Vías en The Ramparts

So bold that it scared Warwick Baird. Says it all.

see the CCSA Moonarie update PDF

Abseil Chains now in place .

The logical and sustained linkage of Cross Purpose start into Space Madness. A brilliant pitch of varied climbing.

The first attempt was stopped by the roof above the above the 3rd pitch and it took 25 years to complete the route to the top via the easier variant described. Note there are two bolts to protect the direct line through the roof after pitch 3 which will probably go at something 28 or more. The first three pitches were Duncan’s very first climb at Moonarie. Rap off after the first pitch if you want fun...continue up the latter pitches if you want pants filling adventure.

Pitch 1 (24) 25m. Climb Space Madness as described in the guide to belay at the ledge on the arete near the massive horn (and chains)...

Pitch 2 (19) 20m. Climb the weakness on the front face of the buttress just to the left of the arete to belay at a ledge on the arete level with the choss band.

Pitch 3 (24) 15m. From the ledge locate the bolt in the middle of the choss band in the centre of the front of the buttress. Take the easiest line to traverse out to the bolt on terrifyingly loose rock. At the bolt (it is 12mm and 6 inches so good) climb straight up to a scary mantle onto the ledge under the main roof. Trying to find any holds that don’t crumble in your hands for the mantle is the crux for this pitch. Bolt belay at the back of the ledge. It is VERY important to bring a rope protector or a piece of carpet to protect the sharp edge when you bring up the second. We left a piece there in 1995 but couldn’t find it when we went back in 2020.

Pitch 4 (10) 8m. Shuffle out the left side of the ledge to belay on Orion.

Pitch 5 (19) 45m. From the ledge climb the face on the right passing a bolt to a large hand rail horizontal. Take the horizontal with undercut feet to traverse all the way out to the arete, turning onto the mossy face on the front of the buttress. Continue up the middle of the face on mostly easy, mossy territory, passing one tough section through a v-slot to belay at the top.

Stuart Williams, Bob Knott, Duncan Graham. 1995 and Easter 2021

see the Moonarie guidebooks

Spartacus pitch 1 - Tourmaline - Perhaps pitches 4 and 5.

up the outside of the chockstones on pitch 2

With extenders and/or double ropes you might be able to do a monster 55m link of Poodle Lust into this route, for six stars worth of grade 24 climbing.

With extenders and/or double ropes you might be able to do a monster 55m link of this route into Honour Among Thieves, for six stars worth of grade 24 climbing.

Arete left of Miles from Nowhere. 13 bolts and rap anchors. take a cam or medium wires to get to first bolt.

The true FA reckons its a laugh that the FA details merely reflect who wrote the guidebook.

An outstanding pitch filled with variety. Start up the steep crack then follow the rightwards trending line through the radical crack, up to a bolt then onto the magical headwall. A 70m rope gets you to the ledge with some faff.

Rap chains on top of pitch 3. 60m rap should get you to the ground.

The quintessential moonarie classic and an absolute must do! Incredible, sustained and engaging climbing on perfect stone. Start through roof then traverse left past a fixed pin, take a deep breath and begin questing up the proud arete for what feels like an eternity. Double ropes essential.

Incredible and sustained climbing in an outrageous position and surely one of the best routes at the grade anywhere! The bolted line to the left of Fingernickin. Up the corner to a bolt then up past another bolt to the cam break, traversing leftwards to a hands free stance. Take a deep breath and quest up the magical arete past 5 bolts to a loweroff. A 70m rope will get you to the ground with stretch but make sure to tie a knot!

Climbs the arete forming the right hand side of the Locomotive corner high in the Great Chimney. Could possibly be done in a long single pitch from the ground with a 60m rope.

Pitch 1 (10) 10m. As for Great Chimney LHV as described in guide.

Pitch 2 (22) 50m. Up the corner above to a bolt on the LH wall at about the 8m mark. Traverse spectacularly out the hand rail to the arete, stepping up one move when you pass Fingernickin. Directly and delicately up the arete passing about 6/7 bolts to a final crimpy crank to gain chains on a ledge (go on RH side of arete for this final move). A 50m abseil just gets to the ground. Don’t think you can get away with using a 80m rope - it will not reach. Get to the ground via two raps and the Goblin Mischief chains if you can’t do a 50m rap.

Stuart Williams, Duncan Graham, Bob Knott Easter 2021

Everyone Dies Alone