Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak Epicurean Terrace | |||||
17 | Desperate Dan
Wanders its way up the ground (the word is used deliberately) right of 'Epicurian' in search of rock that will stay attached to the cliff.
PA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood & Mike Stone, 1974 | 60m, 4 | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Pump Rock | |||||
22 | Pumping Hate
| 18m | |||
20 | Trumpet Pumpet
| 17m | |||
24 | Happy Boy Gets a Pump
| 15m | |||
9 | Pet
| 11m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range The Guardians | |||||
12 | Aegis
There is a rap chain and ring at the top of Separation Anxiety that serves these first five climbs. Aegis starts approximately 40m right of Chicanery at a detached flake/pinnacle on the right hand edge of an orange wall.
PA: Peter Jacob, Peter Watling & Kathy Burman, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Separation Anxiety
Excellent steep climbing on good holds. Start 2m R of Akimbo.
There is a rap chain and ring at the top (a 53m abseil back to the starting terrace) PA: James Scott-Bohanna & Steve Tol (alts), 6 Mayo 2018 | 57m, 2, 1 | |||
19 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal
P1) 18 Climb Separation Anxiety to FH at half height then diagonal right to base of the hanging V corner. Up a body length or two then spacily onto the right arete and up to belay in alcove as for chicanery. P2) 19 Up and left to gain the fantastically airy left diagonal crack that slashed the headwall between SA and C. Climb it and live the good life! PA: Tim & Mark, 20 Nov 2021 | ||||
19 | ★ Chicanery
The most prominent line up the guts of the main wall. Take some big gear.
PA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1973 PAL: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1977 | 48m, 2 | |||
11 | Akimbo
The steep juggy groove 20m left of Chicanery. Climb the groove (L of the blank-ish wall) to exit slightly left via a short chimney. PA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Jacob & Anne Pauligk, 1973 | 45m | |||
16 | I'm Going to the Blade
The following four routes are located on the small outcrop in front of / below Akimbo. The L-most crack. PA: Michael Hampton & Peter Bovino, 29 Feb 2020 | 18m | |||
17 | Snooze You Lose
The next Crack to the Right. A tricky start hen generous pockets to the top. PA: Peter Bovino, Michael Hampton & Jenna Harris, 29 Feb 2020 | 17m | |||
15 | Can't Shake a Poop
The next crack to the right of SYL. PA: Peter Bovino, Michael Hampton & Jenna Harris, 29 Feb 2020 | 16m | |||
15 | Dirty Birthday Surprise
The R-most crack, finishing in the notch. PA: Peter Bovino, Jenna Harris & Michael Hampton, 29 Feb 2020 | 16m | |||
19 | ★★ Guardians of the Galaxy
The following three routes are on the front of the big pinnacle left of the main face. GOTG takes the left hand of two major lines on the face just around right of Sentinel Corner (SC is a prominent line with an enticing finger-crack-corner part way up).
PA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1 Feb 2019 | 34m | |||
20 | ★ Sentinel Corner
some small gear useful for the crux.
PA: Mike Stone & Geoff Gledhill, 1971 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | Sentinel Corner Variant
PA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1987 | 30m | |||
16 | The True Believers
These next two routes are located on a wall up and left from the top of the Main Wall (Chicanery etc.), and can't easily be approached from below. Either approach from above (i.e. from the Sundial car-park) or access after doing one of the climbs on the Main wall.
PA: Stephen Hamilton & Tim Burke, 1990 | 18m | |||
18 | Mister Ped
An enticing natural line. Hand-crack on the left side of the amphitheatre. R-slanting crack in narrow face to bushy ledge on R. Step R, up crack, then over block. PA: Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton, Michael Hampton & Gary Schmitt, 1990 | 35m | |||
Southern Wonderland Range Lower Sundial Peak | |||||
18 | Chopping Block
| 30m | |||
Pomonal Area Crazed Rock | |||||
15 | Orchid
This is on a small wall up left of the main cliff. The wall 4m left of a diagonal weakness and large tree on the left side of the face. Climb above the bulge then finish up the cracks on the left. PA: Graham Gittins & Wayne Maher, 1992 | 23m | |||
16 | Fool's Gold
The attractive left-facing flake-crack on the lower tier, towards the left end of the face. PA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1987 | 20m | |||
19 | The Desperate and Divided Years
A very good route that climbs the major, left-facing corner in the upper left section of the cliff.
PA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran, 1992 | 35m, 2 | |||
19 | Jane Duff Memorial
Good, varied climbing. Cairned. This and other names commemorate the experience of walking in circles below the crag in thick fog.
PA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1992 | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | Sisters of the Sun
PA: Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher (alternate leads) & andrew webb, 1992 | 26m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Late for the Sky
A very good climb
PA: Glen Donohue, Wayner Maher (pitch two) & andrew webb, 1992 | 26m, 2 | |||
19 | Adrianne
Variants on Late for the Sky. Climb up the corner, as for Late for the Sky, but continue up the crack. Head left below an overlap and up the hanging corner as for Late for the Sky. Traverse right at the overlap to a flake, head up this and the crack above. PA: Wayne Maher & Graham Gittins, 1992 | 25m | |||
18 | Lost in the Bush
Good Climbing. Head up the juggy crack on the small buttress 1m right of Late for the Sky. Pull onto the slab above the steep section and go up to the overlap. Go 2m right under this, then climb the wall to join Epic Master at a small tree. PA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1992 | 27m | |||
17 | Epic Master
Tackles the middle of the main orange wall with good, sustained climbing. Needs cleaning. Climb the lichenous groove with chicken heads near the middle of the wall, and 2m right of Lost in the Bush. This leads to the foot of an orange ramp which sweeps up left past a small tree to finish steeply straight up. PA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1992 | 28m | |||
18 | ★ Cash Cow
Brilliant corner.
PA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter (alternate leads), 1992 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | Face Value
Fierce and sustained wall climbing with mediocre protection.
PA: Wayne Maher & Chrix Baxter, 1992 | 40m | |||
20 | Grazed Kids
Good. Start on the bushy terrace behind the top of Fool's Gold and The Desperate and Divided Years up the left of the two shallow, left-facing corners. Climb up to a crack in the bulge, then the twin cracks through the next bulge. Finish up The Desperate and Divided Years. PA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 25m | |||
Pomonal Area Dazed Rock | |||||
20 | Project Blizzard
The name is apt, it describes the conditions of the first ascent. The climbing is fair. About 7m left of the right end of the cliff a ramp leads up left to a small eucalypt (landmark) at 6m. From the tree, climb the wall for 2m, then traverse 2m left and climb the major crack. PA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1992 | 20m | |||
Pomonal Area Blazed Rock Main Face | |||||
7 | Rain, Hail or Shine
Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay. PA: Matt White & Caillan Sainsbury, 1 Nov 2014 | 20m | |||
15 | Rogano
Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks. Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall. PA: Chris Cope & Carol Robinson, 1987 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Red and Blue
Undercling then layback out of the cave and move up to an overlap. Move slightly right and climb the wall to a groove high on the face and an easy finish. Start: Starts as for Punchdrunk. PA: Chris Cope & Carol Robinson, 1987 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Punch Drunk
Quite nice. Start: Starts left of Thunderbirds Are Go! at the cave just left of the arete on the main cliff. PA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, Gelnn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1983 | 25m | |||
18 | The Climbing Barrel
| 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Thunderbirds Are Go
Sustained route on (mostly) great rock that weaves its way up the arete at the left end of the cliff; sure to get you pumped. Typically started just left of the arete, but can also be started just right of the arete. Snakes to the right of the arete at about half height, then finishes up the corner. PA: Craig Nottle, Kevin Lindorff - Alt. Leads - as well as Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, Michael Wust & Lady Penelope (originally done in two pitches), 1983 | 25m | |||
23 | Modesty Blaise
Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground. Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go! PA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990 | 35m, 1 | |||
22 | Fireball XL5
Go left and up into the corner just right of an easy line. Climb the corner to the ledge, easier climbing leads to the top. Start: From the small ledge on 'International Rescue' PA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991 | 32m | |||
19 | ★★ Grim Reiver
Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy' PA: Ian (Humzoo) Thomas, Phil Cullen & Andrew Bowman, 1977 | 25m | |||
13 | ★★★ Grumpy
Guide books describe this as "It makes you grumpy because it is harder than it looks". Consensus is that it makes you grumpy because it is harder than it is graded! Leaders should be confident at around grade 15/16 before tackling this climb. Start: Start beneath the obvious chimney/offwidth (initialed) close to the centre of the face. PA: Bob Connell & Bruno Zielke, 1970 | 31m | |||
26 | Velcro
Power and finesse. Start: 3m left of 'All Out' PA: Mike Law, 1992 | 30m, 5 | |||
10 | Not Out
Up the crack past a ledge and tree(?) to the top. Start: 7m left of 'Gnome' PA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1970 | 31m | |||
17 | ★ Gnome
A great climb. Start: Right end of the cliff beneath an overhang (initialled). PA: Bob Connell & Bruno Zielke, 1970 | 31m | |||
18 | Flight of the Sunbird
Climb the flake-crack to overlap. Step right to arete. Up corner. Start: Curving flake-crack 2.5m left of 'Gnome'. PA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997 | 32m | |||
13 | Arsenic Hour
Previously overlooked for good reason. Start: Corner right of 'Gnome' then continue up and left on wall to ledge. Left arête. PA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997 | 30m | |||
Pomonal Area Blazed Rock Pawn Outcrop | |||||
15 | ★ Black Boy
At the left end of the face there is a corner. Climb this then move right and finish up some jugs. PA: Aidan Banfield, Martin Bradshaw & Malcolm Beard, 1990 | 15m | |||
16 | Bawn
1m left of Yawn go straight up the wall, passing Yawn along the way. PA: Terry Boyd, 1991 | 10m | |||
9 | Yawn
Climb the left diagonal 5m left of Prawn Crack to an easy finish. PA: Terry Boyd, 1991 | 13m | |||
5 | Pawn Crack
Climb up the crack on the right-hand side to a ledge at 6m height, then go left and up the crack. PA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1970 | 10m | |||
Pomonal Area Blazed Rock Imp Butress | |||||
9 | Impoverished
Climb up the chimney at the south end past a small roof, then head up the crack. PA: Bill Andrews, 1984 | 11m | |||
8 | Impecunious
Climb the crack on the front of the outcrop. PA: Bill Andrews, 1984 | 10m | |||
5 | ★ Impassioned
The steep juggy line 1m left of Impudent. PA: David Brereton & Matthew Thom, 1989 | 10m | |||
12 | ★ Impudent
The crack on the north end of the outcrop. PA: Bill Andrews, 1984 | 9m | |||
Pomonal Area Arch Wall | |||||
12 | Emigre
| 15m | |||
15 | A Way With the Fairies
| 9m | |||
16 | Kaffir
| 18m | |||
15 | Nadre
| 15m | |||
20 | No Rest For the Wicked
| 23m | |||
Town Cliffs Oven Wall | |||||
17 | A Bun in the Oven
Cairned. The black buttress which is undercut on its right side and with a smooth orange wall below an overlap; near the middle of the cliff. Step up right from easy line on left, and then up (easing significantly). PA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Maasakkers, 1993 | 25m | |||
Town Cliffs The Pyramid | |||||
10 | Irate Depositors
This is the loose, hollow, blocky line in the middle of the cliff. PA: Tim Burke & Stephen Hamilton, 1991 | 13m | |||
25 | ★ Cheops
Starts 2m right of Irate Depositors. Well worth doing. Climb the wall past a bolt, through an overhang and up the corner past a fixed wire. Continue up the flake and wall above past another bolt. PA: Stephen Hamilton, 1991 | 16m | |||
Town Cliffs Musbury Crags | |||||
21 | Space Cadets
Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height). PA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1991 | 10m | |||
16 | Breadknife Rib
About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up. PA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987 | 18m | |||
17 | Land Rights for Gay Whales
Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route. PA: Tim Burke & Chris Baxter, 1991 | 13m | |||
14 | Classic Corner
The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers. PA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987 | 20m | |||
12 | Face Dancers
Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête. PA: David Witham (solo), 1981 PAL: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983 | 27m | |||
15 | ★ Sliding Dog Sandwich
Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top. PA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Heather Phillips, 1984 | 24m | |||
12 | Cosy Corner
The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully. PA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983 | 17m | |||
16 | Cottees Conserve
Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully. PA: Julian Oldmeadow & John Murphy, 1992 | 12m | |||
14 | ★ White Crow
This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree. PA: Bill Andrews, Heather Phillips, Allan Hope & Ceri Law, 1984 | 24m | |||
15 | White Crow Superdirect Finish
This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb. PA: David Schirra & Chris Baxter, 1990 | 15m | |||
11 | Pointless
We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered. PA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984 | 17m | |||
14 | Norwegian Blue
Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16). PA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983 | 20m | |||
17 | Camping It Up
Short but committing layback. Scramble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above. PA: Chris Baxter & David Schirra, 1990 | 20m | |||
Town Cliffs Base Camp Buttress | |||||
16 | ★ Altitude Sickness
An attractive line with a dramatic finish which looks much harder than it is. The original write up gave the route as being 15m and only covered the top half of the climb. As there is no easy way of accessing the top half I have added a start. The route takes the right-facing, right-leaning corner in the upper half of the LH buttress. There is a gully in the middle of the LH cliff which leads up to this line. Scramble 6m up this to belay below the first steep rock. Climb cracks towards the LH side of the gully with an awkward exit to the foot of a R leading ramp. Up the ramp to the headwall. L and up to gain the corner then up this. PA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Maasakkers, 1993 | 26m | |||
17 | The Height of Stupidity
The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round. PA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 30 En 2016 | 22m | |||
12 | Camp 4
The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney. PA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 30 En 2016 | 22m | |||
17 | ★ Pulmonary Oedema
R of Camp 4 is a steep clean buttress with 2 good deep crack lines. Left crack. Above the difficulties step out L and up the short steep face. A couple of large cams around BD#4 size are useful. PA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Massakkers, 1993 | 20m | |||
15 | Berber Children
The RH crack. PA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Tony Massakkers, 1993 | 20m | |||
Town Cliffs Punter's Pinnacle | |||||
9 | Was It Worth It?
L arête of main slab, starting from boulder. PA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008 | 12m | |||
12 | Moment Of Truth
Start as for 'Rush'. Then left into 'Burden Of Proof'. PA: Grant, 21 Sep 2015 | 11m | |||
12 | ★ Burden of Proof
No chimneying required! Major L.facing chimney bounding R side of main slab. PA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008 | 15m | |||
19 | Chinese Whispers
Good crack. Up R from foot of BP to undercut crack in R wall of BP. Up this and the line above. PA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008 | 15m | |||
20 | Pick a Winner
Exciting climbing in an excellent position up the L arête of the pillar. Climb seam 1m R of CW and go up R to arête. Straight up this, R of CW all the way. PA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008 | 15m | |||
14 | Punt Road
Nice positions. From foot of big, R.facing corner on R side of pillar, go up and L to arête. Up cracks in this. PA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008 | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ Pay the Price
Dramatic finish. From foot of Punt Road, go up big, R.facing corner for 6 m. L in horizontal break to crack. Up, finishing steeply. PA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008 | 16m | |||
10 | The Home Straight
trad Major, R.facing corner bounding R side of the pillar. (Pay the Price starts up HS.) PA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008 | 15m | |||
17 | The Tote
Clean, smooth, R.leaning corner.crack on ‘back’ (E) side of Punters Pinnacle. Finish on R wall. PA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008 | 10m | |||
16 | The Sketchy Artist
PA: L Baxx, 17 Sep 2016 | 15m | |||
11 | Mr Prez
PA: L Baxx, 17 Sep 2016 | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ Mr Prez [Variant Finish]
PA: L Baxx, 17 Sep 2016 | 15m | |||
To delete
Delete | |||||
To delete 2
delete | |||||
To delete 3
delete | |||||
Town Cliffs Canberra Rocks | |||||
2 | What's On in Belconnen
There are 2 obvious deep lines on the cliff [you can see them from the carpark]. The left one. PA: Philip Armstrong, Alex Bamber & Peter Cody, 7 Ag 2016 | 9m | |||
12 | Nothing
Start 1.5m right of WOIB. Steep start then easier. PA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Kathy Matic, 27 Jun 2019 | 9m | |||
14 | Canberra Nightlife
Between the two main lines there is a crack with a steep start. PA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 7 Ag 2016 | 10m |