★ Lancelot 18

Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.

1. 20m (14) - Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far left of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).

2. 30m (16) - Walk all the way back to the right end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and right aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip peg before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB.

3. 25m (18) - Climb up onto block on far right of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby right-facing corner. Clip peg and traverse right under blocks to another peg. Climb straight up the wall above (crux) with scant protection to slab. Up and right to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and peg belay.

4. 15m (15) - Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (left-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m left on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.