Ascensiones en Cooper's Crag

Funky climbing where I never really felt totally comfortable in any of the sequences, cool to come and do it today without too much of an epic!

I had two laps on this more than two years ago and didn’t manage much of it at all, but came back today and finished it off with only a few dramas. On my second lap I completely bungled a sequence at the second bolt and lost a whole bunch of energy and all of my calmness, but figured I was already up there so I might as well send it anyway. So I battled onwards, climbed it worse than I have ever climbed anything before, but somehow clipped the chains. Cool. Bottom end of the grade, but probably a bit harder if you’re short. (x2)

Fell off the top crux on the 2nd shot after making a few mistakes. 1st shot bolt to bolt checking the moves. Quite intense reachy crimping split by a few good rests. Awesome route but let down a bit by the rock quality.

Pikers variant.

Punter.

Don’t really understand how I pulled this off but I made it to the first break. Seeoft!

Couldn’t even pull on the small crux crimps!

3 laps. A bloody good hard face route, with lots of tricky moves and surprisingly sustained. Would probably be 26ish except for the very hard, body-tension crux in the lower half. If I can get that crux properly sorted (I did the sequence in isolation a few times) this route will go down. Totally worth another visit.

Pretty amazing action packed line. Such variation in styles and holds. Just missed the crux on second lap, same on third. Next time

Draws up in the sun... gets the shade at 12!!

Warmup. A bit weird.

Too tired, will go next time

Crimp fest

So close!! Wrong foot and I came off just when I was about to hit the jug after the crux.

Went for the onsight! Didn’t get the onsight! Smoked!

Finally, first ascent without hold? Can I down grade it ? 25!!!(156455)

Boom!!! Broke the side pull before push mantle!

Fantastic climbing on great Rock! Pretty stoked to get this second shot, could have definitely gone both ways at the early crux!

Whipped off the last hard move FML! Cracker!!!

Faarrk! We both should’ve done this today but we took too many goes to work out all the good beta and both fell off the top. I managed to rip 4 holes in my hands across 4 attempts on the route and left some blood behind, sorry. Will go next time.

Classic corner crack with an awesome first pitch and a good but much easier second pitch. I went all the way to the top in one go with only a double rack and definitely missed having some extras in the hand sizes. We rapped off a tree on top to the anchors on Wizball and then rapped again to the ground which was super straightforward. If moderate cracks are your thing then there is definitely a day of tradding to be had at Waylander, and this should probably be first on the list!

Onsight to the main crux near the top, which -considering the complexity of this route- I was pretty psyched to onsight that far. Just so... many... hard... sequences, stacked one upon another and all the way to the top. Not as nice rock as Airwolf, but very memorable climbing and tough for the grade.

A great companion route to its neighbour, with a similar composition to Wizball, but with a significantly harder start, and less "good holds" to chill out on to break up the intensity. Immaculate rock and just a genuinely well-conceived line.

Second shot today, fourth total. Really great route that is marred by the redpoint crux being snappy and crumbly. Everything else is super fun and interesting with a few cool improbable moves. I broke off a large jug up high which was exciting for sure! Good to get it done.

Short and intense from the get-go. Amazing rock and climbing, marred solely by being briefly contrived to earn the grade. Complex and powerful for a face climb. Definitely recommended.

An amazing long technical face in classic "cosmic country" style, with all the hardest moves coming at the very top (though the first half is no slouch either). Skipping the crux draw was key to my Send, and on my penultimate lap I fell off at about the highest point I could, and took one of the biggest lead falls I've ever had. Gripping!

Absolutely huge towering line with stellar climbing! Absolute classic!!

Had a really good flash burn, made it through a lot of the hard stuff but got spat off on the top slimpers just not knowing how to go upwards anymore! Second shot I fell off because of a foot slip just before committing to the run out, was fairly pumped, don’t know if I would have sent that shot! Should go next time! PSYCHED

Very cruxy, nails thin moves in the middle to a surprisingly lumpy top section. The key heelhook through the crux unlocked that sequence for Paul and I, am keen to hopefully send it next time!

Sometime to go up you must go sideways. Technical slabbing.

Really mega really, very old school style and grade. One of those routes where you feel insecure the whole way but still make upward progress. Very strange reaches in spots and lots of tricky feet. A great challenge. Second shot.

Two shots with the sore wrist before deciding it was time to stop climbing for the day. Radical bottom half on great rock to a slightly crunchy crux up high that i punted off messing up my feet. Awesome to see Jenna crush it though!

Went right instead of left. Nooo.

2nd shot. Great technical face climbing. Rock deteriorates towards the top but not too bad.

Sweet compacted trickster climb.I thought I was off at the 4th bolt but spotted a crucial footer just in time. This climb pays to just keep moving, got stalled at the last move but recovered just enough to commit fully.

Two shots on this until i was eventually thwarted by my own sickness. On the first lap every move felt like an impossible crux as i tried to work out all the beta but, after Jason figured out the stuff i hadn't, i got some great linkage second go. Rad to see Jason send this second shot despite his "i haven't climbed in a few weeks" doubt!!