay.

7. Hike left past bolt up to big tree. 15 Short quickdraws is plenty. Given the hardest pitch is horizontal, prussics are advised. Half the belays are semi-hanging/or small arse sized.

Wall gets Sun between 1-2pm. The route you rap down to start Roslyns. A great middle pitch and a fiesty crux pitch. A squillion bolts. Walk down to ledge at base of Roslyns pitch 4 or rap from very top as is described in 'Roslyns'. Rap from single u-bolt above large tilted block 20m down scrubby slope to top anchor. Rap 25m kicking out to next rap station on left. Rap either 45 to start ledge or build rap point with chordelette @ 30m where the two routes split (swing right) at ubolt and FH.

1. 18m , 22 , First pitch of Roslyns. Hardest straight off belay.

2. 30m , 22, Up through great variety of holds and a reachy crux from a restful position. Sustained on nice rock. 14 draws.

3. 25m , 24, Direct up mostly jugs to some tough sequences leading through steep terrain. Keep your eyes open on the black headwall and then easy to top.

4. Optional finish up last pitch of Roslyns or walk off.

The route on large streaked red face a few hundred meters east. Aproached by turning left and following ridge after first saddle of approach. Best to bring a 50m rap line and leave fixed at top. Rap 50m from top rap point to triple bolt belay on ledge beneath rooflet. Rap 25m from here clipping quite a few bolts on your left until you can get to top of small elevated pinacle/platform. Single U belay.

1. 25m , 23 , A very good and sustained pitch. A dyno guards the lower wall. Blow it , pull up and find the good hold , come down, re-tie and enjoy the rest.

2. 30m , 26 , A slow burner with a good variety of moves culminating in a powerful cross from a shallow mono/crimp.

3. 30m , 24 , Tricky traverse with some hidden holds to a crux move then fairly sustained climbing easing a bit through top half.

Top of climb is located behind small outcrop next to flat rock platform as is pictured in a topo pic. then rap down 'Future in Runes'.

1. 18mtrs. Grade 21 , 9 Bolts

2. 35mtrs. Grade 22 , up and right eventually arriving at spectacular hanging arette, 13 Bolts

3. 20mtrs. Grade 21 ,up face to rooflet , around this and back left then up. 11 Bolts

4. 20mtrs. Grade 22 , good little pitch with a different style of climbing. 10 Bolts

Please refrain from leaving Cairns or other markers. Retreat would be an intense affair via Burrakorain Flat then up to Mt Vic Falls not before hours of Lawyer Vines followed by Permian sediment choss-a-lanches so take care. (intrepid hikers feel free to update with better bail out options)

Please refrain from leaving Cairns or other markers. Retreat would be an intense affair via Burrakorain Flat then up to Mt Vic Falls not before hours of Lawyer Vines followed by Permian sediment choss-a-lanches so take care. (intrepid hikers feel free to update with better bail out options)