Routes as trad in Halls Gap Area

The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier.

The short corner at the left end of the outcrop has an unexpectedly tricky finish.

Start as for Time Out. At the ledge move left into the hanging crack and up.

Take the blocky line 4m right of the Naughty Corner to a ledge on the arete. Up the thin crack to the top of the block.

The northern most line. A bouldery start up past a fixed hanger. Micro cams and 2 more fixed hangers.

2.7m R of O.T.N. Straight up the line past 2 fixed hangers with micro cams along the way. Finish R of the large boulder.

A nice climb. Start 1m R of H.A.V. From the highest point of the flake pull onto the wall and up veering slightly R past a fixed hanger. Finish up the headwall r of HAV's finish. Good micro's and wires.

Another nice climb. 1.3m R of I.M below the undercut ledge. Place some good micro's above the mantle before doing it. Straight up over the mantle passing good wires, more micro's and a fixed hanger.

Stays independent. 1.5m R of U.G. (immediately R of the undercut ledge). Straight up past 2 low bolts with Micros for the rest.

The best climb on this little cliff. Start 3.3m R of U.G. below 2 horizontal cracks that are just above head height. Pull up through these past a good medium cam and clip the first hanger. Straight up the wall past another hanger with micro's and wires found along the way. NB: Grade is dependent on your height. If you are taller than 5'7" subtract a grade or 2.

Start 2m R of M.H.P. below a "diving board' at head height which in turn is below a shallow scoop. Clip the first hanger and then pull humourously onto the diving board. Clip the second hanger and pull up into the scoop. From here straight up past good small wires and micro cams. A third hanger protects the top.

Takes the line following the distinctive right leading arch/overhang. Sustained and thin. The best outing on the cliff. Possibly originally aided sometime in the past.

1. 30m 19 Undercling up and out R [old peg runner]. Climb more easily up the corner above to the cave under the final arch.

2. 20m 10. Up and off R, or step L and follow diagonal up L.

RH Finish: Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft (alt) mid 1980s. LH Finish: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns. (alt) 13.3.89

The next line to the R. A steep layback start.

1. 25m 19. The line to the ledge with a tree.

2. 20m 9. Easy slabby wall.

The next line to the R. Dirty.

1. 25m 17. Up the line to where final thin moves lead to a bushy ledge and tree.

2. 20m Easy slabby wall to top.

The next line R is also very dirty. Good moves to start then easing. Curve R to finish at tree.

L leaning flake crack at RH end of cliff. From ledge walk off R or go up little corner above.

Below Boulder Rock is a short wall leading up to below overhangs. The crack up this wall then traverse around R to below Time Warp.

Takes the line with a steep thin start L of Time Warp. Looks much harder than 17 and unprotected.

The steep dogleg offwidth crack is quite a struggle. Take BD 3s and 4s.

1. 18m Straight up the crack, through bulges, then onto a small stance.

2. 7m Up easy rock to the top.

Easy access up the back of block. Large corner with bulges on easy terrain. Good for setting up anchors at top and for abseil/top rope access to cliff.

Good varied little climb. Crack 10m R of L end of cliff.

Start at the obvious holds and features on the steep wall 10m R of LA. Up to bulge near top then R below this to finish straight up.

Steep and bold face climbing. Pull on to the wall at the small cave 6m R of High Sally Tations and 3m L of R arête of face. Up and L past three breaks to finish as for HST. More logically start at the holds 4m R of High Sally etc then up and L as above.

Unexpectedly straightforward, this climb has uniquely featured holds. Pull up on to the undercut face 3m R of AW, on arête. Up and slightly R to ledge. Step L and climb L side of arête.

About 30m R of the LH end of cliff is a major broken corner. Up steep L leaning crack 10m R of this [rotten rock]. At top of crack traverse 3m L to small corner, up this.

Up to and up steep R.facing flake starting 1m R of Leif. Finish straight up.

Undercut, gung-ho start from beside old fairy martins’ nests (landmark) 10m R of DD, then face above, moving very slightly R. The large starting holds are decidedly suspect.

Thin crack with R leading flake heading out of it. Climb the thin crack.

The R leading flake starting as for BTIC.

Start just R of TB. Pull over bulge then climb vague rib between BTIC and TB.

Sustained and fingery face-climbing up the pair of L-leaning seams 5 m R of the major, broken corner which, in turn, is 5 m R of Travel Bug. Pronounced bulge at 5 m.

Near RH end of ledge a diagonal line leads up R under overlaps. Follow this to vertical crack [TT]. Cont. up R in thin diagonal to vertical corner, finish up this.

3m R of NVP. Up to and up short vertical crack, turn rooflet above and cont up pimply seam.

Start at steep flakes round the arête and 12m R of Throwing in the Towel (2m R of eucalypt), then L up ramp. One of the better routes of the cliff, quite varied and interesting.

Starts 2m left of the “Dunny Brush of Doom”. Direct up wall to tight end of the mossy ledge at around 5m. Move up steepening wall around 2m left of the of DBoDs 1st bolt. Trad gear up 1m left of past DBoDs 2nd bolt, meeting DBoD at its 3rd bolt. Can place trad in high flake and traverse left to anchor as for DBoD. Lower off 2 rings.

10m right of Mother's Day is a short left facing corner crack. Jam corner to big ledge. Move right a few metres. Pull up the blank slab into the corner (a hard move for short people). Follow the corner system up right to a good ledge with lower offs.

Starts 5m right of “Out of Lockdown” corner. Up the cleaner streak in the moss to ledge at around 5m. Can belay here or continue up in one pitch. Up face right of “Out of Lockdown” and finishing at the anchor. DBB

Start as for Bella and climb to 2nd bolt, then delicately left across hanging slab and up wall on good natural pro, veering R slightly towards the top.

The L hand of the bolted lines on the main wall. A hard start past a fixed hanger then up past 2 U-Bolts and some natural pro (recommended) to a chain abseil anchor on the L.

20m right of Test Run are a couple of faces. The right hand one has a slab leading up to a shallow left facing corner. Up the face and the corner to a hard, steep exit.

Good sustained climbing. A bit runout, take small gear. Climb diagonal finger crack above block at foot of upper L end of cliff. Now boldly up and diagonally R

Steep and exciting climbing on positive holds. Start 3m down and R of DH. Climb steep wall then finish up the blunt arête above between DH and CR.

Tricky start to gain the main line of the cliff. Up to small overhang 2m R of HP, R to line, then up and L in line.

Links together possibly the cleanest rock on the cliff. Starts as for CRC at reachy R leading overlap. R into line, up, then take tricky R leading line across wall for 5m. Then straight up wall, finishing up blunt arete.

Major diagonal line immediately L of small cave at foot of face 20m R of CC. Balancy start then seam to bulge. Continue up L leaning line to exit gully.

Major diagonal line starting 5m R of GB. Committing unprotected start up seam then sustained diagonal line to join Sparks Victoria at its large tree. A better protected option is to start up Sparks Vic then step L into BB at 4m. Probably grade 16 done this way.

Major diagonal line finishing above large tree. Up crack 3m R of BB and immediately L of recessed yellow wall at R end of cliff. Line to tree. Up

Sustained corner at RH end of face. Exit R at top to avoid loose block.

At the LH end of the Northern Cliff, 2.5m R of a blocky arête. Follow short corners and cracks up and R to a final steep crack/flake. Up this to top.

5m R of Samosa, a short L facing corner crack starting above a bulge. Up to and up the corner. The bulge below the corner has seen some rockfall recently making the route unstable and best avoided.

4m R of NWF. Up the RH of the twin chimneys. Be careful of loose blocks.

Just R of Papadum. Up shallow corner on the R wall of the RH chimney exiting R into steep seam at the top.

3m R of Papadum chimney is a shallow L facing groove. Up to and up groove. Finish up wall past FH.

1m R of Onion Bahji a narrow buttress protrudes from the cliff. Up the L side of the buttress, finishing with nice climbing up the thin cracks in the headwall directly above.

A good introductory jam crack. Down and R 6m from Emu Kebab. A clean deep hand crack up a block.

Directly behind RP or uphill 6m from Emu Kebab. Up and L to short wide crack. Up [BD#4 useful]

Start as for Kukri. A line leading to a deep hand jam crack in a shallow R facing groove. Approach upper crack from the L to avoid large possibly detached blocks. Awkward move to get into jam crack.

The easy option. Along the top of the cliff between the Northern Cliff and the descent gully to the Main Cliff is an isolated block. Up to and up the easy chimney on the Northern face.

3m R of Set Menu. Up the bulging crack on the front [West face] of this block

This is the LH line on the narrow easy angled buttress leading to a steeper headwall. Up the L side of the buttress and finish up the LH crack.

Up 1m R of Lassi to finish up the RH crack.

Around R of MC. 1m R of the arête are some protruding holds. Up holds and slightly R to finish up middle of headwall. Quite good short route.

5m R of Naga Hills. A flake crack leading to an obvious deep jam crack in the upper half.

The line 3m R of Mysore

3m R of Lahore. Up to and up short L leading groove

Start as for SR then head up and R into next groove and up this.

From the saddle where the cairn is head around the L end of the gully cliffs and follow the cliff line L about 15m to a short orange corner with a striking arête to its L. Up the corner to a large ledge. Finish up short steep crack.

From 3m L of Bellview Heights and on the same face head up to and up a series of cracks and flakes. Varied and fun.

From the bottom of the descent walk R 10m to below the first major buttress. A steep left-facing groove left of orange overhangs. Some suspect holds above crux bulge. Finish up wall.

5m R of BH. Easily up onto detached flakes. Clip FH and step R. Up and L to groove and up this past FH. Finish up wall to R of flake [wires and small cams].

R of the Bellview Heights buttress is a bay with a corner crack on each side. The LH corner crack is wide and strenuous.

The RH corner crack is surprisingly pleasant.

Undercut crack on front of buttress 5m R of CofT. Desperate start leads to good upper wall. A good grade 17 variant is to start around the R arête and climb out L easily onto ledge then finish up top wall.

Up to and up the steep crack around the R arête from Northern Exposure. Finish up L arête at top.

The dirty corner just R of GS

2m L of the nice crack of Mughlay is a deep chimney. Up this.

8m R of Palak Paneer and 2m R of the chimney crack of Delhi Belly is a lovely clean crack. Up this and short wall above.

2m R of Mughlay, a couple of nice face moves past 2FH. 18/5/2015

Line 1m R of Coat of Arms. Small cams protect the start.

11m R of Mughlay a short steep crack with a block 1m to its R. Crack [use block] to a tricky exit. BD#4 useful.

Start as for JLW but head R up blocks to short crack. Up this.

Right of Lentils and Rice is a block with a passage behind it. The front face of this block has an obvious crack/seam up it. 1 FH near top. Packs a lot of fun into a small package.

The LH cliff has a chimney crack at its LH end. Up to an up chimney. Suspect block on L edge near top.

8m R of the Kofta chimney an easy angled crack leads to an interesting finish. A well protected easy route, good for leading practice. Descend to the L along the summit and down a gully behind Kofta.

2m R of, Cybele an awkward lower section leads to easy ground.

5m R of Rhea and just R of the chimney/gully separating the LH and RH faces. From the R foot of the gully, chimney up between a block and the cliff. Climb the seam near the L arête of the block [small wires]

2.5m R of Naan is a short L facing corner system leading up to short smooth orange face with 2 thin seams in it. Up corners to ledge. Step out L and up RH seam. RPs useful.

Short steep R facing corner 6m R of TM. Up corner and steep arête above avoiding large questionable blocks to left. Not recommended.

Just around the arête L of Reservoir Dogs, a short steep crack.

1. 10m 20 Crack to ledge

2. 9m 14 Move L and up orange corner moving L when it blanks out.

Marginal climbing up the pencil thin crack line left of TPS and 2mt rt of the left end of the main cliff face.

Left facing corner crack left of Bollocks. Up to below hanging roofs, step left and up the left side of the hanging buttress. There is also a more direct start 1mt to the left.

the central crack/chimney marked with a "B".

Starts immediately rt of Bollocks. Up and rt through bulge then diagonal crackup and rt to vertical line.

Small rt facing corner rt of Bollocks and left of TLIE. Up corner step left and up line above to overlap. finish up final section of Rib Tickler.

Left facing corner R of LP#9 Up to stance below rt end of rooflet. Up and left through this to continue up prominent left facing flakes and face to top.

50mts above and to the left of the main cliff. The undercut crack on the north side of a small buttress.

There are six small routes above and to the right of the main cliff. Access is from the top of the main cliff.

This is the second of four prominent lines and is just rt of an overhang.