Mostrando los 16 nodos.
Nodo |
---|
Clemency Wall
Routes are listed from left to right. |
16
★★ Clemency
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track. |
23
★★ Sent From Above
Or below... Access via Clemency's third pitch DBB then climb 5m L over mega choss with gear to ledge. Or rap in from Halfway House. To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m left from the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m. Five FH's with one exposed bouldery section to anchor. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb Apricots. |
16
Apricots
Start from the Sent From Above anchor. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House. |
22
★★ The Mace
3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation. |
20
★★ Alienation
4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade. |
19
★★ Divergence
Start: At the "D", directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up, 2m L of Guenevere. Climb 4m up to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge and clip FH. Steep corner through bulge, then follow up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge with DBB from here you can continue up the Tested Twistical variants. |
22
★★ The Twisticle Connection
This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.
Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency. |
17
★ Tested Twisticle (Left)
This route starts from Divergence's anchor. Head straight up, past 2 FHs, then head L to white flake jug with Piton. Head straight up from here. Joins the 18 variant at small ledge. Clip 1 final FH just below the Caritas anchor. |
18
★ Tested Twisticle (Right)
This route starts from Divergence's anchor. Take the shallow corner, right, following the bolts, then up left, to a small ledge (rejoins the 17 here) & up to another ledge, from where you should be able to see the Caritas anchors and orange corner. Follow the FHs to the anchors at the start of Caritas. |
22
★★★ Caritas
This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. Superb climbing. Up the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above. Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there. Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency. |
28
★★★ The Simon Vos Memorial
Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really, as a tribute to Simon's bright orange hair. Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there. Start: Up Caritas for two bolts, then step left onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful side-pulling crimps to ledge. Re-join Caritas for its last 3 FH's to finish. Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency. |
17
★★ Guenevere
Start: 6m L of Lancelot, at the "G". A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.
|
18
★ Lancelot
Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.
|
16
★ Dreadnought
Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit. Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.
|
18
Dreadnought VF
Starts at the base of Dreadnought's eighth pitch.
|
Mostrando los 16 nodos.