Ascensiones de Auntie Jack

Seconded up after some Lord. Need more endurance! Killer route absolutely loved it

evening send

Missing link-esque

Hadn't done many face trad climbs so was a bit anxious. Don't find any secure nut placement til to the upper section. My gear was a bit spaced at the bottom, a few shallow nut placements that I thought just wouldn't hold so skipped em? Would love to test them in a safe way. Glad I had cams. Don't get on it 19 is your max. A a fantastic experience 😀

Had an onsight lead attempt but backed off at the top of the flake. Wasn’t in the right headspace or too confident in my placements. Right decision, I also had a handhold snap while having a top rope burn and nearly fell off!!!

Who am I to argue it's classic.

25 year repeat. Less gear than I remembered but not as pumpy.

Nice climbing made engaging just by being on decent spaced gear with those bomber nuts to finish. Very, very soft for the grade with the crux off the ground and before the bolt.

Outstanding. My head for trad isn't great felt like more grade 19 moves than I'd expect. Annoying there's no anchors when snack crackle pop area is absolutely covered in bolts. Especially when there's 3 or 4 Carrots on the route itself. Made a 5 piece anchor at the top in the choss cave to clean. So much unnecessary faff. Would recommend the route to anyone

Couple of fun moves followed by jug city. Nice to top out.

Amazing climbing. Gear was a bit sparse through the low crux, and my scared self pumped out searching and worrying instead of doing, so I sat at the break. Glad I did it and loved it overall, but more in a type 2 sense.

Fun climb

Classic for sure. Those nuts are a joy to place

Expecting a pure trad line, i kept going past the carrots to the arete. Obviously missed the real route and got into some generic rubbish. maybe i'll be back

Today didn't feel like the day for this. I got the carrot clipped and then really struggled at my height to place the next nut without risking a terrible ground fall. Luckily the bail onto the route next door turned out to be great. Zipper was awesome but needs an anchor. I'm just going to come out and say it, Aunty Jack needs an anchor too. The tree everyone used to use has been torched and is unreliable now and the pockets in choss are shit if you actually think your second might struggle or God forbid, you have to haul them... Other than that, this is probably a fine route.

not the day for stout runouts above average gear for me. i found it scarier than than taipan at zigzag. bailed at 1/3 height (after said runout, bleh)

Felt a bit sketchy at the beginning but thoroughly enjoyable and plenty of space for wires

Loved it, face climbing on gear

Bailed to the bolt on the right when I was way too far above my last piece. Hello lonely little cam, way down there! Maybe I should stick to climbing at arapiles because I like gear I feel like I can fall on Other than that a nice route

A serious day out to be honest. First half is very spicy with an added touch of fiddly wires for flavor and seasoning.

Confidence level remained static even while climbing past wires whose soul purpose was to calm the dynamic mind.

Quality of route: Character building classic

Gear used: 0.3 to 2 BD camalot with a compulsory set of wires (make sure the small stuff sits at the front of that biner).

Fantastic route, but a bold lead in my opinion. The gear is great overall, but a bit spaced in the first third. I placed a 1/2 micro walnut in a very shallow crack and shat my pants climbing pass it, but I guess it's all good experience! The tree that the book tells you to belay on top is not straight above the route if I did the right route! I belayed Robin in the cave with some really shallow but bomber cams.