Routes as trad in Halls Gap Area

Landmark slanting offwidth approximately 5m from left end of cliff. Take large cams and and long slings. Go behind large chockstone and easily up and right to abseil tree above (or alternatively, carefully downclimb gully to climbers left). Was originally graded 19 in the guidebook and 22 (!) on theCrag, however appears to have been first climbed facing the opposite way. Having one's left side in the crack makes this a fairly moderate proposition.

Attractive crack below left end of roof at left end of E-facing section of cliff. Crack to bypass left end of roof, to lower off bolts.

Balancy face-climbing. Up short groove 1 m right of An Embarrassment of Riches. Step up right to R-facing flake. Up and left, then straight up to roof. Step left to top of steep section of ER and finish up AEOR.

Much like the local wildlife, this one’s a screamer (and an excellent reason to visit).

Start calmly up obvious diagonal on east face of buttress. Become daunted by steepness, enjoy a few absolute sinkers then make some noise for the pointy beak of the crack. Claw straight up crimps with less gear (large nut and small cams) and raise your crest triumphantly into easier and mossier ground.

Bomber gear for crux, take care of slab below. Tree anchor.

The first (left one) of three juggy cracks at right end of cliff. (First two don’t reach ground.) Boulder wall to foot of crack. Up this, then slightly right up tricky wall. Abseil bolts directly above. Pity whoever put these in and retroed the routes at the left hand end didn't add some bolts to the poorly protected finish of this and the routes to the right.

Up and left to foot of second crack, 2m right of Wailing Wall. Up this, then wall above on fiddly spaced pro.

Up third crack, 1m right of Palais de Melon, then up and right on wall to finish as for Sue’s Garden.

As with previous three routes, this ends with thought-provoking face-climbing. Up flake 2m right of Radio Active and opposite two grass-trees, then directly up wall.

Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge.

Landmark, left facing corner crack on left side of outcrop.

Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac.

THe first pitch is quite dramatic for the grade but the second is rubbish. Start: Initialled line at the LH end of the cliff, the initial is 8m up, at the first ledge [about 250m R of StEF]. This is the L one of a series of cliff splitting lines.

1. 37m (11) Easy wall to crack starting at 8m. Crack up to and around large roof to belay on chockstone.

2. 37m (10) Short wide crack at back L of ledge. Exit L and up on easy, dirty rock.

Looks a bit pointless. From 18m up 'Jagger' go R into finger crack. Up this for 5m to overhang. Step R, go over overhang then back L to finish up 'Jagger'

Start: Crack 10m R of 'Jagger'. Originally soloed by Phillip Stranger and graded 9. Some rotten rock and a large loose chockstone on P1.

1. 20m (15) Up crack and chimney to ledge above 2 chockstones. Head up and R to ledge below undercut chimney.

2. 25m (14) A desperate struggle to get into the chimney then up easily.

An old long forgotten classic. Good fun and a good line.

Start: 'Steep' corner 3m R of 'Rimbaud'.

1. 20m (16) Up to some exciting moves around first big overhang. Continue up corner which becomes steeper, wider [BD4 or large hex useful] and more strenous to final steep exit over bulge to good ledge.

2. 25m (14) Up undercut chimney on L as for 'Rimbaud' or straight over steep bulge above [about grade 15.]

Not bad.

Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.

1. 37m (20) Easily up to roof [possible to scramble up and belay here]. Through roof [crux] and up crack to shallow scoop. R and up chimney.

2. 25m (13) Up wide line as for Trog.

Looks bold and scary. 2a] R 2m from shallow scoop on 'Fiddler' then up and L 5m to easier ground. Up.

This is the L hand of 4 cliff splitting chimney lines seen clearly from Halls Gap. Supposedly once popular it is now rather dirty and neglected. Despite this the climbing is quite interesting, steep and varied. Start: 5m R of 'Fiddler', a chimney corner.

1. 37m (14) Awkward rounded crack to ledge at base of steep corner chimney. Up this over a couple of bulges to where it becomes a deep chimney below a steepening off width corner. Belay in back of chimney.

2. 25m (13) Up wide line easing towards the top.

Not bad old fashioned chimney and crack struggle, if you like that kind of thing.

Start: Major crack line 12m R of 'The Trog'. Seems to have been fairly recently initialled [2010]

1. 22m (15) Crack to ledge at 6m. Up awkward line to strenuous moves around prominent overhang. Up to belay on R wall.

2. 38m (12) Chimney easing past a few bulges.

Major initialled line 8m R of TA.

1. 20m (10) Start up chimney or crack 1m R. Continue up steepening line to ledge below overhanging offwidth corner.

2. 40m (11) Step out R to crack, up this to above overhang. Continue up main line to top.

Another Phillip Stranger solo first ascent.

A cool chimney which gives a fun lower grade adventure - good for a hot day. 5m R of PR.

1. 25m (9) Up the crack 5m R of PR to the chimney. Up this to belay on chockstones.

2. 20m (11) Up the chimney moving out towards the front where it narrows above the overhang. Up to belay above the chockstone.

3. 20m (4) Continue easily up the line.

Start: 35m R of Manolette. There is a prominent L leaning diagonal crack high up below capping ceiling.

1. 35m (22) Undercut start, then up and R. Up L around bulge to corner. Up this to DBB with FHs.

2. 30m (24) 'Diagonal' crack L under roof then up easily.

An attractive variation on The Force etc Up as for TFJUTF then continue up wall on R past 2 FH to belay as for TFJUTF.

Used to be considered a classic, but seems to have got a lot more lichenous over the years. Surprisingly steep. The first 2 pitches can be run together and there are abseil chains at the top of them.

Start: Initialled line 30m R of The Force etc.

1. 12m (18) Corner then R onto sloping ledge. Up crack and corner to sentry box then R to small ledge.

2. 13m (19) Climb the twin cracks to a chimney. Up this to chains.

3. 30m (12) Up chimney to blockage. Out R and up to large ledge. Crack through overhang and up.

Looks loose and daunting. Take big pro.

Start: 5m R of 'Nemesis'.

1. 30m (18) Corner crack with 2 overhangs. L above second overhang to top of P2 of 'Nemesis'.

2. 30m (17) 'Arete' on poor rock.

The awe inspiring crack thru' the orange roof with the big guano streaks beneathe it clearly visible from Halls Gap. Originally a fierce and intimidating aid climb on rotten rock, even more terrifying now it is free. Can be done as a mixed route at about 18 M4 for those who like exposed aid climbing.

Start: 3m R of 'Mocha'

1. 35m (25) Thin crack to rotten ramp. From a small alcove above a bolt climb steep and strenuous crack past scary block to another bolt. Travers 10m R on poor rock to large ledge.

2. 30m (26) L then up corner to roof [hanging belay taken here on first ascent]. Traverse L along break 2m below roof and around nose to hard mantle. Back R to rest below roof. Climb roof and up.

P2 takes the dirty mossy arete out R of BGs corner. P1 is filthy, hard and poorly protected.

Start: 8m R of BG. Initialled

1. 31m (17) Up to overhang at 5m. Hard unprotected moves R ward around this and up steep groove to terrace. Move R and up to the foot of the big corner as for BG.

2. 31m (17) Head out R from corner and up wall to meet overhang at its lip. Does not look like fun and is probably unrepeated.

3. 25m (-) Up easily

The 2nd pitch is a good sustained corner. Worth doing. Started originally as for 'Karen Alexander' but the first pitch of that climb is so mossy now that it is best avoided. The first pitch is just a way to get to the corner.

Start: 22m R of 'Dedication'. A big L facing corner leading to a roof.

1. 30m (15) Up crack 8m L of the initials KA. Follow this until the angle eases and it is possible to traverse R on a mossy ledge to an easy corner. Up this to the foot of the main steep corner.

2. 31m (17) Corner to roof, traverse R under this to ledge.

3. 25m (6) Up easily.

Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)

1. 15m (12) Up to diagonal roof.

2. 15m (20) Up diagonally L to past ledge to scoop. Abseil descent from here. I think we originally thought it might go all the way to the top.

Traverse right from 3rd bolt of Elephant's Slide, up slight ramp, up crack then up and left to finish at ES anchor

Has the right number of bolts, but they are not in the right places. I imagine this was bolted on lead. With a bit of a clean and bolt rationalisation could make a good route. 2m L pf PS. Unprotected moves up L to first bolt, thin moves up past another bolt to mossy ledge. Up past another bolt to a friable unprotected bulge with a bolt after the hard moves. Up to knobbly wall [#0.5 cam] and on to large ledge with DBB. [also possible to duck R to ES belay]

Unprotected at the hard parts, but some quite nice climbing. 24m L of PS at very L end of overlap at 3m. Over this and up slab past obvious knob [10m up, first pro] for 15m, then diagonally R to flakes. Up these until they run out in 10m. Now 3m up knobby wall, then 3m diagonally L up unprotected delicate wall. Up slab for 10m and little wall above.

Start: L leading diagonal 8m L of HoW. This is the lowest of 3 diagonals.

1. 25m (10) Up diagonal and follow it to cave. Up slab above line to cave.

2. 25m (15) Yellow crack above cave to terrace. R, then up wall. Descent involves scrambling as low as possible and finding something to abb off.

Follow tracks from Halls Gap; following the Venus Baths track. Just before Venus Baths, the track goes up stairs to left on the way to Splitters Falls. Follow track until near river - then over rocks to the other side. Theres a boulder feild over this: up right and around to top to the base of route.

1. 50m/3 - Starts low across river going up wall and weaving left before tending back right. Belay at boulders.

2. 50m/2 - Up over boulders up high past deep channels and belay on top of boulders up right.

3. 50m/2 - Follow major ridge tending right and up to before break

4. 50m/3 - Off to right from belay and up to large ledge.

5. 40m/2 - Up steep wall onto easy terrain - belay at large block

6. 60m/1 - Weaves on scrambles up low slabs to corner crack.

7. 35m/4 - Interesting corner and good gear. Up and over the left of this to bollard belays.

8. Over deep chasms and up far wall to left side of summit of Mackeys Peak.

Descent via scrambling back down towards pitch 7 but then left and down to right; following down slot to walking track. Track leads back to Halls Gap

Named due to the crevasse like features on the slabs, the wandering nature of the route and the atrocious conditions it was climbed in - wet and mossy.

Approach: From Halls gap take the wonderland track to the spotlight boulder. At the spotlight boulder bash through and up towards a prominent wall (potential for a direct start) and then head climbers right until you open up onto the slabs. From here break through the first overlap and the route begins.

From here pick your own adventure, going climbers left as you hit the 'crevasses' until you are near the north ridge itself. From here charge up the immaculate rock, jumping and stepping over where necessary. Near the top there is rounded en cheval section and then straight forward scrambling to the top.

A rope and a light rack may be necessary if wet, from the slabs starting it would be about 6 pitchs never harder than grade 4.

Scramble up to ledge at foot of distinct, right facing flake crack near right end of cliff. Up this to overhang, step left, up vague muggy line above.

2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top.

As for Yin but take the chimney on the R.

2mR of Gelati Crumble. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. 12.11.83

The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top.

5m R of Barabajagal. Start at a short wall with a couple of reachy moves. Up the ramp to the base of a bottomless chimney to the top

Start up Dodgem Delight. Step left at the bush at the top of the first wall and follow the corner above.

The first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top

The buttress left of Barabajagal with sparse protection

4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top.

2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks.

Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct.

2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards.

Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall.

2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack.

As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. 12.11.83

The black streak 3m L of Precarious is thin and unprotected. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge.

Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. An unprotected bouldery problem that could do with a bolt. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb).

1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. 25.4.81