Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Royal National Park Cerrado Rockford | |||||
17 - 19 | The Bulge
The access from top deck to top cave, More like a problem than a route. but a good one. 1 move. It's mainly to access other routes. PA: LW | 4m | |||
17 | ★ Southern Exposure
Climb The Bulge from ledge above Crime is Bolting then walk right along ledge and up to double bolt belay on right side of cave. Climb the very exposed right side of top cave on mega jugs. Airy and Rad! PA: GS & CT | 10m | |||
South West Kentlyn Keith Longhurst Reserve Kentlyn Krag East Side of Descent Gully | |||||
17 | I Wish I Was a 70s Climber
Slabby corner crack leads to rooflet. Swing out right and up jugs to spectacular finish up dead leaves and tree branches. Belay off tree 10m further up the rocky hillside. All trad. Not all rad. PA: Neil Montgomery Monteith & Marek, 26 Jun 2014 | 13m | |||
South West St Helen's Park Cave | |||||
V0+ | Scarface
Sit start with left hand on low pinch/edge and right hand in side-pull crack. Climb up using the flake crack only and finish at the second break. PA: Phillip Booth, 12 Dic 2021 | 5m | |||
South West The Woolwash Track-side Wall | |||||
17 | Aussie Pride
Start as for SATR. Mantle onto the slab and move R follow the R hand line up the wall. PA: Marek Brock-Tasler & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 10m, 4 | |||
South West Bourbon Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Jack Daniels
Best place to warm up. Tricky mantle to start then up via blobs and horizontal jugs to anchors under rooflet. Take care with the big undercling at the 2nd bolt (it looks like it's been taken care of). PA: Jeff Crass & Neil Monteith, 30 En 2015 | 10m, 4 | |||
South West GFC Angry Ant Area | |||||
17 | ★ Overly Optimistic
Lots of fun, Nothing too hard. Just make sure your belayer doesn't stand in the ants nest. 2m right of Bolt It And They Will Come. PA: Viona Young, Wade Stewart & Jason Lammers, 14 Dic 2014 | 12m, 7 | |||
South West GFC Descent Gully Cave | |||||
17 | The Chicken Or The Egg
Corner climb to the left of Forgotten Eggs. Stem up the boulder until you can mantle over, then climb up the inviting crack corner. Moving from the boulder to the corner is what gives the climb the grade so take care here. A punchy move followeed by easy climbing to the top. PA: Mel Liss, Abr 2023 | 8m, 3 | |||
South West The Hide Away Grey Slab | |||||
17 | ★ Malice a Forethought
The right hand route off the ledge. Up past 2 bolts onto the slab, traverse R along the break, up the small corner to the bulge and anchors. PAL: Matt Brooks, 2014 | 12m, 6 | |||
Colo River Mandalay Cliff | |||||
17 | ★ Lanie Wouldn't
Nice slab climb with some thought provoking moves, Starts 2m left of Twisted Roots. Straight up wall into small corner, over ledge (Twisted Roots traverses here) and up to lower off. Rebolted on rings. Watch rope length. | 27m, 9 | |||
Colo River Cracks Corner | |||||
17 | SSLT
3m right of C. Marked (very faintly). Attractive blunt arete with 4 BRs (2nd and 3rd look dodgy). Tree belay. | 12m, 4 | |||
Colo River Slab City | |||||
17 | ★ Q
2m right of P. Over small overlap at half height (crux). 4 BRs. | 15m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ L
15m right of K (5m right of right hand edge of cave). 4 rusty BRs up slab and steeper headwall. | 15m, 4 | |||
Inner West Earlwood | |||||
17 | ★ Who Dunnit?
Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs. | 8m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Who Dunnit Variant
Warning: the first bolt has been chopped. Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness. Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below. | 9m | |||
Inner West Balmain White Horse Point Routes | |||||
17 | B
Up the next bit of solid rock right of A (facing cliff) Top out is crux | 8m | |||
Inner West Glebe Thin Wall | |||||
17 | Sandy Insanity
The Carrot Bolts are all rusted and the ring bolts are half broken, Do Not Climb! Even with Trad, but then again if your leading, you should be able to work that out anyway. | 8m, 3 | |||
Inner West Pyrmont Pyrmont Wall Giba Wall | |||||
17 | Indian Root
Starting off either side of the arete, follow the corner to the top. A little sandy due to the lack of traffic but for what it's worth it's quite a good climb. PA: Giles Yates, 1998 | 17m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Mrs. Macquarie's Chair Soft Landings | |||||
V0 - 1 | Smooth Gliding
Start with hands on the top rock and glide all the way to around the corner. PA: Upton, 23 Ag 2021 | 4m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Mrs. Macquarie's Chair Hello Sailors! | |||||
V0+ | ★ Navy Blue
Start at the obvious break to the right of the overhang. Keeping your hands high and your feet moving, traverse to your left. Rounding the nose make your way to the next obvious break and perform a mantle. PA: | 6m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Mrs. Macquarie's Chair Vision Splendid Wall | |||||
V0 - 1 | The Tourist
Start at the side pull and large (very) sandy pocket then out to the large pinch left, to the large jug right then up. Weird top out. | 2m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Queens Park Left Hand Side | |||||
V0+ | ★ Daisy
Climb the arete on the right finishing at the rooflet | 3m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Queens Park The Road Cut | |||||
V0+ | ★★ Sidepull Salad
Stand start on the obvious jug halfway up the wall. Go left through some sidepull jugs and match on another sidepull 3/4ᵗʰs of the way up the wall to finish. Equip: Tom New, 10 Sep 2023 PA: Nanami Kato, 10 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Vaucluse Rosa Gully Rosa Gully North Side | |||||
17 | Karen's Climb
Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary. The first pitch has been retrobolted as Part of the Last wave
Mikl Law 1970's PA: Michael Law, 1979 | 75m, 3 | |||
Eastern Suburbs Vaucluse Rosa Gully Rosa Gully south side | |||||
17 | ★★★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - Rosa to Ron's
Sea Level Traverse - Rosa To Ron’s (2km, Grade 17?) This section is arguably the most classic moderate adventure route in NSW. A great day out requiring great, but not perfect swell conditions. From the North: - Cross the gap between Rosa Gully and Diamond Bay, one slippery section, nothing too tricky if the swell is low. - Traverse the slippery slot under the log of death (a couple of carrots), after walking through the cave on the other side, a small 6m rap is required to gain the lower ledge. - This lower ledge system will take you on a tour through time under bow wall crag. Mike laws artwork can be seen winding its way up the blankest, chosseist sections of rock. Crux 5 - This ledge system finishes under prowess. Either use the bolts here to gain the ledge then rap back down off one to the other side. Alternatively, whip out the trad gear and easily traverse this bit (provided its not soaked by the waves). - The simple walking tour continues from here past three cathedral like cave systems, some slippery traversing required but nothing too hard. - After about 300m, you’ll arrive under sanctum main buttress, and the bulk of the climbing in front of you Crux 4 - Scramble around the back of the sea cave and climb the little head wall on the far side. Traversing the ledge 5m up is much easier than saying low. - from here you have a couple options, either blast up the easy looking corner crack (grade 16 with a very hard grassy topout) or go south a couple more meters and rap down (needs bolts) to sea level again to wrap around to the south end of the big buttress you’re on. The crack on this far side looks much nicer to climb. A third option is to sidle around to the front of this buttress via a sandy ledge about 4-5m above the ledge you're on. its a bit heady on shit gear but the fastest way past this buttress. - Both options land you on a big ledge system. Traverse south about 15m and either rap 6m down to the lower ledge or climb 2m up to the higher option. This higher option needs bolts for a big 30m rap about 100m south, wereas the lower option can be abseiled with a 25m rope off an old fishermans spike. - Now that these paths have reconvened, scramble south for another 80m along a skinny ledge, building a belay off the old fisherman spike. It’s probably worth doing a micro 5m long pitch here and building a much better belay off the stainless spikes at the better ledge. - This next pitch goes at around grade 14 with bomber gear and great, balancy moves. Crux 3 - Another 100m of easy walking gets you to the last crux of this section of the traverse, buruwang main wall. - Theres a couple options here, either climb any of the routes that will get you up to the higher ledge (easiest is probably: Just one more bump, 12m, a pretty committing grade 22 mixed route), or… in the spirit of seacliff traversing, don’t go up, go sideways. This traversing pitch isn’t too hard, but is very pumpy, probably around grade 19, resting on gear makes it a lot easier, but it will give you a cardio workout nonetheless. - once you’re past buruwang main wall, its all easy walking and scrambling all the way to the mattings descent (huge fixed ropes). Exiting here makes for a great day out and a fairly easy 25min walk back to the diamond bay. From the South: Reverse the above beta PA: Jul 2021 | 2000m, 10 | |||
17 X | Seaside Suicide
A suicidal route with almost every hold guaranteed to break on you. On the bright side every ascent is unique! First 2 bolts as for Devils Sandpit, clip the 3rd bolt of TRAAF continue right and up the proud arete that looks great but climbs terribly, on holds that crumble beneath your fingers and toes (clip next bolt and ignore bolt on right of arete, going straight up instead). Alternatively, traverse in from the walk-in ledge on the right, clipping the bolt on right of arete and going up. PA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 21 Feb 2016 | ||||
Eastern Suburbs The Mattings | |||||
17 | ★ Reason
Overall actually a really decent climb… if it were on bolts, theres about 2-3 good pieces on the whole route, all of them in the first few meters, this wasn’t discovered by the first ascensionist until he was meters from the top on some pretty average rock. | 27m | |||
17 | ★★ Cornered Without Reason
FA: Surely some ballsy 15 yr/old in the 50’s soloed this Linking up the best bits of cornered and reason, Quite a quality line, a great top rope number. Please avoid retro bolting the last few meters as the gear is bomber and it would be a shame to turn this historic area into a grid bolted gym. | 25m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Clovelly | |||||
17 | Dusty Condom
| 17m | |||
17 | ★ Moist crack
Up the right corner above the seepage. Sandy natural anchors. Toprope by slinging off rock features on top. | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Orange Slab 4
Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak. | 6m | |||
17 | Orange Slab 3
Start in the hole and continue up the left side of the streak. | 6m | |||
17 | ★ Orange Slab 1
First line after the arete on the left. Blast up to the break if you're tall or move delicately up the slab. | 6m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Gordons Bay | |||||
{UK} V0 - 1 | ★★ Follow The Slanty Brick Road
Traverse from right to left without using the top edge. start 6m left of the crab puddle PA: Keith Davison, 21 Dic 2016 | 25m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Gordons Bay The Rocket Area | |||||
V0+ | The Rocket
Sit start | 3m | |||
V0+ | Bayside Traverse
A natural traverse from the ironstone slab following the rock right toward "The Rocket". No using the boulder behind. PA: Hadley Wood, 21 Ag 2014 | 3m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Maroubra Bra Blocks | |||||
V0+ | ★ Braai
Drill hole right of Gebr Alexander. PA: Graham Dowden, 30 Abr 2017 | 3m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Malabar | |||||
V0+ | Layback slab
Trad-like corner | 4m | |||
V0+ | Unslab
Where the legs ends, up the obvious crack. No stars! PA: Patrick Burr | 4m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Little Bay Cape Banks | |||||
V0+ | ★ NAB
PA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 En 2017 | 3m | |||
North Shore Twin Creeks | |||||
V0+ | 6
PA: Jack Folkes, 14 Mayo 2015 | 3m | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks Stag Wall | |||||
17 R | Vege Tale Varient
Softer start to "Vege Tale" | 8m | |||
17 R | Vege Tale
Up corner of block to ledge, then up big pockets/edges to top out. Poor/no pro past block. PA: Sam Small | 8m | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks Abseil Wall/Main Wall | |||||
17 | ★ DTER
Start at initials. Up slight overhang to ledge, then trend left and exit up runnel past old chopped Terrier (threaded sleeve) and later expansion bolt at the top. | 10m | |||
17 | ★ The Snake Next Door
Start as for DWTS and veer right at head wall for a direct finish. | 12m | |||
17 | The White Wabbit of W'oonga
Start: 3m right of Osso Buffo. Pockets to small cam break, slab to medium break, then the fabled W'oonga topout - slopes and grit! The real white wabbit lives on the cliff top further to the right, but you may need to pull one out of the hat to trad this lead out! | 12m | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks Twin Aretes Area | |||||
17 | ★★ HD
Fun steep climbing. 0.5 cam to protect the start and a no.2 before the carrot bolts. There is an old bent gal carrot and a horribly rusty one a bit further up. | 10m, 2 | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks South West Wall | |||||
17 | Right Side Runnel
Burly move out right and gaining stance, then easy climbing to the top. | 8m | |||
17 | ★★ Cool Running | 10m, 2 | |||
North Shore Wahroonga Browns Road TCFTH Area | |||||
17 | ★★ Tuff Cs Fall The Hardest
#Dangerous. This climb has a giant loose block above the bolts that appears to be balanced on a small chockstone. If you pull on it or snag the corner with a rope it may rip out. You have been warned. Right end off wall. Up crack to slab passing 2 BRs, horizontal break and up to top. DBB on top. PA: A.Batey, 2014 | 16m, 2 | |||
North Shore Wahroonga Browns Road Lower cliff | |||||
17 | ★★ Sloper Sally
Notice from route setters Please do not climb this route until further notice. The starting holds are on a large flake; if this route sees a lot of traffic, the flake might break, making this climb several grades harder. Also, temporary bolts were used to set the route, which need to be replaced with glue-ins. Please be patient and help us conserve the crag so it can be enjoyed by people in the future. Description Up the slab to the right of Trolls Arete. Thin balance moves past bolt to a sloper layback top out. Left arête is off. Equip: A. Batey & Chris Sharples PAL: Sam Small, 1 Abr 2017 | 8m, 1 | |||
North Shore Wahroonga Browns Road YKS Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Old men on ibuprofen
Flake 1m left of Young Kids on Speed. Clip carrots on YKoS, dirty topout or lower off. PA: Mikl Law | 8m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ S
Right of walk through chimney, Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it. | 10m | |||
North Shore Wahroonga Browns Road Courtyard Area | |||||
17 | ★ JR
Up slab right of SS. Another of those thin slab lines that are the style of this area. now a mixed route. Small cam in pocket low down. PAL: Sam Small, 1 Abr 2017 | 10m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Fingers & Fists
Thin finger crack to start leading to offwidth. Only requires 2 offwidth moves to top out. Take your big cam on this one. | 10m | |||
17 | ★ CB
Hand crack to start up, on to block step right then finish up offwidth. | 10m | |||
North Shore East Killara God's Country The New God's Country Four Tiered Boulder | |||||
V0+ | ★ Right Of Resurrection
Start on the right hand corner and tend left as you send. | 3m | |||
North Shore East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier The Last Highball | |||||
17 | ★ Goliath And His Spotter
Middle line of bolts. Shared lower offs with TBGF Equip: Brendon Flanagan, 2013 PA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013 | 8m, 6 | |||
North Shore East Killara The Promised Land Middle Tier The Raising Of The Highball | |||||
V0+ | ★ The Archbishop Of Bouldering
An easy and fun sit start for the beginner. Start as low as you can with your right toes placed so low in the vertical hollow that it's almost touching the ground. Make your way up exiting at the left hand water mark. Equip: Brendon Flanagan, 2013 PA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013 | 4m | |||
North Shore Lindfield Rocks She-Oak Wall | |||||
V0/0+ | ★ 7 - Diagonal Cracks
As the name suggests, the diagonal crack system leading out of the start of 'She-Oak Crack'. | 6m | |||
North Shore West Roseville | |||||
17 | ★★★ Cats Underpants
Up the face beside a right facing flared corner crack. Move left around the arete and up face passing one questionable ring bolt in the process.Top rope off a tree back from the edge, careful not to get your rope wedged in the crack as it widens near the top. PA: Munch, 1994 | 7m, 1 | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve The Eastern Outpost | |||||
17 | Not living on bread alone
The left side of the corner about 5m r of LO. For the full experience (20) start seated directly below the first bolt of LO on a sloping edge. Move up then all the way along the break rightwards before heading up. PA: dwebster, Feb 2016 | 6m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve The Lookout | |||||
17 | ★ Crispy Thin Thing
Up edge of orange cave on very thin things. | 5m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Brendons Blackboard Is Covered In Chalk | |||||
V0+ | ★ Whales Make Rude Dinner Guests
Start 1 meter right of SFC. Using the two deep scoops to start, head up and tend right to top out above the right hand scoop. PA: Ewa Siedlecka, 2014 | 3m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Ranger Daves School Yard For The Gifted Climber | |||||
17 | ★ Snoz Saddler
Start beneath first bolt heading straight up to right side of small cave. Straddle the nose with feet either side of it. NOTE: Once third draw is clipped recommend unclipping second draw to avoid rope drag over sharp edge. Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper. PA: Ranger Dave, 2013 | 8m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | |||||
17 | ★ Like Christmas Morning
Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab. PA: Daniel Webster, 30 Nov 2014 | 8m | |||
North Shore The Spit Castle Rock Beach Oyster inlet | |||||
17 | ★ Hook and beachedwhale
The overhanging rock on the far left side of the inlet (facing into the shore) just before landings start getting dicey | 5m | |||
North Shore The Spit Pearl Bay Pearl Bay Climbing | |||||
17 | ★ Rumpole
Juggy wall (2 BRs). PA: Julian McGee, Alex McGee & Early 1990s | 9m | |||
North Shore Kurraba Point Harbour Side Slabs The Steel Cap Slabs | |||||
V0+ | ★ Butter Menthol Thief
A fun line doing a balancy traverse from 'WMCS' this all the way to 'UBB'. Nice moves on the face.
Equip: Scott Bishop & Ryan L | 7m | |||
V0+ | ★ White Man Can't Slab
Good holds and footers at the start while becoming more committing the higher you send.
Equip: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | 5m | |||
North Shore Blues Point Life Aquatic Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Ranger Dave Saves The Day
Carrots now in place for top roping. Safety line required to set up anchor. Perform a mantle between DDD and DS. Head left through the forest and hope that Ranger Dave is there to save the day if you can't commit to the crux. PA: | 11m | |||
Northern Beaches Cerrado North Head Main Area | |||||
17 | Nastrand
| 50m | |||
17 | Temporary Like Achilles
| 45m | |||
Northern Beaches Cerrado North Head Western End | |||||
17 | Newtown Night's Transfiguration
As for DD then round arete to steep hand crack. | 15m | |||
17 | Blood and Seamen
Starts from narrowest point of DAA ledge. To base of yellow and brown corner (suitably metaphorical colours? - Ed). Up corner to then around roof. | 15m | |||
17 | Scylla
Traverse 5m as for DoD then up groove. Seems to still be there. | 20m | |||
Northern Beaches Shelly Beach Headland | |||||
V0+ | ★★ Left Pods
Stand start on left arete with good slots. | 2m | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Slabs | |||||
17 | ★★★ Stupid Valley
Nice wandering face around seam, direct start possible but not nice. PA: Jeffrey Crass | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Burnt Out
Starts 6 m L of Wimples. Mantle to ledge with gnarly gum, past vegetation to short hand crack. Careful to protect the mantle. PA: Jyah S & Declan Everett-Morgan, Jun 2019 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Mental as Anything
Climb the thin seam using the bolts on Ag Science for protection. Traverse easily right and lower off the DRB’s of Technical Short Talk, or finish left as for AS PA: Michael Combley & James Carpenter, 2012 | 12m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ S.I.A.N.
As this climb is a rising traverse crossing most of the routes on the main slab it is best attempted on quiet days! Climb Into The Void to bolt 2, then right 10m to bolt 3 on Kicks, up Kicks and lower off. During the lower off unclip last quick draw on Kicks to make life much more pleasant for the second(!) PA: Michael Combley & Kate Baecher, 2013 | 25m, 6 | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side | |||||
17 | Jammin' Measles
The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start. | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Turbulent Pleasure
Fun wall, start as for Airtime Traverse and straight up PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018 | 12m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Flack
Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled. PA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Yawning Yowie
STart in small orange groove 6m L of Ready Set Go, 15m L of Flack, and 30m L of where the track hits the cliff. Hard move to start then up arete. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018 | 10m, 4 | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Heist Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Broject
Corner on left of wall, Start up Room With a View, step left and clip 3rd bolt on The Heist, step left to corner and up. PA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018 | 10m, 7 | |||
17 | ★★ Room With A View | 10m, 7 | |||
Northern Beaches Elanora Heights Feather Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Wire Parrots
Link the start of Bird on a wire for 2 bolts, into the finish of Parrots of the Caribbean. PA: Adrian, 2018 | 19m, 9 | |||
17 | ★★ Feathers | 18m, 8 | |||
17 | ★ A Turkey Named Trevor
Up crack to ledge, then up easy jugfest to small overhang jugs. PA: Magdalena de la Torre, 2018 | 19m, 8 | |||
Northern Beaches Whale Beach | |||||
17 | Anorak Man
| 7m | |||
17 | Double Release
| 20m | |||
17 | Crimson Streams
| 15m | |||
17 | East Ridge
| 18m | |||
Northern Beaches Palm Beach Boulders | |||||
V0+ | ★ The North Face
Fun crimpy face on ironstone edges. Start: North face of the north boulder | 4m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ The Flake
Up to the flake and layback which makes up the left side of the window. Start: Left side of east face of north boulder | 4m | |||
Northern Beaches Barrenjoey North Palm Beach | |||||
17 | Same Reality
Up wall 2m left of chimney to BR, then with more difficulty to overhanging blocks. 4 BRs in all to DBB. | 15m | |||
17 | Shrubberies
"Quite steep". Pass two breaks and walk 5m left to bollard. Start: Orange wall below large overhanging off-width left of 'Oggindeli'. PA: Craig B. Martin & R. Chick, 1984 | 17m | |||
17 | Thirteen Hex
Strenuous. Cam anchors. Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'. PA: Ian Strut, R. Chick & I. Strut, 1984 | 13m | |||
Northern Beaches Barrenjoey Southwest | |||||
17 | ★ Ikon
As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up. PA: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 10m |