Ayuda

Dragon's Tooth Area Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Adrian Kladnig Nikhilesh Sharma John Drake Tim Clarkson Nick Clow Mike Patterson ACANSW Jason Lammers Gavin Simon Vaughan

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Dragon's Tooth Area

Summary:
E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

17 routes in Crag

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -33.556356, 150.219786

restricciones

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

heredado de Blue Mountains

Acceso

Do not approach from Bardens, that path is closed for revegetation. Just approach from Wentworths gully, it’s no further. Dragon's Tooth is hard to miss, a prominent corner to awestrike the connoisseur.

Walking time: 5-10 mins

Ética

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

heredado de Mount York
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Calamity Jane

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

PA: Ivan Valenta

26 Deportiva 20m
2 Dragon's Tooth

Classic. The obvious wide corner crack.

Rack recommendation: A single rack of cams with #4. You don't necessarily need a #5 or #6. At the start, bump the #4 cam as high as possible (deep in the crack) and then as your next pro, see if you can find a thread runner (a pocket that you can sling around).

Either step R to the lower-offs of adjacent routes, or go to tree belay at the top then walk out to the road.

PA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

12 Clásica 30m
3 Project 1 / . / Project?

Start: Sparse older carrots on wall 3m right of DT. From the ground, it appears to require gear between 1st and second carrots, then ?

PA: Unknown, 2000

PA: Unknown, 2000

20 Desconocido 15m
4 Ooops

Line of obvious fixed hangers between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete to loweroffs.

PA: G Short P Mort, 2008

18 Deportiva 15m
5 Technical Stuff (direct start)

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS. (Is this the same route as Mombassa?).

19 Deportiva 20m
6 Mombassa - left arete of TS

(Is this the same route as TS DS?).

20 Desconocido 20m
7 Technical Stuff

Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter; brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

PA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

17 Clásica mixta 20m, 6
8 Hermaphrodite Hamster

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab 2-3m right of Technical Stuff, to DRB.

PA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009

25 Desconocido 20m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Samnivel

Great wall climb. Thin in places. All rings. Start: 3.5m right of TS.

PA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982

22 Deportiva 20m
10 Mistral(variation) 16 Desconocido 20m
11 Mistral

Crack 3.5m right of S. Up onto blocks then corner to top.

PA: J.Bishop & J.Aalders, 1974

12 R Clásica 30m
12 Fohn

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princess DRBB lower off.

Rack recommendation: Single rack (#0.3 to #3, with double of #2) and a set of compulsory nuts.

PA: W. Williams, A Halkyard & K Melville, 2009

15 Clásica mixta 20m, 1
13 Panasonic Princess

All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world.

Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall to loweroffs.

PA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

21 Deportiva 20m
14 Metabo Man

Start 1m L of MMR, up the slab then the nice leaning grey headwall 2m L of MMR. All carrots, but the first one is high and a tricky clip so either clip the first carrot of PP on the left or bring a cam.

PA: J Allwood, 2000

20 Deportiva 20m
15 Mal's Mega Route

Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish.

Start: 4m right of M.

PA: M. Gray & J. Smoothy, 1982

23 Deportiva 20m
16 Roger's Smegma Chute

Start 5m R of MMR, one high FH in grey rock then the orange headwall on rings. A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states an attentive belayer is required, no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be.

PA: Roger, 2008

25 Deportiva 20m
17 Malignant Polymer

Start: 5m right of MMR.

PA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1983

22 Clásica 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
12 Dragon's Tooth Clásica 30m
12 R Mistral Clásica 30m
15 Fohn Clásica mixta 20m, 1
16 Mistral(variation) Desconocido 20m
17 Technical Stuff Clásica mixta 20m, 6
18 Ooops Deportiva 15m
19 Technical Stuff (direct start) Deportiva 20m
20 Metabo Man Deportiva 20m
Mombassa - left arete of TS Desconocido 20m
Project 1 Desconocido 15m
21 Panasonic Princess Deportiva 20m
22 Malignant Polymer Clásica 30m
Samnivel Deportiva 20m
23 Mal's Mega Route Deportiva 20m
25 Hermaphrodite Hamster Desconocido 20m, 6
Roger's Smegma Chute Deportiva 20m
26 Calamity Jane Deportiva 20m
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