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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
24 | Triple 0
| 55m | |||
25 | Insect Fear
| 55m | |||
22 | ★★★ Expiry Date
| 55m | |||
24 | ★★ Curving Wall
| 80m | |||
26 | Barren of Emotion
So bold that it scared Warwick Baird. Says it all. | 45m | |||
24 | ★ Grand Larceny
| 70m | |||
21 | ★★ Orion
| 110m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Green Blooded Rastafarian
see the CCSA Moonarie update PDF | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Whirlybird
| 22m | |||
18 | ★ Shadowboxer
| 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Remnant
| 120m | |||
25 | ★★ Cross Purpose
Abseil Chains now in place . | 25m | |||
25 | ★★★ Cross Madness
The logical and sustained linkage of Cross Purpose start into Space Madness. A brilliant pitch of varied climbing. | 35m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★★ Nemesis
| 130m | |||
23 | Nemesis Variant Finish
| 49m | |||
24 | ★★ Space Madness
| 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Space Madness (full route)
The first attempt was stopped by the roof above the above the 3rd pitch and it took 25 years to complete the route to the top via the easier variant described. Note there are two bolts to protect the direct line through the roof after pitch 3 which will probably go at something 28 or more. The first three pitches were Duncan’s very first climb at Moonarie. Rap off after the first pitch if you want fun...continue up the latter pitches if you want pants filling adventure. Pitch 1 (24) 25m. Climb Space Madness as described in the guide to belay at the ledge on the arete near the massive horn (and chains)... Pitch 2 (19) 20m. Climb the weakness on the front face of the buttress just to the left of the arete to belay at a ledge on the arete level with the choss band. Pitch 3 (24) 15m. From the ledge locate the bolt in the middle of the choss band in the centre of the front of the buttress. Take the easiest line to traverse out to the bolt on terrifyingly loose rock. At the bolt (it is 12mm and 6 inches so good) climb straight up to a scary mantle onto the ledge under the main roof. Trying to find any holds that don’t crumble in your hands for the mantle is the crux for this pitch. Bolt belay at the back of the ledge. It is VERY important to bring a rope protector or a piece of carpet to protect the sharp edge when you bring up the second. We left a piece there in 1995 but couldn’t find it when we went back in 2020. Pitch 4 (10) 8m. Shuffle out the left side of the ledge to belay on Orion. Pitch 5 (19) 45m. From the ledge climb the face on the right passing a bolt to a large hand rail horizontal. Take the horizontal with undercut feet to traverse all the way out to the arete, turning onto the mossy face on the front of the buttress. Continue up the middle of the face on mostly easy, mossy territory, passing one tough section through a v-slot to belay at the top. Stuart Williams, Bob Knott, Duncan Graham. 1995 and Easter 2021 FA: Stuart Williams, Bob Knott & Duncan Graham | 120m, 5, 4 | |||
20 | Neophyte
| 55m | |||
13 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply
| 120m | |||
23 | Kunua
| 20m | |||
22 | Repertoire
| 30m | |||
19 | ★★ Perhaps
| 100m | |||
18 | Perhaps Variant
| 35m | |||
19 | Point Blank
| 35m | |||
17 | ★★ Spartacus
| 85m | |||
18 | ★★ Tourmaline
see the Moonarie guidebooks | 30m | |||
19 | ★★ Spartacus Variant #2
Spartacus pitch 1 - Tourmaline - Perhaps pitches 4 and 5. FA: unknown | 100m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Dwarfism
FA: Rob Baker & James Falconer | 50m | |||
20 | ★★ Sweeping Statement Pitch 1
| 20m | |||
24 | ★★★ Sweeping Statement
| 45m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★★ Jesus Loves Me, The Poofter
| 100m | |||
27 | Jesus Loves Me, The Poofter Direct Start
| 20m | |||
13 | Black Man's Reach
| 40m | |||
13 | ★★ Kneedeep
| 110m | |||
15 | ★ Kneedeep Variant
up the outside of the chockstones on pitch 2 | 100m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★★ Honour Among Thieves
With extenders and/or double ropes you might be able to do a monster 55m link of Poodle Lust into this route, for six stars worth of grade 24 climbing. | 30m, 3 | |||
20 | Balancing Bunnies
| 110m | |||
24 | Poodle Lust
With extenders and/or double ropes you might be able to do a monster 55m link of this route into Honour Among Thieves, for six stars worth of grade 24 climbing. | 24m | |||
25 | ★ Smooch with a Pooch
| 25m, 2 | |||
26 | Endaisle Man
| 45m | |||
25 | ★★★ Know Your Enemy
FA: Rob Baker & Luke geelen | 50m | |||
19 | ★ Duke
| 100m | |||
26 | Unamed
| ||||
24 | Ubermaus
| 45m | |||
26 | ★★★ Lactic Man
FA: Rob Baker | 30m | |||
19 | ★★ Stranger in a Strange Land
| 100m | |||
17 | Falling Monkeys
| 100m | |||
20 | Jezebel Spirit
| ||||
19 | ★ Mystery Elephant Ride
| 100m | |||
20 | ★ Toblerone
FA: Julian Devery & Ronnie Sammut | 40m | |||
17 | Jumbo's Last Stand
| 95m | |||
17 | ★★ Jumbo's Variant finish
| 30m | |||
21 | ★★ The Good Life
Arete left of Miles from Nowhere. 13 bolts and rap anchors. take a cam or medium wires to get to first bolt. FA: Rob Baker & Jac Bernardi, 2010 | 40m, 13 | |||
14 | Miles from Nowhere LHF
| ||||
18 | ★★★ Miles from Nowhere
| 100m | |||
23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch
The true FA reckons its a laugh that the FA details merely reflect who wrote the guidebook. FA: "Stuart Williams & Jared McCulloch", 1992 | 45m, 1 | |||
27 | Kick Start - Get Your Ass into Gear
| 15m | |||
22 | Phoenix
| 110m | |||
24 | Live and Let Di
| 100m | |||
26 | ★★★ Ape and Away
An outstanding pitch filled with variety. Start up the steep crack then follow the rightwards trending line through the radical crack, up to a bolt then onto the magical headwall. A 70m rope gets you to the ledge with some faff. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 40m | |||
25 | ★★★ Endless Love
| 35m | |||
18 | ★ Time Out
| 50m | |||
12 | ★★★ Nervine
Rap chains on top of pitch 3. 60m rap should get you to the ground. | 120m, 5 | |||
13 | Nervine Variant Finish
| 30m | |||
19 | Every Fuckin' Day, Brother
| 100m | |||
28 | ★★★ The Womb Waltz
| 35m | |||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief
The quintessential moonarie classic and an absolute must do! Incredible, sustained and engaging climbing on perfect stone. Start through roof then traverse left past a fixed pin, take a deep breath and begin questing up the proud arete for what feels like an eternity. Double ropes essential. | 50m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief DS
| ||||
25 | ★★★ Durban Poison
Incredible and sustained climbing in an outrageous position and surely one of the best routes at the grade anywhere! The bolted line to the left of Fingernickin. Up the corner to a bolt then up past another bolt to the cam break, traversing leftwards to a hands free stance. Take a deep breath and quest up the magical arete past 5 bolts to a loweroff. A 70m rope will get you to the ground with stretch but make sure to tie a knot! FA: Stuart Williams, 1995 | 45m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★★ Fingernickin'
| 100m | |||
24 | ★★★ Fingernickin' 1st pitch
| 30m | |||
19 | Loco-Motive
| 130m | |||
25 | Loco-Motive Direct Start
| 25m | |||
22 | ★ #7 Leg
Climbs the arete forming the right hand side of the Locomotive corner high in the Great Chimney. Could possibly be done in a long single pitch from the ground with a 60m rope. Pitch 1 (10) 10m. As for Great Chimney LHV as described in guide. Pitch 2 (22) 50m. Up the corner above to a bolt on the LH wall at about the 8m mark. Traverse spectacularly out the hand rail to the arete, stepping up one move when you pass Fingernickin. Directly and delicately up the arete passing about 6/7 bolts to a final crimpy crank to gain chains on a ledge (go on RH side of arete for this final move). A 50m abseil just gets to the ground. Don’t think you can get away with using a 80m rope - it will not reach. Get to the ground via two raps and the Goblin Mischief chains if you can’t do a 50m rap. Stuart Williams, Duncan Graham, Bob Knott Easter 2021 FA: Stuart Williams, Duncan Graham & Bob Knott | 60m, 2, 7 | |||
13 | Great Chimney Left Variant
| 120m | |||
14 | ★★ Shangri-La
| 110m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★★ Unreal P1
FA: Gareth & Doug, 2004 | 27m | |||
26 | ★★★ Unreal P2
FA: Douglas & Gareth, 2004 | 27m | |||
20 | Wild Oscar
| 100m | |||
21 | ★★ Reality Factor
| 54m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ Trouble and Strife
| 50m | |||
26 | ★★★ Everyone Dies Alone
Everyone Dies Alone FA: Stuart Williams | 50m | |||
25 | ★★★ Buzzard Arete
| 50m | |||
25 | ★★★ Buzzard Arete Extension
| 80m | |||
26 | ★★ Buzzard Variant
| 30m |
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