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Callan Point

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Fotos: 12
  • Ascensiones: 428
  • Aka: The Margin Crag
18

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

A small but worthwhile outcrop located at the tip of Callan Point that holds some of the best bouldering in the area. The grassy landing and full afternoon sun makes the small overhang an excellent place to enjoy a couple of hours outdoors

The crag gets sun from late morning til sunset and is protected from the wind on the bay. Feel free to tape your fingers up before attacking the problems as the rock's rough and can take chunks out of your fingers if you're not careful!

Be aware of glass laying around.

There is a hold on the right of the end of sky rockets almost broken off. Please don’t climb the end of sky rockets, alternatively try to skip the hold. A reminder after rain water can remain in rock for 2/3 days depending on rain fall.

Whatever you do don't let this deter you from this crag, the problems are well worth the effort!

Climbs are described from left to right facing the boulder.

Restricciones heredado de New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Acceso

The crag is best approached my waterfront drive. Be aware of plenty of pedestrians when backing out. Park along the waterfront & head out right, between a little arch of trees & there you have it!

Historia

Gráfico cronológico de las vías

A young climbing princess from the Czech Republic going by the name of Radka was found by the developer at the crag one sunny summer afternoon. With chalk on her hands, a smile on her face and her glass climbing shoes on, young Radka was enjoying what the crag had on offer. The pumped Czech princess mentioned that the crag was like a wonderful and mystical margin. The developer didn't understand what she meant, and only partially because of her accent. As the Czech princess chalked up and bouldered on she continued her fairy tale by saying there was a well defined boarder, in her magical eyes, between the water and the rock. After standing there scratching his head in wonder and planting some beans he just bought from a man on the side of the road, the developer decided that an AKA had been born for Callan Point. And just like all good Czech fairy tales, everybody chalked up, climbed on and lived happily ever after. The End.

Crag developed by Brendon Flanagan in 2012 as a lead up to the great bouldering boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía

Start low on the arête with your left and right hand in the obvious pockets. Make your way up the arête and exit to the right.

Equip: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

PA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

Start as for Did It, follow lip right, finishing as for Sky Rockets.

PA: dwebster, Feb 2018

Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Traverse left and finish by completing Did It. Extremely pumpy!

Equip: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

PA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

Sit start match on good roof undercling, move up and topout as for Exit Stage Left.

PA: James Wagner, Sep 2021

Start as for Exit Stage Left. Move left, but without using the large ledge. Top out around the corner, still not using the ledge.

Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Make your way up to the second tier with a dyno and top out on the third tier to be king of the world.

Equip: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

PA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

A Sassy problem working the nose

Sit start at common spot under left side of the overhang.

Move up to the dominant ledge and then power up the rounded arete directly above you.

Once your hands hit the top, top out via the right side of the arete.

PA: Ranger Dave Archer, 29 Jul 2014

Start at the lowest point on the the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the right. Finish by dynoing to the reachy slopper at the top.

Equip: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

PA: Ranger Dave Archer, 31 Jul 2014

Start on jug in middle of the cave and head straight out.

Use only slopers between 'In Loving Memory of Wilma' and 'Afternoon Delight' on the headwall.

PA: Martin Timperley, 17 Ag 2021

Sit Start in the right section of the overhang with both hands on a ledge around head high when you enter.

After placing your feet on the rock in front use the assortment of holds in the roof to head out of cave, slightly to the right.

Using the sharp feature about 2m off the ground top out

PA: Ranger Dave Archer, 29 Jul 2014

Another loose hold has been found on this popular problem. Please refrain from working it until the second hold has been repaired.

A super fun sustained roof lined with good holds

Sit start at the same common area at the left of the overhang. Pull on and follow the line of holds out to the right most part. At the solid letter box stay right to top out on the right most part of the arete

Hold towards end of the climb is flexing a lot without much pressure. Welcome to work the first half of the climb or try skip the hold but please avoid till potentially fixed. A reminder to let rock dry for around 2-3 days as moisture can retain in the rock.

A good pump with a rewarding finish

Equip: Ranger Dave Archer, 31 Jul 2014

PA: Ranger Dave Archer, 31 Jul 2014

Start the same as Afternoon Delight and end with Sky Rockets

PA: Gideon, 30 Ag 2021

Equip: Anthony Zammit, 30 Ag 2021

Start as for Did it the longer way continuing to opening of cave. Down climb Exit Stage Left then move through low rails at the back of the cave and finish as for Sky Rockets

PA: James Wagner, Sep 2021

Same start as per Skyrockets, goes through the roof on the lower rail to the letterbox hold, then out left using the holds on the face all the way across to finish up Did it!

PA: Tim Osborne, Nov 2019

Start the same as Sky Rockets. Traverse towards the right. When you reach the letter box hold on the nose topout using the slight ledge on the left and a small crimper straight above. Stay clear of the V3 - Afternoon delight on your left.

PA: Niko Eltarenko, 18 Mar 2015

Awesome roof moves finished with a demanding top out - enough so to deserve its own problem

Sit start same as Sky Rockets, follow the roof holds but at dominant letter box head straight up using the rounded arete

All face holds to the right and left of the letter box are out

Equip: Ranger Dave Archer, 31 Jul 2014

PA: dwebster, Feb 2018

A quick, easy climb on the boulder to the left of Did It. Start with your left and right hands on either side of the arete, make your way up and top out on the flat ledge. Like a posh wank, it isn't that difficult, but fun for practice.

Place preferred part of one foot on a small ledge high in the middle of the boulder. Execute a one leg stand-up, then a second to the top. No resting hands, arms or other body parts against the rock!

PA: Graham Dowden, 19 En 2017

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