Wentworths Gully Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Macciza a.k.a. Macca Craig Hitchcock Laef Hosking ACANSW Graham Dowden Adrian Kladnig John Drake Mathew Hutchins-Read Josephine Roper Jim Croft

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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1. Wentworths Gully 8 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Wentworths Gully

Summary:

Estacionalidad

8 routes in Crag

Arenisca

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -33.555067, 150.218137

Resumen

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

descripción

Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.

restricciones

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

heredado de Blue Mountains

Acceso

The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest.

Alojamiento

Mt York campground is closest spot to stay.

Ética

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

heredado de Mount York

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Unknown 19 Ring-bolted lonely line just to left of the descent gully. Goes alright and a reasonable addition to the area. Needs to be cleaned up a lot.	19	Deportiva 10m, 7
2	★ Grand Larceny A good looking line. Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff. PA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974	13	Clásica 30m
3	★ Inter City Blues Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top. Start: 4m right. PA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982	18	Clásica 25m
4	★ Horcrux Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off. PA: G Short, P Mort & J Smoothey	18	Clásica 22m
5	★ Chastity Hat Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high. PA: J Short & P Mort	17	Deportiva 20m, 7
6	★★ Unknown 6	20	Deportiva 20m
7	The Wrong Corner Is this Top Stopper of the 2015 Bluies Guide? Surely climbed before 2013. 16m (12) Corner then crack in wall to veg ledge. Belay from thread or extend runners and proceed... 17m (16) Corner and crack to tree. PA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan & Mike Patterson, 1994	16	Desconocido 25m
8	Unknown Marked. to the right of Krell Start: About 15m right. Under the roof. PA: Unknown, 2000	19	Clásica 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
13	★	Grand Larceny	Clásica 30m
16		The Wrong Corner	Desconocido 25m
17	★	Chastity Hat	Deportiva 20m, 7
18	★	Horcrux	Clásica 22m
	★	Inter City Blues	Clásica 25m
19		Unknown	Clásica 20m
	★★	Unknown 19	Deportiva 10m, 7
20	★★	Unknown 6	Deportiva 20m