Ascensiones en Federation Peak

Fucking awesome.

Great fun. Linked the first two pitches. Good gear when it’s there. Some moves felt 18. Guide book descriptions seemed unclear but it’s easy to follow a corner/good placements on the face. Unsure of why I can’t choose onsight on the crag selections. Great arvo out and less sketchy than the summit track down 😅. After reaching the top scramble back and left to find the walking track. Would recommend.

Not as dodgy as people suggest, just exposed. Would be dangerous when wet. The Southern Traverse seems much more dangerous with loose rock. Max dislocated his shoulder on day one and had to be helicoptered out so missed out on the summit, but the rescue guys kindly took him on a flyby

Awesome adventure. It was a long way down.

Pretty rad walk! Definitely would've been nice to be able to rap down.

Pretty exposed at times, we didn't take a rope for it, and were suffering a bit on the way down

Easily up there as one of the most terrifying hiking routes I have done. Blessed with perfect weather and views for days.

Great rock great location, possibly the most direct path to the summit, straight off the walkers track, more of a make your own adventure we mainly stayed on the slabs, plentiful holds, spaced but good gear, probably around 16 the path that we took, linked pitches 1 and 2, 3 and 4 and finished up the variation to the left for 5 and 6 a good route/consolation prize if weather is iffy as it was for us.

first ever climb on Fed, was a bit wet in a section but ok. set a fixed line for the rest of the crew to get up with bags full of gear.

climbed more on the actual face but still very easy.

awesome stuff to get on a main feature of the whole face. michael did the 1st slab, cruxy and spicy traverse into arete and I filled in the rest. I unfortunately couldn't hold a move at the end of the traverse when going out onto the SUPER exposed arete, but got up it after the rest.

was on second once michael lead, stoked for FA

FFA. Can't believe we actually got up it! Was doing movement much harder than the grade route finding gear and holds on the steep pitch. Sandbagged myself climbing upwards into grade 23 territory with no gear or holds at the final traverse. Had to down climb and make a very tenuous hanging belay. Words can't describe how much exposure there is on the arete! The smeary feet and progressively thinner, pumpier under clings add to the atmosphere! The easy climbing after has 3 star exposure but is pretty run out. Would give the route more stars but don't want to draw traffic. Rock quality was bloody good overall, Some of the holds and gear in the flakes where uncertain. A fall at any point on the climb could have high consequences.

FFA. Probably the best route I've climbed as an fa, stellar line, brilliant movement and bomber gear. What more could you ask for! Sequences seemed quite hard initially, Wasn't sure if it would go so pre-placed gear on lead and it was easier than I thought. Still a pumpy number, would be a hard one to onsight ground up.

FFA. Accessing the highline rig, fun route! Just enough pro and some dubious rock made the line quite engaging.

Down climb from summit to get water.

Climbing back up with a rope and rack to work alpine high.

yeah its a pretty nice climb to be on that side of the cliff. shame i couldn't do the direct through the crack system, but a critical block fell off (a week ago)? and the traverse was a bit too spicy.

Did in 7 pitches, probably tad off route for the first half but the better climbing is in the second half anyway. Seconded the traverse pitch and led the chimney.

Slinging bush's is basically sport climbing. Chimney pitch was pretty radical! Couldn't ask for better weather. Three days in total.

Poor objective climbing on poor rock, though the INCREDIBLE exposure and position more than make up for this! The most unique route I've been on, and a highly valuable experience!

Lucked out with 5 days of no rain out there, though we awoke at 4:30am on Day 3 (our climbing day) to thick mist which made it harder to find the proper blade, ending up starting up the cliff just past the blade. After scrambling up 120m+ of scrub we realised this, abseiled back down into the gully off the R side of Blade Ridge, and fortunately found a way to mount the ridge from here.

At first climbing I was a bit out of sorts, not having done much of this style climbing for a long time, but after a few pitches I was back and firing to go. Battling drag is key on this for speed - the answer to this is usually running it out with the many aretes and corners to navigate. Man the ridge climbing is incredible! We reached the top of Blade Ridge at 6pm, and made the decision to not continue up the NW Face through the night and figure out the descent at night. Rapped and traversed into the left gully and climbed out back to camp.

Not without loose rock and poor gear, but heavy on exposure and position. Although the NW Face has a greater balance of good climbing movement, good rock, gear, and exposure - in my opinion the pure uniqueness of Blade Ridge trumps this.

After having done the Blade the day previously, Ryan and I were going to walk out. However, it was a blue bird day and the disappointment in not being able to climb the NW Face the day was still fresh in our minds. Mid-packing up at around 9am we decided to drag the trip out and climb the NW Face. Our excitement and satisfaction in the epic climbing of the day before propelled us up the NW Face which does not disappoint. Great position, the remoteness, decent climbing in certain sections, and good rock (apart from the roof traverse) makes this a classic!

What a trip blessed with amazing company, a feeling of being in another world, remoteness, uncannily bluebird weather, and out there climbing. Very thankful.

Downclimbing this was easily the most scared I was the entire trip. That view of the lake below the downclimb is awesome in the true sense of the word, and terrifying. After taking some time to compose myself, it wasn't so bad. Just have to keep moving slow and assuredly. What a crazy hikers route.

Hiked up, bivvied on the summit and then down the following morning. Ridiculously improbable route, the exposure is unreal. We were very grateful for clear skies and dry rock - but also felt like we missed out on the true SW experience as a result!

Unreal positioning! Not the greatest climbing (except the chimney pitch which was actually good). Single rack 0.3 - 4 was nice with doubles 1&2. More runners the better with double shoulder lengths being super useful. Rock and gear was pretty decent in most sections bar the traverse under the roof which we found genuinely scary with delicate moves and lots of hollow rock waiting to fall

Made it to below the roof pretty happily, decent (relatively) gear and rock (and bushes) up to there. Started traverse out to the crack for the direct route. Wall seemed very blank excepting one big block which looked solid enough. Tapped the block to reveal it was terrible. Struggling to find any other features to hold I lightly pulled on the block. Moving block the size of my body with such little force sent shivers down my spine and the block all the way to the ground. The traverse now seeming very challenging and heart rates up a bit higher than preferred we decided to retreat and complete the original route. The traverse for the original route also had a lot of terrible rock and required very delicate movement. Also note 'Simon and Joe Go gardening' shares the same crux pitch as the direct route. Worth reading that description as it seems a lot more accurate

There are harder moves by a long way on Moss Ridge tree trunks. 3 day mission farm house creek return, summit in perfect weather from cutting camp and back there again on day 2. The scramble up is very easy but exposed once I stopped looking for climbing routes and started looking for cairns. Beautiful country with a light pack. Not sure I would lug a rack and rope in there. Will probably upgrade it to classic tomorrow with a good nights rest.

Very small 6 hour weather window, trad climbed the far eastern side up a wet crack. Was an epic to get in and out.

Wild adventure on one of the wildest places in Tassie. Route finding was hard, i doubt we got the whole route right. The description is very limited, the pitches were long and could wander. We down climbed some things went left, went right or zig zagged. Whatever it took to link safe path through some good and some questionable rock "questing" up the West face. Probably condition dependent, but with no sun in the cracks-seems it was wet on gear placements. Long run outs were frequent and much of it 'no fall' climbing. There is no other record of ascents anywhere, so maybe some or none since 1971! Adventure climbing dudes....

Rather wet, sketchy loose scree.

Got a little prematurely excited and ended up trying to climb the wrong blade ridge, we put up a new route in the process called "That must be Blade Ridge", 110m bush 19 R/X * mega classic.

Luckily we had a spare day to climb NW face in consolation prize, no suprise we climbed the wrong start requiring a 30m abseil off tree roots to below Blade ridge to get back on route. Rest of the climb was cruisy, the crux roof pitch had a good bite to it! Sensational views up there! Worth it for the heinous 13hr approach? Find out for yourself!

Farmhouse Creek approach - swampy dense rainforest and spider webs are the real crux

Just getting there & back is equivalent to doing 12 back to back tough mudders. For 3 days. Not sure what we soloed but it wasn't grade 5 (update: something on the West Face in the 12-14 range!). Good rock, amazing adventure/exposure (unlike anything I've done in Australia to date).

great climbing scarry exposure!