Ascensiones de Fuddy Duddy

I never log ascents. Just wanted to add the block in the MIDDLE of pitch 2 looks like its getting closer to being a flight risk. Not the previously discussed belay ledge block.

Exciting second pitch and ridiculous chimney squeeze on the thirds.

Amazing second pitch and amazing chimney. Really enjoyable climb

True adventure climb! 🫠

Repeat with Robin and Caitlyn but a total Alzheimers onsight, including going the wrong way on P1; future reference, just stay on the right side.

P2 was easier than I remembered with no off-widthing required.

P3 start was still hard as shit and I didn’t remember the chimney being that tight but I still had an absolute blast of a time. So good!!

Definitely sections of “do not fall” on P1 and P3.

A really nice climb

A few notes

The first third of pitch one, up the slab has very little pro. There are no bolts or carrots at the top of this pitch. There is some gear in the wall at the top of the block (belay piont) but you will have to look for it.

Do not underestimate the off-width on pitch 2. We only used one bolt plate and that was on pitch 2. Having a #5 or #6 cam is handy for this pitch. But probably not essential. There is a DBB at the top of pitch 2.

The first move off the blay station for pitch 3 is very difficult compared to the rest of this climb. Pitch 3 is a chimney. If you climb inside the chimney you will only fit if you are thin/small and will not fit with a backpack on. If you step to the outside of the chimney there is more space but less gear. Choose your own adventure. There is a DBB at the top of pitch 3.

This climb gets sun early... like 10am

Really good route nice jugging for P1 just sandbagged myself by making a right angle in the gear near the top, belayed from carrots off to the left. P2 has one hard layback section and might be a grade or so harder, Justin realised the left his phone at the base of the climb while having a snack at the bealy for P3. P3 was a nice boulder to start, again probably sandbagged for 13 but fine either way clipping an old piton on the way to the chimney, the chimney was super cool i just wish i had been carrying less gear, ended up only placing a 5 a nut and another small cam near the top. A 6 would have been nice on P2

Awesome

Father-Son bonding

Evening tradventure, the sequel. Old school classic

What an absolutely amazing day out!! Opted to not do the direct start as it looked horrifying. The other start was fun up until the void of death. I saw Evan's foot just make it and thought it can't be too bad. Evan and I cracked ourselves laughing as we tried to figure out how I'd get across. My best solution was just to jump and go swinging. I started down climbing to let go and then realised I could just get my foot across. Fun. The second pitch I lead and got to the offwidth section and had a battle with it but it won. My blood is there for the proof. Evan seconded and ended up avoiding offwidthing by reaching to an OK hold out left. I was outraged he'd avoided the fun I'd had with it! Rest of pitch was fun! Last pitch was an absolute blast up the chimney and overall a fantastic day out!! You definitely go for the adventure. Beware it's chossy, run out and has limited pro but that's the fun of it! Will definitely do again such a fun day!

3 stars not for the rock quality (choss), pro (average) but for the adventure 😂

Enjoyed the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Chimney was fun and had good enough small/medium gear

So damn good after the first pitch!

Whoa… crazy first trad multi experience. That chimney is something else.

Now this is what we came to narrow neck for. We started the day off with a cruisy run up cave climb and had a blast. Rapped back down our fixed line and had lunch under a shady boulder while we waited for our other party to finish. We conducted a "wife swap" of seconders as Yim likes to call it then Jack and Johnny started up the regular start of Fuddy Duddy. Jack intially enjoyed the beginning of the route then cursed the rest of it and recommended we check out the direct start and save ourselves some dodgy climbing. At this point we had no idea what we were in for. Yim tied in for the direct start and on the very first move his eyes lit up like a kid on Christmas "BOOOTYYYYY! MY FIRST BOOTY I AM SO HAPPY!" As he pulled a #9 dmm nut out from the boulder on the ground. A stellar start to the route, less can be said about the rest. Yim consistently cursed the route being full of spiders and choss, "The most disgusting route i've ever climbed" then he was faced with the dilemma of either the chimney or a sketchy uncertain face climb, so the chimney it was. Towards the top of the chimney Yim turned to loving the pitch, the joy of successfully soloing an unprotected chimney. Until this point probably took about 20 mins, then after another 10 minutes and noticing the middle marker of an 80m rope passing on a 30m pitch I had to tell out and see what was going on. Yim had decided to nail down and link the first two pitches like an absolute machine and I had to follow. Backpack on the pitch 1 chimney was absolutely fucked and did not spark joy. No protection, choss sandstone galore, holds breaking everywhere and my backpack between my legs being caught on everything. The sun decided to peer through and absolutely beam me as I struggled my way up reaching onto anything above me, blinded by the light. I made it through to the view of Yim manically laughing from the top of pitch 2. Choice words were exchanged towards the pitch and towards Yim for finding a sick joy in the climbing. Pitch 2 was an absolute off width battle. Knees were barred, chickens were winged, the crux move at the carrot certainly a struggle for grade 15. Somehow during the crux battle my chalkbag dislodged itself and fell into the abyss. Upon reaching the top of P2, exchanging more choice words, breathing for the first time in 30 mins, we saw another party coming up behind us. Tom and Jay, two more unlucky souls who had succumbed to the direct start. Saved my chalkbag though, absolute heroes. Pitch 3 had a clear grade 18 boulder problem start. Some crucial permanent tick marks stop you from hitting the deck but definitely weren't expected on a "grade 13" pitch. The chimney climbing here was surprisingly pleasant and flowy?? No protection yet again, but if you traverse towards the face half way up leads to a significantly better time than squeezing through the narrow part, pick your poison I guess. The top out was glorious. We meandered back to the car with the sun shining in our eyes asking if the warm beers had manifested themselves into coldies, to an unknown voice exclaiming that they had. The fellas had made friends with Kiki, a lovely girl that was doing a lap of Oz and was taking warm beers in exchange for coldies in there fridge, an absolute life saver. Tom and Jay met us at the car and we had an absolute yarn for the next hour over further beers. An absolutely perfect day out on incredibly unique climbing with bonus friends at the end, couldn't ask for much more.

Todays installment was a day out at narrowneck to climb the bumblers. Cave climb first on the menu. Will forgot to leave the big gear for j and y so i had to lower him halfway down the climb to re-place it all. Had a undies shower in the trickling waterfall; i wish theyd turn the pressure up on that thing. Some difficulties finding the start of fuddmania but ended up shooting for the carrot. Told will and yim the first pitch was shit and maybe they should go direct start. They ended up taking over 2 hours longer than us to complete the climb with some large solos. My hands were too sweaty to fist stack the offwidth on p2 but werent too sweaty to grasp a fistful of dyneema. Johnny and i hung out at the car for a bit before a girl named kiki drove past in her truck asking for camping advice on the area. She ended up doubling back despite my lack of help and gave us freezing beers and chatted to us until the boys came back. 2 other lads followed them out the top of the chimney and joined us for a bev for sunset. Kiki seemed interested in climbing and was encouraged by the vibe of post climb beers but yims 20m run out chimney recount quickly eroded her enthusiasm for it. She was also potentially not 100% convinced we were real climbers after 50% of us (yim and i) almost came off the boulder problem that was mounting wills car roof with racks on. Hardly a V6.

We did the direct start and I wouldn’t recommend it. It was loose as and I pulled off a few blocks and broke a foothold or two. The rest of the climb was rad. Start of the third pitch is definitely at the hard end of 13

Repeat just as good as i remember. Could get away with a single rack of cams to hand size, and a set if nuts.

Went all the way to the back of the chimney and out the little cave. Super tight!

a thrutch a day keeps the doctor away ❤️