Nodos en Halfway House

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed), or 'Troposphere' or 'Aphelion' (sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.

Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall.

Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join Tenacious D to finish.

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

1. Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared anchor on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

2. Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find anchor underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

Start: At The Court Jester's anchor.

Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake. Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of The Court Jester.

Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

Start: At the landmark roof.

The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner to The Court Jester's anchor on ledge.

1. 12m (22) Start 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Buddha, The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge the shares a anchor with The Court Jester's first pitch.

2. 25m (23) Directly above anchor. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides the anchor. 35m rap to the terrace, or a short rap to Dagda's anchors, then 25m to ground.

Climb Maponus' first pitch but instead of heading left to The Court Jester's anchor continue directly up past three FH's to the anchor. Adds a lot more pump and air.

Link Up - Climb Voluptuous then at the last bolt head Left into the savage headwall of Dagda.

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak.

A high pull-on jug, then perfect finger slots. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge with anchor. A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three bolts - has proved more popular now with five.

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous

Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge.

Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated anchor.

Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach.

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks.

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse.

Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall.

The bolted orange corner.

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting.

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then shares anchor with DV8.

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line.

The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

Climb Dreadnought's corner to the very top. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up for 15m looking for Storm Watch's anchor. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.