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Budja Budja

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 14

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

14

Seasonality

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Description

A small orange outcrop, can be a pleasant afternoon in the not too hot weather. There are some more small climbs on outcrops above this area if you can find them.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

From the end of Tandarra Rd in Halls Gap cross the bridge and follow the track L towards Boronia Peak. This track joins a 4wd track continue L along this. After 5-10 mins you will reach the junction of the vehicle track and the Boronia Peak walking track [signposted], head South East [up and R] through open bush for around 200 mts untill you meet an apron of rock. Follow this to the right then up to the next tier above and to the base of a small wall. The track has some cairns.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Just around the arête L of Reservoir Dogs, a short steep crack.

  1. 10m 20 Crack to ledge

  2. 9m 14 Move L and up orange corner moving L when it blanks out.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 2 Nov 2014

Marginal climbing up the pencil thin crack line left of TPS and 2mt rt of the left end of the main cliff face.

FA: Stephen hamilton & David Karia., 1993

Left facing corner crack left of Bollocks. Up to below hanging roofs, step left and up the left side of the hanging buttress. There is also a more direct start 1mt to the left.

FA: David Karia & Stephen Hamilton., 1993

the central crack/chimney marked with a "B".

FA: FRA Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, George Cooper, Zoe Foulser, Kenji Takasaki & Wendy Robertson., 2003

Starts immediately rt of Bollocks. Up and rt through bulge then diagonal crackup and rt to vertical line.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox., 2002

Small rt facing corner rt of Bollocks and left of TLIE. Up corner step left and up line above to overlap. finish up final section of Rib Tickler.

FA: Chris Baxter & Jen Stone., 2003

Left facing corner R of LP#9 Up to stance below rt end of rooflet. Up and left through this to continue up prominent left facing flakes and face to top.

FA: Stephen hamilton & David Karla., 1993

50mts above and to the left of the main cliff. The undercut crack on the north side of a small buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter, George Cooper, Stephen Hamilton, Kenji Takasaki, Kaitlyn Maher & Wayne Maher, 2003

There are six small routes above and to the right of the main cliff. Access is from the top of the main cliff.

This is the second of four prominent lines and is just rt of an overhang.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2002

Third crack (thin hands). Pity it's not longer!

FA: Phillip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox., 2002

This is the fourth crack on this wall.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong., 2002

Ledges and ramp tending up rt from SIJ then up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox., 2002

Body crack 30mts rt of HYD and on the next band of rock up the hill.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2002

At the rt end of the face with SYT. Use the tree to start the undercut face. Flake cracks and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2002

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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