A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Kladnig Nikhilesh Sharma John Drake Tim Clarkson Nick Clow Mike Patterson ACANSW Jason Lammers Gavin Simon Vaughan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Dragon's Tooth Area 17 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Dragon's Tooth Area
- Summary:
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Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca
Lat / Long: -33.556356, 150.219786
restricciones
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Acceso
Do not approach from Bardens, that path is closed for revegetation. Just approach from Wentworths gully, it’s no further. Dragon's Tooth is hard to miss, a prominent corner to awestrike the connoisseur.
Walking time: 5-10 mins
Ética
Many and varied, please try to respect them all!
Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Calamity Jane
4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess. PA: Ivan Valenta | 26 | 20m | |||||
2 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
Classic. The obvious wide corner crack. Rack recommendation: A single rack of cams with #4. You don't necessarily need a #5 or #6. At the start, bump the #4 cam as high as possible (deep in the crack) and then as your next pro, see if you can find a thread runner (a pocket that you can sling around). Either step R to the lower-offs of adjacent routes, or go to tree belay at the top then walk out to the road. PA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974 | 12 | 30m | |||||
3 |
Project 1 / . / Project?
Start: Sparse older carrots on wall 3m right of DT. From the ground, it appears to require gear between 1st and second carrots, then ? PA: Unknown, 2000 PA: Unknown, 2000 | 20 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★ Ooops
Line of obvious fixed hangers between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete to loweroffs. PA: G Short P Mort, 2008 | 18 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Technical Stuff (direct start)
Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS. (Is this the same route as Mombassa?). | 19 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★ Mombassa - left arete of TS
(Is this the same route as TS DS?). | 20 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Technical Stuff
Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter; brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete. PA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979 | 17 | 20m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★★ Hermaphrodite Hamster
Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab 2-3m right of Technical Stuff, to DRB. PA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009 | 25 | 20m, 6 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★ Samnivel
Great wall climb. Thin in places. All rings. Start: 3.5m right of TS. PA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982 | 22 | 20m | |||||
10 | Mistral(variation) | 16 | 20m | |||||
11 |
Mistral
Crack 3.5m right of S. Up onto blocks then corner to top. PA: J.Bishop & J.Aalders, 1974 | 12 R | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Fohn
Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princess DRBB lower off. Rack recommendation: Single rack (#0.3 to #3, with double of #2) and a set of compulsory nuts. PA: W. Williams, A Halkyard & K Melville, 2009 | 15 | 20m, 1 | |||||
13 |
★ Panasonic Princess
All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world. Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall to loweroffs. PA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002 | 21 | 20m | |||||
14 |
★★ Metabo Man
Start 1m L of MMR, up the slab then the nice leaning grey headwall 2m L of MMR. All carrots, but the first one is high and a tricky clip so either clip the first carrot of PP on the left or bring a cam. PA: J Allwood, 2000 | 20 | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish. Start: 4m right of M. PA: M. Gray & J. Smoothy, 1982 | 23 | 20m | |||||
16 |
★★ Roger's Smegma Chute
Start 5m R of MMR, one high FH in grey rock then the orange headwall on rings. A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states an attentive belayer is required, no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be. PA: Roger, 2008 | 25 | 20m | |||||
17 |
★ Malignant Polymer
Start: 5m right of MMR. PA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1983 | 22 | 30m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
12 | ★★ | Dragon's Tooth | 30m | ||
12 R | Mistral | 30m | |||
15 | ★★ | Fohn | 20m, 1 | ||
16 | Mistral(variation) | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ | Technical Stuff | 20m, 6 | ||
18 | ★ | Ooops | 15m | ||
19 | ★★ | Technical Stuff (direct start) | 20m | ||
20 | ★★ | Metabo Man | 20m | ||
★★ | Mombassa - left arete of TS | 20m | |||
Project 1 | 15m | ||||
21 | ★ | Panasonic Princess | 20m | ||
22 | ★ | Malignant Polymer | 30m | ||
★★ | Samnivel | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ | Mal's Mega Route | 20m | ||
25 | ★★ | Hermaphrodite Hamster | 20m, 6 | ||
★★ | Roger's Smegma Chute | 20m | |||
26 | ★ | Calamity Jane | 20m |